Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[xetal]

Pretty much an outsider but :

Eco 300W, 25%
Mid 300W, 75%
High 300W, 150%

This gives me a more natural feel and better battery.

1000-1200 meters from 100% to 10-20% in mixed modes but mostly "Mid" 215 pounds rider.

 

[Whitehurst]

Hi.

Eco: 99W, 86%
Mid: 180W, 113%
High: 250W, 156%

I've set the high power to a max of 250w to keep the power delivery consistent in High. DIdn't enjoy the drop in power from 300w peak power to 250 in the middle of a steep climb.

Interested in trying XETAL's approach of keeping the max power consistent and varying the assist %.

 

[xetal]

Hi.

Eco: 99W, 86%
Mid: 180W, 113%
High: 250W, 156%

I've set the high power to a max of 250w to keep the power delivery consistent in High. DIdn't enjoy the drop in power from 300w peak power to 250 in the middle of a steep climb.

Interested in trying XETAL's approach of keeping the max power consistent and varying the assist %.

Works super well here. Feels more natural and balanced. I hated feeling the power on/off in some situations.

 

[Plutohora]

How do I know if my EXE is self draining quicker than it should? The hours versus mileage has always been out of cock. Theres no way I've done that mileage to those hours ..... I always shut the bike off straight at the end of the ride too. I've noticed my battery doesn't seem to last as long now too. Its 14months old.

 

[Mteam]

How do I know if my EXE is self draining quicker than it should? The hours versus mileage has always been out of cock. Theres no way I've done that mileage to those hours ..... I always shut the bike off straight at the end of the ride too. I've noticed my battery doesn't seem to last as long now too. Its 14months old.

View attachment 168054

I think the hour counter also counts hours the bike was charging, not solely the hours spent riding.

If you have the latest version of the firmware you can see in the app the current battery capacity and compare to the specifications listed in the battery user manual , the rated capacity of the battery is listed as 6.24ah in the manual . One of my batteries say it has 6.3ah capacity, the other that is more worn says 6.1ah capacity.

 

[Sonars]

Hey all, I have a beloved Fuel EXE 9.8. I've had the bike for about 2 years, it has about 2500 miles on it of all trail riding. I recently had a pretty severe creak/clicking sound coming from my headset. when I went in to clean it i noticed a chunk of the lower bearing race had broken away leaving a bit of the bearing unsupported. I worked thru a local dealer on a warranty claim and trek has agreed to replace my frame. Here's the catch... They no longer have any Gen 1 frames available. So, they have offered a Gen 2 Fuel+ frame. On this, they will provide all the necessary hardware to rebuild my EX-e on the Fuel+ frame. I'd love to get the HPR60 and the larger battery, I'd even pay for them, but that is not part of the deal. What should I be concerned about, if anything? Underpowered, loss of range, weight? I'd be gratefull for input before the new frame comes in next week.

 

[xetal]

Hey all, I have a beloved Fuel EXE 9.8. I've had the bike for about 2 years, it has about 2500 miles on it of all trail riding. I recently had a pretty severe creak/clicking sound coming from my headset. when I went in to clean it i noticed a chunk of the lower bearing race had broken away leaving a bit of the bearing unsupported. I worked thru a local dealer on a warranty claim and trek has agreed to replace my frame. Here's the catch... They no longer have any Gen 1 frames available. So, they have offered a Gen 2 Fuel+ frame. On this, they will provide all the necessary hardware to rebuild my EX-e on the Fuel+ frame. I'd love to get the HPR60 and the larger battery, I'd even pay for them, but that is not part of the deal. What should I be concerned about, if anything? Underpowered, loss of range, weight? I'd be gratefull for input before the new frame comes in next week.

This means porting your HPR50 / screen and battery in the fuel+ replacement frameset ? Tough one indeed. I think i would. If any fitment issues arise with the battery bounce back and ask them to replace it no charge.

 

[robby]

Hey all, I have a beloved Fuel EXE 9.8. I've had the bike for about 2 years, it has about 2500 miles on it of all trail riding. I recently had a pretty severe creak/clicking sound coming from my headset. when I went in to clean it i noticed a chunk of the lower bearing race had broken away leaving a bit of the bearing unsupported. I worked thru a local dealer on a warranty claim and trek has agreed to replace my frame. Here's the catch... They no longer have any Gen 1 frames available. So, they have offered a Gen 2 Fuel+ frame. On this, they will provide all the necessary hardware to rebuild my EX-e on the Fuel+ frame. I'd love to get the HPR60 and the larger battery, I'd even pay for them, but that is not part of the deal. What should I be concerned about, if anything? Underpowered, loss of range, weight? I'd be gratefull for input before the new frame comes in next week.

Total no-brainer IMO. The HPR60 is backwards compatible with all of those original components, and the gen2 frame gives you the option for the bigger battery later if you ever want to upgrade it. The Gen2 frame probably makes an HPR60 upgrade later easier as well (though I suspect that only makes fiscal sense if you have to replace the motor out of pocket anyway).

I love my EXe and have no reason to upgrade to the gen2 -- but if I could snap my fingers and turn the frame into a gen2, I would do it without reservation.

 

[Jack of All Trails]

So, i've had this bike for 3 years. It's been overall great. I've had 2 motor changes and a battery replaced, but all under warranty and Trek have been great with that. As you can see I look after it, but the creaking, actually more clicking (rapid) when going over certain features is crazy. Rock gardens especailly clicking sound from the BB area. Also drop offs and sharp compressions. It's ok landing from most jumps, like gaps etc. I have changed the bearings, torqued, made changes to the adjustment screws/bolts of the motor, made sure the lock is at 50nm, done all the things I have found online to fix it, but it always is an issue. Peddling underload ect fine, but rock gardens etc, crazy. I know it's not chain slap or the seat post, pedals or headtube. Any tips or experience you've had would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jaumebtt]

So, i've had this bike for 3 years. It's been overall great. I've had 2 motor changes and a battery replaced, but all under warranty and Trek have been great with that. As you can see I look after it, but the creaking, actually more clicking (rapid) when going over certain features is crazy. Rock gardens especailly clicking sound from the BB area. Also drop offs and sharp compressions. It's ok landing from most jumps, like gaps etc. I have changed the bearings, torqued, made changes to the adjustment screws/bolts of the motor, made sure the lock is at 50nm, done all the things I have found online to fix it, but it always is an issue. Peddling underload ect fine, but rock gardens etc, crazy. I know it's not chain slap or the seat post, pedals or headtube. Any tips or experience you've had would be greatly appreciated.View attachment 169369

Hello! I solved a noise from the ABP, disassembled and reassembled it with its grease, it was doing it when landing and stopped, just to try.

 

[IanP]

So, i've had this bike for 3 years. It's been overall great. I've had 2 motor changes and a battery replaced, but all under warranty and Trek have been great with that. As you can see I look after it, but the creaking, actually more clicking (rapid) when going over certain features is crazy. Rock gardens especailly clicking sound from the BB area. Also drop offs and sharp compressions. It's ok landing from most jumps, like gaps etc. I have changed the bearings, torqued, made changes to the adjustment screws/bolts of the motor, made sure the lock is at 50nm, done all the things I have found online to fix it, but it always is an issue. Peddling underload ect fine, but rock gardens etc, crazy. I know it's not chain slap or the seat post, pedals or headtube. Any tips or experience you've had would be greatly appreciated.View attachment 169369

I'm wondering about the lower shock bolt. It sounds a bit like small displacement rattle that could be that. Are you running the original bolt that has threads in shear through the carbon on one side>

 

[Johannes]

Same on my bike. That's why I mounted a bolt from Pinner on Whistler. Fits perfectly

 

[1234]

Same on my bike. That's why I mounted a bolt from Pinner on Whistler. Fits perfectly

Budget alternative is to wrap the bolt threads in teflon tape to get a tighter fit. Cut the noise from mine seems to hold up.

 

[Barman1]

Same on my bike. That's why I mounted a bolt from Pinner on Whistler. Fits perfectly

I've noticed this on mine as well on some root sections, didn't think a lot about it but now that I read all this it's going to bug me...
Pinner is sold out so I submitted a "let me know when available", and if a few others do the same it might urge them to fire up the lathe.

 

[Jack of All Trails]

I'm wondering about the lower shock bolt. It sounds a bit like small displacement rattle that could be that. Are you running the original bolt that has threads in shear through the carbon on one side>

Yes, I am running that bolt. I had not heard of this being the noise issue before but it seems like it's common. thanks for raising it, gives me a new angle to investigate

 

[Jack of All Trails]

Budget alternative is to wrap the bolt threads in teflon tape to get a tighter fit. Cut the noise from mine seems to hold up.

great idea, will give that a go, how much tape did you use, and was it all the way along the bolt? like to give this a try before trying to get custom bolt, so if you have any more details that would be amazing with thanks

 

[Jack of All Trails]

I've noticed this on mine as well on some root sections, didn't think a lot about it but now that I read all this it's going to bug me...
Pinner is sold out so I submitted a "let me know when available", and if a few others do the same it might urge them to fire up the lathe.

I also found this which dives into it a bit more, seems like a common issue...https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/trek-fuel-exe-megathread.29784/post-556361

 

[Jack of All Trails]

I posted this on the Trek Fuel EXE owners group on FB but thought you guys might find it useful too.
Some of the information has already been mentioned by members here, but I've just collated it and put some more insight into it from my findings.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Trek Fuel Lower Pivot Bolt Play Solution

Legends,
– Short version –
The issue of lower shock mount play is solved with a custom pivot bolt. Check the bottom of this post if you’re interested in obtaining one. Otherwise to gain more insight, read the long version.

– Long version –
As you may have experienced first hand or read about it here or on forum, Trek Fuel EXE owners have reported play in the lower pivot bolt. By play, I mean vertical movement between the shock bolt and hardware.

How to check if your bike has this issue:
Loosen your lower pivot bolt. Put one hand on the seat tube below the seat collar and another on the rear triangle holding it down. Pull up with the seat tube hand and you’ll hear a clicking coming from the lower shock mount. You can pull on the seat tube with your other hand under the lower shock mount and you’ll feel the movement. Repeat this at 10NM, 13NM and 15NM.
10 and 13 you should still feel the movement, and 15 is about where the horizontal force is greater than the weight of the bike so you won’t feel it.

What is actually causing this?:
There is a very small gap between the bolt and shock hardware (regardless of Fox, Rockshox etc).
The cause of this is that Trek decided to use a generic off the shelf M8x60 threaded bolt. You can get these for as low as $2. Turns out that all off the shelf M8x60 bolts have a diameter of 7.85mm. This is an industry standard. Surely this would be a common issue for many bikes then? No it isn’t because the majority have their pivot bolts custom made. For example both shock bolts on a Canyon Torque measured at 7.97mm. All shock hardware measures in at about 7.99mm.

Trek’s Recommendation:
Trek issued a bulletin regarding this (it was directed only at Fox shocks but it applies to all kinds of shocks). Their solution was to replace the hardware and tighten the bolt to 15NM. The torque rating used to be lower in the original Trek manual.
Essentially it’s a bandaid fix because tightening the bolt more will apply more horizontal force to clamp the hardware tighter to the frame. Which means when your bike is static, you won’t feel the play because the horizontal force is greater than the force you apply when wiggling the seat tube. It will appear to have no play but in reality, it will still move under big compressions and decompressions when riding. If you forcefully push and pull the seat tube then you will feel the play still there. This can also lead to extra stress and wear on the frame that over time, you’ll have to tighten it a bit more and more.
The recommendation of replacing the hardware and even supplying a new shock bolt will have zero effect as you’ll still end up with ~0.14mm gap. You may get lucky and get an out of tolerance bolt that is thicker, but there is another problem with this off the shelf bolt.
I’ve advised Trek APAC Support of my findings regarding the bolt and I’ve either been given a generic response of “replace your hardware” (even though in my email I wrote that I did) or just been ignored.

Bonus problem with the Trek supplied bolt:
This is the part that really gives me the sh*ts. The off the shelf bolt that comes with the bike has an excessive thread length. Rather than just being the length of the little nut that sits on the side of the frame (around 8mm), it's almost half the length of the bolt at ~30mm.
This means that about half of your shock hardware will be rotating on thread splines rather than a smooth bolt surface. This will cause your shock hardware to wear out quicker. Which means you’ll have even more play.
Some engineer, well actually multiple people at Trek, would’ve looked at this design spec and said ‘Yes, this is acceptable for a $5000+ bike … lets spend $2 on half assed choice rather than $20-30 on the optimal choice’.

How this problem is solved:
Firstly, full credit goes to @Jazzii . He posted his findings on the EMTB Forum and I used that as a basis.
The fix is that you need an M8x60 bolt with a 1.25 thread of ~10mm, shaft diameter of 7.99mm and head diameter of 13mm.
The way to achieve this is to get an M10x80 bolt machined down to this spec.
As simple as this sounds, it took quite a bit of asking many local places and prototype trial and error. Some things I learned:

• Most shops don’t want to deal in quantities of just one.
• If they deal in one, the cost usually is pretty high $100-$150.
• Not all machinery can deal with such a small bolt.
• Getting to exact 7.99mm accuracy evenly can be tough.

After two failed prototypes, through the MTB community I was referred to someone that was able to prototype one for me successfully.

How you can get one:
I’m putting out an expression of interest for these to owners like yourselves.
Ideally I would order in bulk as it’s easier for the machinist and will take a few bucks off the bolt.
The price of the bolt will be AUD $50 posted anywhere in Australia.
NZ I can probably post to you guys.
If there is high interest in Europe and the US then I can try to get postage quotes for you also.
I’m not looking to make a profit on this. Just to cover the manufacturing cost, postage and recoup costs in two failed prototypes at other machinists.
It’s made from stainless steel. Due to it originally being an M10 head, the head will protrude about 1-2mm from the frame which is negligible as the rear triangle behind it protrudes way more. Black anodizing and head length machining will only add to the cost and add no functional value.
Attached are photos of the bolt, and two videos (EMTB didn't allow videos so check my post on FB). The videos are of each bolt, demonstrating the movement and sound when the bolt is loose and when it is hand tightened. (see ‘How to check if your bike has this issue’ above to do this yourself)

I’ve also attached a design drawing that you can provide to a machinist if you wish to have this manufactured yourself.
Let me know if you’re interested in purchasing one so I can gauge numbers and put an order in the next few weeks.
If there’s any questions, then feel free to ask.

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What a great post, having this issue now with my exe and I live in australia. I see this post is older, are you still able to access the correct bolt? If so I'd be keen to purchase.

 

[1234]

great idea, will give that a go, how much tape did you use, and was it all the way along the bolt? like to give this a try before trying to get custom bolt, so if you have any more details that would be amazing with thanks

Can't remember exactly how much I put on, I just made sure to put it on in away that it was a consistent diameter after it was wrapped so it had a bit more on the threads than the shaft. I put enough on that it had a reasonably firm fit and that stopped any movement I was getting from that area. I didn't put it on the threads right at the end where it engages though, just in the area where the shock bushing contacts.

Can't complain for $2, easy enough to redo if you don't get it 100% on the first try.

 

[Jack of All Trails]

Can't remember exactly how much I put on, I just made sure to put it on in away that it was a consistent diameter after it was wrapped so it had a bit more on the threads than the shaft. I put enough on that it had a reasonably firm fit and that stopped any movement I was getting from that area. I didn't put it on the threads right at the end where it engages though, just in the area where the shock bushing contacts.

Can't complain for $2, easy enough to redo if you don't get it 100% on the first try.

Awesome, thank you. I will give it a try, it's been bothering me for ages but now feeling more optimistic

 

[1234]

Awesome, thank you. I will give it a try, it's been bothering me for ages but now feeling more optimistic

Also worth noting the fitment on my Float X bushing was worse than the fitment on the Super Deluxe that came with it. Super deluxe didn't have any play and the Float X did. Mostly treks fault for using an off the shelf bolt rather than actual shock hardware though.

 

[tdeater]

So, i've had this bike for 3 years. It's been overall great. I've had 2 motor changes and a battery replaced, but all under warranty and Trek have been great with that. As you can see I look after it, but the creaking, actually more clicking (rapid) when going over certain features is crazy. Rock gardens especailly clicking sound from the BB area. Also drop offs and sharp compressions. It's ok landing from most jumps, like gaps etc. I have changed the bearings, torqued, made changes to the adjustment screws/bolts of the motor, made sure the lock is at 50nm, done all the things I have found online to fix it, but it always is an issue. Peddling underload ect fine, but rock gardens etc, crazy. I know it's not chain slap or the seat post, pedals or headtube. Any tips or experience you've had would be greatly appreciated.

I had a click/rattle that I couldn't track down. Finally realized that the tool for removing the rear axle was somewhat loose, so I put a little grease inside the bolt head and that seems to have quieted it down.

 

[Mteam]

I had a click/rattle that I couldn't track down. Finally realized that the tool for removing the rear axle was somewhat loose, so I put a little grease inside the bolt head and that seems to have quieted it down.

Yeah, that tool does rattle. I removed mine because of this.

 

[Jack of All Trails]

I had a click/rattle that I couldn't track down. Finally realized that the tool for removing the rear axle was somewhat loose, so I put a little grease inside the bolt head and that seems to have quieted it down.

Thanks, good idea will also give that a try.

 

[BobMtnBkr]

I'm still running OEM spec'ed XT 8100 drive line components on my '23 XT 9.8 EXE and finding I'm burning through cassettes quickly. Do not ride in mud. Chains replaced routinely. Scalloping out small to mid steel cogs only. Any compatible stronger cassettes out there? Going from hyperglide to linkglide requires swapping entire transmission, right?

 

[konamac]

I'm still running OEM spec'ed XT 8100 drive line components on my '23 XT 9.8 EXE and finding I'm burning through cassettes quickly. Do not ride in mud. Chains replaced routinely. Scalloping out small to mid steel cogs only. Any compatible stronger cassettes out there? Going from hyperglide to linkglide requires swapping entire transmission, right?

Hi

You do know you can source and replace the 5 smaller steel gears individually for Shimano XT cassettes? Massive cost saving over doing the whole cassette. You might want to look into chain waxing too, I'm still on my original cassette and rotate three chains, also original. About 5500km on the components so far. And yes Linkglide 11 speed is a full swap of chain, cassette, derailleur and shifter. Cheaper parts and very hard wearing I believe, but also heavier.

 

[BobMtnBkr]

Hi

You do know you can source and replace the 5 smaller steel gears individually for Shimano XT cassettes? Massive cost saving over doing the whole cassette. You might want to look into chain waxing too, I'm still on my original cassette and rotate three chains, also original. About 5500km on the components so far. And yes Linkglide 11 speed is a full swap of chain, cassette, derailleur and shifter. Cheaper parts and very hard wearing I believe, but also heavier.

Apparently my gear sweet spot for single track woods is right at the junction of the whole cassette and the removeable cogs. So I could replace the couple upper removeable cogs, but I'd still have the next 2-3 gears on the whole cassette scalloped.
I like a clean drivetrain, so I lube the chain with "rock -n-roll" extreme cleaner/lube. Maybe that's the issue? I scalloped 4-5 gears on a new XT cassette and the new XT chain is still within spec.
210 lb rider in tight woods on high power.

 

[konamac]

Apparently my gear sweet spot for single track woods is right at the junction of the whole cassette and the removeable cogs. So I could replace the couple upper removeable cogs, but I'd still have the next 2-3 gears on the whole cassette scalloped.
I like a clean drivetrain, so I lube the chain with "rock -n-roll" extreme cleaner/lube. Maybe that's the issue? I scalloped 4-5 gears on a new XT cassette and the new XT chain is still within spec.
210 lb rider in tight woods on high power.

Ok, that's a pain. I don't have experience with that lube / cleaner. How long do your chains last? It's strange the chains aren't wearing because extreme wear on teeth cassette teeth usually comes from stretched chain, and extremely worn teeth normally stretches chains really quickly. Maybe do some research in M Speed or Silca Wax, got nothing to loose at this point. I find doing 3 chains at a time in a hot pot to be way less work than degreasing a drive train regularly. Also stops you spraying caustic stuff at a machin with lots of bearings and electrickery!

 

[JP-NZ]

I'm still running OEM spec'ed XT 8100 drive line components on my '23 XT 9.8 EXE and finding I'm burning through cassettes quickly. Do not ride in mud. Chains replaced routinely. Scalloping out small to mid steel cogs only. Any compatible stronger cassettes out there? Going from hyperglide to linkglide requires swapping entire transmission, right?

How many Miles/Km for cassette? Ive done 3,400km/2,112 miles and my Casette is running fine. 240 pounds mostly ride in Tour+ and Eco though.

 

[njatherton]

How many Miles/Km for cassette? Ive done 3,400km/2,112 miles and my Casette is running fine. 240 pounds mostly ride in Tour+ and Eco though.

I had to change mine at 2000 miles as the ramps had worn on 10, 11 & 12 and shifting up on these gears became a problem