Reign E+ 2022

With Vivid Coil, you cannot adjust it because you have to put off the rebound knob (hit the frame).
I think SDCU rebound knob is shorter and can stay on the bike.
So do you have to remove the rebound knob to get the shock to fit in the frame?
 
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The rebound adjustment can be done by making a modified tool from an Allen key.
So do you have to remove the rebound knob to get the shock to fit in the frame, and then once the knob is removed and the shock is in place, can you cut down an Allen key and use that to adjust the rebound?
 
So do you have to remove the rebound knob to get the shock to fit in the frame?
Yes 👍
20250419_180758(1).jpg
 
sort of helpful alternative, but after ANOTHER X2 shat itself, I went instead with a Bomber CR from J-Tech, they set it all up for me, installed it easily and it rides bloody superbly (and should I need, can access damper settings)
 
I tried a 205x65 suntour voro coil and it made contact with frame from the shock bottom retaining clip, slightly when full travel was reached and I removed it and put back the float x that came with bike
 
Thanks for the photo, yep that looks pretty tight, but looks soooo much better then the Float X. What kinda weight are you, I`m about 70kg and had a 500lb spring on my old ReignX2, The Reign E+ is obviously a fair bit heavier so not sure what spring to go for?
Keep your 500lbs
I am 85kg and 550lbs was perfect 👌
 
sort of helpful alternative, but after ANOTHER X2 shat itself, I went instead with a Bomber CR from J-Tech, they set it all up for me, installed it easily and it rides bloody superbly (and should I need, can access damper settings)
I just looked it up, apparently its the same as the fox vanRC, which is what I had on my analogue reign!
 
Keep your 500lbs
I am 85kg and 550lbs was perfect 👌
So, I just ordered the RockShox Vivid Coil Ultimate RC2T and was wondering, does it slot straight in, or is there extra mounting hardware required? Also can the "RockShox Bearing Adapter Upgrade" be used in the reign frame?
Thanks in advance......
 
Hi all,

Unfortunately I need to replace the internal Bowden tube of the seatpost.
I can't pull the seatpost out of the frame even that I have removed the battery and try to push the Bowden tube from the bottom. The tube is going somewhere over the motor and is stucked.
Could the motor somehow lowered to have access to the cable routing? Do I need to remove the cranks etc?
 
Hi all,

Unfortunately I need to replace the internal Bowden tube of the seatpost.
I can't pull the seatpost out of the frame even that I have removed the battery and try to push the Bowden tube from the bottom. The tube is going somewhere over the motor and is stucked.
Could the motor somehow lowered to have access to the cable routing? Do I need to remove the cranks etc?
Yes, it's a bit of a nightmare routing the dropper cable over the motor as there's very little space in there with all the wiring that sits above the motor. I think that you will have to remove the cranks but if you can access the motor bolts at the front of the motor but leave one in at the rear you should be able to swing or pivot the motor down to gain access without removing the motor completely. Unfortunately there's no easy way to get the motor back in again, it just involves positioning the various cables as well as possible then using brute force to push or pivot the motor back into position so that you can get the other bolts back in. I work in a Giant dealers and we dread putting the motors back into any of the Giant ebikes because they're all like this (not just the Reign). Good luck.
 
Hi all,

Unfortunately I need to replace the internal Bowden tube of the seatpost.
I can't pull the seatpost out of the frame even that I have removed the battery and try to push the Bowden tube from the bottom. The tube is going somewhere over the motor and is stucked.
Could the motor somehow lowered to have access to the cable routing? Do I need to remove the cranks etc?
Not sure what you mean by 'bowden tube'? The seat post only usually gets stuck if it's seized, or the clamp is too tight or most likely if the cable is trapped. The cable does run over the top of the motor and into the frame (above the battery). You can remove the two rear motor bolts and swing the motor down to release the cable, but you'll have to remove the pedals, cranks and motor covers first. You can also try releasing the cable at the dropper lever first, to free up some cable and then try pulling the post out. I've changed my seat post and cable several times, it's a real PITA to get the cable over the motor and around the tight bend at the bottom of the seat tube! Good luck 👍
 
Not sure what you mean by 'bowden tube'? The seat post only usually gets stuck if it's seized, or the clamp is too tight or most likely if the cable is trapped. The cable does run over the top of the motor and into the frame (above the battery). You can remove the two rear motor bolts and swing the motor down to release the cable, but you'll have to remove the pedals, cranks and motor covers first. You can also try releasing the cable at the dropper lever first, to free up some cable and then try pulling the post out. I've changed my seat post and cable several times, it's a real PITA to get the cable over the motor and around the tight bend at the bottom of the seat tube! Good luck 👍
Bowden tube = (dropper) cable I think. They do tend to get trapped above the motor due to the lack of space there.
Bowden cable - Wikipedia
 
ah sorry.
Dropper post was the term that I couldn't remember, at least everyone understood that it was about the tube, not just the steel cable. I'm wondering, that i can push and pull the cable a litte bit forward and back while pushing and pulling the dropper post, but at a point it's getting stucked and a few centimeters are missing to fully remove the dropper post.

I'm wondering why this is so difficult. To install and remove the dropper post, or to adjust the height, it's essential that the Bowden cable can move freely.

I don't have the tools to remove the cranks and the chainring. I read that this is required to lower the motor? Therefore i will give it another try and use some lubricant on the tube, hopefully to first remove the dropper posta and replace the bowden tube.
 
ah sorry.
Dropper post was the term that I couldn't remember, at least everyone understood that it was about the tube, not just the steel cable. I'm wondering, that i can push and pull the cable a litte bit forward and back while pushing and pulling the dropper post, but at a point it's getting stucked and a few centimeters are missing to fully remove the dropper post.

I'm wondering why this is so difficult. To install and remove the dropper post, or to adjust the height, it's essential that the Bowden cable can move freely.
Yeah, it sounds like the cable is getting stuck where it runs over the top of the motor. This happened with my Reign E as well and I forced it which resulted in me having a damaged dropper cable. If the cable is completely stuck you'll have to drop the motor down. As we mentioned above, you can probably do this by leaving one motor mounting bolt in place and swinging/pivoting the motor down on the final remaining bolt. That part is pretty easy but it's difficult pushing the motor back into place afterwards.
Interestingly the newer Giant ebikes come with a narrower (outside) diameter dropper cable, presumably to help reduce the tendency for the dropper cable to get stuck like yours has.
 
Hey, luckily I was able to replace the dropper cable today. Above the motor it's just space for one Bowden tube. I've tried to tape the new one to the old one but both don't fit above the motor inside the frame. But with an old thin cable I was able to pull and push a new Bowden tube in the frame. Now it moves really easy while insert or remove the dropper post. Also the dropper post does it job as expected.
Thanks for all your help
 
Need some guidance please.

I've narrowed down my new bike search to two bikes, one being the Reign E+ 2023 model which is heavily discounted.

However they only have a medium left which is my normal size of bike for the last 20 years, but looking at the Giant sizing chart I'm at the "tall" end of small being 168cm but not quite tall enough for the medium. The dimensions are very similar my Nukeproof Mega 297 I just sold, with the exception of the Seat Tube and Standover which are quite a bit bigger.

I figure it could be ok given the cranks are 10mm shorter, plus the dropper collar on the Nukeproof sits 3 or 4cm out the frame. Both 170mm dropper I think.

Screenshot 2025-10-02 164747.png
 
Need some guidance please.

I've narrowed down my new bike search to two bikes, one being the Reign E+ 2023 model which is heavily discounted.

However they only have a medium left which is my normal size of bike for the last 20 years, but looking at the Giant sizing chart I'm at the "tall" end of small being 168cm but not quite tall enough for the medium. The dimensions are very similar my Nukeproof Mega 297 I just sold, with the exception of the Seat Tube and Standover which are quite a bit bigger.

I figure it could be ok given the cranks are 10mm shorter, plus the dropper collar on the Nukeproof sits 3 or 4cm out the frame. Both 170mm dropper I think.

View attachment 169006
It depends on how you feel with longer bikes. The current reign e+ isn't too long for today's standards, but as it is a non light e-bike it could feel a bit lazy if sizing up, when the bike doesn't have enough speed.

For your reference, I'm 170 and have a medium. At the beginning, as it was my first e-bike, I felt It was too much bike and was even considering to sell it and go for a smaller bike, but now I'm used to it and feel very comfortable with the bike. I don't regret at all keeping it. I just need to ride the bike in "attack mode", moving it with decision, and trying to keep speed all the time. When the bike has some speed, it corners incredibly well, and gives a huge confidence feeling. If you don't ride this in this way, I don't feel it's the bike.

There is a claim, that if you have big torso proportion, it is better to go with longer reach (my case), and if you got longer legs proportion, go smaller reach (size). I've tried it with a shorter stem (32 mm) to shorten the reach, but like it much better with the 40mm stock.

Hope this helps
 
I used to always ride smaller bikes for my height but in the last six or seven years I've totally embraced the whole long, low slack thing. I'm 6 feet tall and followed the Giant size guidance and went with a size large Reign E and pretty much from the first ride felt that the bike was too small for me. I ditched the standard stem for a super short 35mm reach version to speed up the steering on the bike (it steered like a canal barge on the standard stem compared to my analogue enduro bike) and that exacerbated the size issue. Fast forward a year or two and I had my frame replaced under warranty as it had suffered the cracking issue that has it's own thread on this forum. I asked if I could swap my large frame for an XL and Giant kindly allowed this. The XL feels way better and allows me to continue using my short stem without suffering from too short reach. My point is that the Giant sizing needs to be taken with a pinch of salt, I'd say their calculations are very conservative and I reckon sizing up is a good move. The stand over is still low but the difference in the steering if you swap the OEM stem for something shorter transforms the bike in my experience. It's always going to be a big, heavy, stable bike but the shorter stem really brings the bike to life. I think that's a long winded way of saying that I'd size up if you have any doubts.
 
I used to always ride smaller bikes for my height but in the last six or seven years I've totally embraced the whole long, low slack thing. I'm 6 feet tall and followed the Giant size guidance and went with a size large Reign E and pretty much from the first ride felt that the bike was too small for me. I ditched the standard stem for a super short 35mm reach version to speed up the steering on the bike (it steered like a canal barge on the standard stem compared to my analogue enduro bike) and that exacerbated the size issue. Fast forward a year or two and I had my frame replaced under warranty as it had suffered the cracking issue that has it's own thread on this forum. I asked if I could swap my large frame for an XL and Giant kindly allowed this. The XL feels way better and allows me to continue using my short stem without suffering from too short reach. My point is that the Giant sizing needs to be taken with a pinch of salt, I'd say their calculations are very conservative and I reckon sizing up is a good move. The stand over is still low but the difference in the steering if you swap the OEM stem for something shorter transforms the bike in my experience. It's always going to be a big, heavy, stable bike but the shorter stem really brings the bike to life. I think that's a long winded way of saying that I'd size up if you have any doubts.

How tall are you ?

The 50mm stem on the stock XL is indeed feeling slow at first, but you're quickly getting used to it. I was always afraid of making my reach too short if swapping for a 35 or 40mm stem.

I was evaluating moving from my OneUp 35mm rise bar to a Raceface 55mm rise bar to increase my leverage on the front end a bit, might also look after a 40mm stem if you're saying it's not too bad.
 
How tall are you ?

The 50mm stem on the stock XL is indeed feeling slow at first, but you're quickly getting used to it. I was always afraid of making my reach too short if swapping for a 35 or 40mm stem.

I was evaluating moving from my OneUp 35mm rise bar to a Raceface 55mm rise bar to increase my leverage on the front end a bit, might also look after a 40mm stem if you're saying it's not too bad.
I'm six feet tall. The shorter stem speeds up the steering a lot and was one of the best changes I've made to my bike. If you usually ride open, fast stuff then the standard stem will probably be fine but if you ride any tighter technical trails (or just prefer a more responsive bike) then swapping to a short stem is a great move.
On the subject of bars, I've been riding with 50mm rise Renthals for a while now and again find them to great. I had already gone up from the OEM bars to 37mm rise and decided to try 50mm just to see what it was like and they immediately felt like an improvement. I'd even contemplate going even higher again but there has to be a point when they're too high I suppose.
The three things that have improved my bike the most have been the short stem, the high bars and going with ultra short cranks (I tried 155mm cranks, liked them and am now down to 145mm). No regrets on any of these changes.
 
Interesting weights, we're all similar even if different sizes.

Do you guys still have your Reign E+ and plan on keeping it ? If not , what is going to replace it ?

I might replace mine for something lighter as I'm not doing long rides anymore and don't really care if I have a smaller battery to save weight. I'll get myself a portable power station and charge during lunch if I really need the extra range.

However I know deep down that I should just keep my Reign E+ :ROFLMAO:
 
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