Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

So I went for a proper ride on the hpr60.

First the good news, I can notice the additional 10nm of torque, its most noticable up steep hills, you can feel the motor providing more help at lower cadence.

Now the bad news, the efficiency seems exactly the same as the hpr50 motor, I got exactly the same amount of vertical climbing as I got with the hpr50. I have no idea how the reviews say they're getting 20-30% more, maybe things will improve with use, but I doubt it.

For the record, I swapped the broken hpr50 motor for the hpr60, everything else on the bike stayed the same, so same tyres, tyre pressure, suspension settings, batteries etc. The only thing that changed was the motor. Everything has the latest firmware, and I configured the different assist modes on the hpr60 exactly the same as I had them on the hpr50.

I'll report back if this changes over the next few rides, but it's not looking like a step change in efficiency.

So I went for a proper ride on the hpr60.

First the good news, I can notice the additional 10nm of torque, its most noticable up steep hills, you can feel the motor providing more help at lower cadence.

Now the bad news, the efficiency seems exactly the same as the hpr50 motor, I got exactly the same amount of vertical climbing as I got with the hpr50. I have no idea how the reviews say they're getting 20-30% more, maybe things will improve with use, but I doubt it.

For the record, I swapped the broken hpr50 motor for the hpr60, everything else on the bike stayed the same, so same tyres, tyre pressure, suspension settings, batteries etc. The only thing that changed was the motor. Everything has the latest firmware, and I configured the different assist modes on the hpr60 exactly the same as I had them on the hpr50.

I'll report back if this changes over the next few rides, but it's not looking like a step change in efficiency.
Excellent to get Objective feedback from someone who has used both back to back.

About the efficiency,

The review that I remember claiming increased efficiency was this one.

Despite being tested with the bigger, heavier 580 Wh battery, and the same identical tires and air pressures, the HPR60 in the Yeti used over 20% less energy – despite the bike being nearly 10% heavier than the Canyon. The measured energy consumption came in at just 25.65 Wh per 100 vertical metres, which is remarkably low, especially at full motor support.
In absolute terms, our test rider climbed nearly 2,200 vertical metres on the 580 Wh battery with an average rider output of 175 watts. For comparison’s sake, the HPR50 drive combined with the 360 Wh battery managed just over 1,050 metres under nearly identical conditions. Based on those figures, the HPR60 of the Yeti should theoretically achieve around 1,350 metres of elevation gain with the smaller 360 Wh battery – a clear and measurable improvement.
That translates to a 27.2% increase in efficiency for the Yeti compared to the Canyon, calculated based on elevation gained per unit of battery energy consumed. This figure accounts for both the weight and speed differences between the two bikes.
However, the support modes aren’t configured identically across all TQ-powered bikes. TQ leave this entirely up to the individual bike brands. For example, Canyon configure the Spectral:ONfly with much higher peak power in the “Eco” and “Mid” modes than Yeti do on the MTE. Yeti, in turn, opt for a higher assist factor instead.
Have to say with that particular review the methodology is pretty bad, they should have set both motors to the same settings in the app rather than leaving them on the stock Settings that yeti and canyon set them up with. It sounds like you’re feedback is going to be much better as it’s the exact same bike, and the only part that has been changed is the motor.

And the different batteries are going to give different results as well, one of the things they said when the Slash+ came out was the new battery was able to maintain a steadier output which helped improve power delivery and efficiency for the motor since there was less voltage drop under load. I have noticed with the Slash+ it seems to have a little more pep in its step compared to the Fuel EX-e.

But theoretically you should be getting better range if you’re running it at 300w rather than 350w, maybe it just needs time for the software to optimise itself.
 
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What’s the extra 10NM like?
Hard to describe really, but it feels like the hpr60 is assisting more at lower cadence compared to hpr50. Essentially it feels like a stronger assist even though peak power is capped at the same 300w as the hpr50. It's not a night and day difference but I can tell.
 
OK, ride #2 with the hpr60 and this time I'm seeing an increase in the amount of climbing I get out of a battery of somewhere between 10 and 15%.
Could you please provide the percentage of fuel consumption and accumulated altitude gain? Thanks.
 
Could you please provide the percentage of fuel consumption and accumulated altitude gain? Thanks.
Today was 62% used to gain 1950 feet of altitude over a distance of 13.04miles at an average moving speed of 11.1mph

But the absolute numbers don't really matter (because someone lighter or heavier, or with different tyres, different bike ,different ratio of hills to flat, riding at a different speed, different states of battery health etc would get different numbers)

it's the relative numbers compared to my previous hpr50 rides that matter,and it's hard to be super scientific about this, as there are so many variables (even when the bike itself is identical).

With regard to todays ride I've never used so little battery doing it as I did today, and I wasn't especially trying to save battery, I just rode it as I normally would. Other times I've used around 72% (versus 62% today) to do the same ride at a similar avg speed.
 
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Today was 62% used to gain 1950 feet of altitude over a distance of 13.04miles at an average moving speed of 11.1mph

But the absolute numbers don't really matter (because someone lighter or heavier, or with different tyres, different bike ,different ratio of hills to flat, riding at a different speed, different states of battery health etc would get different numbers)

it's the relative numbers compared to my previous hpr50 rides that matter,and it's hard to be super scientific about this, as there are so many variables (even when the bike itself is identical).

With regard to todays ride I've never used so little battery doing it as I did today, and I wasn't especially trying to save battery, I just rode it as I normally would. Other times I've used around 72% (versus 62% today) to do the same ride at a similar avg speed.
Thanks! That is a relief! My Mr Chat calc says that If you used 72% previously, and 62% now with very similar conditions, the overall improvement in efficiency is 10/72 = ±14%. Thats at least something! Hows the noise and overheating?
 
Thanks! That is a relief! My Mr Chat calc says that If you used 72% previously, and 62% now with very similar conditions, the overall improvement in efficiency is 10/72 = ±14%. Thats at least something! Hows the noise and overheating?
It's definitely quieter than the hpr50, not by much, but is quieter.

I never noticed an issue with overheating on the old motor, so can't really comment much on that, apart from to say I haven't noticed any overheating on the new motor either. You'd expect the new one to rarely overheat given that it's limited to 300w in the old exe and I have the cooling fins fitted.
 
Could someone take a picture of the their derailleur hangar and share please. I took mine off, not sure if I lost a spacer or washer but can't seem to re assemble it without the chain stay rubbing the seat stay and scraping off paint and probably going to damage it if I don't solve it.

Thanks.

165506-853739c32fcdc59e38d960f0ce9cd495.png
 
Could someone take a picture of the their derailleur hangar and share please. I took mine off, not sure if I lost a spacer or washer but can't seem to re assemble it without the chain stay rubbing the seat stay and scraping off paint and probably going to damage it if I don't solve it.

Thanks.
You can check the diagram in the service manual from trek's website:


See page 3 and 4 for the hanger and ABP diagrams.
 
Could someone take a picture of the their derailleur hangar and share please. I took mine off, not sure if I lost a spacer or washer but can't seem to re assemble it without the chain stay rubbing the seat stay and scraping off paint and probably going to damage it if I don't solve it.

Thanks.

View attachment 166189
That back circular washer in your hand goes between the chaistay and the seat stay.
 
That back circular washer in your hand goes between the chaistay and the seat stay.
Thanks, sorted now. The bit that threw me off was some how the chain stay and seat stay had swapped meaning the chain stay was on the inside of the seat stay instead of the other way round. Not sure how that happened in the first place but fits together perfectly now.
 
I bought the dealer service tool a couple of years ago,so I didn't have to take it to a dealer. If you dont have the tool, in that case you will need a dealer, it takes about 10 minutes with the tool to update the firmware and activate the motor, so in theory not a big deal, and shouldn't really cost anymore than what they charge for a firmware update.
Thanks for all the info mate. Is it possible to register as a non-dealer? You need the software in addition to the dongle, right? Was considering buying the dongle myself since I really can't be arsed going to the shop for updates, they are super slow here sadly.
 
Thanks for all the info mate. Is it possible to register as a non-dealer? You need the software in addition to the dongle, right? Was considering buying the dongle myself since I really can't be arsed going to the shop for updates, they are super slow here sadly.
I have some of the same questions regarding the hardware vs software. I assume the tool is a simple hardware interface and won't function without the software.

TQ has instructions here but I'm also interested if you can register as a non-dealer.
 
I have some of the same questions regarding the hardware vs software. I assume the tool is a simple hardware interface and won't function without the software.

TQ has instructions here but I'm also interested if you can register as a non-dealer.
I' m not sure if its still the case, but a while back anyone could register on the tq website and get access to everything needed.

The tool can be bought for around £100, it plugs into the usb port on your laptop , you need the tool, the software and a valid login account
 
I' m not sure if its still the case, but a while back anyone could register on the tq website and get access to everything needed.

The tool can be bought for around £100, it plugs into the usb port on your laptop , you need the tool, the software and a valid login account
Did you register at Registration ? Seems like they want a bunch of data, in germany specifically VAT / tax number. I'd really like to get this working as well. 😅

Wondering if they check the info at all or could just enter some bullshit.
 
Did you register at Registration ? Seems like they want a bunch of data, in germany specifically VAT / tax number. I'd really like to get this working as well. 😅

Wondering if they check the info at all or could just enter some bullshit.
I don't remember, I did it a couple of years ago
 
Did you register at Registration ? Seems like they want a bunch of data, in germany specifically VAT / tax number. I'd really like to get this working as well. 😅

Wondering if they check the info at all or could just enter some bullshit.
Here in Germany at least your registration is checked. I did it with some kind of bullshit data.
Was able to use the software and update my bike, but they deleted my account, because I could not provide evidence being an actual dealer.
The good thing is the tool still is working without the account.
I'm not sure if I will keep the dongle, since I have read about over the air update coming by the end of this year 🤷
Would be interesting, if this is true.
So, if someone knows details about over the air update please share your knowledge.
 
Here in Germany at least your registration is checked. I did it with some kind of bullshit data.
Was able to use the software and update my bike, but they deleted my account, because I could not provide evidence being an actual dealer.
The good thing is the tool still is working without the account.
I'm not sure if I will keep the dongle, since I have read about over the air update coming by the end of this year 🤷
Would be interesting, if this is true.
So, if someone knows details about over the air update please share your knowledge.

Thanks, I’ll just try my luck using a VPN and a country where they don’t really have any representation 😂. Let’s see what happens.
 
Any ideas on the bolt spec for the handlebar remote? Mine has pretty much rounded off! Still have the nut.
 
For anyone interested in using their Fuel Exe for commuting/touring/bikepacking once in a while, here's a pic of the Fuel Exe with the Tailfin rack attached. Quick release and it's pretty hard to see that the thru-axel has been changed to accommodate the system.

PXL_20250815_081928793.jpg
 
For anyone interested in using their Fuel Exe for commuting/touring/bikepacking once in a while, here's a pic of the Fuel Exe with the Tailfin rack attached. Quick release and it's pretty hard to see that the thru-axel has been changed to accommodate the system.

View attachment 166312
Doesn't that cause issues when the rear wheel moves up and down with the suspension?
 
Doesn't that cause issues when the rear wheel moves up and down with the suspension?
Yes, the suspension will obviously be affected by a high unsprung weight. Will it "cause issues" when touring on tarmac, gravel and easy trails? Probably not. Certainly still better than a hardtail. There are very few full suspension bikes where the rack is supported by the main frame. Riese & Muller Delite is one.
 
Any ideas on the bolt spec for the handlebar remote? Mine has pretty much rounded off! Still have the nut.
The bolt size had been reported before.
Din912 socket head cap screw M3, 12mm long (excluding the head)
 
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Shame about the "database power limit" I reckon it's based on the assumption that one would remove the cooling fins to fit the EXe, and therefore they automatically limit all retrofit production EXe's to 300W. Stil lyou have 60Nm of torque and hopefully better efficiency...
I don't think it's that thought-out. TQ has a central database of all OEM bikes and their speed + power settings. I believe all the original EXEs will have the limit set at 300 simply because that's what the OEM configuration was. My guess is a dealer could explain the situation and get TQ to change the config on their backend, which would enable DST to push the new settings.

FWIW this central management is also how they enforce speed limits (e.g. 28 MPH on Domane+ vs 20 MPH on Fuel EX-e). Even if you're a dealer you can't change this stuff in DST; you have to get TQ to make the change and then DST just flashes whatever TQ has blessed.
 
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Could a few people possibly post their motor tuned settings here please? I just Got my fuel exe and used the eco predominantly but only been using the factory settings. Wondering if anyone has some better tuned settings they wouldn't mind sharing. TIA
 
This is probably the last update from me regarding the efficiency of the Hpr60. I've done a few rides now, and the hpr60 seems to get about 15% more climbing compared to the hpr50.

I used to typically get around 2650feet of climb out of a 360wh battery, now I get around 3050 feet
 
Could a few people possibly post their motor tuned settings here please? I just Got my fuel exe and used the eco predominantly but only been using the factory settings. Wondering if anyone has some better tuned settings they wouldn't mind sharing. TIA
For me

Eco 108W and 80%
Mid 200W and 110%
High 300W and 180%
 
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