Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

A new Fuel+ in the flesh.
Not keen on the cranked top tube, but this is a small frame. Presumably these are going to be launched imminently.

Think the bike in the link is a small, medium and above have a flatter top tube. The small Rail+ has s similarly fugby top tube.
 
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Found some more dealer links to the Gen 2. I dont think there is a 9.5 version this time round.

9.7 Gen 2, eu5999, this is a great price, considering that the 9.7 gen1 launched at eu7999:

Good spec, mechanical Shimano XT, Fox Factory, eu1500 cheaper than DI2:

Same bike, but in DI2:

Some geo numbers on this listing:
That 9.7 looks spot on, solid spec and ripe for gradual upgrading.

Curious that it mentions in-frame storage too, where would that be?
 
@Mteam as a long time pioneer to the EXE community, you go! We nervously await good feedback! When are you getting delivery of your HPR60? I am tired of waiting for the official Fuel+ release, so some good content would go a long way to ease the pain! ;)
It should be here in the next couple of days, I've had the despatch notification
 
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So the hpr60 motor arrived, as per the reviews it looks near identical to the hpr 50 except for the addition of the cooling fins.

There was no issue mounting it on the bike, I adjusted the motor compensation bolts as per the tq installation manual.

The motor came with the cooling fins pre fitted.

As you'd expect, you just plug in the existing speed sensor and connect the motor to the main wire harness.

If you just power the bike up without configuring the motor with the dealer service tool you get a drive connection error. So then you use the dealer service tool to configure it for the bike. The first time it connects to the motor, it detects that it is an 'unbranded' motor and asks you to confirm the serial number of the bike, not sure where it gets this from as it was pre populated, I presume it's stored in the display?. Once you confirm the serial number it configures the motor automatically, and sets a 300w max power limit. There seems to be no option to increase the max power to the 350w the motor is capable of in other bikes. I presume there is a centralised database of bike serial numbers along with the max power limit for each bike.

The black plastic motor cover won't fit over the motor with the cooling fins fitted (as per emails I've seen from tq about the motors backward compatibility), I did try and remove the fins but I think they're stuck down with some double sided heat transfer tape, so I ended up leaving them in place and cutting a hole in the Trek plastic motor cover, I'll tidy this up at some point with a sharp knife, but it'll do for now.

The cooling fins don't protrude nay further below the motor than the plastic cover did.

I also had to cut about 5mm from the end of the locating tabs on the battery cover, as these foul the cooling fins on the motor preventing the cover from Seating correctly.


I haven't been for a proper ride yet, so can't give any info on torque or efficiency changes, I went for a quick ride round the block though, it seemed fine.

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Shame about the "database power limit" I reckon it's based on the assumption that one would remove the cooling fins to fit the EXe, and therefore they automatically limit all retrofit production EXe's to 300W. Stil lyou have 60Nm of torque and hopefully better efficiency...
 
Shame about the "database power limit" I reckon it's based on the assumption that one would remove the cooling fins to fit the EXe, and therefore they automatically limit all retrofit production EXe's to 300W. Stil lyou have 60Nm of torque and hopefully better efficiency...
I think I did read something somewhere about the power limit is from the battery, e.g the 360wh can't actually give the full 300w and you need the 580wh to get that. I know the 290wh one is only 250w on the Yeti MTe.

TBH I have found the power to be fine on the EXE, the added cooling is what I would want more than anything.
 
I think I did read something somewhere about the power limit is from the battery, e.g the 360wh can't actually give the full 300w and you need the 580wh to get that. I know the 290wh one is only 250w on the Yeti MTe.

TBH I have found the power to be fine on the EXE, the added cooling is what I would want more than anything.
The 360wh battery can give the full 350w, several of the new hpr60 bikes use this battery with no power limits on the motor.

You're right about the 290wh battery limiting the power though
 
Thanks for sharing Mteam. I'm looking forward to your impressions after you get a few miles on the bike.

Also, is the dealer service tool available to the public or did you have to take it to the dealer?
 
The 360wh battery can give the full 350w, several of the new hpr60 bikes use this battery with no power limits on the motor.

You're right about the 290wh battery limiting the power though
Looked it up again and you're right, 360wh can give the full 350w and only the 290wh is limited.

I wonder if the range extender is able to do the full 350w or if it's limited.
 
From what I can find, the new 2026 Fuel+ EX 9.7 60Nm looks to be about 700gms heavier than the 50Nm. Probably mainly in the larger battery.
As Trek NZ has some seriously discounted Gen 1 stock to move, they are not listing any Gen 2 models yet.
 
So, my Fuel Exe 9.7 goes in to the LBS to have a new display fitted this Saturday. They say they want it for the whole day as the mechanic needs to remove the motor to fit it as "some wires go behind the motor"!
From my research it looks like a rather quick replacement of the display, done at the display hole, achieved by disconnecting and then connecting two display wires.

Does any one with more experience know of a reason why the motor might need to be removed here? Thanks.
 
Very interesting @Mteam great work. Let us know how it rides..

Do you mind me asking the HPR60 cost and was it hard to get new?
It cost £899 and is available to order on the silverfish website ( the UK tq importer) in the UK. It wasn't hard to get.

 
Thanks for sharing Mteam. I'm looking forward to your impressions after you get a few miles on the bike.

Also, is the dealer service tool available to the public or did you have to take it to the dealer?
I bought the dealer service tool a couple of years ago,so I didn't have to take it to a dealer. If you dont have the tool, in that case you will need a dealer, it takes about 10 minutes with the tool to update the firmware and activate the motor, so in theory not a big deal, and shouldn't really cost anymore than what they charge for a firmware update.
 
So, my Fuel Exe 9.7 goes in to the LBS to have a new display fitted this Saturday. They say they want it for the whole day as the mechanic needs to remove the motor to fit it as "some wires go behind the motor"!
From my research it looks like a rather quick replacement of the display, done at the display hole, achieved by disconnecting and then connecting two display wires.

Does any one with more experience know of a reason why the motor might need to be removed here? Thanks.
If its just the display being replaced there is no need to drop the motor, it's probably 30 mins work to swap the display and check/update the firmware in it
 
Has anyone had problems with the handlebar remote on their fuel exe?

The "down" button stopped working on mine mid ride yesterday. When I got back I took it apart and found the microswitch for the down button had fallen apart, Ive fixed it for now,but suspect it will fail again soon,so have ordered a new remote (£100 , what a rip off!)

For a few weeks before it failed completely the down button was not feeling very positive and would fail to regsister a press every now and again.
How did you manage to get it apart? I have the same problem and would like to try replacing the micro switch
 
How did you manage to get it apart? I have the same problem and would like to try replacing the micro switch
Cut the rubber cover off with a sharp knife, repaired the switch, then glued the cover back on with rubber glue
 
Also the new motor is a lot quieter than the hpr50, and the hpr50 was pretty quiet.
now we are talking! Thanks @Mteam. Now for the big kicker! How does it ride? Is the drag on climbs (with motor turned off) as bad as the HPR50? That is my biggest gripe with the HPR50. All 5 motors had different levels of anchor dragging stickiness on climbs with motor off, even with battery out.
 
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now we are talking! Thanks @Mteam. Now for the big kicker! How does it ride? Is the drag on climbs (with motor turned off) as bad as the HPR50? That was my biggest gripe with the HPR50
I've only ridden a few miles on the road so far, up a few minor hills, I haven taken it off road yet.

But, the hpr60 is about the same as the hpr50 in terms of pedalling without assistance, to me it feels just like a regular push bike. I regularly ride it with no assistance.

I don't really recognise your complaint about the hpr50 being draggy when there's no assistance, it's probably the least draggy ebike motor there is.

Is yours faulty maybe?
 
now we are talking! Thanks @Mteam. Now for the big kicker! How does it ride? Is the drag on climbs (with motor turned off) as bad as the HPR50? That is my biggest gripe with the HPR50. All 5 motors had different levels of anchor dragging stickiness on climbs with motor off, even with battery out.
Since it has more "drag on climbs" for you, why do you think it isn't just gravity while riding a heavy electric bike uphill?
 
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Since it has more "drag on climbs" for you, why do you think it isn't just gravity while riding a heavy electric bike uphill?
For me the wheels and tyres make the biggest difference for how it pedals with the motor off. I have a pretty heavy wheelset and tyres so it sucks pretty hard without some assist, but with the stock 9.5 wheels and tyres it was a bit better.
 
For me the wheels and tyres make the biggest difference for how it pedals with the motor off. I have a pretty heavy wheelset and tyres so it sucks pretty hard without some assist, but with the stock 9.5 wheels and tyres it was a bit better.
Me too. My tires are big, heavy, and sticky for good grip. They are slower all the time but they are safer and it doesn't matter as long as the power is on. The only time I ride with the power off is when I forget to turn it on. I'm sure it is especially draggy riding uphill with the power off.
 
Me too. My tires are big, heavy, and sticky for good grip. They are slower all the time but they are safer and it doesn't matter as long as the power is on. The only time I ride with the power off is when I forget to turn it on. I'm sure it is especially draggy riding uphill with the
Same here, for me durability > weight but all depends on the riding you are doing really.
 
Trek Bikes Australia has just launched the website with the Fuel + but it looks like Australia typically only get one model one in carbon and two levels in alloy... The USA, Canada and UK get all the models...


Zero frame options over here...
 
Trek Bikes Australia has just launched the website with the Fuel + but it looks like Australia typically only get one model one in carbon and two levels in alloy... The USA, Canada and UK get all the models...


Zero frame options over here...
Same in Canada. I don't think, they are offered as frameset on North America.
 
So I went for a proper ride on the hpr60.

First the good news, I can notice the additional 10nm of torque, its most noticable up steep hills, you can feel the motor providing more help at lower cadence.

Now the bad news, the efficiency seems exactly the same as the hpr50 motor, I got exactly the same amount of vertical climbing as I got with the hpr50. I have no idea how the reviews say they're getting 20-30% more, maybe things will improve with use, but I doubt it.

For the record, I swapped the broken hpr50 motor for the hpr60, everything else on the bike stayed the same, so same tyres, tyre pressure, suspension settings, batteries etc. The only thing that changed was the motor. Everything has the latest firmware, and I configured the different assist modes on the hpr60 exactly the same as I had them on the hpr50.

I'll report back if this changes over the next few rides, but it's not looking like a step change in efficiency.
 
So I went for a proper ride on the hpr60.

First the good news, I can notice the additional 10nm of torque, its most noticable up steep hills, you can feel the motor providing more help at lower cadence.

Now the bad news, the efficiency seems exactly the same as the hpr50 motor, I got exactly the same amount of vertical climbing as I got with the hpr50. I have no idea how the reviews say they're getting 20-30% more, maybe things will improve with use, but I doubt it.

For the record, I swapped the broken hpr50 motor for the hpr60, everything else on the bike stayed the same, so same tyres, tyre pressure, suspension settings, batteries etc. The only thing that changed was the motor. Everything has the latest firmware, and I configured the different assist modes on the hpr60 exactly the same as I had them on the hpr50.

I'll report back if this changes over the next few rides, but it's not looking like a step change in efficiency.
Did you finish your ride in close to the same amount of time, not 20% faster? You probably wouldn't have mentioned this if you did but you didn't mention it and it is an important factor.
 
Did you finish your ride in close to the same amount of time, not 20% faster? You probably wouldn't have mentioned this if you did but you didn't mention it and it is an important factor.
No, it was a pretty typical ride, my moving average was 9.9mph which is about the same average as I normally do.

Obviously it's only 1 ride, so after I've done a few more I'll report back, maybe it was not a typical ride in some way... Head wind or something (clutching at straws here) . Or maybe the motor needs to bed in or something.
 
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No, it was a pretty typical ride, my moving average was 9.9mph which is about the same average as I normally do.

Obviously it's only 1 ride, so after I've done a few more I'll report back, maybe it was not a typical ride in some way... Head wind or something (clutching at straws here) . Or maybe the motor needs to bed in or something.
@Mteam Thanks for the informative report! That range is a bit of downer. 😢
I have been through a few TQ motors and I found that when I get a replacement motor it helps to do a system reset (hold center button and both remote buttons) and also drain the battery once completely until dead dead, then charge to full capacity. Maybe its worth a try?
I am pretty sure the TQ system use voltage-based readings that can drift under load, and coulomb counters accumulate small errors over time. I think after a full charge, the system resets its reference.
Maybe your controller and battery still referenced the previous motor’s current draw? The battery performance sounds just too similar to not wanna dig deeper! 😂
Hows the overheating and the motor noise?
Thanks for your help!
 
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