Levo Gen 4 Specialized Gen 4 Levo - Official Thread

Yes, for that message I posted I said I was not in CAT3 speeds (28mph). In Cat3, the speeds above 20mph are being supported, which I tested positively this weekend (other issue arises there however and it is lack of gears, ...hard gears; wished we could run 38T chainring on Gen4 (38x10) ; but that is unrelated to motor tuning).
Back to Cat1 (20mph) speed limit and abrupt power cuts around 19.7mph. Because the motor has quite some resistance when producing power it is felt very strongly when motor disengages. Especially when a human is pushing high watts. My view at this is, if the 20mph speeds are achieved primarily by RIDER and with some assistance of motor then there should be some override in algorithm to not cut the motor when 20mph is reached. and perhaps just sustain the motor support. Basically when I am working hard and I am the main producer or watts usually around 300w and motor is adding somewhere between 100-300, could the algorithm learn of that fact and just maintain the assistance, rather than cut off when speed reaches the threshold. Then it would be up to the RIDER to get above 20mph with his effort. This could be assessed by algorithm and power assistance adjusted perhaps every 10 seconds or so and would amount for much better feeling ride around that 20mph.
Or simply allow us to set the CAT3 speed for these situations with single push of button when riding.
Or supply enough power just to overcome the drag of the motor over that cut off.

Never thought if this, but that would be a cool feature....So no assistance over the speed limit... just no motor drag
 
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Thinking you might try adjusting the battery reciever. I heard in a review that the bike was cutting out and they had to make this adjustment. the screws are under the rock guard. Good luck.
I am having this issue. Occasionally all of a sudden my motor starts to completely cutout and I have no power. Can you explain this adjustment?
 
Yes, for that message I posted I said I was not in CAT3 speeds (28mph). In Cat3, the speeds above 20mph are being supported, which I tested positively this weekend (other issue arises there however and it is lack of gears, ...hard gears; wished we could run 38T chainring on Gen4 (38x10) ; but that is unrelated to motor tuning).
Back to Cat1 (20mph) speed limit and abrupt power cuts around 19.7mph. Because the motor has quite some resistance, when producing power, it is felt very strongly when motor suddenly disengages. Especially when a human is pushing high watts. My view at this is, if the 20mph speeds are achieved primarily by RIDER and with some assistance of motor then there should be some override in algorithm to not cut the motor when 20mph is reached. and perhaps just sustain the motor support. Basically when I am working hard and I am the main producer of watts usually around 300w and motor is adding somewhere between 100-300, could the algorithm learn of that fact and just maintain the assistance, rather than cut off when speed reaches the threshold. Then it would be up to the RIDER to get above 20mph with his effort. This could be assessed by algorithm and power assistance adjusted perhaps every 10 seconds or so and would amount for much better feeling ride around that 20mph.
Or simply allow us to set the CAT3 speed for these situations with single push of button when riding.
At the end of the day the Class 1-3 are laws, so when you are in class 1 and hit 20mphs it has to cut power. It can't gradually decreased power above 20mph, power needs to shutoff. Now you could start that below 20mph so you could feel the decrease, but by law no assistance over 20mph. I understand what your asking for but I think if you asked ppl if they wanted all power up to 20mph or a slow ramp down as you approached 20mph most would choose FULL Power. Be happy your in the US as you have the work around of just leaving it in Class 3 all the time and you will never feel it. Not sure what else to say but its a restriction / law that the bike industry has to follow.
 
At the end of the day the Class 1-3 are laws, so when you are in class 1 and hit 20mphs it has to cut power. It can't gradually decreased power above 20mph, power needs to shutoff. Now you could start that below 20mph so you could feel the decrease, but by law no assistance over 20mph. I understand what your asking for but I think if you asked ppl if they wanted all power up to 20mph or a slow ramp down as you approached 20mph most would choose FULL Power. Be happy your in the US as you have the work around of just leaving it in Class 3 all the time and you will never feel it. Not sure what else to say but its a restriction / law that the bike industry has to follow.
Class 1 - for road riding you select gear and cadence to maintain 18-19 mph
Class 3 - same as above but 23-24 mph hopefully. (exponential drain of battery at higher speeds)
Doesn't sound much of difference, but it is worth it.
 
Class 1 - for road riding you select gear and cadence to maintain 18-19 mph
Class 3 - same as above but 23-24 mph hopefully. (exponential drain of battery at higher speeds)
Doesn't sound much of difference, but it is worth it.
Not sure where these definitions for Classes come from but I was agreeing with the author the cutoff in class 1 at 20mph is abrupt. So to decrease that sudden cutoff I was recommending just setting the bike to class 3 and the issue disappears in US. But the cutoff for Class 1 at 20 mph is statutory.

Statutory-
Class 1 ebikes are limited to a top speed of 20 miles per hour, and the electric motor works only when the rider is pedaling. A bike with an electric motor that assists only during pedaling is called a pedelec.

Class 2 ebikes are also limited to a top speed of 20 miles per hour, but they have throttles that work when you're not pedaling. That doesn't mean the motor won't assist you if you decide to pedal. Most Class 2 ebikes offer electrically assisted pedaling alongside throttles.

Class 3 ebikes can go up to 28 miles per hour and must have a speedometer, but they may or may not have a throttle.(State by state in US)
 
Not sure where these definitions for Classes come from but I was agreeing with the author the cutoff in class 1 at 20mph is abrupt. So to decrease that sudden cutoff I was recommending just setting the bike to class 3 and the issue disappears in US. But the cutoff for Class 1 at 20 mph is statutory.
OK, I see your point about complying with the law.
What is the reasoning behind why not allowing the setting of 28 mph stick until changed to other value?
When I set class 3 - 28mph; why do I need to do it every time when I prefer to keep this setting to 28mph, as I do have commuting on roads to trail almost every time I ride.
As can be easily shown, the case for above 20mph with assistance (this is pedal assist bike; no throttle) really happening when one is riding flats, mostly paved road. Basically commuting, graveling or riding on road. No one will be able to achieve above 20mph speed in terrain/ singletrack or similar off road riding... Since the bike is capable of both cat1 and cat3 speeds and it is on the rider to follow laws and regulations and rider is responsible for setting the category accordingly to environment, why not allow to save cat3 speeds permanently.

I would like to see these be implemented:
1) If the reason why the setting defaults back to 20mph is there to protect user/rider, Specialized, please give us an option to save cat3 setting permanently for those riders that know they are in violation of any laws in their localities.
2) would be nice to be able to switch to cat3 speed when riding with single button push
 
OK, I see your point about complying with the law.
What is the reasoning behind why not allowing the setting of 28 mph stick until changed to other value?
When I set class 3 - 28mph; why do I need to do it every time when I prefer to keep this setting to 28mph, as I do have commuting on roads to trail almost every time I ride.
As can be easily shown, the case for above 20mph with assistance (this is pedal assist bike; no throttle) really happening when one is riding flats, mostly paved road. Basically commuting, graveling or riding on road. No one will be able to achieve above 20mph speed in terrain/ singletrack or similar off road riding... Since the bike is capable of both cat1 and cat3 speeds and it is on the rider to follow laws and regulations and rider is responsible for setting the category accordingly to environment, why not allow to save cat3 speeds permanently.

I would like to see these be implemented:
1) If the reason why the setting defaults back to 20mph is there to protect user/rider, Specialized, please give us an option to save cat3 setting permanently for those riders that know they are in violation of any laws in their localities.
2) would be nice to be able to switch to cat3 speed when riding with single button push
Don't disagree with you, it should save the last setting and be able to change on the fly. If I had to prioritize SW changes then give me the swap on the fly while moving, it makes no sense that you need to stop to change between class 1 & 3. But I am guessing this is Specialized interpretation of the law.
 
I am having this issue. Occasionally all of a sudden my motor starts to completely cutout and I have no power. Can you explain this adjustment?
I have not played with it yet, but i imagine when you turn the screws in it raises the reciever for a tighter fit.
 
Don't disagree with you, it should save the last setting and be able to change on the fly. If I had to prioritize SW changes then give me the swap on the fly while moving, it makes no sense that you need to stop to change between class 1 & 3. But I am guessing this is Specialized interpretation of the law.
I'm guessing it's more than an interpretation of the law. I suspect the way the firmware behaves now is a marketing decision that exploits ambiguity in some state/regional laws.

AFAIK, Specialized doesn't state what "class" their ebikes are (at least in the US). That might be due to the fact that ebike classifications aren't consistent in the US - even though 40 states have variations based on guidelines developed by People for Bikes. My guess is Specialized is doing that on purpose to give themselves flexibility, at least for the Levo 4 (and possibly the Vado which can also hit Class 3 speeds).

As an example ... is it legal for a 15 year-old to ride a Levo 4 in states like CA? Currently in CA, the rider needs to be at least 16 to ride a Class 3 ebike. But is the Levo 4 a Class 3 bike when Class 1 mode is enabled?

And if the answer is "no", what if the firmware was changed such that the Levo 4 always powered up in Class 3 mode? Is it now a Class 3 ebike?
 
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I too, have the very same Frameset on order in the USA (since April 11). I am courious if yours was odered around the same time and if you or anyone on this forum has any update as to relese date/ order fulfillment in the USA? I have heard nothing, nor has my dealer. It was rumored earlier in this thred that a Specialized stock release is scheduled for late May?
 
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Hi,

Do you now how to install the cable for the droper post on the Gen 4.

I bought only the frame, put my old Axs reverb which died today.
The new one is on order since 3 week and still not arrive yet

So, i have now to go with my spare cale one....
 
Hi,

Do you now how to install the cable for the droper post on the Gen 4.

I bought only the frame, put my old Axs reverb which died today.
The new one is on order since 3 week and still not arrive yet

So, i have now to go with my spare cale one....
So you don't know how to ride a bike without a dropper?
 
The Specialized shop in Atlanta was nice enough to give me a demo Gen 4 Expert while my Gen 3 Expert was down with GX Transmission issues. A few thoughts:
1. The motor is obviously more powerful, but I don't ride in Turbo often so that isn't much of a feature for me. The bigger advantage was how it applies the power in a very controlled and smooth fashion. That was already a big advantage of the Gen 3 over some other brands, but it is even better in the Gen 4. My motor was making a strange clunking sound while coasting over rough terrain. This seems like a one off though, since have only heard this from one other rider here on the forum.
2. My favorite new feature is the Genie shock and it is awesome for my style of riding. It's like a large volume can (like a Vivid) with the hydraulic bottom out support. It jumped well, took repeated hits in the rough better than my X2, and bottomed out in a very controlled fashion. If anyone goes to a different shock and wants to sell their Genie, send me a PM.
3. Not much difference in the geo. I think the chainstays are too short in that shortest position for the S4, but it is fun in the turns and when jumping. I switched to the longer position to help with climbing and descending, which is about the same as the short position of the Gen 3. I'm surprised they didn't go with 444 as the short and something longer given the current trend to longer chainstays, especially in those larger sizes. I keep hearing that folks love the new geo, but I didn't notice much difference in the longer setting except a little steeper position while seated, which you could also probably mimic somewhat by scooting your seat forward on the rails. I also didn't notice the extra weight.
4. Many say it looks better in person. It does not. In fact, I thought it looked offensive from the side until I saw it from above where it is even more morbidly obese. The side view is actually it's best angle, which is kind of like being the tallest midget. There is a gunt of a downtube on what would otherwise be a sexy bike. I don't care much about looks when choosing a bike, so this is by no means a deal breaker for me.
5. I think they are positioning this as a more trail oriented option and there will be a more Kenevo-esque option on the way with more travel and longer chainstays. The "Levo Evo" has a nice ring to it.
5. In summary, not enough good things there to upgrade from the Gen 3. If I needed a bike though, would probably still buy it because of the excellent dealer support.
 
I apologize if this issue was already addressed in this thread, but I have an S-Works Turbo Levo 4, and I've had so many issues with it. Just a moment ago I randomly looked at it in my insulated, climate-controlled garage where I store it and I noticed that it was turned on. This is not the first time I've noticed that it has randomly turned itself on. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Can anyone with an S5 or S6 comment on the stability for fast DH stuff? 435mm/444mm might be a deal breaker for me. I’m very surprised they don’t have size specific chainstays - it’s standard on modern bikes, especially at this price.

I was deciding between this, Bullit and E-Druid but the short CS might have made my choice easier. Disappointed, as I’ve had good experiences on previous Spec bikes.
I'm considering an S6 (535mm reach) and I'm worried about the 444mm chainstay too. Perhaps since it was first asked, there's been some riders buy an S6?

If it's just something worth noting in reviews, but easily adjusted to, that's fine. If it's an issue that would sour the $18K AUS purchase, I would avoid. It's not possible to get access to this size to try.
 
I'm considering an S6 (535mm reach) and I'm worried about the 444mm chainstay too. Perhaps since it was first asked, there's been some riders buy an S6?

If it's just something worth noting in reviews, but easily adjusted to, that's fine. If it's an issue that would sour the $18K AUS purchase, I would avoid. It's not possible to get access to this size to try.
Hi I’m on a s5 sworks , I was worried about the shorter chainstay , the bike does feel slightly twitcher than my gen 3 but I actually put that down to the narrower front tyre , I used to run 2.6 tyres and the dealer fitted a 2.4 , they come with 2.3 as standard, I am going to try the longer chain stay setting which I believe will make it 2mm longer than the gen 3 , however the bike is so nice to ride and for how big it is it’s so nibble and feels very light to me when riding , definitely the thing changes direction quickly it’s very sharp , I am really enjoying it , that’s my first impression of 1 week of riding and 104 miles on it .
 
Hi,

Do you now how to install the cable for the droper post on the Gen 4.

I bought only the frame, put my old Axs reverb which died today.
The new one is on order since 3 week and still not arrive yet

So, i have now to go with my spare cale one....
I also bought just the frame and it came with the cable already installed. If you removed it, there is no other way to put it back in except to remove the motor
I also installed a normal derailleur so I had to disconnect the battery cable from the AXS derailleur and this also requires removing the motor
Hope it helps 👍
 
I also bought just the frame and it came with the cable already installed. If you removed it, there is no other way to put it back in except to remove the motor
I also installed a normal derailleur so I had to disconnect the battery cable from the AXS derailleur and this also requires removing the motor
Hope it helps 👍
Thanks !!!
 
The Specialized shop in Atlanta was nice enough to give me a demo Gen 4 Expert while my Gen 3 Expert was down with GX Transmission issues. A few thoughts:
1. The motor is obviously more powerful, but I don't ride in Turbo often so that isn't much of a feature for me. The bigger advantage was how it applies the power in a very controlled and smooth fashion. That was already a big advantage of the Gen 3 over some other brands, but it is even better in the Gen 4. My motor was making a strange clunking sound while coasting over rough terrain. This seems like a one off though, since have only heard this from one other rider here on the forum.
2. My favorite new feature is the Genie shock and it is awesome for my style of riding. It's like a large volume can (like a Vivid) with the hydraulic bottom out support. It jumped well, took repeated hits in the rough better than my X2, and bottomed out in a very controlled fashion. If anyone goes to a different shock and wants to sell their Genie, send me a PM.
3. Not much difference in the geo. I think the chainstays are too short in that shortest position for the S4, but it is fun in the turns and when jumping. I switched to the longer position to help with climbing and descending, which is about the same as the short position of the Gen 3. I'm surprised they didn't go with 444 as the short and something longer given the current trend to longer chainstays, especially in those larger sizes. I keep hearing that folks love the new geo, but I didn't notice much difference in the longer setting except a little steeper position while seated, which you could also probably mimic somewhat by scooting your seat forward on the rails. I also didn't notice the extra weight.
4. Many say it looks better in person. It does not. In fact, I thought it looked offensive from the side until I saw it from above where it is even more morbidly obese. The side view is actually it's best angle, which is kind of like being the tallest midget. There is a gunt of a downtube on what would otherwise be a sexy bike. I don't care much about looks when choosing a bike, so this is by no means a deal breaker for me.
5. I think they are positioning this as a more trail oriented option and there will be a more Kenevo-esque option on the way with more travel and longer chainstays. The "Levo Evo" has a nice ring to it.
5. In summary, not enough good things there to upgrade from the Gen 3. If I needed a bike though, would probably still buy it because of the excellent dealer support.
Its always so weird to me that people don't notice a weight difference of a bike of 1-2 kg. When I switch from a sub 23 kg bike to bike that is around 25 kg I notice it immediately. I don't even have to ride it for long. Just grabbing it and rolling, flicking it from side to side its immediately obvious. I mean that weight is equivalent to strapping 2 to 4 waterbottles on your frame.
 
I also bought just the frame and it came with the cable already installed. If you removed it, there is no other way to put it back in except to remove the motor
I also installed a normal derailleur so I had to disconnect the battery cable from the AXS derailleur and this also requires removing the motor
Hope it helps 👍
Are you sure about that? Usually they put a nylon tubes inside the frame to help protect the cable and to guide the cables to the handlebar openings effortlessly ... Also on Gen2/3 you could for example only remove the left motor cover to help you guide the dropper cable in both directions ...
 
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Its always so weird to me that people don't notice a weight difference of a bike of 1-2 kg. When I switch from a sub 23 kg bike to bike that is around 25 kg I notice it immediately. I don't even have to ride it for long. Just grabbing it and rolling, flicking it from side to side its immediately obvious. I mean that weight is equivalent to strapping 2 to 4 waterbottles on your frame.
I equate riding eMTB to riding MTX (motocross), you can feel the weight yes but you also have a motor to over come most of that weight. Now 2-5lbs on a regular MTB is way more significant.
 
Are you sure about that? Usually they put a nylon tubes inside the frame to help protect the cable and to guide the cables to the handlebar openings effortlessly ... Also on Gen2/3 you could for example only remove the left motor cover to help you guide the dropper cable in both directions ...
all cables and wires run along the inside of the downtube just behind the battery and then further down the frame just behind the battery mount. There is no way to run a cable from the seatpost or derailleur without removing the motor
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all cables and wires run along the inside of the downtube just behind the battery and then further down the frame just behind the battery mount. There is no way to run a cable from the seatpost or derailleur without removing the motor

Sad to hear... Seatpost cable is too short on mine. Not really happy to go to my LBS to make the change...
Small question what wrap brand have you used for your frame ? Tried Ride wrap for mine but was a nightmare to apply it...
 
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