Could it be from the pedals? I had a brand new set of Burgtec Penthouse Mk5's that immediately had an issue and would click on every rotation of the cranks. I could even feel it in my foot. They then ejected their grease, so I sent them straight back to be rebuilt under warranty.
Strive:ON problems
- Thread starter hubertsk
- Start date
pretty sure not, but to be sure I'll also replace the pedals with my other ones which don't creak on my other bike... won't hurt...
yeah had that before... will remove, clean, carbon paste it too
CWP-7 Compact Universal Crank Puller
A universal wrench-driven tool for removing crank arms from virtually all three-piece crank systems.
www.parktool.com
Yeah, it's a simple thing to try. I was surprised to find such expensive new pedals with a fault, but better that it was the pedals than anything else.
As for the crank puller, I think I just used a standard one from a MTB toolkit I had. I don't recall buying anything special to get them off.
Cheers, I think I have something like that and just checked... came in an old toolset that I'd forgotten aboutCWP-7 Compact Universal Crank Puller
A universal wrench-driven tool for removing crank arms from virtually all three-piece crank systems.
Yeah, looks like the one I have.
Elimination process:-
1. See if the noise is still there when pedalling whether seated or stood up on the pedals. If it is still there it is not the saddle.
2. See if the noise is only associated with fairly high torque on the cranks or also with only light pressure on the pedals. If is still there even with light torque on the pedals it is less likely to be cranks or motor retention bolts but could be pedals or a worn chainwheel/damaged chain. If only there with fairly heavy torque on the pedals, regardless whether seated or stood up, I would suspect pedals, cranks, or motor retention bolts. Knackered pedal bearings should be easy enough to test by hand. checking how the chain rides on the chainwheel can be checked by eye on a workstand. Motor retention bolts can only really be dealt with by removal, cleaning , regreasing, and re torqueing.
Chady
Member
Hi all been following this thread for a while just about to pull the trigger on this with the bike with the discounts at the moment but been wary with the battery latch problems. Just wondering Hows the battery mechanism holding up for you guys riding with the upgraded/updated fix from canyon and bosch?anyone managed to get sum miles in with this fix?
CrispyDesigns
Active member
With the redesigned latch I've had absolutely no problems at all. The achilles heal of this bike has been fixed. It's a great bike now. I wouldn't hesitate getting one with the discounts available
Chady
Member
Thank you sir for the quick reply.
It's a bit more reassuring to no that the fix is working for someone.
CrispyDesigns
Active member
My friend Andy has the same bike (I have the green CFR and he has the Underdog CFR). He also has the new latch fitted after some issues with the original item and hasn't had any problems with battery disconnects since swapping
Tieff
Active member
I think you should also mention what size battery you are using. The 625Wh model always had fewer problems than the 750Wh model because it is 680 grams lighter. This can make a big difference in tough enduro use.
Tubby G
❤️🔥 Hot Stuff ❤️🔥
Zero problems with mine since the upgrade. 750Wh Underdog. It’s a fantastic bike
CrispyDesigns
Active member
I have the 750 battery in my bike
Tieff
Active member
That's really great to hear!
CrispyDesigns
Active member
Because that's the spec I bought
Winryn
Active member
1000 miles down so decided to swap tyres. Never liked having a 2.4 on the back after having 2.8’s on previous bike. Put 2.6 eddy currents on. Feel great so far
View attachment IMG_0153.jpeg
View attachment IMG_0153.jpeg
Mario Antony
Active member
Mario Antony
Active member
I do not have a Strive so my comments are purely my opinion based on all the information given on here a bout the problem. It does seem that the new latch has solved the issue for some users but I wonder for long. I commented before that i saw the issue as being one of battery stability with the latch merely being a victim of that and not the main cause of the disconnections suffered.
The battery connector has lugs to guide the battery into the pin locations but those lugs are not designed to hold the battery securely. Any sideways movement of the battery will damage those pin connections over time.
At the bottom of the battery the bosch latch is a cam lever system and the "fixed" end of that lever is secured in a slot of the ally block Canyon bolted to the bottom of the downtube. Any sideways movement will readilly wear that ally slot ( on a bosch rail system that slot is steel and is an integral part of the rail system). Any cam lever will fail if the distance from the pivot point to the fixed securing point is reduced. In summary I believe the problem is and always was the battery not being properly secured....that in turn compromising the bosch latch and possibly the main connector at the top. So I agree with you.
The battery connector has lugs to guide the battery into the pin locations but those lugs are not designed to hold the battery securely. Any sideways movement of the battery will damage those pin connections over time.
At the bottom of the battery the bosch latch is a cam lever system and the "fixed" end of that lever is secured in a slot of the ally block Canyon bolted to the bottom of the downtube. Any sideways movement will readilly wear that ally slot ( on a bosch rail system that slot is steel and is an integral part of the rail system). Any cam lever will fail if the distance from the pivot point to the fixed securing point is reduced. In summary I believe the problem is and always was the battery not being properly secured....that in turn compromising the bosch latch and possibly the main connector at the top. So I agree with you.
Tieff
Active member
Can you please tell us how you secured the battery from moving sideways? If several people try this and it works, there is even more certainty that the solution will help.
Mario Antony
Active member
@Tieff
I prefer to test it, and check it really solved the issue, before disclosing the solution, and prefer to explain why:
I had over 1000km problem free, meaning without any power cutouts.
Then, the bike became having further rattle until cutouts appear (and when it happen, I couldn't maintain the battery connected and was very far from anything, and alone. Not good at all....).
I entered a warranty clame, and Canyon forward a latch, and a friend's shop, who is a Bosch repair center, cleared all errors.
Because I didn't want any cutouts again, I tried the Ziptie mod, as well as a variation of Tobias mod.
Things were ok, until one day.... power cutouts again, but intermitent.
My friend (bosch dealer), asked me to perform a simple solution, otherwise it would need further troobleshooting - replace the Mini Controller battery CR1620.
Problem solved!
[[YES, There are people that say this is not a solution, because the bike can work without the minicontroller] - never tried to ride without the minicontroller, and thing is... after replacing the CR1620, things started working ok!]].
After some rides, without any issue, cutouts again.
Bike wouldn't turn on.
[[Side note: the ridiculous thing was figuring this, after a car drive of over 200km, to ride some different trails!!!! A day lost, for nothing.... almost! At least I had a nice lunch with nice wine and everything!]]
Warranty clame again, and this time, Canyon want me to drop the bike over a Bikeshop they designated.
The new latch design would be installed, and I asked to check the upper connecter while the bike was there.
Bike arrived from the warranty clame, and on the first rides was ok, but on one particular crash (climbing a steep and torturous trail), the bike disconnected and wouldn't turn on! My only thought was really: "F......... this!!!!!!"
I place the bike on a wheelie position, and raised the rear wheel, smashing it to the ground.
Problem solved... but the mystery was still unsolved!
So.... it lead to a full troubleshooting before any ride!
[[I work with airplanes, so.... an ebikewain't so complex, and it wouldn't beat me! No f..... way!]]
What I found:
Upper Connector completly lose on the support that attatchs to the frame (which is stainless steel by the way).
A wire that was a bit damage (bent and dented). Took care of this, and move on!
The connectors (proctruded steel parts), full of deposits. ---> cleaned properly.
Check that the protective cap, that goes in this upper bracket don't fit snugged, so I solved it. No more moving things on this side, so, no more noise (I hope!)
Everything was then assembled, using threadlocker, and that is it!
This was done!
After assembly the battery, I could notice some side to side movement, so I figured out a Prototype.
Thing has been steeler, up to this point! It has also quieten the bike, and the rattling noise is reduced by a long shot, and mainly from the motor (at least it seems like it).
So.......
I'll be testing until I'm convinced that the issue is gone with this simple solution!
As soon as the last interaction is ready (or at least as endured my usage), I'll 3D print the final model, with all the fine tunes that I think it needs, and post here.
If this, doesn't cut the mostard, I'm working on an ultimate solution, but unfortunately it won't have the practicabilty of the original - meaning removing battery with a latch!
Now.... let's put some HARD kilometers on the Strive and check everything!
Fingers crossed!
[[Edit/Add: the battery doesn't connect to the plug firmly, I'd say it's a lose connection, that is maintain using the latch.
I was hoping that the interface Plug/Battery had some kind of interferance, as we (at least in Europe!), have on any electric plug at home. You need to force the plug to connect something...
This interface it's not the case with Bosch]]
Last edited:
Tieff
Active member
OK thanks. That was a very long and detailed explanation and I am grateful for it. After all that, I can understand that you don't want to describe the solution yet because there is of course the risk that it won't really solve the problem permanently. I also thought of a solution to restrict the lateral movement of the battery (even though my battery doesn't move sideways at all): simply insert a bicycle hose with a valve to the right and left of the battery or attach it to the battery and after inserting the battery Inflate the hose with the pump. This is good and easy.
But, as many have already said here, I think the problem is simply that the battery is only held by the connector at the top and the latch at the bottom. If they (Canyon) would have used the original Bosch Rail, firstly the lateral movement would be eliminated and secondly the weight of the battery would be absorbed via the rail. If you look at the whole thing from an engineering perspective, then what is there now is a terrible design error and all attempts to change that end in more or less good "tinkering".
The only solution I see: put in the Bosch rail and clamp (screw) the battery to the rail. But unfortunately this also requires more stable screws for the rail, which then have to be attached to the carbon. Not really ideal if you have to do something like that retroactively...
Lazy Clydesdale
New Member
I am going to have to try this pre-emptively with some dense foam tucked along the battery sides. Thanks for the awareness
Tieff
Active member
I tried something like that too. Please be careful. If the foam is stuck tightly (so that the battery can no longer move), then it will be very, very difficult to get the foam or the battery or both out again!
Mario Antony
Active member
I would prefer to place some Foam Tape (eg: )
It's not the solution I'm testing BTW, but it's a solution and easy to install!
PS: after all the bolts and bracket correctly tight, I can say that the solution has made the bike more silent, and after 100km, and over 4500m, no cutouts!! It looks promissing
It's not the solution I'm testing BTW, but it's a solution and easy to install!
PS: after all the bolts and bracket correctly tight, I can say that the solution has made the bike more silent, and after 100km, and over 4500m, no cutouts!! It looks promissing
Last edited:
