Bafang m510

Caio said:
How long does your transmission parts last? Will SRAM 12s last longer than SHIMANO?
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Tried all of the above and found going right back to 10spd lasts the best. If you go to 11spd you can use a 10spd chain ( ever so slightly thicker links ), doesn't change quite as slick when new but after a couple 100Km you cant tell the difference.
 
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Waynemarlow said:
Tried all of the above and found going right back to 10spd lasts the best. If you go to 11spd you can use a 10spd chain ( ever so slightly thicker links ), doesn't change quite as slick when new but after a couple 100Km you cant tell the difference.
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You shouldn't really ever do that except in emergencies. You can run 10/11/12 speed chains on 10 speed and 11/12 speed on 11 speed, but never a lower speed chain - it doesn't fit, so you're inducing wear on the cassette and/or the chain.

I'm presently running 10/11/12 speed setups. All Shimano cassettes and derailleurs with SRAM chains, except the 12 speed which I've left with a shimano 12 speed chain as that doesn't seem sh1t. Steel chainrings, the alloy ones seem to wear in about 100k if you ride hard and then just screw everything else up.

Haven't run the 10 speed long enough to gauge life span, but ultimately shifting style (sympathetic) and lube (I use Squirt about every 50km's, applied after a ride) Previously used the different muck off's but they just seem to make crap stick to the chain and cause wear.

The 10 speed I run with an 11 speed SRAM chain. It shifts smoother with the 11 speed. Smoother has to help with life span ! + snapped the 10 speed KMC on the first 10 speed setup and the Shimano 10 speed chain just doesn't shift as nicely.

The 12 speed setup is on 4k with original chain and barely any stretch. The 11 Speed is also on 4k and on chain 3 - I just change them every 1000-1500k just to experiment with cassette lifespan on that setup.

If you're getting low life span, is most likely down to shifting or derailleur adjustment.
 
Zimmerframe said:
it doesn't fit,
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How so, the pitch is exactly the same, the chain if setup correctly will not touch the nearby chain rings, where is the problem ? All chains are 1/2" pitch, all chains are 3/32" inner width, its just the overall pin length. I will take the extra 0.25mm of chain link thickness to try and stop any chain stretch which my fat arse and riding style seems to encourage, taking the slightly delayed change which after about 100km, is no worse than the 11sp chain.

Here's an interesting article to read but as with all chain / cassette discussion, there's never a consensus.
Chains for 11-speed systems are around 5.4mm wide on the outside, vs. around 5.9mm wide for 10-speed ones, so that’s 0.25mm narrower from the center of the cog tooth to the end of the chain pin on each side. That’s not enough to likely even be noticeable in any difference in how it passes through the jockey wheel cage. It will be slightly slower getting over to the next cog or chainring during a shift, but the difference in width is so small that it’s also likely not to be noticeable.
velo.outsideonline.com

Tech FAQ: Chain width explained, compatibility queries answered

Lennard Zinn answers readers' questions about 10-speed and 11-speed inter-compatibility and explains what chain width actually means.
velo.outsideonline.com velo.outsideonline.com

4k km's on a chain, thats almost dream territory here in the UK slop and mud. 1K km is about all I can get if if I change at the 0.5 - 0.6 stretch to save the cassette ( that way I get 3 chains to every cassette, the chains are the cheap component ). Any further and you are into as some do, changing the cassette and chain together. But by then the chain is so sloppy that the changing is really really dodgy.
 
Hi !
Just taking some feedback about this motor, which is on my short list.
It has been on the market for a couple of years now, what is the reliability of the M510 compared to Bosch (CX) and Shimano (EP8) ?
Thanks :)
 
Jil said:
Hi !
Just taking some feedback about this motor, which is on my short list.
It has been on the market for a couple of years now, what is the reliability of the M510 compared to Bosch (CX) and Shimano (EP8) ?
Thanks :)
Click to expand...
Reliability is always going to be a difficult one to analyse due to how figures are/and aren't ... presented.

M510's are tiny in the scheme of overall number of motor's on EMTB's (used as EMTB's).

Manufactures generally don't give numbers either.

Ultimately you need to look at support and parts availability. The M510 doesn't have much at the moment but the older ones do, so things trickle through as warranty times expire.

In terms of efficiency/range/feel .. the M510 is nice. It's pretty comparable to a Bosch Gen4 once it's run in. EMTB mode on a Gen4 is still slightly nicer and gives slightly better range/power combination to a 510.

Personally, I wouldn't even quantify Shimano in the same comparison. Either in terms of performance, range, altitude, economy, reliability, warranty (especially that !) - though some people like it. (It's better than nothing).

Ultimately, the Brose, Bosch and M510 are all pretty "similar" for what you will get. So if you're really stuck then either pick the bike which has all the other bits you want or for longer term, the M510 will probably be safer as it's easier to buy a replacement motor for example.

Now they're more mainstream (M510) they've revealed a lot of short comings with electronics water proofing, which is their main fail point, so if you ride it in the wet a lot possibly spend some time making sure connections are correct and add additional sealing + lots of water ingress problems on the handlebar controllers and display.

Personally, I've ridden repeatedly in torrential rain and had zero issues.. But I guess I've been lucky. Always dry the bike well afterwards.
 
Hello everyone.
I have for sale:
screws for e10 50 eur.
derailleur hanger e10 15 eur,
best tool 175 eur.
Bafang speed sensor rotor mount 20eur/pcs, have 2pcs
everything listed is new. I send by post to the EU. thank you
 
I've got a bike with a m510 motor and the 840wh battery. I'm very happy with the range I get, but the battery percentage indicator stays at 100% for quite a while on a ride, then starts to drop, and when you get to 50% the motor loses some of its power, and at 20%, even in level 5, it feels like it's in limp home mode. Is that normal?

Thanks
 
Hello Smilesy

Thats right. I guess you dont have original Bafang battery with CAN bus. Then motors are starting to limit power later. Depends on firmware though.

Shouldnt be starting at 50% - thats too soon. M600 was starting at 30%, M510 FC2.0 at 25%

There will be soon something to trick this - K1 BBR. ;)

K1 Products.jpg
 
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Dado said:
Hello Smilesy

Thats right. I guess you dont have original Bafang battery with CAN bus. Then motors are starting to limit power later. Depends on firmware though.

Shouldnt be starting at 50% - thats too soon. M600 was starting at 30%, M510 FC2.0 at 25%

There will be soon something to trick this. ;)

View attachment 130983
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Thanks, I'll keep my eye for it.
At least I'm aware of it now so that I don't expect to 50% battery to be the halfway point of my ride, more like 3/4 point of the ride.
 
I've lost the left side crank end cap twice from my bike. Is that a normal issue? I'm thinking I might use some thread lock next time, unless anyone has a reason not to.

My crank bolts also came loose yesterday, and I almost had a pretty big crash with the crank coming off.
 
Yes, many people reporting this. Just give it good Nm. ;) (after tightening 2 main screws)
 
Smilesy said:
I've lost the left side crank end cap twice from my bike. Is that a normal issue? I'm thinking I might use some thread lock next time, unless anyone has a reason not to.

My crank bolts also came loose yesterday, and I almost had a pretty big crash with the crank coming off.
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From time to time you should check the tightening of the two bolts on the crank. Thread locker should also be used there.
When the bike was freshly assembled, the fasteners were first unscrewed in unexpected places, so it's worth checking the tightening more often after assembly.
 
I’ve got a M510 fc1.0 with a 52v battery and looking at the DPC 245 display. Has anyone run one with a 52v battery, and does it report the battery capacity remaining correctly?
 
You wont have correct SOC reading if you dont have 52V firmware.
But there is a trick with K1 BB Racing device.

IMG_20240110_115842.jpg
 
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Dado - here is the firmware I’m currently running. It seems to work ok with the DPC18 display I currently have. Not sure if that means it’s a 52v firmware or 48v.

Thanks.

IMG_4551.jpeg
 
Hello.
You have 48 Volts firmware. ...C4814i... Thats voltage and max allowed current 14A. Have not seen yet 52V firmware to M510.

Are u sure u have 52V battery? Then it would hold some time SOC at 100% after full charge. Even 1/5 of battery capacity.
Unless you have CAN battery. Then it would work and SOC will be accurate.
You are peaking 800W with this combination. More poweeeer. ;)) Also K1 BBR can do this, there is even little more Wats with 43V firmware and 48V battery combination.

You can freely add DPC245. Controller is calculating SOC, display is just showing it.
 
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Yes, it’s certainly a 52v battery. Charge holds quicker at the top end compared to the bottom end, but it doesn’t hold 100% charge for long. In saying that the current display has an option to set the battery voltage (32v, 48v or 52v), so it must be showing the SOC instead of using the controller.
 
Hmmm, it has option to set battery voltage? Intersting, could you take a screenshot?
I had DPC18 and did not noticed it.
 
>PETE< said:
Yes, it’s certainly a 52v battery. Charge holds quicker at the top end compared to the bottom end, but it doesn’t hold 100% charge for long. In saying that the current display has an option to set the battery voltage (32v, 48v or 52v), so it must be showing the SOC instead of using the controller.
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My M510 @ 52 volts and DPC245 display does not show the correct percentage. It shows 100% until the voltage gets down to 48volt battery levels. That’s not a bad thing as the motor will continue @ 100% power despite the battery being less than 35%.. The display shows around 40% when the battery is getting down to its last 10%. My old DPC242 somehow knew that it was running on 52V and gave a correct percentage.

I’ve never run the battery fully out so below that point I’m not sure what the display will read at that point. I must try it one day but that means peddling up a long hill to my house. Mmmm not sure I want to.
 
Dado said:
Hmmm, it has option to set battery voltage? Intersting, could you take a screenshot?
I had DPC18 and did not noticed it.
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Just had a look, and you’re right - There is no option. I know their website specifically states that it’s designed for the 3 different voltage batteries (inc 52v) where as the dpc 245 has only been designed for battery voltages of 48 and under: 零部件
 
Bafang CAN displays works with every voltage. Dont worry, also DPC245 will be working.
Do u have Battery Info option on display? If so you have 52V CAN battery and this would be the reason why it show you correct SOC.
 
Does anyone know the best/correct place to purchase a Bafang m510 motor and associated parts?

I'm in the UK and am having trouble finding the information i'm looking for.
 
1704987075865.png

Use Alibaba.com to contact Chilli Shen. She has been very good so far and fast delivery. If you use Alibaba you will get payment protection if she raises an invoice within Alibaba. DHL delivers within a few days of leaving China. Took about 3 weeks from order to arrive.
 
Hi, I purchased m510 (too early, got v1.0). I would like to change the controller to V2.0. Can I change the controller only or is updated torque sensor (shaft) is also needed?
 
Hello Dave.
I see you have also FC1.0 from the version of your firmware.

Adam, cheapest is K1 Flash Light (can set also all the parameters of FC2.0), but if you wanna experiment also with flashing firmwares then K1 Flash (comes also with many firmware files on SD card). I do not expecting new controller will come with latest firmware.
 
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