2023 Orbea Wild

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Can I ask what colour this is? The bike looks much better without the colour split just above the motor IMO.
Top/Bottom both in matte mouse grey (and black letters) Probably as generic and boring as it gets :p

I would most likely have gone for something different if I were to choose again, but I'd definitely still choose one single color overall.


1 Orbea Wild 2023.jpg 2 Orbea Wild 2023.jpg.jpg
 
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Hi all, apologies if this has been asked but without going through the whole thread.

Can anyone comment on sizing on the wild? I'm 6ft and I've ordered a large wild but notice they have a low seattube for their size. For those of you same height as me what size did you go with?

Many thanks
 
Hi all, apologies if this has been asked but without going through the whole thread.

Can anyone comment on sizing on the wild? I'm 6ft and I've ordered a large wild but notice they have a low seattube for their size. For those of you same height as me what size did you go with?

Many thanks
I am 6ft and went with a large, think it fits perfectly. I am running a 170mm Rockshox AXS Reverb Dropper and could have fit a dropper with more travel but 170mm is all that I need on this bike.

Keep in mind other body dimensions play a role in how a bike "fits" you and size can be a personal preference depending on the ride characteristics you are seeking.

I think Orbea runs a lower seat tube to give you more options for longer travel droppers. Only have a couple rides on my new Wild, but it fit like a glove right out of the gate.

See pics of new Wild and of my YT Decoy that has a seat tube that's actually longer then most manufacturers. I can barely fit the same 170mm dropper.

Having owned 5 emtbs over last few years (too many Amish bikes over the years to count!) and ridden a few of my riding buddies emtbs, think the Wild is the best all-round bike I've ever rode. Climbs awesome, likes the flowy/techy stuff and more then holds its own on the knar!

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Thanks , yeah this is my first e-mtb. Have rode for many years on analogue bikes and always rode large frames. Reach seems spot on just the shorter seat tube which I'd normally expect on a medium sized frame.
 
Hey, loving my M10 Wild, just took a very small tumble on it today in some loose wood chip stuff and it did this...

Stem had slightly gone to the left, all bolts torqued to the required Nm too if that helps.

Any ideas/thoughts?

It's in two pieces by the way, I just had to put it back together after straightening the bars so I could ride back to the truck.

20230827_135905.jpg
 
Hey, loving my M10 Wild, just took a very small tumble on it today in some loose wood chip stuff and it did this...

Stem had slightly gone to the left, all bolts torqued to the required Nm too if that helps.

Any ideas/thoughts?

It's in two pieces by the way, I just had to put it back together after straightening the bars so I could ride back to the truck.

View attachment 123479
Sounds like you whipped the bar pretty good on impact. Also looks like the weakest link let go. I would order the new piece and move on. Obviously make sure everything is straight and not damaged…
I had a get-off and the bar rotated right past the “stopper”. No damage done though.
You know what they say..if you don’t crash you’re not riding hard enough! 😊
 
Sounds like you whipped the bar pretty good on impact. Also looks like the weakest link let go. I would order the new piece and move on. Obviously make sure everything is straight and not damaged…
I had a get-off and the bar rotated right past the “stopper”. No damage done though.
You know what they say..if you don’t crash you’re not riding hard enough! 😊
Thanks for the comment, just my pet hate now is the stem and spacer setup. May just got for a different stem and spacers. I'm guessing that's absolutely fine/possible to do.
 
Thanks for the comment, just my pet hate now is the stem and spacer setup. May just got for a different stem and spacers. I'm guessing that's absolutely fine/possible to do.
For sure. If mine ever does something similar I’ll swap for aftermarket stem.
 
I never used the stock stem that came in my Wild. Use an aftermarket stem with round spacers. You will need to purchase this part if you choose to go that route.

Thanks @Singletrackmind, I've clicked the link but just loads the entire spare parts section. I don't suppose you have a part number or name please? Much appreciated.
 
Hey, loving my M10 Wild, just took a very small tumble on it today in some loose wood chip stuff and it did this...

Stem had slightly gone to the left, all bolts torqued to the required Nm too if that helps.

Any ideas/thoughts?

It's in two pieces by the way, I just had to put it back together after straightening the bars so I could ride back to

Hey, loving my M10 Wild, just took a very small tumble on it today in some loose wood chip stuff and it did this...

Stem had slightly gone to the left, all bolts torqued to the required Nm too if that helps.

Any ideas/thoughts?

It's in two pieces by the way, I just had to put it back together after straightening the bars so I could ride back to the truck.

View attachment 123479
This is what I was talking about(page 8) when the bike was released, no one mostly really understood what I ment. I would check that the brake hose wasn't crimped by the rotation of the stem you don't want to loose your brakes on a downhill...
 
This is what I was talking about(page 8) when the bike was released, no one mostly really understood what I ment. I would check that the brake hose wasn't crimped by the rotation of the stem you don't want to loose your brakes on a downhill...
Thanks for the heads up man! That could be a disaster!
 
I never used the stock stem that came in my Wild. Use an aftermarket stem with round spacers. You will need to purchase this part if you choose to go that route.

Will 100% be going for an aftermarket stem now, the part in question that I would need from Orbea to stick with the stock stem wouldn't be with me until Jan 24. 😂
 
Hey man,

I don't suppose you have any walkthrough or pointers for me, I believe that I am going to have to strip the cables etc off of the dropper post, brake leavers and gear shifter to then re-route the cables through the new part.

Is that correct?

Thank you.
Hope this helps.
 
Hey man,

I don't suppose you have any walkthrough or pointers for me, I believe that I am going to have to strip the cables etc off of the dropper post, brake leavers and gear shifter to then re-route the cables through the new part.

Is that correct?

Thank you.
Unfortunately you will have to strip off all the cables. I am running SRAM AXS Dropper Post and Transmission Drivetrain, so I only had to run the rear brake cable and did this when setting up brand new bicycle. You may want to strip the cable ends on the Handlebar side, route through the openings on the new part then mount the aftermarket stem and round spacers.
 
Unfortunately you will have to strip off all the cables. I am running SRAM AXS Dropper Post and Transmission Drivetrain, so I only had to run the rear brake cable and did this when setting up brand new bicycle. You may want to strip the cable ends on the Handlebar side, route through the openings on the new part then mount the aftermarket stem and round spacers.
Hey, just a quick update.

I have managed to do everything that I needed too and got my Burgtec stem, spacers etc on.

Only issue is that the Spin Block fell out when I first took it apart and fell into the frame, I don't suppose you have any tips on getting it out?

My next step is to just take the stem etc off and drop the forks out to then see if I can tip it out. 🤦🏼‍♂️😂
 
Hey, just a quick update.

I have managed to do everything that I needed too and got my Burgtec stem, spacers etc on.

Only issue is that the Spin Block fell out when I first took it apart and fell into the frame, I don't suppose you have any tips on getting it out?

My next step is to just take the stem etc off and drop the forks out to then see if I can tip it out. 🤦🏼‍♂️😂
Wow, not sure how you can retrieve the Spin Block bits. Sorry I can't assist.
 
new wild owner here. So I disassembled the headset - what a pain - and wired up the Bosch display, you need to unplug the little control module in the bar, then pass that lead up through the left rubber plug, plug, to the display, then pass back the small lead that comes in the kit back down and plug it in, making sure there is enough slack that you can turn the handlebars fully left and right without pulling anything out.
So, questions: is there any way to buy just a 3-hole rubber plug, or rubber plug set, without buying a whole 40 euro kit linked above? thanks.
Second question, I tightened the two bolts on the head and the one top bolt to 5nm but when coming off a small drop the bar rotated vs the front wheel. Should I torque all three down more equally or do the two clamp bolts do more grip work?
 
Hey, loving my M10 Wild, just took a very small tumble on it today in some loose wood chip stuff and it did this...

Stem had slightly gone to the left, all bolts torqued to the required Nm too if that helps.

Any ideas/thoughts?

It's in two pieces by the way, I just had to put it back together after straightening the bars so I could ride back to the truck.

View attachment 123479
Just logged back in after several weeks and seen this. Exact same thing happened on my bike after a very slow 'over the bars' a few weeks back.

Couldnt believe how easily that part broke tbh. Fortunately I had the universal stem kit ready to replace the broken part and have went down the standard stem and spacer route like several others.

My only issue when removing the knockblock was that the top of my fork crowns were hitting the downtube when fully rotating the bars (anyone else have this). I had to buy a crown race spacer to drop the forks a tad in order to provide clearance which has slackened the head angle by 0.5 degrees.
😂

PXL_20230829_133952534.jpg PXL_20230829_134423020.jpg
 
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Just logged back in after several weeks and seen this. Exact same thing happened on my bike after a very slow 'over the bars' a few weeks back.

Couldnt believe how easily that part broke tbh. Fortunately I had the universal stem kit ready to replace the broken part and have went down the standard stem and spacer route like several others.

My only issue when removing the knockblock was that the top of my fork crowns were hitting the downtube when fully rotating the bars (anyone else have this). I had to buy a crown race spacer to drop the forks a tad in order to provide clearance which has slackened the head angle by 0.5 degrees.
😂

View attachment 124313 View attachment 124314
Nice, it's such a pain in the arse and it's the only thing I truly dislike with the bike!

Do you happen to have any close ups of the race spacer?

Thanks.
 
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