2019 Turbo Levo Owners Thread

Decca said:
Yes - call him. 01287 610735.

They are my local dealer, just a mile away, so I am lucky in that regard. When I popped in for mine, it was the fifth one he'd made that morning!
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Talked to Antony - really great guy!! - he's gonna send me one one of these things to Germany. You're really lucky to have such cool dealers in the UK (y):D
 
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Stumpy said:
see post #747 second paragraph
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Hi Stumpy,

Thanks for your reply!

I checked the Rider Care post again but it doesn't mention if the hole is required to stay open for ventilation and if that is the reason why they choose for filter foam instead of blocking the hole completely. I really like the Bikescence solution but I am wondering if this could not lead into other unforeseen issues.

P.S. Maybe I am reading the Rider Care post in a different way as I am not a native english speaker.
 
Specialized Maastricht said:
Hi Stumpy,

Thanks for your reply!

I checked the Rider Care post again but it doesn't mention if the hole is required to stay open for ventilation and if that is the reason why they choose for filter foam instead of blocking the hole completely. I really like the Bikescence solution but I am wondering if this could not lead into other unforeseen issues.

P.S. Maybe I am reading the Rider Care post in a different way as I am not a native english speaker.
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No you’re right ? being a native English speaker I read it wrong ???
 
Stumpy said:
No you’re right ? being a native English speaker I read it wrong ???
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No problem, happy to understand that I did pay enough attention during the english lectures at school. ;-)

Maybe @Specialized Rider Care can comment the Bikescene solution as well? Can we just close the hole completely without the risk the motor starts overheating?
 
Kiwi in Wales said:
Disagree sorry.... #1,034 is the best solution not #1,042. The foam option from Specialized is okayish and good for a temp fix but #1,034 gets my vote (y). Please take note @Specialized Rider Care.
Post #1,042 will definately stop some of the crap but not All of it.
When the rear shock is at half or full compression the swing arm raises which exposes the hole.

@Indigo have a look at the photo below and you will see what I mean. The photo is with the rear shock at full compression and the rear wheel removed. As you can see, it is a BIG hole. Debris from the spinning rear wheel is still going to find its way in if you go with the #1,042 solution.

View attachment 7552
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I think you're right, debris will still get in that BIG hole.

My thinking - Debris thrown off by centrifugal force leaves tangential to the edge of the tyre. Looking at the bike side on, that big hole appears to be shielded by the chainstay bridge. But any debris that collects there could easily end up in the big hole anyway.

Fig 9.7 of manual shows big hole very clearly so it has to be there for a reason. Impossible for engineers to not notice it; or not consider water and dirt runoff. Therefore, some ventilation is required.

Post #1,009 shows the chainstay bridge from many angles. I think what is needed is a rubber membrane joining seat tube with chainstay bridge to form a roof over the big hole. This would keep the hole open for airflow and guide debris from above to exit over top and down rear side of chainstay bridge. Then have a small mudguard (or likewise) projecting down from rear face of chainstay bridge to form an exit shoot. It wouldn't need to project much, just enough to form a lip to stop water running under the chainstay bridge. @Specialized Rider Care
 
Indigo said:
I think you're right, debris will still get in that BIG hole.

My thinking - Debris thrown off by centrifugal force leaves tangential to the edge of the tyre. Looking at the bike side on, that big hole appears to be shielded by the chainstay bridge. But any debris that collects there could easily end up in the big hole anyway.

Fig 9.7 of manual shows big hole very clearly so it has to be there for a reason. Impossible for engineers to not notice it; or not consider water and dirt runoff. Therefore, some ventilation is required.

Post #1,009 shows the chainstay bridge from many angles. I think what is needed is a rubber membrane joining seat tube with chainstay bridge to form a roof over the big hole. This would keep the hole open for airflow and guide debris from above to exit over top and down rear side of chainstay bridge. Then have a small mudguard (or likewise) projecting down from rear face of chainstay bridge to form an exit shoot. It wouldn't need to project much, just enough to form a lip to stop water running under the chainstay bridge. @Specialized Rider Care
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From my perspective, if the big hole is indeed designed for venting purposes, the big hole will not provide much airflow if any at all. The only other entrance for flow of air, is the drain hole at the bottom and from an air flow perspective it will not provide much if any airflow at all. Furthermore, if you plug the hole as directed from Specialized, it will even hamper flow more. If you want to achieve a "funnel" effect there should have been some sort of air intake to the frame in front of the motor.

Karsten
 
khorn said:
From my perspective, if the big hole is indeed designed for venting purposes, the big hole will not provide much airflow if any at all. The only other entrance for flow of air, is the drain hole at the bottom and from an air flow perspective it will not provide much if any airflow at all. Furthermore, if you plug the hole as directed from Specialized, it will even hamper flow more. If you want to achieve a "funnel" effect there should have been some sort of air intake to the frame in front of the motor.

Karsten
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This i been telling few pages back. Without the intake, to get the fresh air in, this exit hole is more or less useless, to get the job done properly.
Haibike have this intake on the front, that is the correct design and management of the air flow to cool the battery and engine.
Haibike-XDURO-AllMtn-10.0-TQ-Systems-News-eMTB-eBike-29-von-33-810x540.jpg


And it look cool at the same time...
 
Thomas said:
Haibike have this intake on the front, that is the correct design and management of the air flow to cool the battery and engine.
Haibike-XDURO-AllMtn-10.0-TQ-Systems-News-eMTB-eBike-29-von-33-810x540.jpg


And it look cool at the same time...
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Wow! I can't even believe that's real. I can only assume th cable hanging down is atached to the free vacuum cleaner it comes with Or does it come with a lifetime supply of air filters?
 
Unless there is a fan to suck air into those intakes, I think they're more for show than anything. Or maybe you need to ride at 100kmh? At best, air would flow passively up from a vent at the bottom, if they have one, and out the top. The best way to cool something like a motor or battery would be to have it exposed, or attached to a big chunk of metal, like an aluminum bike frame to act as a radiator.
 
Newb here from California... appreciate all the info being shared. I'm going to be purchasing a 2019 turbo levo comp. I've followed the various solutions regarding the debris ingress issue... several of which seem workable. I have a question: the Bikescene solution mentioned in msg #1009 pg 34, and the mudguard solution mentioned in msg #1042 pg 35, both require some form of adhesive to attach to the motor casing. In msg # 747 from Specialized Rider Care, in the second paragraph, it says, "just be aware that the motor will get hot (up to 95°C) and for that reason you should avoid anything domestic or adhesive." Will the motor casing get too hot for either of the adhesives used to solve the issue? tia
 
I'd be amazed if the body of the frame around the motor got to 95°C ! What's the worst that could happen - the trim tape could come unstuck? I've just bought a complete roll of the stuff for £4!
 
Decca said:
I'd be amazed if the body of the frame around the motor got to 95°C ! What's the worst that could happen - the trim tape could come unstuck? I've just bought a complete roll of the stuff for £4!
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Rode tech trails with this today. Maybe just put a piece of sponge in the bottom hole? This is a few pieces of duck tape. What’s your thoughts? Need to take a pit crew of specialized mechanics with sponges, extra motors, command posts, etc. along for the ride.

776FCE4B-DCA6-4670-837C-0327BBAFBD7C.jpeg


BB63EF6C-77E9-43DC-8E0B-C94DE76AB274.jpeg
 
The chain guard kept moving and rubbing on the chain today, it’s attached to the motor mount screw, had to take screw off and reposition but worked.
 
Scoobaru said:
It looks like you have fitted your bike with a sanitary pad ! That time of the month buddy ?
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That’s just the 2.0 version, the 2.1 will be using either black duct tape or might just put a sticker on this mini fender.. works good as long as the tape don’t mess up the frame. The frame should be able to accommodate tape or stickers.The clearance for the stock butcher rear tire is about 1/2 mm. They should have made the small piece of frame that is near the tire in a bridge shape instead to offer more clearance. Might have to tape a piece of sponge over the drain hole underneath but not sure if that’s necessary, like the other poster said. Your thoughts on the drain hole underneath?
 
Will Ridealpine said:
That’s just the 2.0 version, the 2.1 will be using either black duct tape or might just put a sticker on this mini fender.. works good as long as the tape don’t mess up the frame. The frame should be able to accommodate tape or stickers.The clearance for the stock butcher rear tire is about 1/2 mm. They should have made the small piece of frame that is near the tire in a bridge shape instead to offer more clearance. Might have to tape a piece of sponge over the drain hole underneath but not sure if that’s necessary, like the other poster said. Your thoughts on the drain hole underneath?
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MattyB said:
Blimey, have not popped in on this thread for a few weeks; the atmosphere has certainly changed! :eek: TBH I can’t say I am surprised; those cloying, critique free infomercials that accompanied the launch were always likely to become an embarrassment when real customers started receiving such a complex, new from the ground up bike. I don’t think I’ve ever bought a perfect product, but I’ve definitely never bought one that farts perfume like the Levo was supposed to...;):ROFLMAO:

I am sure that in the end the 2019 Levo will become great, maybe even a landmark product, but it is pretty clear that right now it’s a beta. Perhaps that is not surprising when you see how quickly ebikes are evolving and how fierce the competition is. Factor in the premium pricing though and I can see why so many buyers are unhappy with noisy motors, flaky paint and poorly designed motor casings. Specialized now have to take this on the chin, accept the issues and get on with fixing them for all buyers otherwise potential and current owners are going to be very reticent about buying from Spec in future.
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The reason for buying this bike over the competition is that the Brose motors are Supposed to be quiter not twice as loud with many trips to the repair shop, is this what the extra premium is for? Could have got a trek powerfly for 2k cheaper, with a dropper seat post that works instead of a junkster command post that is far worse than its predecessor. The command post drops about an inch when you raise it to the top, that’s just for starts. The bike geo and handeling decents is epic though. The seat post is way off the margin.
 
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Specialized Maastricht said:
No problem, happy to understand that I did pay enough attention during the english lectures at school. ;-)

Maybe @Specialized Rider Care can comment the Bikescene solution as well? Can we just close the hole completely without the risk the motor starts overheating?
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There is no risk of over-heating by closing the gap here. The motor will automatically de-rate itself if it reaches a certain temperature, allowing it to cool naturally - it's part of the Brose design so you cannot damage it like this.

Please note that as others have commented there is a lot of movement of the rear triangle and depending on the position of the dropper post, flip-chip etc it is very difficult to put a rigid cover over this gap. Something rubber or flexible that blocks the gap is fine, there is no risk to the bike or your warranty by doing this (unless it gets physically caught thus affecting the working of the rear triangle/shock, but I'd hope that is obvious).
 
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