Turbo Levo Chainring Replacement

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AndyActual

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Anyone replaced the stock chainring with a 36t or 38t? If so what chainring did you get and how is it performing?

I know the stock 32t Praxis chainring is steel and I can only see alloy chainrings available for sale, also I have read you have to remove the chain guide in order to run a 38t chainring, which obviously could be problematic.

Any guidance much appreciated.
 
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Just done my first ride out with the stock ring and found I was out pedalling so think I'll move up to 34T, as you have found I can only source Alloy ones, also the stock steel one has threaded inserts so you'll need chainring bolts which also means the spider has to be removed ! The chain guide is slotted which will allow some tolerance on different sizes.
 
I think sram make steel chainrings
You have remove the spider change rings, at least i couldnt get the ring off without removing the spider
 
Fitted a Blackspire Snaggletooth 36t chainring today, no need to remove the crank and spider, only the drive side pedal. A bit of a fiddle fitting the bolts, a found rolled up bit of sticky tape helps to hold the ‘nut’ in position underneath the crank spider when putting in the bolts. I’ll update later after a few rides.
09258929-F2B6-4BDE-BFCB-7F7F02292CEE.jpeg
 
Nice work @AndyActual. So you simply remove the pedal, then chainring bolts to take off the existing Praxis ring then pop the new one on? That sounds much simpler than I expected!
 
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Chainring bolts are allen key fitting to the front and the chainring bolts that fit to the inside (the motor casing side) normally are slotted (flat screwdriver). There is a tool for holding them whilst being tightened but it's probably near impossible to get it in. Friction alone normally holds them though when doing them up.
Did you keep the same chain length Andy ?
 
Out pedalled again today so 36T Chainring ordered, opted to go with Praxis as it has the wave technology, so will see how we go..
LINKY

praxis-works-mtb-1x-104bcd-wave-tech-chainring-p16419-60388_medium.jpg
 
As an update, so glad I went with a bigger ring, I am spending much more time in the middle range of gears now, only using the lowest gears for transits along fire roads between trails. At the other end of the range, still not really using the highest gear for anything but the steepest climbs. I haven’t changed the chain, it’s still got the original on it, as I am not using the highest gear very often I don’t see the point and I thought it was a little slack with the 32t ring out the shop. It is going back in for its free service and a tubeless setup so will get the shops opinion.

Reference your earlier post, you don’t need a special tool to hold the bolt nut, just use a small flat screwdriver to hold the nut in place from the side whilst you tighten the bolt. It is obvious when you start working in the area, but there is a bit more room to access behind the chainring between 7-8 o’clock position, where the motor housing is recessed slightly more. In this position you can put in the bolts, stuck to a bit of tape if you have fat fingers like me, and get a screwdriver in to one of the groves on the back of the bolt to hold it in place to tighten it up.

Just not sure about those bolts now, I thought they were going to match frame colour, but they are more like purple!
 
Noticed that position myself today Andy where the motor casing is recessed, looking forward to the ring arriving now ..
 
Hi Mike, did you receive/imstall the new chainring? Im interested to hear your experience. Still out pedalled with the 36T chainring? I see some shops also sell a 38T ring, would that be a better fit or should I get the 36T. Did you have any issues installing it or with the chain stay at the top?
 
He PeeBee
Have the chainring nowl, just need to get it done!! I was waiting to see how it was on most of the usual rides I do but I'm constantly out pedaling on the tarmac.
I'll document it when I do it which hopefully will be imminent!
 
AndyActual said:
As an update, so glad I went with a bigger ring, I am spending much more time in the middle range of gears now, only using the lowest gears for transits along fire roads between trails. At the other end of the range, still not really using the highest gear for anything but the steepest climbs. I haven’t changed the chain, it’s still got the original on it, as I am not using the highest gear very often I don’t see the point and I thought it was a little slack with the 32t ring out the shop. It is going back in for its free service and a tubeless setup so will get the shops opinion.

Reference your earlier post, you don’t need a special tool to hold the bolt nut, just use a small flat screwdriver to hold the nut in place from the side whilst you tighten the bolt. It is obvious when you start working in the area, but there is a bit more room to access behind the chainring between 7-8 o’clock position, where the motor housing is recessed slightly more. In this position you can put in the bolts, stuck to a bit of tape if you have fat fingers like me, and get a screwdriver in to one of the groves on the back of the bolt to hold it in place to tighten it up.

Just not sure about those bolts now, I thought they were going to match frame colour, but they are more like purple!
Click to expand...

^^^^^
This.
I put a 36 on my Med Levo too and this was my experience also.
Love the new "gears".
My buddy tried to put a 36 on his XL Knenevo though but there wasn't enough room between the chainstay
FYI
 
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Did you guys lengthen the chain much, going to the 36T chainring?
 
As someone who is rather new to upgrading or tweaking bikes, can someone explain on the levo if it has a 30t or 32t stock? I was looking to buy a raceface chain ring as i wanted to add some tasteful things to this bike as i love it so much. I used to be a guy who buys the bike stock and then ride it and sell etc. Never stepped into the realm of modifications until the levo came along!

But i did notice you said you are shifting less as your staying in the midrange? I noticed that with this bike or there is a part someone had mentioned on another forum that was missing on the levo so if you are not completely stopped while pedaling the chain can fall off? Not sure if that is called the guide or not. But if for example you are going through less gears would this make my levo experience more enjoyable if i upgraded to a 34t or 36t chain ring?

Thanks in advance
 
32T Stock,
I've taken a few pictures and Im just waiting for new chainring bolts to arrive as the ones I already had were too long..
I'll when they arrive guys :)
 
Mike Smith said:
32T Stock,
I've taken a few pictures and Im just waiting for new chainring bolts to arrive as the ones I already had were too long..
I'll when they arrive guys :)
Click to expand...

So would you recommend keeping the original 32T or would you recommend trying out a 34T or even 36T?
 
I opted for the 36t as well. Seems pretty good so far (50kms). I used the stock bolts but I had to get some chainring nuts from my lbs. I found out that the 11mm nuts are to long so I had to file them down to fit properly. I bought the chainring from North Shore Billet in Whistler B.C. Locally grown! ?

IMG_20180716_074837.jpg
 
Had the first ride out today after swapping out the chainring to a 36T, still out pedaling on the flat but using more of the gears on the climbs.. so definitely worth doing :)
Next a 38T ???
 
the levo supports only 36T, i asked the helpcenter. i have the 36T but wanted to upgrade to 40T ?. there is a 40T solution for the turbo vado, but this does not fit on levo. perhaps the other way is, to replace the cassette with e-thirteen TRS+ 9-46 (11x)
 
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