Turbo Levo Chainring Replacement

2 less teeth at the rear results in more speed than 2 more teeth at the front. At 80rpm its 44km/h to 39km/h. means, changing the cassette has more speed effect, but is more expensive.
@Mike Smith 10-36 is faster than 11-38.

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This is interesting ....
"According to SRAM, the reason the company opted not to go smaller than a 10t cog was due to a shuddering sensation that occurs when pedaling such a small cog under load. As cog size decreases, the rotation of the links on a chain increases exponentially, which causes what SRAM’s engineers dubbed the “polygon effect” — a feeling that the chain is going from slack to taut, resulting from variations in speed as the chain transitions from one tooth on the cog to the next. " :eek:
 
Mike Smith said:
This is interesting ....
"According to SRAM, the reason the company opted not to go smaller than a 10t cog was due to a shuddering sensation that occurs when pedaling such a small cog under load. As cog size decreases, the rotation of the links on a chain increases exponentially, which causes what SRAM’s engineers dubbed the “polygon effect” — a feeling that the chain is going from slack to taut, resulting from variations in speed as the chain transitions from one tooth on the cog to the next. " :eek:
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Interesting! Thanks for the info!
 
Are any of these 36T replacement chainrings made from steel? I'm wanting to go for a really strong chainring - I'd prefer a steel one if possible, but I'm having a fair bit of trouble finding one to suit. There is a Surly 104 BCD option, but apparently it's best suited for single speeds?
 
Tori said:
Are any of these 36T replacement chainrings made from steel? I'm wanting to go for a really strong chainring - I'd prefer a steel one if possible, but I'm having a fair bit of trouble finding one to suit. There is a Surly 104 BCD option, but apparently it's best suited for single speeds?
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Specialized specifically recommend Hope chainrings, but honestly i think any quality single/DH ring will do. Just keep an eye on your chain stretch, buy a measuring tool, if you clean and change your chain regularly, you'll never wear out your sprockets :)
 
DEADMEAT said:
Specialized specifically recommend Hope chainrings, but honestly i think any quality single/DH ring will do. Just keep an eye on your chain stretch, buy a measuring tool, if you clean and change your chain regularly, you'll never wear out your sprockets :)
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Ah well, considering I can't find a good steel chainring, and yep - you're right - I'm onto my chain checking and I'm replacing somewhere in between 0.75 and 0.5 stretch, I should be OK with an alloy chainring.

I'm considering a Wolf Tooth 36T Elliptical : Wolf Tooth 104 BCD Elliptical Drop-Stop Chainring I wonder if running an elliptcial will be nice with an EMTB?
 
AndyActual said:
Fitted a Blackspire Snaggletooth 36t chainring today, no need to remove the crank and spider, only the drive side pedal. A bit of a fiddle fitting the bolts, a found rolled up bit of sticky tape helps to hold the ‘nut’ in position underneath the crank spider when putting in the bolts. I’ll update later after a few rides.View attachment 1894
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Hey Andy, I bought the same chain ring. I was wondering how the wear on the aluminium is working out for you. I have done about 300 kliks so far and have really just taken the color off the teeth.
 
AndyActual said:
Fitted a Blackspire Snaggletooth 36t chainring today, no need to remove the crank and spider, only the drive side pedal. A bit of a fiddle fitting the bolts, a found rolled up bit of sticky tape helps to hold the ‘nut’ in position underneath the crank spider when putting in the bolts. I’ll update later after a few rides.
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I think it’s easier just to remove crank, one bolt? No hassle fitting a new bolts, no tape.
 
AndyActual said:
Fitted a Blackspire Snaggletooth 36t chainring today, no need to remove the crank and spider, only the drive side pedal. A bit of a fiddle fitting the bolts, a found rolled up bit of sticky tape helps to hold the ‘nut’ in position underneath the crank spider when putting in the bolts. I’ll update later after a few rides.View attachment 1894
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Hi Andy,

I'm also considering placement of a 36T (Praxis)
But shop says they called Specialized and they said that the motor has been tuned for a 32T and they do not recommend replacing it with a 36T. Shop also said that battery will be empty faster when riding on the smallest rear cog of the 36T.
Are you still pleased with the 36T ? Is the brose still behaving the same and is 'character" of the bike still the same ? Any disadvantages ?

Kind Regards
 
I did the same replacement and for me the 36T feels much better. Previously I was too often in the smallest 2 rear cogs. Now it's a bit more distributed across all 10 gears.

Using 36T would increase speed and thereby resistance which would lead to the battery draining faster. But in practice I haven't noticed any difference.
 
ideally Praxis steel as OEM but unfortunately they only do the stock 32T, I went down the Praxis line though in Alloy.
 
Next modification for me, was running a 34t on my trail bike so a 32t just isn't cutting it. Is there any funny fitments or BCD on the chain ring for fitment to a Levo?
 
Cheers for that.

I've never had a chain guide on a bike before, not needed to with a clutch mech and narrow wide chain ring.

I quite fancy the rental ultralight which isn't narrow wide, do you think chain retention with just a guide would be enough?
 
Mike Smith said:
Just done my first ride out with the stock ring and found I was out pedalling so think I'll move up to 34T, as you have found I can only source Alloy ones, also the stock steel one has threaded inserts so you'll need chainring bolts which also means the spider has to be removed ! The chain guide is slotted which will allow some tolerance on different sizes.
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How do you get the spider off? i have used bb key tool to remove the locking nut but cant seem to release the spider...??
 
You will need a crank puller.
a simple 3 1/2 or 4 inch one will do .
Can get them at Harbor freight or Amazon cheap .
 
I noticed today that all 4 chain ring bolts were loose.

What's the trick for tightening them up as you can't get a screwdriver in the back to hold the bolt?
 
I think the chainring is threaded
 
Rob Hancill said:
Nice work @AndyActual. So you simply remove the pedal, then chainring bolts to take off the existing Praxis ring then pop the new one on? That sounds much simpler than I expected!
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Hi Rob, I see in your latest video about the Levo you have a 36T chainwheel fitted, how do you find this? I have just put some shorter 150 mm Miranda Kappa 0 cranks on but not been out yet, so will report back on those. What length cranks are you now using on your Levo?
 
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