Orangie
Active member
Gonna try the meg neg on my super deluxe On the rail 7. Will report
Who?I was also told from a very well known suspension tuner that the meg neg is awesome.
orangie thanks for the offer. I’m on the west side, near Monterey CA. I like how you are going after the rear shock on the Rail. I’m coming up with some money to buy an eMTB and the Rail 9.7 seems to hit the “value spot” if there is such a thing. If the rear shock wants replaced on all models there is no reason the buy a higher model. I think on the ebikes the Yari and Lyric fork is the same chassis, different damper. But you don’t get the RC2.1 damper until the $12,000 bike. So the $6500 bike with a $330 damper equalizes the fork. Sell us the frameset already Trek!The super fits the xl frame well. I was told that the reservoir will dent the frame on a medium so idk about the large. I was also told from a very well known suspension tuner that the meg neg is awesome. I think the air can will be close but I’m almost positive it will clear the seat tube. Meg neg on a deluxe will surely work on large but not sure about the super If you were near Pittsburgh pa you are welcome to come try it.!!!
orangie thanks for the offer. I’m on the west side, near Monterey CA. I like how you are going after the rear shock on the Rail. I’m coming up with some money to buy an eMTB and the Rail 9.7 seems to hit the “value spot” if there is such a thing. If the rear shock wants replaced on all models there is no reason the buy a higher model. I think on the ebikes the Yari and Lyric fork is the same chassis, different damper. But you don’t get the RC2.1 damper until the $12,000 bike. So the $6500 bike with a $330 damper equalizes the fork. Sell us the frameset already Trek!
Thanks for the report. My understanding of shifting is that shifting multiple cogs at one time under load is when chains break most often, hence one gear at a time for the eMTB chain line with Sram. But I think with Shimano, you have the option to shift multiple gears at one time with the XT shifter, but not the SLX, FYI. What’s cool about that is how well hyper glide must work for shimano to certify their 12 speed for emtb use with the ability to shift multiple gears under electric assist. I’ve been on Sram for a while and while it’s nice at the XO1 lever, the lower stuff is pretty basic, not refined. I asked about the dropper because I wonder whats possible. I started with a 125mm dropper, went to 150mm, then 160mm. My last bike had a 175mm dropper. It’s so chill. Like a low rider. Flat feet chillin on the bike. You have a solid bike. I’m west coast so winter doesn’t slow us down much. I hope spring gets there soon enough for you. Can I ask where you found a charger RC damper (with high and low speed compression)?No. One gear at a time. That’s a non issue for me. Dropper is a 130 I believe. Could be a little longer ,but I’m not one for a high seat . Lever was crap so a put on a ztto lever. It’s nice. Tires seem good, Will wear them out , then decide on replacements Did the 108 point hub upgrade. 3 more springs and pawls. Sounds awesome. I think that’s it
I have SLX12 speed on yt decoy and can shift multiple gears up and down without issue.Thanks for the report. My understanding of shifting is that shifting multiple cogs at one time under load is when chains break most often, hence one gear at a time for the eMTB chain line with Sram. But I think with Shimano, you have the option to shift multiple gears at one time with the XT shifter, but not the SLX, FYI. What’s cool about that is how well hyper glide must work for shimano to certify their 12 speed for emtb use with the ability to shift multiple gears under electric assist. I’ve been on Sram for a while and while it’s nice at the XO1 lever, the lower stuff is pretty basic, not refined. I asked about the dropper because I wonder whats possible. I started with a 125mm dropper, went to 150mm, then 160mm. My last bike had a 175mm dropper. It’s so chill. Like a low rider. Flat feet chillin on the bike. You have a solid bike. I’m west coast so winter doesn’t slow us down much. I hope spring gets there soon enough for you. Can I ask where you found a charger RC damper (with high and low speed compression)?
Yes and no.My understanding of shifting is that shifting multiple cogs at one time under load is when chains break most often, hence one gear at a time for the eMTB
Sweet. I thought I read somewhere that only XT and XTR did that. SLX is going to be dope for easy cash. Thanks for sharing that.I have SLX12 speed on yt decoy and can shift multiple gears up and down without issue.
I only have a few test rides on a Levo and a Rail. And not for very long. So I don’t have a feel for the power delivery with emtbs. Seems like sometimes there a little power applied by the motor after you stop pedaling. Maybe not. I completely agree that a deft shifting technique will prevent chain breaks and and reduce wear. Having shifted with Sram GX Eagle for a while it doesn’t matter what you do, it just shifts industrial. Not a pleasure to shift, only business. XO1 on the other hand is better, but like you said you gotta time the shifts. If this Shimano is so good (like I have read and you indicate as well) then maybe I can just get on the gas whenever I want and drift and green and have more fun? I think it’s rad when the shifting is dialed and the whole MTB experience comes together perfectly. But how many times has the trail changed up and you get a bad shift and forward motion comes to a halt. Because B tension. Or bent derailleur hanger. Or the shift in the wrong part of the pedal stroke. What if we could shift whenever we wanted and it just worked like a boss? Like a Porsche with a PDK or a Ferrari with paddles on the wheel? On the money, full boil, shredding the trail. And not a missed shift. Like A boss.Yes and no.
Your chain, or more precisely the join between its pins and plates is under most stress when being twisted. and in order to change gear at all with a derailleur gearing system the chain has to twist. So stop trying to do it under load. Ease off your pedalling force until you hear/feel the motor assistance drop off before you shift gear. Learn to do this properly and consistently and repeat it every time and you can shift through multiple gears with far less stress to the chain than some muppet blindly shifting under load one gear at a time with their disability aid single click shifter. You'll get far greater drivetrain life as well by shifting properly.
Just because Shimano state their new 12 speed drivetrain shifts better under load (and it does). that still doesn't mean it's a great idea to intentionally do so.
Because the chain has far less distance to move during a gear shift, properly close ratio shimano road cassettes with only one tooth jumps between sprockets and mid range components still shift way better/smoother and more consistently than any of the newest super wide range mtb cassettes do no matter how much you spend on them (ie. 12spd XO, or XTR).
Genuinely never!But how many times has the trail changed up and you get a bad shift and forward motion comes to a halt. Because B tension. Or bent derailleur hanger. Or the shift in the wrong part of the pedal stroke.
No. most motors have a little over run. you very quickly learn its timing, how it behaves and how best to use it to your advantage in both shifting sympathy/precision and riding in general.Seems like sometimes there a little power applied by the motor after you stop pedaling. Maybe not.
I'd suggest either giving up on that dream for a while and simply taking the time to learn how best to operate a switch/lever controlled derrailleur or ponying up and spend the money on an expensive internal gearing system to retro fit to your emtbWhat if we could shift whenever we wanted and it just worked like a boss? Like a Porsche with a PDK or a Ferrari with paddles on the wheel? On the money, full boil, shredding the trail. And not a missed shift. Like A boss.
Orangie that’s fully flat brim meg neg. you’ve got your thread back. Sorry I got carried away with other Rail talk. Talk meg neg.
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