My gear cable re-routing
The first image shows my initial attempts to route the gear cable though the same opening as the brake hose.
I attempted this twice, however the space in the frame behind that silver motor housing bracket was too restricted.
I got the outer cable in, and looked good, but there must be too much of a pinch, as the inner cable would not pass this point.
I was also not happy with both cable and brake hose passing through the same small hole. It forced the hose against the edge of the hole despite my best endeavours to retain the rubber grommet. Not happy that the suspension movement would probably cause chaffing of the brake hose against the hole in the frame.
Others have had success doing this routing, but on my frame (Small) it is too restrictive.
Not happy look at alternative routing.
So went for the alternative routing (as done by Whybro's LBS) of routing through a second notch in the motor cover.
Very easy.
I cut a comfortable notch approx 20mm lower than the speed sensor position, using a Dremel to do a neat job, but a Stanley knife and hacksaw would suffice.There appears plenty of space in there, only time will tell if it moves and compromises the cables which it passes.
With both these options we have the compromise that the gear cable has to cross the swingarm from non-drive side to drive-side.
Not helped by having to secure the cable to the cross brace at the pivot point. These inevitable tight radii definitely compromise the shift performance, it works, but definitely more resistance on the shifter. Probably the reason Whyte routed the original the way they did.
The end result looks clean and neat
Notes:
Only time will tell if the shift performance is compromised. It seems okay so far.
If it does prove problematic I will either revert to original, or wait till cassette wears out and upgrade to AXS.
Tips.
Clean the bike before you start, makes the job easier, and clean up inside while all the covers are off.
When you remove the original outer, leave the inner cable in place to use as a guide to route the new outer though the swing arm and other twiddley bits. The new outer cable went through swing arm a treat.
If you are doing the rerouting through the brake hose hole, you do not need to remove the crank or pedal as the motor cover can be manipulated over the crank to give room. But on the motor cover solution you need to remove the crank, which is a 2 minute job.
I imagined battery removal and replacement would be straightforward. It isn't, it would be a right royal PITA to do on the trail, and the battery is big and heavy, I was toying with buying a second battery to do 80 mile day rides. I don't think it will be comfortable.
Be slow and meticulous and don't drink too much beer before or during.
And goes without saying, you fiddle with your bike at your own risk, if you are not confident, don't do it.
UPDATE : Shift performance too compromised, due to tight radii of this solution.
See update 10/08/20
