Whyte e-mtb

If they supplied valves I'd would have thought the rims would already be taped.
 
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What sag are you guys running on your e150? I've got the rs and followed the trailhead app for the fork and when setup I was running 30% front and rear and found it too soft - I'm now running front and rear at 25% and feels better - any setup tips?
 
What sag are you guys running on your e150? I've got the rs and followed the trailhead app for the fork and when setup I was running 30% front and rear and found it too soft - I'm now running front and rear at 25% and feels better - any setup tips?
I found the same. Also getting the rebound dialled in perfectly makes a huge difference on the trail.
Anyone suffer with excessive brake dive on the Yari?
 
Chainring changes...

I'd like to get a larger chain ring (e150RS) as the gearing is a little too low. Anyone experienced this? Would go for 2 or 4 more teeth, would I need to lengthen the chain?

Cheers
 
I agree, a 36t would be ideal, do you think it would mess up the anti tampering sensors? I'm trying to work it out in my head but I've failed massively ?
Don't you need a special Bosch tool to remove the chainring as well?
 
I agree, a 36t would be ideal, do you think it would mess up the anti tampering sensors? I'm trying to work it out in my head but I've failed massively ?
Don't you need a special Bosch tool to remove the chainring as well?

Ah, this is the sort of thing I was wondering. I don't think there would be probs with the sensor though
 
Changing the chainring shouldn’t have any effect on the anti-tampering software. You will need a special tool to undo the (left hand threaded) lock ring.
 
Chainring changes...

I'd like to get a larger chain ring (e150RS) as the gearing is a little too low. Anyone experienced this? Would go for 2 or 4 more teeth, would I need to lengthen the chain?

Cheers
Not really. If I'm riding on the road there isnt enough top end. But then the motor has cut out by this point and the tyre resistance makes it file like I'm riding through mud anyway. I can quite happily ride at 20mph on flat road.
Off road I rarely get to this speed (unless going downhill, but then Ive not found a reason to pedal faster if Im already going bloody fast), my average speed tends to be around 14-15mph, which is perfectly suitable for this gearing.

I would imagine a bigger crank ring would put more pressure on the motor?? (wearing it out quicker) and also make you hit the motor limit faster (unless you have it chipped of course).
 
I would imagine a bigger crank ring would put more pressure on the motor?? (wearing it out quicker) and also make you hit the motor limit faster (unless you have it chipped of course).
I'm not sure it'll put any extra 'pressure' on the motor (if standard) it'll just be taller gearing. The speed measurement is off the rear wheel, so will disengage the motor at the same road speed. Not extra work by the motor, just a higher achievable speed whilst pedalling in top gear.
 
The speed measurement is off the rear wheel, so will disengage the motor at the same road speed. Not extra work by the motor, just a higher achievable speed whilst pedaling in top gear.

Understand that, but I still cant work out why anyone would want bigger chain rings on this bike unless they are continually riding flat paths / commuting (in which case they have the wrong bike!). Downhill momentum on these machines gets me up to 30mph fairly easily and technical trails (such as Cannock / Dark Peaks) tend to be around the 15mph average which is achievable with the existing setup very easily.
 
Understand that, but I still cant work out why anyone would want bigger chain rings on this bike unless they are continually riding flat paths / commuting (in which case they have the wrong bike!). Downhill momentum on these machines gets me up to 30mph fairly easily and technical trails (such as Cannock / Dark Peaks) tend to be around the 15mph average which is achievable with the existing setup very easily.

Me neither.
Unless they're doing regular roadwork between off road sections. I don't know.
When out riding some trails, my riding pal asked about de-restricting, I asked him 'How fast do you want to hit the tree?'
For trails we're going fast enough with current motor/gearing.
 
I use a 36t because I prefer the spread of main gears that I tend to use with it to the 34, essentially it allows me to move down accelerate or move up into a climbing gear with less shifts through the cassette.

I prefer the day to day gearing with a 36 to a 34, especially because I never use the biggest gears.
 
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Has anybody changed the chainring with a spider mount to take standard 104 chainrings? If so what one did you use, I bought one but it’s not off set enough so doesn’t fit on.

Thanks
 
Did the 160mm Yari spring upgrade earlier, seemed pretty simple enough to do, only one minor fuck up where I managed to squirt fork oil all over the kitchen from a syringe :whistle:
Now time for a ride to see what she's like :unsure:
 
Its the weight distribution on the Whyte, combined with their OTO geometry that makes it ride so well.

IMO weight distribution and placement is the single most important aspect of EMTB design, get it wrong and it feels like you are shifting dead weigh around, get it right and the added weight works for you rather than against.
I've a e150 rs on order, arrives on Friday , is the suspension good out of the box or does it need me to adjust it? It's my first full suspension bike let alone Ebike , watched some YouTube on how to set suspension up, have you had to make much adjustments to yours or is it good to ride , I'm 85kg by the way
 
With any full suspension bike you will need to set iu up correctly, which of course varies from person to person. I don't have the Whyte but have ridden it, and its very sorted once you have dialled it in.

Hhere is a thread that will help

Suspension set-up guides and info - EMTB Forums
 
With any full suspension bike you will need to set iu up correctly, which of course varies from person to person. I don't have the Whyte but have ridden it, and its very sorted once you have dialled it in.

Hhere is a thread that will help

Suspension set-up guides and info - EMTB Forums
Cheers mate ,only just joined the forum so getting use to how it works
 
Hey folks, newbie and no e bike yet. In dire need of help tho.

Done my best to narrow down the options to:
Levo comp
Whyte 150 rs/180
Propain Ekano 165
YT Decoy

What the hell should I do? How to make a chokes that wont be ”old” in the fall?

Tried the Levo and it rides like the thoughts run, absolutly marvellous. Any of you ridden more of the bikes on the list to make a solid differance?
 
I have a decoy and i really like it. That being said, i want the most durable motor and battery with a good warrantee. Im looking at bikes with the bosch gen 4 with one of their batteries. Looks like they have the least problems, good warrantee and then rebuildable . I havent tried one but they seem to stack up well in low nouse, tourque, intuitiveness and weight and i hear they battery power consumption is efficient along with a 625w option. Whyte looks sweet(good yhread on the forums here), the long stroked coil shock trek rail(recent thread) sounds great. I dont see many cubes bit the cube hybrid 160 looks good. Im still semi undecided but thats the way im leaning atm
 
The only one I haven't ridden is the Propain.

The Levo is a great bike and you'd definitely be happy with one, although with it's current reliability record you'd probably be happier with two or three... ;)
The Whyte e150 didn't really float my boat. Again, it's a great bike, it just wasn't better enough than my Powerfly to want to buy it.
The e180RS on the other hand... oh wow! What a bike. I would have bought one, but the long haired general went a funny colour when she saw the price. :(
The Pro Race Decoy is another fantastic bike, the Base model not so much. The suspension makes a huge difference, even to a numpty like me. I wasn't really sold on the Shimano motor though, no real reason, it just didn't float my boat.
Just to stir the pot a bit, how about a Rail? I love mine.
 
Worth mentioning the Whyte battery isn't designed to be regularly removed, so if you cant charge the bike where you keep it that may be an issue.
 
Hey folks, newbie and no e bike yet. In dire need of help tho.

Done my best to narrow down the options to:
Levo comp
Whyte 150 rs/180
Propain Ekano 165
YT Decoy

What the hell should I do? How to make a chokes that wont be ”old” in the fall?

Tried the Levo and it rides like the thoughts run, absolutly marvellous. Any of you ridden more of the bikes on the list to make a solid differance?

I have a 2019 Levo carbon comp and it’s a great bike and it has never given me a problem but I sometimes find it can be slightly unresponsive on tight techy stuff which I think it may be down to the 29er wheels.
I had a t130rs before this that was a great fun do it all bike so i find Levo can sometime feel a bit boring compared to the t130.

Im thinking of selling the Levo and getting either a E150 OR E180 but like yourself i am undecided in what to go for, there aren’t many reviews for either of the bikes but the ones I have seen give them top marks.

Jason
 
The only one I haven't ridden is the Propain.

The Levo is a great bike and you'd definitely be happy with one, although with it's current reliability record you'd probably be happier with two or three... ;)
The Whyte e150 didn't really float my boat. Again, it's a great bike, it just wasn't better enough than my Powerfly to want to buy it.
The e180RS on the other hand... oh wow! What a bike. I would have bought one, but the long haired general went a funny colour when she saw the price. :(
The Pro Race Decoy is another fantastic bike, the Base model not so much. The suspension makes a huge difference, even to a numpty like me. I wasn't really sold on the Shimano motor though, no real reason, it just didn't float my boat.
Just to stir the pot a bit, how about a Rail? I love mine.

may I ask why you found the E180 better than the E150
 
All the bikes I've demo'd have been ridden on steep, techy off-piste trails (bugger off @Gary :ROFLMAO: ) that are well known to me so I have been able to make direct comparisons that are relevant to the riding I do.

The e180 suited me better for that type of riding, mainly down to the coil shock and extra travel.
 
Im thinking of selling the Levo and getting either a E150 OR E180 but like yourself i am undecided in what to go for, there aren’t many reviews for either of the bikes but the ones I have seen give them top marks.

Hazarding a guess that will stir it up somehow, the margins are very small between these top their bikes that cost north of 5k. It is probably very much down to how that particular bike suits you.

If I could make a wish I would like a coil on the back and 170 on the front with the Levo geo and drivability. Because it is a big dealbreaker how it looks sitting on it, since we do sit on our bikes for quit some time a day.
 
Hazarding a guess that will stir it up somehow, the margins are very small between these top their bikes that cost north of 5k. It is probably very much down to how that particular bike suits you.

If I could make a wish I would like a coil on the back and 170 on the front with the Levo geo and drivability. Because it is a big dealbreaker how it looks sitting on it, since we do sit on our bikes for quit some time a day.

You should check out the Whyte 180 - I cant think of any bike out there out the moment that is more capable, even a Kenevo, if you are after long travel. Whyte have been very clever with how they have placed the weigh around the bike, which is the single biggest thing to get right when trying to design a good handling EMTB. It can steamroll anything, but still manoeuvrable. The 150 is a great bike too, you can tell it was designed in the UK, by guys riding UK trails.

Its the only EMTB I have tried that would make me consider (but only consider ;)) changing my E-Sommett for.
 
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