Possibly, my mate is the suspension expert so I'll ask him when he gets back from his hols.
Whyte e-mtb
- Thread starter TonyW
- Start date
Possibly, my mate is the suspension expert so I'll ask him when he gets back from his hols.
can you post a pic of the routing?
Yep will do when I can tomorrow
Curious why you’ve fitted 160mm forks. Rides so well as is and that front end is unflappable.
Just wanted a bit more travel upfront.
Tribey
Active member
I cannot get on with the SRAM brake levers, I need something with Biting Point adjustablility.
Why did you change to Hope?
That’s my only gripe. The brakes are not as good as ones I have had previously.
Keep in mind that there's no settings standards between manufactures. I find default Eco on a Kenevo to be considerably higher in assistance than default eco on an e8000 (not ridden a bosch), it's part way to e8000 Trail mode. At the same time, it will eat through the battery faster - nothing is free
Tribey
Active member
I've moved the brakes inboard a bit, and had to move the dropper bracket outside of the back brake, and it feels much better, so I'll stick with the SRAMs.
I’ve never really got on with SRAM brakes. Hopes you can adjust to exactly how you want them and I find the modulation on them is brilliant.
How are you finding the coil?
I've only been out on it once since it got fitted due to working away and falling off when I hit some ice
.First impression was very good, yes it needs some more dialling in with the rebound and low speed compression but it felt great, much smoother (for want of a better word) than the original shock. My mate is the suspension expert but he's been on holiday for the past couple of weeks so he'll no doubt advise me on getting it set correctly
About bumping the front fork travel up. My original fork was damaged, so I'm waiting for a replacement. In the meanwhile I have the fork from my G-170C Works, which is 180mm, and I think it rides a lot better with that than the original 150mm. I have a Smashpot coil conversion on the way, so I will set it and 170 mm when I get my replacement fork.
Tribey
Active member
Positive review of the 150-RS in Januarys issue of mbr
oz555
New Member
Hi there. Has anyone else experienced sagging on the E150s fork? Mine arrived (bought online)with the Yari sitting at 10%/10 mark under its own weight. My LBS was quite sure it wasn’t right, so we sent it back to SRAM. They returned it rebuilt but still sagging with a note saying that sagging is normal. We couldn’t work out why they rebuilt it if it was normal. Doesn’t look right to me and visually looks short on travel.
Anyone else getting this?
Anyone else getting this?
oz555
New Member
I put in my body weight PSI plus 10PSI as recommended on the fork so 70 PSI in total.
oz555
New Member
About a third of the travel.
Have a read of this; Suspension set-up guides and info - EMTB Forums
oz555
New Member
Some useful info there. Cheers.
I had the same with mine. One of the first bikes to be delivered and it went back to whyte before I’d even ridden it. They were rebuilt by SRAM. They never made any comment and yes they are pretty much the same as before. Having now ridden over 600 miles on it and also tested an RS, I still prefer the yari over the lyrik.
I thought this is normal,all my previous forks have and my two 180mm lyriks run at 7-10% sag or droop?
I had this after I'd given mine its first lower leg service. It was negative air pressure in the lower fork legs, I'd misread the manual and assembled the fork at full compression. Does the fork extend if you lift the front up, if you pull down on the lower legs is there a resistance? Solution is to either push a zip tie between the stanchion and the seal to let air in - never fancied doing this, or undoing the bolts at the bottom of the fork, breaking the seals, extending the fork and doing it all up, should put in new crush washers but you might get away without.
In a couple of instances above it sounds like the pos ang chamber pressures have not been equalised. The fork needs to be cycled several times as you add pressure. Each time you cycle the fork your pressure reading should go down. When you have fully equalised the air presdure the reading will remain constant. A fork with no sag just under the weight of the bike will be very harsh.
oz555
New Member
I did a fair bit of research and tried these techniques before the warranty rebuild. Made no difference in my case unfortunately. Cheers for replies.
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