What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

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Zimmerframe said:
Never had anything like that with mine .. :-(
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The shop i brought them from just got back to me and recommend more sealant ?. I have put in a s##t load more stans (the front weights about the same as the rear now) so will see how it goes. If this doesn't work nothing will ?
 
steveo said:
The shop i brought them from just got back to me and recommend more sealant ?. I have put in a s##t load more stans (the front weights about the same as the rear now) so will see how it goes. If this doesn't work nothing will ?
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I had Specialized tyres that did that. They recommended Stans Racing Sealant. Issue resolved!
 
Cool ? if this doesn't work my bike is booked into the bike shop for some bearings next week . I will get them to try something else like stans race ?
 
I have E-Wild front 29x2.6 and E-Wild front 27.5x2.8 (for the rear wheel). I used stans sealant (not stans race sealant) and inflate them on 3 bars. Till tomorrow they lost all pressure. I inflate them again on 3 bars and strong shake tyres. (droping them on the floor and spining them around ).
I do this last 3 weaks. (but not each day. 2 or 3 days pause) and now is finaly fine. Unfortunately i did not test tires because i have some broken parts on bike and i need time to fix it.

P.S.
Front tire i mounted backward.
I heard this advice from forum member Tim29. He accidentally changed the tire orientation. And he find out that it have more grip.

I conclude that the physics behind it is the side of the knobs. Which is cutted to 45 degrees (which are intended for rolling resistance) now used for braking instead of the defoult side which is on 90 degrees.
When you aproach with 45 degrees knob on wett root you immediately have a full contact area.
And when you approach with a knob cut to 90 degrees. It is in contact with the corner of the knob and the root (small surface area). Which begins to merge / flex with the object.
And you have to press the corner of the knob a few mm to achieve the grip surface on the side which was already cut at the start to 45 degrees on the other side.
I tested the grip with the palm (or thumb) in one direction and then the other direction. And I definitely see that it has better grip when I go with my hand in the direction of the knob that is cut to 45 degrees.
I’ve also heard that tire has better grip when is slightly used. That is probably because of that sharp corner becomes rounder and it had the similar effect.

The original orientation is probably a better option for deep mud or loosed rocks. But now it’s winter and it’s wet. And the scariest driving conditions for me are wet rocks and roots.
 
leocompositing said:
Hi folks,

I love the combo DHR 2 rear Assegai front on my Decoy Elite but the 2.8 is too wide for me. Ideally I'd go for a 2.6 or 2.5 DHR but they don't come with Double Down or Downhill casing (why?)....

So two questions: am I crazy to go with an EXO+ casing if I run tyre inserts? Or should I go for a 2.4 DD and deal with pedal strikes and such.
Would like to keep the geo as it is in Low...

Also what's the difference in height between 2.8 and 2.4?

cheers,
L
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they do exist. Just not yet for sale. Here’s mine.

DEEBD6B1-3606-41CF-93D1-665DD1CC1872.jpeg
 
Spagnol said:
Interesting!!! Do you have any idea when they will hit the market ? 2.6 27.5 DHRII DD is perfect for the rear on an Ebike
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No. It’s actually from a demo bike that I had to change out on the trail to a new DHR2 as I got a huge stick caught in it and the sealant wouldn’t seal. So I swapped that entire tyre on the demo to a new DHR2 . I chucked this one in my shed and was there for a while after the demo bike went back (o didn’t actually realise it was a DD). I since repaired it and put it back on.

hopefully it’ll be released soon.
 
steveo said:
Well the extra sealant seems to have worked. I've been running DH tyres recently so must have got to used to not needing as much sealant ?
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I think you just had some unlucky production ones. I tried running the Wilds and the DH22's without any sealant just out of curiosity (I'm weird like that) and they were both fine straight out of the box. Or out of the enormous box for the DH22's and out of the foldy squidgy packing for the Wilds...... :-)
 
My OEM tyres were Assegai 27.5x2.6 3C Maxx Terra EXO+ on the rear and 29x2.6 in the front.

I wanted more grip on the rear, when wading through thick mud, so I bought 27.5x2.8 Hans Dampf EVO APX TLE.

Well, I have to admit that I have a better grip with Assegai in 2.6, so I shelved Hans Dampf for summer and gone back to Assegai, at least for the winter season.
 
Pivot said:
My OEM tyres were Assegai 27.5x2.6 3C Maxx Terra EXO+ on the rear and 29x2.6 in the front.

I wanted more grip on the rear, when wading through thick mud, so I bought 27.5x2.8 Hans Dampf EVO APX TLE.

Well, I have to admit that I have a better grip with Assegai in 2.6, so I shelved Hans Dampf for summer and gone back to Assegai, at least for the winter season.
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Have you tried a Shorty or Hillbilly on rear for winter? In my neck of the woods, they work pretty good all winter long, and neither roll much worse than the assegia. I prefer the Shorty, becuase the large center block seems to climb marginally better than either the assegai, or the hillbilly.
 
MrTeno2U said:
Have you tried a Shorty or Hillbilly on rear for winter? In my neck of the woods, they work pretty good all winter long, and neither roll much worse than the assegia. I prefer the Shorty, becuase the large center block seems to climb marginally better than either the assegai, or the hillbilly.
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Thanks Teno, humble apologies, Mr Teno
Shorty does look the (mud wrestling) business!
 
steveo said:
Has anyone heard anything about a dodgy batch of e wilds ? I have just fitted a set last week and the front has been going flat when sitting over a couple of days. I have just put it in the bath to see if i can see were the air is escaping and it seems to be at certain bits all around the sidewalls !
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I have the same problem. The rear one is fine. Front goes flat overnight. I put 30psi in it and sprayed it with watered down liquid soap. Bubbles erupting out of the side wall like Vesuvius. Got 100 ml of slime in but no joy. Also leaking from the vent hole in the AR30 rim, so will need to tiger tape the rim. So much for TL ready.
 
Ye i got the impression when the shop i got them from e-mailed me back that it's not the first time someone has e-mailed them with this problem. My rear was fine as well but thats down to it having the heavier sidewall. I still have to try it out on a ride tomorrow but seems to holding air ok for now.
 
I went tubeless last week when the bike was in for its first "check-up " service.
I asked ( when picking the bike up ) what sealant they had used expecting the answer to be Stans ..but to my surprise they said Muc-Off ...surprise because I had read some not too complimentary reviews ..but so far they haven't lost a single psi of pressure..
Assegai front..Minion DHR ll rear
 
Pivot said:
View attachment 45395
Since I have e-motor assistance, I don’t care about tubeless, but I do care about not getting stuck in the woods, miles away from home.
My LBS is fitting these to all their rental e-bikes so I fitted it on my rear, when I needed new tube. Hopefully no more problems
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Had these front and rear with slime inner tubes for almost a year, only one flat in that time, I love them :)
 
I'm not happy with the stock front tyre - Spesh Butcher 2.6 - as it loses traction in cornering and slips suddenly.

I've tried going from 24 psi, 22, 20, 19 and finally 18 psi, with no clear gain on cornering traction. Running tubeless, weigh 72kg.

I'm looking to replace the Front Butcher with either:
1) new Schwalbe Magic Mary Super Trail 2.6 (1250g)
2) new Vittoria Mazza Trail 2.6 (1100g)

Anyone with experience with these tyres?

Don't think I need the MM on Super Gravity nor the Mazza on Enduro / e-bike versions (aprox.1400g)

I ride a mix of varied terrain, mostly trails, not enduro, which includes sharp rocks, lose dirt, hardpack and everything in between, including mud every now and then.

The others on my short list:
- Maxxis Assegai - apparently best for dry
- Michelin Wild Enduro - apparently best for wet
 
Well, what a nice experience changing out my rear tyre (unlike @steve_sordy ha ha*).

My old Nobby Nic broke the bead extremely easily using my hands, and came off with one tyre lever ran round the rim. The new Shorty went on with no tools at all - I fully expected that to be a bitch as it's the DD casing, but no. And since I used proper rim Tape (WTB) there was no mess to clean up apart from some left over Muc-Off sealant. Took about 6 mins.

IMG20201127164923.jpg


* I feel for you brother!
 
Last edited:
Depends
En Ecosse, Aye?
DHRII if you value front braking on super steep/loose terrain
DHF if you're happy holding a drift
There is no DHFII
Assguy if you're fast enough that dry tyres never clog for you.

DHF/DHRII both corner incredibly similarly when leant over properly onto the edge tread. The main difference is the drift zone and braking.
 
deksawyer said:
Well, what a nice experience changing out my rear tyre (unlike @steve_sordy ha ha*).

My old Nobby Nic broke the bead extremely easily using my hands, and came off with one tyre lever ran round the rim. The new Shorty went on with no tools at all - I fully expected that to be a bitch as it's the DD casing, but no. And since I used proper rim Tape (WTB) there was no mess to clean up apart from some left over Muc-Off sealant. Took about 6 mins.

View attachment 45682

* I feel for you brother!
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Waiting for ride review. It's my favorite rear tire.

Most the online reviews are from MTB users running the narrower versions and almost universally on the front.

I've found no rear tire that does as well on steeps up and down, while not also completely killing momentum when the trail flattens out.
 
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