Vitus E-Mythique Tech docs

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General Bits for the Vitus E-Mythique :

Fork Offset : 44mm (1.5" to 1-1/8" tapered)

Shock Size 205 * 65mm (Trunnion)

Link to Rear Shock on VR/VRS

Bottom Shock hardware : 25 * 8mm (Fox code : 803-03-328 DVO code : 1429250-8 Both should be interchangable)

Headtube : 44-56mm Tapered Semi-Integrated

Headset : ZS44/28.6 - ZS56/40

Hanger : SRAM UDH

Rear Hub : 148 * 12mm

Rear Axle : 181mm Length, 14.5mm Thread Length, M12xP1.0 Thread Pitch

Seat Post 31.6mm , clamp 34.9mm

Frame Bearings : 4 x 6901-2RS, 8 x 6802V-2RS, 2 x 6902-2RS

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Chainring locknut tool for the M510 in the E-mythique is the Park Tool BBT-18 or equivalent like a Super B TB-1069. The same as the Brose/Bosch 8 notch lockring tool.

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For the motor, there is an M510 thread here, but the newer controller (FC2.0) only really starts from Page 53 - the other 52 pages don't actually contain anything relevant or useful. At date of writing the thread was on page 58 and there's not really anything there to be learnt which would be beneficial to anyone with a Mythique.


If you do update your Mythique firmware to an alternative, in theory you can't revert back - only a Vitus dealer could do that for you. (Firmware is attached in post #12 so you could also flash it with besst)

The C245 Display and the switch both need a 2.5mm hex to remove/adjust.

VR Model with Microshift. Default Chain is KMC X10 - 116 links.

Can also use 11 and 12 speed chains. Presently running an SRAM PC1130 120 link chain with 4 links removed.

Alternate cranks, aliexpress (152's) or Miranda Delta LS, for example 160 and 155's :



Touch up paint for all the bikes are available here :


Separate Mudguard thread :


Fork and Shock thread :


Attachment - M510 Motor manual (install) pdf
 

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E-Mythique : RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUES


UPPER SHOCK BOLTS14NM
LOWER SHOCK BOLTS10NM
V-LINK SEAT TUBE PIVOT14NM
V-LINK SEAT STAY PIVOTS14 NM
MAIN PIVOT19NM
HORST LINK PIVOTS14NM
HANGER25NM
CABLE GUIDES3NM

VR Model - Microshift Advent Cassette - I think is 40nm.

M510 Motor side cover 1NM. (m3*8)
M510 Bash Guard 4NM (m5*8)
Motor - M8 Lock Nuts 35nm
 
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Exploded Diagram and part specs/numbers

MY23_-_Vitus_-_Editorial_-_Exploded_Diagram_-_E-Mythique_page-0001.jpg
 
At launch, the E-Mythique comes with one battery type. The F16.

Full name : BT F16.630.C

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Physical sizes :

1691649632744.png


A 410mm B 75mm C 82mm and weighs in at 3.9kg with it's outer cover (integrated).

EDIT : Weighed mine and it's 3.6kg with the cover and rubber stone guard.

It's a 36v 630wh battery. (17.5AH) Voltage scope is 27.5-42v . Actual capacity when new is lower, but this increases over several charge cycles.

(Note : Charge cycles displayed on the Bafang isn't 100% full charge cycles, but just how many times it's been connected to a charger)

Max continuous discharge current is 23A !!!! (In theory, you could pull 42v*23A for 966w Peak Power !!!) Seems to actually pull a max of 19 Amps (tested).

The bike is spec'ed with a 2A charger, but mine came with the 3A charger, so hopefully they all do as it's faster !

1700071564168.png


Charging - plug the charger into the mains and THEN ! into the bike or it won't always charge - sometimes it will if you twist the charge connector in the battery back and forwards... ?!?! Sure this will all make more sense in time :)

The charger light theoretically shows Red when charging and Green when charged, but if you want to make sure it's charging, turn the bike on. Press the up and down buttons for a couple of seconds. Select information and battery and you should see a current reading of something like 2750ma - if it's -50 it's just drawing current on standby.

1698580420648.png


If you remove the battery, the LED on the battery flashes red for the first 33%, then green for the next 33% then blue for the final 33% when it's charging.

It seems sometimes the battery goes into "safe"/"storage" mode. To exit this mode, remove the battery, press the button and hold for a two or three seconds and it should go green from red.

You can also put the battery into storage mode with a longer press (around 10 seconds) and it should cycle red/blue/green.

Edit: Youtube video better explaining entering and exiting sleep mode !


Replacement batteries :


Batteries are made by Celxpert Energy Co - Taiwan :


Battery Lock/Catch :

1709138251921.png
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1709138337153.png

Info on how to remove the need for the key from the lock mechanism :


Bafang M510 Display/Motor/Battery Wiring Loom:

1709139673865.png



Bottom battery mount :

1709139707837.png


 
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M510 Motor wiring Diagram for the Vitus E-Mythique (I think this is just completely standard for any M510)

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If you want to add lights then I think you need the 1T3 cable which adds a split off to connect them (this might already be stuffed up the seat tube, but I've not looked at time of writing). I think it's 6v and 0,5 amps ! So not much - maybe 300 lumens ?
 
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Error Codes :eek:

Well, someone's going to get one .. especially now we're going back to the good old spoke magnet ...

Bafang use quite a simple and standard error code system. If you scroll down on their service page you can then tag left and right through the codes - link to the service page in English :


I've attached a PDF to this post also.

I was going to convert them all to searchable, but there's only 29 codes so it's not that difficult to just look to find the code and the solution.
 

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Some fault diagnostics :

In "Go" - DPC245 V2 - Torque sensor reading with no pressure is about 750.

Pressure to rotate cranks backwards ?

With the bike vertical and cranks level. On my bike with about 750km's. Place a light plastic beaker on a pedal and slowly pour water in. With a 5cm wide base, I get about 1cm before the cranks very slowly start to move. That weighs about 50g.

The battery : It seems sometimes the battery goes into "safe"/"storage" mode. To exit this mode, remove the battery, press the button and hold for a second or two and it should go green from red.

Another thing to try if the bike won't power on is to remove the battery, then hold down the power on button and re-insert the battery (you might need an extra hand), if the bike starts up then the problem might not be the motor control board.

Squashed cable from dropper or above motor - sometimes the cables above the motor (spare length) gets squashed if you lower the dropper post. There's also instances of them being incorrectly installed and squashed :

e-mythique squashed cable.jpg


The cables going into the motor aren't always perfectly seated and these can also suffer moisture ingress. Often, if you remove them, clean them up/dry them out - they're fine again. The one highlighted is the most prone :

E-Mythique water ingress connector.png


Other issues, like walk mode on it's own, seem to require a new M510 FC2.0 controller board in the motor.
 
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Display is a DPC 245 V2. Which means Bluetooth 5.0 not 5.1 - Tested : this works with "Go" but not "Go+" (though does connect to Go+, just doesn't work) You need a V3 for 5.1/Go+ (Have one ordered to test)

1691768447585.png


On the bright side a new display and switch is only about €80 so if you break it or want the bluetooth version, it's not the end of the world.

Basics :

1691768494075.png


One great bonus is that both have a USB C port for charging (5v 500ma).

For a "cheap" bike, the display gives great functionality and easy configuration. You can change KM/MI, change the brightness, change the default standby power off time, Change the light sensitivity. View your wheel size, speed limit, battery specs/charge states (Relative and Actual)/capacity/charges/amps/FW and hardware versions. Error code logs, Turn on and off the service indicator (no need to visit a dealer to have the annoying thing removed) .

1691768626048.png


Here's the manuals for anyone wanting to get ahead of things. Note that the modes shown in the manual are not the same as on the E-Mythique as Vitus have their own modes. There's one for the 5.1 and one for the 5.0 bluetooth versions.

The manual also contains the error codes at the end.

If you think there might be a problem with the switches on the DPC245 for powering on or fault determination, you can emulate power on by shorting the two pins nearest the display with an electrical screwdriver or some other implement. You need to hold it for a few seconds.

1699193690272.png


If like me, when you run GO+ and it decides to do weird crap - In my case it overwrote all the motor settings to 0... Leaving only working walk mode.

The default E-Mythique M510 assistance settings in theory are Acceleration 4. Then Mode 1 120%/55%. Mode 2 140/75. Mode 3 220/90. Mode 4 340/100. Mode 5 400/100.
 

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M510 Dealer manual (attached) - some but not a vast amount of information .

The M510 at this point has shipped with 2 different torque sensors. One for the FC1.0 and one for the FC2.0 (motor controller board). If you need to buy a replacement sensor, you need the one with a model number beginning with "GR" as we have the FC2.0 version.

The "Go" app has a page where you can check the torque sensor value if you're doing fault diagnostics - no pressure it reads 750mv :

1693120432710.png
 

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How reliable are spoke mounted magnets? I wonder if it'd be hard to convert it to a rotor mount if there's any problems.
I think they work fairly well. We've all moved onto rotor mounts, mainly because it's tidier I guess. I know a lot of people used to carry a spare in case they lost it (you could just put one on another spoke out of line with the sensor).

It doesn't look simple to modify it. You could extend the cable along the inside edge of the chainstay, but there's nowhere to really mount a sensor (if you wanted to bolt/screw it in place). There is a void at the end of the chainstay casting though where you could bond one into place I guess.

IMG_20230912_152330.jpg


Your post reminded me to straighten mine up (T20 security), so will see if that makes any difference. I did have a power cut off today on a climb.

Off topic for this post and probably shouldn't be shared, so it's kinda hidden here... but for anyone who ever needs it, the Vitus E-Mythique Bafang M510 FC2.0 motor firmware file is attached.
 

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E-Mythique Max seatpost insertion depths : S 177mm, M 215mm, L 242mm, XL 270mm.

Therefore on a Medium a Oneup V2 max would be 180mm (Calculator) - the oneup calculator also shows you the max from other seatposts :

L can run the 210mm post. XL can run the 240 post - though check as it may also depend on your collar to seat rail measurements. For example, if you were 7ft tall on a small, you could also run a 240 post, it would just stick out a long way !

1696003584018.png
 
Hello, is there any chance of getting repaired that type of battery.
I'm sure it would be repairable. There are plenty of places that repair and rebuild batteries. The good thing about Bafang stuff though is they are probably cheaper to just replace that repair.
 
I'm sure it would be repairable. There are plenty of places that repair and rebuild batteries. The good thing about Bafang stuff though is they are probably cheaper to just replace that repair.

Yup you’re right but in this case the battery dimensions is specific for vitus mytique. Very hard to find bafang bt f16 . I found one but good to know if the parts inside are in stock to order for the purpose of repair. I was wondering if you had repaired that one or just opened it to take a photos.
 
Yup you’re right but in this case the battery dimensions is specific for vitus mytique. Very hard to find bafang bt f16 . I found one but good to know if the parts inside are in stock to order for the purpose of repair. I was wondering if you had repaired that one or just opened it to take a photos.
I bought a new one. I just opened this one to see if it was something simple to repair. I did not find anything obvious.

When I purchased mine it was very easy. I just contacted Changzhou Fieldebikes on Alibaba and ordered it. I took a while to get but they were upfront about it. No complaints at all.
 
I bought a new one. I just opened this one to see if it was something simple to repair. I did not find anything obvious.

When I purchased mine it was very easy. I just contacted Changzhou Fieldebikes on Alibaba and ordered it. I took a while to get but they were upfront about it. No complaints at all.

Yes I saw it on Alibaba but Ive ordered mine from Aliexpress(its only one seller). How many miles you have had until stopped working ?
 
Yes I saw it on Alibaba but Ive ordered mine from Aliexpress(its only one seller). How many miles you have had until stopped working ?
I don't remember how many miles it had on it when it died, its been well over a year since it happened. If I had to guess maybe 500?
 
Since I couldn't find it anywhere so far:
Does anyone know what the max. chainring size for the Vitus e-Mythique is?
A 36 tooth will surely fit, but would a 38 tooth also work?
My brother picked up my e-Mythique and is using it as a commuter bike... would be nice, if he could use more than the last 3 cogs on the cassette, so a bigger chainring would surely help.

Thanks in advance :)
 
Since I couldn't find it anywhere so far:
Does anyone know what the max. chainring size for the Vitus e-Mythique is?
A 36 tooth will surely fit, but would a 38 tooth also work?
My brother picked up my e-Mythique and is using it as a commuter bike... would be nice, if he could use more than the last 3 cogs on the cassette, so a bigger chainring would surely help.

Thanks in advance :)
I just threw a 38t on a medium frame.

Didn't have to remove the crank or pedal, just required some patience jiggling the original off.

The chain guide adjusts and needs raising about 8mm.

No problems so far but only done about 400k with it on.

1000028261.webp


Didn't add any chain links either, but it's on the limit and I'm not running the stock setup, so you might need to add links.
 
I'm not running the stock setup,
I've been contemplating a linkglide swap for mine because I've pulled apart two HG 12 speed chains. Granted I was doing stupid stuff (climbing stairs on one and standing-and-power-pedaling on the other - both in Race mode) but it still makes me leary of the 12 speed stuff now.

Its just hard to swap to something different when all the other bikes in the family are 12 speed and I have tons of spare parts.
 
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I've been contemplating a linkglide swap for mine because I've pulled apart two HG 12 speed chains. Granted I was doing stupid stuff (climbing stairs on one and standing-and-power-pedaling on the other - both in Race mode) but it still makes me leary of the 12 speed stuff now.

Its just hard to swap to something different when all the other bikes in the family are 12 speed and I have tons of spare parts.
I guess I've been lucky with my 12 speeds. It was the original chains on this which kept snapping.

Since I swapped to CUES ita been problem free (10 speed). Can't remember what chain I put on, probably an 11 SRAM one as I had loads of those.

I use two old ones to hold up my pull up bar and they haven't snapped.

12 would be nice, but this just works and lasts , or seems to .. though the 12 on the focus lasts well too (Shimano).
 
I just threw a 38t on a medium frame.

Didn't have to remove the crank or pedal, just required some patience jiggling the original off.

The chain guide adjusts and needs raising about 8mm.

No problems so far but only done about 400k with it on.

View attachment 183430

Didn't add any chain links either, but it's on the limit and I'm not running the stock setup, so you might need to add links.
Great, thanks for the info!
Coming from 34 teeth, I'll probably go for a new chain aswell.
Great to here that the chainring can be swapped without needing to take of the crankarm and/or spider... just neet to remember to adjust the chain guide before mounting the new chainring :D
 
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