Rail (625Wh) Trek RIB Battery Alignment Procedure - Updated
- Thread starter Doomanic
- Start date
Old version of thread in case anything in there proves relevant ..
If anyone has Qs on this, please message me directly. All parts are available through your LBS and it is recommended for them to install it if necessary. Not all models will need this and many should see this alignment plate already installed as a rolling change.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I have a 2019 trek rail is the newer version better? Can I get mine upgraded by my local bike shop ?
Sorry mines a 9.8 2020
It would be updated from what came stock on your model. If you don't have any rattle or trouble with the alignment, there would be no need to replace it.
I had momentary battery disconnects on almost every ride (on bumpy descents) even after a visit to trek for a realignment. I finally solved it by removing the motor cover, loosening the lower bracket bolts, and pressing the lower bracket up into the battery with a long hex wrench while tightening the bolts. Would prefer a proper fix but if it ain’t broke …
Scott from Aus
New Member
My 19' LT9 used to lose power all the time, but had it fixed at lbs under warranty. The other issue I had was the noisy lock, it sounded like there was a plastic bead rattling around inside above the battery.
I now ride a 2022 Rail 9 (alloy) and it has the same rattle, its the metal locking tap making the noise again. I dont think it did it from new, it has developed in the last couple of rides and near 400km of rough single.
I hope this fixes it, or its lock removal mod time!!
I now ride a 2022 Rail 9 (alloy) and it has the same rattle, its the metal locking tap making the noise again. I dont think it did it from new, it has developed in the last couple of rides and near 400km of rough single.
I hope this fixes it, or its lock removal mod time!!
Scott from Aus
New Member
After a little more digging I think it is something in the seat/dropper post making the noise. Riding over rough ground seated I hear it, while standing - nothing. There is a bit of play back and forward in the dropper/seat. Bike is due for 1st service so I will have the bike shop investigate.
Scott from Aus
New Member
Issue seems to be solved, shortened the cable to dropper mech and greased the linkage. Hopefully the shortened cable was the fix as its permanent.
Mitch, I have a 2021 Rail 7. The battery will not come out with just the turn of the key. However, I was able to get it out by removing all the screws once. Is this new fix something I should look into? What is the cost for the new RIB system?
chrismechmaster
Well-known member
Just Seen this thread
is this something that needs to be fitted to all trek rail as a precaution / preventative or only if you develop problems??
I have a 2021 rail 9.9
is this something that needs to be fitted to all trek rail as a precaution / preventative or only if you develop problems??
I have a 2021 rail 9.9
This isn't needed for all Rail models, but if the battery isn't being aligned properly or can't be aligned properly, this would be good to add. But models were updated with this mid-production, so some may already have it.
chrismechmaster
Well-known member
Thank you for your reply
Seems to me that the larger and therefore heavier and longer the battery is, the more likely there are to be alignment issues. So those with 500Wh batteries have the least problems and those with 750Wh batteries have the most problems (proportionally).
500Wh battery ~3.0kg/349mm
625Wh battery ~3.6kg/416mm
750Wh battery ~4.3kg/484mm
Might be a few gm/mm out.
500Wh battery ~3.0kg/349mm
625Wh battery ~3.6kg/416mm
750Wh battery ~4.3kg/484mm
Might be a few gm/mm out.
torabora851
Member
The battery alignment plate for the 750w battery is too long, and the fitment can't be aligned correctly without bending the plate. This thing was introduced to fix the alignment issues but just made it worse.
Thanks Dave. So just to confirm, a 1.5mm washer under the top battery alignment plate should do the trick eh? Did you end up doing this yourself?
I didn’t do any adjustments, my LBS made all the adjustments for me. Don’t think they used washers, just closed the gap between the mounting plates as much as possible and used some rubber cutouts to strengthen the top plat to stop it moving.
Thanks for the photos. I went ahead and added washers on the backside of the top mounting plate and am going to take it for a spin here shortly. I’ll report back with my findings.
I can’t say with high certainty, but I believe the bottom battery bracket may have been the culprit. I noticed this gap has been wider than at the top since I purchased the bike. After a couple hard crashes, it must have made things worse to the point where the misalignment was enough to cut power?
The cable that is attached the controller on the handlebar looks to be routed quite tightly, and would likely be under force particuarly when turning the bars? That may be the issue?The washers did not fix the condition.
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torabora851
Member
I don't see possible issues with that other than scratching the battery. But the Trek engineers believe that this is important to keep it flat.
But this is for the 625w version, probably for the 750w they have another document which says that: "IMPORTANT: Make sure the alignment is bowed up significantly"
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I don’t know why the photo makes it look that way but the cable is not tight at all. I did end up getting a big ride in after adjusting the bottom battery bracket and that was definitely the issue. I didn’t experience any power surging, power downs or any unexpected power events. I’m surprised such a small adjustment resolved the issue but I’m not complaining.
If this continues, I wonder if a wire is bad in the connection. It would be worth bringing this to your local dealer so they can inspect the wires and pull them apart if needed.
Did you ever find a fix? Having issues with my rail as well.
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