Wait a minute...expand on your mention of an H2...which one?
Trek Rail upgrades, what have you done?
- Thread starter Gazzaaitken
- Start date
fasterjason
Member
1975 two-stroke triple 750, the widow maker......Wait a minute...expand on your mention of an H2...which one?
LOL!...that's what I was wondering. I had the sky blue '72 model as my second motorcycle and later the brown/gold '74 model. I worked part time at a motorcycle shop...spent all my extra money there.
Edit to add: come to think of it I still do...except now it's on MTB's/EMTB's and still motorcycles...and the part time is at a bike shop. It's a disease.
Yes Speedi definitely works on the Gen 4. It's great with the new Bosch interface which doesn't have any speed display. (speed reading would be out).
Do
Would this make the odo read incorrectly?
yes
Gianni
Member
Good morning, which wheelset do you use on your TREK?
I'm looking for a sturdy, not too expensive set; the original wheels are too delicate for my weight and driving style
I'm looking for a sturdy, not too expensive set; the original wheels are too delicate for my weight and driving style
Are you asking someone specifically or is this general to all here?
Gianni
Member
It's a request I make to anyone with experience
I use the Bontrager Carbon rims, the "cheap" version. I thrashed one after 5 weeks, got a replacement under warranty and those rims are now on the 3rd Rail. Very happy. The spokes are not the best though. I have broken quite a few on the rear wheel. I used to dent alu rims all the time, as its quite a few rock gardens in my area
Gotcha. Over many years of MTB'ing, I've always found the rear wheel to be the weak link. That's logical since by the nature of use and design, the rear wheel almost always takes the hits the most aggressively. Not that you can't taco a front wheel by any means.
On my Trek Rail 7 the front wheel seems very capable and has held up quite well in rocky, harsh terrain. However, eventually I end up breaking spokes and such on every MTB I've ever had. With this Rail I know it will happen as I can ride this bike even more aggressively.
That said, I picked up a Bontrager Line Pro 30 TLR rear wheel...just the rear. It's a carbon rim with straight pull spokes and a good, high engagement hub. This wheelset is on sale from Trek as a pair or just a single. I've never wanted to spend the money on a carbon wheel, but this one appears to be a good value. I've not had issues with good quality, beefy, aluminum rims, but at this price point I went for carbon this time.
I'm a big proponent of straight pull spokes. At least when done properly, they are almost always superior to J-bends. This was one of the biggest leaps forward for dirt motorcycle wheels, and it carries over to MTB wheels. There are some really good wheels out there, but a good carbon rimmed wheel is usually very expensive. This Bontrager rear wheel is a good balance of value and robust design IMO.
I'd also add that it's got a 2-year guarantee against damage with free replacement.
Gianni
Member
Thank you all. I'm taking inspiration from your experiences and looking around. I'm evaluating the DT SWISS HX 1700 or some assembled set. After updating the suspension of my TREK (ZEB Charger 3 170mm and Fox X2 Factory) and the brakes (Shimano Saint), now an update to the wheels is what we need to have a "perfect" bike
Hey bike looks awesome. Do you like this shock on this bike? I’m thinking about doing the same. Did you consider 62.5mm stroke and did you consider the Vivid air?
Gianni
Member
Update!
I ordered a set of MAVIC E-Deemax 29 from my trusted bike store, it seems like a good compromise between price and quality.
In the past I had a good experience with Mavic, I hope it happens again. Thanks again
I ordered a set of MAVIC E-Deemax 29 from my trusted bike store, it seems like a good compromise between price and quality.
In the past I had a good experience with Mavic, I hope it happens again. Thanks again
This is my Gen 2 Rail 7. Ive made a few changes since I picked up last winter. I've swapped out the SRAM DB8 brakes for Shimano SLX 4 piston brakes. The dropper post is a 170mm PNW Loam with a PNW Loam lever. Diety Black Cat pedals, Diety seatpost clamp, PNW Range handlebar, Ergon GE1 grips, Zeb Ultimate 160mm fork, Sicomtb rear fender, and my trusty Chromag Trailmaster LTD saddle. Ive got a Dyedbro protection kit on the frame, as well as 3M film on the downtube and headtube. My current wheels are WTB i29s laced to Tairin Shogun hubs. Tires are Schwalbe Magic Mary front and Hans Dampf rear. I'll be putting my Nobl TR wheels on later this summer. I'm going to rebuild the rear TR37 with a Hope Pro 5 emtb hub first though. I plan on switching the drivetrain to Shimano 8130 linkglide eventually, as well as upgrading the rear shock.
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bfletch2006
Member
Hi, Does the Zeb from your Slash have a 1.5 inch steerer tube?Here is a Zeb 170 from a Slash when I installed it on my Rail 5 - yes it works, but I hate the look
View attachment 134433
bfletch2006
Member
Hi, does your Zeb have a 1.5 inch steerer tube? How do you like the PNW bars?
Tapered steerer 1.5" - 1 1/8". I really like the PNW bars. I've been using them for a few years and I've got them on multiple bikes. They have just the right amount of rise and sweep IMO and they are in the sweet spot for compliance.
bfletch2006
Member
Thanks! I found a good deal on a zeb ultimate with a 1.5 inch steerer. Did you notice any difference going from the OEM 1.8 inch steerer the bike came with?
Don't most all the modern, longer travel forks have the 1/8"/1/2" standard?
The stock fork also had a tapered steerer. My Domain was damaged during assembly so I upgraded to the Zeb Ultimate before I picked the bike up.
bfletch2006
Member
My Rail 9.8 has a 1.8 inch steerer. I have to get a reducer to make the headset work if get a fork with the standard 1.5 inch steerer
That doesn't seem right. Are uou the original owner, is it the OEM fork?
bfletch2006
Member
It’s has a 1 1/8-1.8 in headset. I checked the Rockshox specs on the fork and it has a 1.8 in steerer.
That doesn't seem right. Are uou the original owner, is it the OEM fork?
I agree that it doesn't sound right unless that's an aftermarket fork of some sort and then with some kind of an adapter headset for the bottom. All Rails have the 1.5 bottom and 1&1/8 top head tubes which is pretty much the industry standard for bikes at this level and category.
The EMTB hubs aren't that much different, I think swapping the freehub is probably all you need to do - only difference is the EMTB hub engages all 6 pawls at once (54 points), whereas the regular bub has them offset, so it's 3 engaged at a time (104pts). Easier/cheaper than a whole new hub and build
Newer Gen 4 carbon rails have a 1.8 lower, mine has the same
@bfletch2006 - if your existing fork is a zeb, you could leave the crown/steerer in place, and swap the internals and lowers of the new zeb ultimate onto it. And you can rebuild the leftovers into a 1.5 steerer fork which will be easier to sell on.
Yeah, we haven't seen or gotten any 2024 carbon Rails, but I see in the spec sheet what you're saying. It says "1.8" oversize tapered steerer". I must admit ignorance of this new to me standard for a bottom steerer size of 1.8" vs 1.5"...wasn't aware of it. Oh boy...another "standard" to deal with.
I see it appears to be an emtb specific issue...I think. Oh well...time marches on...LOL!The wheels are built with Chris King hubs. They are centerlock and the Rail doesn't play well with with centerlock.
bfletch2006
Member
@hongeorge -that is a great idea.
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