SEBA
Active member
how many cables are attached to the upper bracket ? if more than 1 , are they from the same cover plate ? ( because 2 cables from under EACH cover increase difficulty lol )
Strive:ON problems
- Thread starter hubertsk
- Start date
Tieff
Active member
Yes, right. And take care of the cables the ends of the plates (covers) are sharp.
SEBA
Active member
can grind a little the plate cover to make it rounder and therefore less sharp
Tieff
Active member
Sorry, I didn't answer to this question.
If I'm not mistaken, it's enough to open the right side of the cable duct (see your picture below). On the left side there is the brake line, the shift cable and the seat post. But I have no idea if this is the same for every bike...
SEBA
Active member
maybe also some simple foam sheet around the battery can help 0 move ( not the expansive foam obviously)
Tieff
Active member
Yes, I've tried that too. Another option: wrap a bicycle tube around the battery and then pump it up once the battery is in. Both work somehow, but both are a tedious job of fiddling when removing the battery. The foam pad usually gets caught on the latch counterpart in the down tube and breaks, and the tube doesn't make it any easier to remove the battery. I'm currently using the Cascade Components Latch solution. It's super professional and has solved all problems so far. If everything is secure on the upper battery bracket, everything's OK. So far, anyway. I'll keep testing it and report back here from time to time. But so far: no problems and the battery can always be removed and installed without any problems, as originally intended by Canyon.
Tieff
Active member
This is a copy of my post from the 2024 Strive:ON forum, just for your convenience
So, now here is it, not as video but as photo-story, the famous @Mario Antony threadlock mod:
Before: Remove battery
1: Disassemble lower bracket (to slip in with your arm more easly)
2: Zip tie the cables (2 groups, left and right cable duct)
3: Remove the metal strips that protect the cables (just pull out by hand, no tools needed)
4: I didn't notice before but the ends of the metal strips are covered with tape, so no danger to damage the cables
5: Should look like this then
6: Put in your hand and grab the upper battery holder
7: Loosen the screws on the outside of the downtube
8: Pull the upper battery holder out (no worries it cannot fall back into the frame)
9: Loosen screws (Torx 25) (one by one)
10: Buy Loctite 243 (better do it before you start)
11: Apply Loctite to the screws and fasten to 5 Nm
12: Do the same with the other two srews (T20) and fasten to about 3 to 4 Nm
By the way: the grease you see on the battery terminals is pole grease. It helps prevent corrosion of the terminal pins.
Now comes the tricky part (better get someone with thin forearms to help you). Push the upper battery bracket back into the frame. Try to hit the two holes, when you've found one: put the screw in and... you've won, the other one is easy. Now do the remaining steps backwards and you're done. Cable ducts are easy. Half an hour all in all... Big peace of mind afterwards!! Have fun.
So, now here is it, not as video but as photo-story, the famous @Mario Antony threadlock mod:
Before: Remove battery
1: Disassemble lower bracket (to slip in with your arm more easly)
2: Zip tie the cables (2 groups, left and right cable duct)
3: Remove the metal strips that protect the cables (just pull out by hand, no tools needed)
4: I didn't notice before but the ends of the metal strips are covered with tape, so no danger to damage the cables
5: Should look like this then
6: Put in your hand and grab the upper battery holder
7: Loosen the screws on the outside of the downtube
8: Pull the upper battery holder out (no worries it cannot fall back into the frame)
9: Loosen screws (Torx 25) (one by one)
10: Buy Loctite 243 (better do it before you start)
11: Apply Loctite to the screws and fasten to 5 Nm
12: Do the same with the other two srews (T20) and fasten to about 3 to 4 Nm
By the way: the grease you see on the battery terminals is pole grease. It helps prevent corrosion of the terminal pins.
Now comes the tricky part (better get someone with thin forearms to help you). Push the upper battery bracket back into the frame. Try to hit the two holes, when you've found one: put the screw in and... you've won, the other one is easy. Now do the remaining steps backwards and you're done. Cable ducts are easy. Half an hour all in all... Big peace of mind afterwards!! Have fun.
InRustWeTrust
E*POWAH Master
Then it was my turn to get problems, the bike has only run 290 km. it started with me feeling like I was getting less assistance in all modes.
today when I was out cycling it started with cut outs and the display started to glow orange. I can fix it myself but feel I'd rather send the bike back and have canyon fix their junk bikes.
today when I was out cycling it started with cut outs and the display started to glow orange. I can fix it myself but feel I'd rather send the bike back and have canyon fix their junk bikes.
Damn even if it seems easy to do, I guess people on the verge to buy a new strive
n might double think about that.
When I think of it, all my canyon bike had some kind of know issue, none fixed, before buying - last time vaut the totally crappy headset of the acros for the spectral. Fault by design, they knew it, they just continue to sell it but gladly send you the fixed part.
I was thinking on ordering a Strive:ON CFR Underdog for my wife but meh ... feel painful to deal with such dumb design and have to order from US a part
n might double think about that.When I think of it, all my canyon bike had some kind of know issue, none fixed, before buying - last time vaut the totally crappy headset of the acros for the spectral. Fault by design, they knew it, they just continue to sell it but gladly send you the fixed part.
I was thinking on ordering a Strive:ON CFR Underdog for my wife but meh ... feel painful to deal with such dumb design and have to order from US a part
InRustWeTrust
E*POWAH Master
Damn even if it seems easy to do, I guess people on the verge to buy a new strive
When I think of it, all my canyon bike had some kind of know issue, none fixed, before buying - last time vaut the totally crappy headset of the acros for the spectral. Fault by design, they knew it, they just continue to sell it but gladly send you the fixed part.
I was thinking on ordering a Strive:ON CFR Underdog for my wife but meh ... feel painful to deal with such dumb design and have to order from US a part
unfortunately it is not only Canyon that has this problem, but also orbea and scott have the same problem but not as much. so the fault lies with bosh. I think Canyon has become a bit more famous for this problem as they are one of the biggest bike brands and they sell more bikes than their competitors and then they get more spread if it is a mistake
Tieff
Active member
... and believe me, bikes from other brands have problems that are just as annoying, if not more so: hidden cracks in the carbon frame, batteries that won't charge, internal cables that rattle (extremely annoying), cracking and grinding noises (also extremely annoying and hard to find), batteries overheating, rusting bearings, bad wheels, and so on, I've seen a lot. I don't want to defend Canyon or Bosch here (the question of who is to blame is not so clear), but we can start a general moaning thread and you'll see that a lot of things will appear.Damn even if it seems easy to do, I guess people on the verge to buy a new strive
When I think of it, all my canyon bike had some kind of know issue, none fixed, before buying - last time vaut the totally crappy headset of the acros for the spectral. Fault by design, they knew it, they just continue to sell it but gladly send you the fixed part.
I was thinking on ordering a Strive:ON CFR Underdog for my wife but meh ... feel painful to deal with such dumb design and have to order from US a part
el.guillyt
Member
Hi everyone, has anyone replaced the headset for non-OEM one? I had replaced the shifting and seatpost cables and guides, and I found the plastic spacer for the cables broken, I think it's a pretty crappy design, it's a thin plastic piece, very flimsy, now the steering it's a bit stiff, there's some friction and I'm inclined to think it's this spacer not doing it's job properly anymore. I'm looking for a better option if there is such thing, any help would be appreciated!
If you mean the plastic compression ring that the cables pass through you can replace it with this alloy one from Across.
I installed the alloy one and I can't notice much difference to be honest.
I still occasionally get a clicking noise if I lift the bike by the handlebars but it should be more durable.
Acros bike components | acros
Reliable bike components and the best service for more time on the bike.
acros-components.com
el.guillyt
Member
Mine is broken so, needs replacement anyway, I'll try that for now, many thanks!If you mean the plastic compression ring that the cables pass through you can replace it with this alloy one from Across.
I installed the alloy one and I can't notice much difference to be honest.
I still occasionally get a clicking noise if I lift the bike by the handlebars but it should be more durable.
Acros bike components | acros
Reliable bike components and the best service for more time on the bike.
hey folks,
reading this thread a while already and had the inital problems with power cuts but fixed them with your help, THANKS A MIL!
Now having some trouble with power cuts again when getting harder hits during uphills or flat sections on trails...
I already did all the reworks on the bike, fixed the connector, fixed the latches, added cable straps but sometimes have still the power cuts as written above... this also happened during ebikes races in uphill power stages and this is just suckzzzz
I have to say I´m riding this bike really hard... full enduro no matter what, 2-3 times a week with 2x 750w batteries most of the times2000-3000meters of downhill every ride... I am around 4,500km on it and the bike itself is awesome, just this power cuts are killing me...
When checked the connector while I´ve added screw lock, I noticed small movement in the connector itself, I would say, this is as per design but not 100% sure... anyone see movement in the connector itself
for the ones intressed...
running Zeb and Vivid Coil Ultimate
Schwalbe Shredda Radial front and back
223 Rotors rear and front
2x 750wh batteries
reading this thread a while already and had the inital problems with power cuts but fixed them with your help, THANKS A MIL!
Now having some trouble with power cuts again when getting harder hits during uphills or flat sections on trails...
I already did all the reworks on the bike, fixed the connector, fixed the latches, added cable straps but sometimes have still the power cuts as written above... this also happened during ebikes races in uphill power stages and this is just suckzzzz
I have to say I´m riding this bike really hard... full enduro no matter what, 2-3 times a week with 2x 750w batteries most of the times2000-3000meters of downhill every ride... I am around 4,500km on it and the bike itself is awesome, just this power cuts are killing me...
When checked the connector while I´ve added screw lock, I noticed small movement in the connector itself, I would say, this is as per design but not 100% sure... anyone see movement in the connector itself
for the ones intressed...
running Zeb and Vivid Coil Ultimate
Schwalbe Shredda Radial front and back
223 Rotors rear and front
2x 750wh batteries
Wow, you're really riding the sh*t out of this thing, huh? Good work! That's a lot of riding every week!hey folks,
reading this thread a while already and had the inital problems with power cuts but fixed them with your help, THANKS A MIL!
Now having some trouble with power cuts again when getting harder hits during uphills or flat sections on trails...
I already did all the reworks on the bike, fixed the connector, fixed the latches, added cable straps but sometimes have still the power cuts as written above... this also happened during ebikes races in uphill power stages and this is just suckzzzz
I have to say I´m riding this bike really hard... full enduro no matter what, 2-3 times a week with 2x 750w batteries most of the times2000-3000meters of downhill every ride... I am around 4,500km on it and the bike itself is awesome, just this power cuts are killing me...
When checked the connector while I´ve added screw lock, I noticed small movement in the connector itself, I would say, this is as per design but not 100% sure... anyone see movement in the connector itself
for the ones intressed...
running Zeb and Vivid Coil Ultimate
Schwalbe Shredda Radial front and back
223 Rotors rear and front
2x 750wh batteries
View attachment 150225
Have you had any play at the back of the rear shock at all? A few people online seem to have this, but I'm not sure what the cause is. Thankfully I don't have it, but I'm interested whether someone who rides the bike hard like you is getting it?
There was a Canyon at FOD last weekend with a really bad noise coming from the back end. I think it might have been the top end Strive:On, but I'm not 100% sure.
How come you changed from Fox to Rockshox? Looks good. I have a Zeb Ultimate on my analogue bike, but I can't really tell if I prefer it over the Fox 38 or not.
I can't help you in the cut outs, sadly. Are you able to take the bike to a Bosch service centre?
thanks for your answer!So you performed the locktite mod on the upper bracket, and still having power cuts?
You did this?
yeah i did this but the connector itself have same play by himself, at least I´ve noticed this... now I´m unsure if this is coming from riding a lot and hard + switching batteries
no play at all and still on the first bushings, I´m really surprised its like this
I´ve switched RS because i already blew up many X2... sometimes 3-4 services a year, cracks in the housing, so I switched straight to a RS super Deluxe and as RS released the Vivid Coil this was the next step... coil is feeling Incredible good on this bike.
fork is more or less personal preference... I´m running the ZEB without any tokes but with a trutune and this together with the coil is a completely other level
I was already at a bosch service centre because I had one faulty battery which was replaced on warranty but they said more or less its a bit of design thing from Canyon but I will not really agree on this, because it didnt happend the first months
regarding the batteries, I have already the 3rd pair of latches on them because even if you get the version 2, at a certain point they have play, I also have a 3d printed part in this latches that are reinforces the construction... also I´m using cable straps at the bottom latch holder to have a tighter fit of the batteries in general.
The other thing could be that maybe the batteries connector itself is worn out... I would say, its not a warranty thing but I´ll check on this too...
thanks again, will do some more research here but maybe someone who reworked the upper connector with locktide can remember if the connector had someplay in the construction itself
regarding the light, yeah... its getting orange and switches off... i can switch it back on without issues
Nice! Funny enough, I'm running my Zeb the exact same way as you! No tokens and TruTune! I also have a TruTune in my Fox 38.no play at all and still on the first bushings, I´m really surprised its like this
I´ve switched RS because i already blew up many X2... sometimes 3-4 services a year, cracks in the housing, so I switched straight to a RS super Deluxe and as RS released the Vivid Coil this was the next step... coil is feeling Incredible good on this bike.
fork is more or less personal preference... I´m running the ZEB without any tokes but with a trutune and this together with the coil is a completely other level
I was already at a bosch service centre because I had one faulty battery which was replaced on warranty but they said more or less its a bit of design thing from Canyon but I will not really agree on this, because it didnt happend the first months
I've not blown up the X2 yet, but I've done a fraction of the miles you've done and I'm not the most aggressive or heavy rider. I like the look of the Vivid though.
I notice you're still running the XT drivetrain. Are you still running the XT brakes also?
yeah, still on XT drive train and breaks... just moved to bigger and thicker disks in front and rear... breaks are working great for me even if i´m on the heavier side... around 100kg ready to bikeNice! Funny enough, I'm running my Zeb the exact same way as you! No tokens and TruTune! I also have a TruTune in my Fox 38.
I've not blown up the X2 yet, but I've done a fraction of the miles you've done and I'm not the most aggressive or heavy rider. I like the look of the Vivid though.
I notice you're still running the XT drivetrain. Are you still running the XT brakes also?
good thing about XT / Shimano is, it´s relativity cheap and durable... I´m already at my 2nd cassette, 5th chain and 4th derailleur (but i broke 2 during biking
)as said, I really love this bike, it take hits well and handles awesome...
not sure if its allowed here but added just a video of the bike that I have made few month back with clips from the year so far (I´ll remove it when its against the rules
)
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RIDER! DANKE!yeah, still on XT drive train and breaks... just moved to bigger and thicker disks in front and rear... breaks are working great for me even if i´m on the heavier side... around 100kg ready to bike
good thing about XT / Shimano is, it´s relativity cheap and durable... I´m already at my 2nd cassette, 5th chain and 4th derailleur (but i broke 2 during biking
as said, I really love this bike, it take hits well and handles awesome...
not sure if its allowed here but added just a video of the bike that I have made few month back with clips from the year so far (I´ll remove it when its against the rules
Great vid. And nice ink, too. Gotta love a bit of Japanese traditional.
Agreed, the man doesn't hang about!Next time I ride my Stive, I'll stick with Turbo Mode, to ride DH as fast as you
Nice vid! Thanks for sharing!
Cheers
hahaha, thanks guys... regarding the turbo mode...
actually my "red" mode is EMTB with everything maxed BECAUSE you have a longer overboost as in turbo (not sure why bosch did this but yeah... they even say EMTB mode have a longer overboost but i was surprised turbo hasnt the same one during my tests... e.g. you will see that at normal speed a pedal kick will follow with at least one more spin from the drive unit... during downhill you will also notice that in compression where you have the normal pedal kickback, the drive unit gives you more pushs)
my purple is auto, this is a good one for uphills
www.bosch-ebike.com
actually my "red" mode is EMTB with everything maxed BECAUSE you have a longer overboost as in turbo
(not sure why bosch did this but yeah... they even say EMTB mode have a longer overboost but i was surprised turbo hasnt the same one during my tests... e.g. you will see that at normal speed a pedal kick will follow with at least one more spin from the drive unit... during downhill you will also notice that in compression where you have the normal pedal kickback, the drive unit gives you more pushs)my purple is auto, this is a good one for uphills
Riding modes: individually adapted to you
Always optimally supported: the riding modes for eBikes with Bosch drive unit are precisely tailored to you and your eBike.
www.bosch-ebike.com
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Coming back to my power cuts… Connector screws are still tight and no movement… cables looking okay from what I can see in this side of the connection… only thing I have notice is very visible wear of the connectors… you can also feel it when moving over them… not sure if this can lead to this but my 1 year old battery has more power cuts than my new replaced one… the pins inside the batteries have clearly a difference in space…
old battery, connector is barely visible
new battery, connector is good visible
old battery, connector is barely visible
new battery, connector is good visible
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not sure the materials make up of the connector pins but looks like they are/were copper with a harder surface material. That surface material has worn away probably due to arcing. It needs to be replaced because it will not provide a secure connection to the female battery connectors.
Thanks!
Anyone has an idea if we can order this as a sparepart somewhere?
I’m with a Boschshop on Monday anyway but was wondering if I can order this part and replace it by myself. Googled a bit but can’t really find it.
Edit:
I guess it’s this one
Bosch 2-Fach Akku-Adapter Smart System
Über den Bosch Akku-Adapter 2 (BAD2) wird der Akku an Ihrem E-Bike angeschlossen. Der Adapter verfügt dafür über zwei…
www.elektrofahrrad24.de
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