Levo Gen 4 Specialized Gen 4 Levo - Official Thread

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It’s a 200mm mount on the Gen 4 rear, but only a 180mm post mount if you are running the Fox 38 up front. You would need two new adapters. Agree with others who have said you will be running a weird brake bias with that setup. There is a reason cars generally have a larger brake setup in the front. Just buy a 220 for the rear, new 20mm adapter and call it good.
 
Tomroy said:
Mind sharing some of those settings im not getting the best range out of mine currently using ECO at 50/50 about 60% of the time and trail 70/75 feels like less power in these settings than my Bosch gen 3 in EMTB mode and i get more range from the Bosch 750Wh.
Not sure if the soft rear tire (butcher) is affecting this.
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Those settings must drain the battery ridiculously fast. Try these.

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braaten22 said:
More people struggling with drive unit cuts power in and out?

The error in app/turbo studio:
Battery not detected.

This is what we have tryed:
-Changed drive unit
-changed lower battery holder with cable harness
-changed charging port
-changed cable harness TCU
-changed battery

Aften changing battery everything has worked flauwless for 2 weeks and 600km

But today same problem happend again! Error: no battery detected.

Drive unit cuts power on/off

There must be more people out there Having this issues?

So far in Norway i know of 1 more Bike, and 1 in this forum?
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Yep same stuff has been happening to me pretty much since I have owned the bike and been riding it (since April 12th). I already have over 1,000 miles on this bike and it's so annoying. I'm taking it back to my dealer to get him to fix it AGAIN. If I had known I would have gotten a dud, I would have never bought this bike to be honest. However, I do love the bike when it's working. It seems like the battery always gets out of sync when I pedal through compressions. I ride the hell out of the bike, but I'm just an average rider ta best so the bike should be able to handle my average skills. Whenever it happens, I just take the battery out and pop it back in and I'm usually good to go for another 10 minutes or so until I have to do it again. It happens the most when the bike is under 40% battery left.
 
Mikerb said:
for those with power shut down/battery power interuption...................perhaps worth remembering that on the Gen 2 Levos a lot of problems were caused by the battery to motor cable and the cause was that it was a very stiffly constructed cable but had to do a 90 degree bend to fit into the motor connection port. Over time the enclosed wires either shorted or created a high resistance disconnection...................or the way the cable was sealed to its motor end connector plug broke open and allowed water ingress. The replacement cable mostly solved the issue simply by having a far more flexible outer sheath............and clear recommendations how to route the cable. I ordered a new cable but then modified my original cable stripping more the outer sheath to make it more flexible.........replaced with self amalgamating tape.........and aapplied sealant to the end connector. I used that modified cable and kept the replacement as a spare. No problems!!
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It does sound like high resistance disconnection to me when folk describe when it happens on a ride. An example of such a cable fault is the copper core in a wire is broken but still kept partially connected by the insulation. A strong current may still work whilst a weaker current will experience more resistance ...and hard knocks will disturb the cable enough to cause a complete disconnection.
 
Jeff McD said:
Has anyone swapped the 220 mm front rotor to the rear? Wondering if the 200 to 220 adapter can be removed from the fork and used in the rear to put the larger rotor on the back wheel and 200 on the front? My bike shop says the chain stay posts may have a slightly different shape from those on the fork of my comp S4 and it may not be interchangeable. I vaguely remember somebody asking but that would be a lot of pages to check back on.
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It doesn't work. The front adaptor is a +40. You need a +20 for the rear.

IMG_2902.jpeg
 
Hey thanks kntr, exactly what I was looking for, real world experience. Now that I look at my bike I can see from your picture that I should've been able to figure that out. So the front 40mm adapter has to go down to 20 mm to accommodate the 200 mm rear rotor, and another 20mm adapter in the rear for the 220 rotor.
To all the other folks who said this is a weird set up I agree with you 100% but I had a severe spinal injury riding motorcycles in the 70s (Total paralysis from the neck down for one hour w/ yrs of recovery) leading to permanent nerve damage with weakened hand grips, L weaker than R. We have very long descents returning from mountain top Sunday rides so I have adapted to lightly dragging rear brake on the way down with the big 220 rotor so hand grip doesn't completely fade out, and rapidly pulsing the front brake with 200 rotor. Then I don't crash. My thing is all about dusting people on the climbs anyway ever since the cross country racing days in the 90s. I'm still good at that, but only because I have trained the reflexes to deal with max assist settings for shuttle, responsiveness, and overrun. I know, I know, that's cheating! Got range extender on the way so it'll be interesting to see if I blow through the 840W too much and need it for those longer rides.
 
Jeff McD said:
Hey thanks kntr, exactly what I was looking for, real world experience. Now that I look at my bike I can see from your picture that I should've been able to figure that out. So the front 40mm adapter has to go down to 20 mm to accommodate the 200 mm rear rotor, and another 20mm adapter in the rear for the 220 rotor.
To all the other folks who said this is a weird set up I agree with you 100% but I had a severe spinal injury riding motorcycles in the 70s (Total paralysis from the neck down for one hour w/ yrs of recovery) leading to permanent nerve damage with weakened hand grips, L weaker than R. We have very long descents returning from mountain top Sunday rides so I have adapted to lightly dragging rear brake on the way down with the big 220 rotor so hand grip doesn't completely fade out, and rapidly pulsing the front brake with 200 rotor. Then I don't crash. My thing is all about dusting people on the climbs anyway ever since the cross country racing days in the 90s. I'm still good at that, but only because I have trained the reflexes to deal with max assist settings for shuttle, responsiveness, and overrun. I know, I know, that's cheating! Got range extender on the way so it'll be interesting to see if I blow through the 840W too much and need it for those longer rides.
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Just to make is clear and short...

The Fox fork fits a 180 with no adaptor. There is a 40mm adaptor to go to the 220. My gen4 frame is an s3 and has no adaptor in the rear but is a 200. I had to add the 20mm adaptor to get to 220.
 
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I still have a darn rattle I cant not figure out. It seems to be under the screen. I took the swat out and put a towel in the swat bag to hold all the wires in place. I took the screen out and tightened it. I made sure all the cables were wrapped in the velcro piece. I can not figure it out. My next fix is to just take the swat out completely and put a towel in there to hold all the cables under the screen. Anyone figure out the rattle?

Pic for attention. :)

IMG_5597.jpeg
 
Its with high possibility the quick link to your chain in the bottom of the swat tool in the fork 👍 was in my case!

IMG_2283.jpeg
 
Remove the SWAT internal downtube storage. This SWAT makes a lot of noise, I don't even use it anymore. With it, it sounds like the steering box is loose.
 
Does any use power meter from Levo4 on garmin? It looks Garmin get from Levo4
rider average power and from Levo SL motors gets normalized power.
In any case i ride saim trail with saim power input of power on SL and on Levo4 but on garmin get different numbers 🤔
Does anybody have any experience
 
I did one of my favorite rides today. I use to have 60-65% battery on my gen3 Levos at the top. It's about a 3500 ft vert climb. Today I had 71% on my gen4. I used mostly Eco and auto-. I had a few burts of Turbo. I finished the day with 5100 ft vertical and 29% battery left. I can live with that. It's defiantly better than my gen2 and gen3 Levos and Ive had 8.

IMG_3246.jpeg IMG_3247.jpeg
 
Jeff McD said:
To all the other folks who said this is a weird set up I agree with you 100%
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Ive been running a 220 rear since beginning of Jan for 318,000' of descent. Its a great mod and very useful if you are dropping down 500'-1000' canyons 2 X or 3 X or 4X a day. On these bikes because of the weight if you start riding fast you need all the help you can get front and rear. I use scram hs2 is it? because their 2mm thick. Shimano sucks for ebikes because you wear through the 1.8mm rotors like crazy. I use Bucklos cheap pads from aliexpress at $3.80 a pair. I buy 10 to 20 pairs at a time. Their pads are softer and do not eat the rotors as quick. I get about 400-500 miles out of pads, and replace rears 2 for every front. 220 is the way to go if you ride aggressive or ride at a fast pace in hilly country
 
Winford said:
Ive been running a 220 rear since beginning of Jan for 318,000' of descent. Its a great mod and very useful if you are dropping down 500'-1000' canyons 2 X or 3 X or 4X a day. On these bikes because of the weight if you start riding fast you need all the help you can get front and rear. I use scram hs2 is it? because their 2mm thick. Shimano sucks for ebikes because you wear through the 1.8mm rotors like crazy. I use Bucklos cheap pads from aliexpress at $3.80 a pair. I buy 10 to 20 pairs at a time. Their pads are softer and do not eat the rotors as quick. I get about 400-500 miles out of pads, and replace rears 2 for every front. 220 is the way to go if you ride aggressive or ride at a fast pace in hilly country
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Yup, my experience also. Much less arm pump on these ultra long fast descents with better control of speed and modulation with the mavens than my old shimano deore brakes.
 
Anyone had to have a new motor yet? Mines in at the moment after about 6 weeks of use. Developed quite a noticeable rattle and gets ridiculously hot when climbing.
 
Kangaroo46 said:
Anyone had to have a new motor yet? Mines in at the moment after about 6 weeks of use. Developed quite a noticeable rattle and gets ridiculously hot when climbing.
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My S-Works is at the shop now for a motor replacement. On downhills my motor sounded like a Shimano motor. so much rattling. They gave me a demo sworks to use while mine is being repaired and it is significantly quieter.
 
Starocca said:
My S-Works is at the shop now for a motor replacement. On downhills my motor sounded like a Shimano motor. so much rattling. They gave me a demo sworks to use while mine is being repaired and it is significantly quieter.
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Good start for Specialized :)...maybe there will be another problem with their engines. I was already in store to order the cheapest version two weeks ago, but when I found out that it will only be in September. I ordered Cube Hybrid One77, which is over 2000€ cheaper. It is also mullet, 170/170 removable battery, carbon front, and in next month Bosch will release a display in frame with USB C... It's not the quality of Spec (in terms of frame refinement), but the rest is comparable, and price is much lower.
So my adventure with Specialized is probably over, and my next E-bike will probably be DJI anyway :)
 
Starocca said:
My S-Works is at the shop now for a motor replacement. On downhills my motor sounded like a Shimano motor. so much rattling. They gave me a demo sworks to use while mine is being repaired and it is significantly quieter.
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That’s what mine has gone like. Hopefully I’ll get the same outcome
 
Mine is just over 1.000km of rought trails and tough climbings, so far so good. Changing the rear tire this week, maxxis DHR 2.4 ready to go.
 
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