Levo Gen 4 Specialized Gen 4 Levo - Official Thread

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Wow, first ride on gen 4 comp yesterday, wet muddy conditions, stock except tubeless, w/ Xpedo Spry flat pedals (have not weighed it). So impressive! Got used to the increased size of the downtube long ago and it is not a negative for me at all. Looks like a powerful muscle bike to me so I love it! Orange is my least favorite color so I ordered the pink champagne and it actually is quite beautiful with matte finish & black accents. It's not a girly pink.

Anyone who says Specialized butcher tires are rubbish simply has not ridden these latest versions and is passing on old news. We have extremely slippery conditions with wet, off-camber roots/greasy rocks most days of the year. Both front and rear butchers absolutely grabbed everything, and with impressive damping at very low pressures. I traded out the oem butchers on my ’22 GEN 3 for Michelin E Wilds, but these tires are fantastic and an improvement over the Michelin's. Going to keep them for sure. Was also planning to trade these tires out because I've gravitated to wider 2.6 front/2.8 rear E Wild tires in the last two years , but these 2.3's work so well they have made a believer out of me.

Electronic shifting is new for me and is a dream. So good. Maven brakes are astoundingly good. Not getting much hand fatigue on long downhills. Rare pedal strike, compared to many more on gen 3. S4 really benefits from 155 mm crank arms. Going to put them on my gen3 for sure which I'm saving for my son-in-law.

72kg kitted, 183cm, 210psi Genie shock, 75psi Fox 36, no changes to oem neutral head angle, short chainstay and shock adjuster, left all 3 of them as they came out of the box.

I simply was not aware of the weight of this bike when I was moving. The bike is so well balanced. But the software/firmware is the real winner, completely natural. I have a vicious need for speed and am used to riding in turbo everywhere (even downhill for charging the short ups), eco 40/100, trail 70/100, turbo 100/100, shuttle medium, responsiveness slow, and overrun default. I was amazed at how much better the increased power is. No surprises as it rolls on. Can climb things that I often failed or really struggled with on gen 3. It's like you start to climb expecting to have to really dig deep at some point, then you finnish and realize wow didn't need to! Traction control is an amazing improvement. You get to the place where you expect to hear the rear begin scratching as it threatens to slip and then it just doesn't happen. Understand, we have very few trails to ride where I live and so I know every inch of these like the back of my hand. On longer weekend rides, will use Eco more to get better range. Range extender not available right now, coming in July, and can't wait to try riding with just that on my shorter, race pace Thurs. rides followed by 2 hours of trail work.

Whipped battery out with my trusty screwdriver handle Bondhus 5mm before loading it up & then immediately after the ride. Amazing how easy it is with battery out to load in truck, put up on bike stand. Going to find some sort of security for the battery cover bolt for shopping trips.

No wonder this bike won the 25 E-bike shoot out comparison online @ E-Mountain Bike website after being beat out by Merida and Orbea the past three years. Gotta say, after all the negative complaints online I was worried that I would not like it. Not a chance! Really a big step up, not just a minor improvement. Definitely for aggressive riders especially, but also for beginners when they make a mistake, start to shoot off the trail, and need to correct quickly without dabbing. It's like, "you think it, it does it, almost before you realize it".

Also, on gen 3 I had to steepen the head angle to the max (+1 headset cup setting)to get it to turn in easily on our tight, insanely slippery, rooty turns. This does it beautifully in oem neutral head angle setting.

Right out of the box it rides like a winner. Highly recommended.
 
6x times today in 3h ride. 🥴🫣😐

PXL_20250615_080414704.jpg PXL_20250615_080418087.jpg
 
Exactly sa
exactly same as i struggle with!

Here is what i have done so far:

1 error code:
HMI L4-D-HMI-2
The connection between the battery and the TCD-W got interrupted.

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on

Troubleshooting:
Checked all plugs and cables. No signs of loose contacts or corrosion.
Reassembled and the problem persisted

2 error code:
-HMI L4-D-HMI-2
The connection between the battery and the TCD-W got interrupted.
-BIKE L4-D-BE-16
The Bike detected a battery communication error during the ride

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on

Troubleshooting:
Checked all plugs and cables. No signs of loose contacts or corrosion.
Replaced cable set between TCD and lower nest.
Adjusted lower nest (lower battery mount) according to turbo studio instructions.
Reassembled and the problem persisted.

3 error code:
-HMI L4-D-HMI-2
The connection between the battery and the TCD-W got interrupted.
-BIKE L4-D-BE-16
The Bike detected a battery communication error during the ride

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on

Troubleshooting:
Removed lower nest(lower battery mount) and replaced this.
Removed charging connector and replaced this.Removed drive unit and replaced this.

4 error code
No battery detected red screen in top tube and bike turns off

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on before turning off completely.

Troubleshooting:
Changed to new battery, bike feels significantly more powerful and has now worked flawlessly for 50 miles.until yesterday.

5 error code
No battery detected red screen in top tube and bike turns off

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts on/off before turning off completely.

Troubleshooting:
?
 
Exactly sa

exactly same as i struggle with!

Here is what i have done so far:

1 error code:
HMI L4-D-HMI-2
The connection between the battery and the TCD-W got interrupted.

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on

Troubleshooting:
Checked all plugs and cables. No signs of loose contacts or corrosion.
Reassembled and the problem persisted

2 error code:
-HMI L4-D-HMI-2
The connection between the battery and the TCD-W got interrupted.
-BIKE L4-D-BE-16
The Bike detected a battery communication error during the ride

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on

Troubleshooting:
Checked all plugs and cables. No signs of loose contacts or corrosion.
Replaced cable set between TCD and lower nest.
Adjusted lower nest (lower battery mount) according to turbo studio instructions.
Reassembled and the problem persisted.

3 error code:
-HMI L4-D-HMI-2
The connection between the battery and the TCD-W got interrupted.
-BIKE L4-D-BE-16
The Bike detected a battery communication error during the ride

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on

Troubleshooting:
Removed lower nest(lower battery mount) and replaced this.
Removed charging connector and replaced this.Removed drive unit and replaced this.

4 error code
No battery detected red screen in top tube and bike turns off

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts off/on before turning off completely.

Troubleshooting:
Changed to new battery, bike feels significantly more powerful and has now worked flawlessly for 50 miles.until yesterday.

5 error code
No battery detected red screen in top tube and bike turns off

Symptom:
Drive unit power cuts on/off before turning off completely.

Troubleshooting:
?
You get this info from turbo studio app whic have it in bikeshop? Because i dont have nothing in Specialized app on phone.
 
44 km and 1,650 m of elevation gain with 55% battery life.
Mainly ECO 10/20 and AUTO - for steep climbs.
This range is simply impossible with a Gen3. The Gen4 pedals incredibly with little assistance.
The frame/suspension balance puts the previous model to shame.
I'm VERY HAPPY with the new bike!

View attachment 162437
Well this looks to be a very low pace ride ... For example yesterday I did 55km and about 620m of climb in about 2,5 hours, mostly in Eco and used only 25% of the battery ... So with such a low pace and low support making around 100km and ~1200m of climb in about 5 hours and still have about 50% battery left must be in theroy achievable even with Gen3 ... And my ride was with Gen2.
 
Maybe a silly question, but why 80% charge max ?
To add, this option is standard/common for lithium batteries. Google's Pixel phones now have an option to only charge to 80% if you want to optimize battery life.

Also helpful for long-term storage. As an example, if you have a lithium battery that needs to be stored over the long winter, 80% charge allows the battery to maintain it's charge longer while minimizing a large drop in cell voltage (which is bad for battery health). Some power tools sold in the U.S. (e.g., Ego) have smart lithium batteries where after a period of non-use, the battery will automatically self-discharge to 80% to protect itself.
 
For long term storage I would recommend 40-60% SoC and checking it every couple of months and recharge if necessary.
 
Could anyone tell me roughly what the insertible length is please on the seat tube on the S2 Alloy please.
My wife's seat post is a little too high from shop and before scratching the life out her her X Fusion seat post i wanted to check there was room to drop the post down.
I have looked at spec sheets but cannot see this dimension.
Thanks.
 
Could anyone tell me roughly what the insertible length is please on the seat tube on the S2 Alloy please.
My wife's seat post is a little too high from shop and before scratching the life out her her X Fusion seat post i wanted to check there was room to drop the post down.
I have looked at spec sheets but cannot see this dimension.
Thanks.
Its on the website, however just push the seatpost down as far as you need to.


IMG_1374.png
 
for those with power shut down/battery power interuption...................perhaps worth remembering that on the Gen 2 Levos a lot of problems were caused by the battery to motor cable and the cause was that it was a very stiffly constructed cable but had to do a 90 degree bend to fit into the motor connection port. Over time the enclosed wires either shorted or created a high resistance disconnection...................or the way the cable was sealed to its motor end connector plug broke open and allowed water ingress. The replacement cable mostly solved the issue simply by having a far more flexible outer sheath............and clear recommendations how to route the cable. I ordered a new cable but then modified my original cable stripping more the outer sheath to make it more flexible.........replaced with self amalgamating tape.........and aapplied sealant to the end connector. I used that modified cable and kept the replacement as a spare. No problems!!
 
"This review brought to you by Specialized marketing department...
I'm sure it's genuine and you're just excited about your new bike but it just reads like someone asked chagpt to write a review based on the Levo 4 marketing material."

Ha ha, good one. I just didn't expect it to be that much better than my GEN 3 from so many negative comments on the Internet and I got carried away. Had buyers remorse as soon as I placed the order with my bike shop and was considering buying an Amflow instead, but now I'm glad I stuck with this. I do think it's critical to keep trying to different assist settings in the app to make sure you get the most out of this bike for your particular riding style and trails. My bike felt like a step backwards at first with the default settings. It suddenly came alive when I got them right.
 
"This review brought to you by Specialized marketing department...
I'm sure it's genuine and you're just excited about your new bike but it just reads like someone asked chagpt to write a review based on the Levo 4 marketing material."

Ha ha, good one. I just didn't expect it to be that much better than my GEN 3 from so many negative comments on the Internet and I got carried away. Had buyers remorse as soon as I placed the order with my bike shop and was considering buying an Amflow instead, but now I'm glad I stuck with this. I do think it's critical to keep trying to different assist settings in the app to make sure you get the most out of this bike for your particular riding style and trails. My bike felt like a step backwards at first with the default settings. It suddenly came alive when I got them right.
Mind sharing some of those settings im not getting the best range out of mine currently using ECO at 50/50 about 60% of the time and trail 70/75 feels like less power in these settings than my Bosch gen 3 in EMTB mode and i get more range from the Bosch 750Wh.
Not sure if the soft rear tire (butcher) is affecting this.
 
Mind sharing some of those settings im not getting the best range out of mine currently using ECO at 50/50 about 60% of the time and trail 70/75 feels like less power in these settings than my Bosch gen 3 in EMTB mode and i get more range from the Bosch 750Wh.
Not sure if the soft rear tire (butcher) is affecting this.
Well my settings are for very aggressive riding using a lot of battery so they won't help you. I did list them in my original post above. I have even bumped the shuttle up to highest setting since that post. So I'm not looking for range. The softer tires definitely do cut down on range.
 
Mind sharing some of those settings im not getting the best range out of mine currently using ECO at 50/50 about 60% of the time and trail 70/75 feels like less power in these settings than my Bosch gen 3 in EMTB mode and i get more range from the Bosch 750Wh.
Not sure if the soft rear tire (butcher) is affecting this.
If you liked Bosch emtb mode, maybe try auto - (minus) for better range
 
Has anyone swapped the 220 mm front rotor to the rear? Wondering if the 200 to 220 adapter can be removed from the fork and used in the rear to put the larger rotor on the back wheel and 200 on the front? My bike shop says the chain stay posts may have a slightly different shape from those on the fork of my comp S4 and it may not be interchangeable. I vaguely remember somebody asking but that would be a lot of pages to check back on.
 
Has anyone swapped the 220 mm front rotor to the rear? Wondering if the 200 to 220 adapter can be removed from the fork and used in the rear to put the larger rotor on the back wheel and 200 on the front? My bike shop says the chain stay posts may have a slightly different shape from those on the fork of my comp S4 and it may not be interchangeable. I vaguely remember somebody asking but that would be a lot of pages to check back on.
I'm pretty sure it would be fine. The question is why however? I could understand buying an extra adapter and disc so you have 220 front and rear but just swapping so you have 220 on the back and 200 on the front seems a bit redundant to me.
 
Has anyone swapped the 220 mm front rotor to the rear? Wondering if the 200 to 220 adapter can be removed from the fork and used in the rear to put the larger rotor on the back wheel and 200 on the front? My bike shop says the chain stay posts may have a slightly different shape from those on the fork of my comp S4 and it may not be interchangeable. I vaguely remember somebody asking but that would be a lot of pages to check back on.

Why? This is an unusual thing to want.
 
Why? This is an unusual thing to want.
It kind of makes sense I think... to have a larger rotor at the back ... I suppose it depends on your riding style ... I think a lot of people will drag the back brake on log decents... the larger rotor on the back will cool quicker ... I dont think it is a power thing... more a cooling thing ...

Personally I like the larger on the front as I am a heavy front brake user.
 
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