Shimano battery in frame 504w stuck and won’t release!
- Thread starter E-Bandit
- Start date
my BM-e8031 broke as well, the allen bolt would rotate all around and would not release the battery. this how i sorted that. i hope it will help future "victims" of this wonderful shimano engineering trap. i have unscrewed the battery cover / protector and start sliding flat objects between the battery and the upper moun unit to compress the latch. i have used a sharp pry to pry away the flat metal spring on the battery to create a narrow hole so the object could fit in. problem was all of them have been hitting the flat part of the latch.
additionaly the blades would start twisting and bending upon pressure, i figured out i need something very firm with a bend at the end so that i would hit the sloping part of the latch and compress it. This IKEA fork have done the job sumpremely:
after the battery released i unscrewed the BM-e8031 upper mount releasing mechanism to find that the protrusion on the excentric part screwed on the allen bolt got broken. i have drilled and cut an M3 thread and put a bolt, whose head, although lower than the original protrusion, releases the the latch / battery when turing 1/4. untill i get a replacement part i have to be carefull not to overturn which would displace the spring, but i have a working solution before i get the replacement part:
additionaly the blades would start twisting and bending upon pressure, i figured out i need something very firm with a bend at the end so that i would hit the sloping part of the latch and compress it. This IKEA fork have done the job sumpremely:
after the battery released i unscrewed the BM-e8031 upper mount releasing mechanism to find that the protrusion on the excentric part screwed on the allen bolt got broken. i have drilled and cut an M3 thread and put a bolt, whose head, although lower than the original protrusion, releases the the latch / battery when turing 1/4. untill i get a replacement part i have to be carefull not to overturn which would displace the spring, but i have a working solution before i get the replacement part:
Glad I found this thread, it's the same problem I described here recently:
Heckler battery release key is loose
I recently wanted to release my battery and wondered why the hex screw had no grip. I removed the cover and found loose parts (spring, rod and rocker). I contacted SC and they sent me a brief instruction how to install rod and rocker again - but to do this, I need to remove the battery. But how...
www.emtbforums.com
I tried your solution with the fork today, but to no avail. I managed to get the fork between the upper unit and the flat metal blade of
the battery (marked in red), but obviously I didn't get to push down that "tooth" to release it. Am I doing it wrong? Did you try more from the side?
you might not have gone deep enough. not measuring now, but its 5-6 cm, also make sure you have the bend facing the right side, that is bending towards the battery.Glad I found this thread, it's the same problem I described here recently:
Heckler battery release key is loose
I recently wanted to release my battery and wondered why the hex screw had no grip. I removed the cover and found loose parts (spring, rod and rocker). I contacted SC and they sent me a brief instruction how to install rod and rocker again - but to do this, I need to remove the battery. But how...
I tried your solution with the fork today, but to no avail. I managed to get the fork between the upper unit and the flat metal blade of
the battery (marked in red), but obviously I didn't get to push down that "tooth" to release it. Am I doing it wrong? Did you try more from the side?
Oh my gosh, thank you internet. I now managed to get the battery out with the small fork.
I made some pictures to show exactly how far you have to go and how much bend the fork needs in order to clear the flat part of the tooth.
This is the fork, after I bended it even more than yesterday, it worked like a charm first try.
It's around 4,5 cm from that plastic nose to the flat part of the release tooth.
As you can see, the fork needs to have quite some bend to get past the flat part.
So now I have to unscrew the top bracket and reassemble the spring, rod and rocker, which are still intact.
Only the set-screw has been lost, but eTK replaced it with a normal bolt (M3?), so I guess that shouldn't be a problem.
I hope this will help everyone having the same problem, so they don't have to destroy the lock.
I made some pictures to show exactly how far you have to go and how much bend the fork needs in order to clear the flat part of the tooth.
This is the fork, after I bended it even more than yesterday, it worked like a charm first try.
It's around 4,5 cm from that plastic nose to the flat part of the release tooth.
As you can see, the fork needs to have quite some bend to get past the flat part.
So now I have to unscrew the top bracket and reassemble the spring, rod and rocker, which are still intact.
Only the set-screw has been lost, but eTK replaced it with a normal bolt (M3?), so I guess that shouldn't be a problem.
I hope this will help everyone having the same problem, so they don't have to destroy the lock.
w2ge
Member
In your picture of where the hex key is inserted it looks like a portion of the that female “socket/ lock” is totally cracked off, Yes?
Richt20000
Active member
What an absolutely crap system.
with my ebike there was no leaflet / sticker / anything to tell you how to remove. I naturally turned the bolt anticlockwise, not much force either, heard a snap, and a tiny little piece of cast metal fell out.
lock seems to work ok but now I’m paranoid the battery will fall out / rattle / start not letting me get the battery out.
all it needed was a sticker showing 1/4clockwise turn to remove! Very bad user design...
with my ebike there was no leaflet / sticker / anything to tell you how to remove. I naturally turned the bolt anticlockwise, not much force either, heard a snap, and a tiny little piece of cast metal fell out.
lock seems to work ok but now I’m paranoid the battery will fall out / rattle / start not letting me get the battery out.
all it needed was a sticker showing 1/4clockwise turn to remove! Very bad user design...
w2ge
Member
Couldn‘t agree more… Especially that its an Allen key leads one to think it’s just ‘screwed in’; as you said if only there was a simple sticker showing 1/4 turn clockwise to release.. how hard is that!?
Lockey
Member
Mine is broken too! I’m sure it was broken before I even touched it. It amazes me how these components even pass any tests before production.
Dave.B
Member
Same problem with my Nukeproof. 10 days old, first attempt to remove the battery, turned the bolt clockwise and it just goes round and round.
Dealer's response, "its broke". We will replace it at a charge of £70 but will fit it for free. Just posted complaint to the manufacturer see how that works.
But in the meantime a quick modification so I can charge & store the battery in the house.
Drilled out and pressed pin in place, permanent thread lock paste added to be absolutely sure.
Dealer's response, "its broke". We will replace it at a charge of £70 but will fit it for free. Just posted complaint to the manufacturer see how that works.
But in the meantime a quick modification so I can charge & store the battery in the house.
Drilled out and pressed pin in place, permanent thread lock paste added to be absolutely sure.
milfredo
New Member
The Nuke proof website says to turn the bolt clockwise and this happened to mine first time! I didn't even need to remove the battery, I was just fiddling about.
Dave.B
Member
Nukeproof reply: "All issues with warranty will need to go through your dealer who should work with the distributor in order to have any issues resolved for you"
Shimano suggested to try another dealer, they might be more sympathetic.
How does this help?
Dealer not interested.
Bike sold, money in business account, thank you and goodbye.
Shimano suggested to try another dealer, they might be more sympathetic.
How does this help?
Dealer not interested.
Bike sold, money in business account, thank you and goodbye.
You could tell them that you're rejecting the bike as not fit for purpose? May buck their ideas up a little?
Dave.B
Member
Considered going down that route, but I do like the bike.
Also used my credit card for part payment to give me some wriggle room if needed for any major issue.
Would definitely like the release mechanism replaced as a matter of principle. As it's unknown as to how the damage happen would be prepared to pay 50% .
Dave.B
Member
That's the sort of response I would expect from a dealer.
I'm about 15 miles away from Winstanleys Bikes, it's one dealer I have never visited.
The repair I made is working fine plus I made a copy just in case.
Just disappointed in the lack of support provided by the dealership.
I'm about 15 miles away from Winstanleys Bikes, it's one dealer I have never visited.
The repair I made is working fine plus I made a copy just in case.
Just disappointed in the lack of support provided by the dealership.
Dave.B
Member
I went back to the dealer for more discussions on the "broken release mechanism", this time a positive response. As a good will gesture we will replace it F.O.C. The part has now been fitted & everything is spot on.
Downhillr
Active member
In my literature received with my Bullit it had instruction on the 1/4 turn, etc.. did yours not change me with that info?
Downhillr
Active member
Geez Apple-Spell:
change me = come
Downhillr
Active member
Sorry, Apple Spell:
change me = come
thechanbara
New Member
A quick thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread! I've had exactly the same issue with my 10mth old canyon spectral and have fixed it by following the advice on here. To Canyon's credit their support was pretty good and they were happy to pay up to £100 to get the issue diagnosed by a local bike shop, took it to a usually very trustworthy EMTB shop but they couldn't get the battery out...
In the end a teaspoon handle did the job! Similar issue, grub screw had fallen out never to be seen again but I've replaced with a small bolt and all is well once more. What a poor design...
Thanks again everyone!!
In the end a teaspoon handle did the job! Similar issue, grub screw had fallen out never to be seen again but I've replaced with a small bolt and all is well once more. What a poor design...
Thanks again everyone!!
Was there any knack to this? Battery stuck in my Spectral:ON too and cant get it to release. Shimano Service Centre in Bike Park Wales can't get it out and I'm not keen on drilling into the mechanism if I can help it. What a nightmare.
Thanks, still no luck with the spoon. I get it in 4.5cm can hear and feel the end hit something sprung and metal and nothing. No amount of wiggling will release the battery?
w2ge
Member
If you really get stuck, and I know you don’t want to have to drill it out… but, it’s really not bad at all. If you look back in this thread, I and others have exact details to safely get your battery out.
Last edited:
You are hitting the flat part of the „tooth“ that holds the battery. That means you need to give your spoon more bend in order to clear it. I know it can be hard to bend a spoon like this (unless you are Uri Geller), but it will work once the spoon bends down enough to get past the flat part. You can they to wiggle the spoon upwards, so the end of the spoon gets down more.
acook7
Member
Thank you with all your help with this I have just come across this post and manage to un stick my MT Bromo battery.
Anthony2505
New Member
Do you still have this? Are u willing to sell?
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