Check that those tiny cap head screws(in the slotted holes) are nipped up too,both Mine came out on a ride
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Where did you get the replacement from? Trying to get one on warranty nothing for 2 weeksThx for your help, got it done. I did it by drilling "into" the lock. Lock was definitely messed up inside.
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I managed to remove my battery with the fork method. I then took out the upper mount plate and removed the lock mechanism as it was FBAR. Now I can insert a small flathead screw driver to depress the latch and release the battery. See pic below. Pain in the ass getting the battery out the first time. Replacement upper mount in $120 AUD and is currently out of stock. Trusty screw driver will have to do for now.Sweet, gotcha, Thanks. Now I’ve got to get Canyon or someone to send me that Shimano lock mechanism. (Even if I have to pay for it). I’m going to comb over all the manuals looking for directions on using that key, if I can’t find any I think I have a good argument that Canyon should send a free replacement? Thoughts?

You're a legend mate! Will give your instructions a go later. I gave up yesterday after having now luck trying to get my battery out!!!my BM-e8031 broke as well, the allen bolt would rotate all around and would not release the battery. this how i sorted that. i hope it will help future "victims" of this wonderful shimano engineering trap. i have unscrewed the battery cover / protector and start sliding flat objects between the battery and the upper moun unit to compress the latch. i have used a sharp pry to pry away the flat metal spring on the battery to create a narrow hole so the object could fit in. problem was all of them have been hitting the flat part of the latch.
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additionaly the blades would start twisting and bending upon pressure, i figured out i need something very firm with a bend at the end so that i would hit the sloping part of the latch and compress it. This IKEA fork have done the job sumpremely:
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after the battery released i unscrewed the BM-e8031 upper mount releasing mechanism to find that the protrusion on the excentric part screwed on the allen bolt got broken. i have drilled and cut an M3 thread and put a bolt, whose head, although lower than the original protrusion, releases the the latch / battery when turing 1/4. untill i get a replacement part i have to be carefull not to overturn which would displace the spring, but i have a working solution before i get the replacement part:
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l've got a spare battery lock mechanism if anyone needs one.Spent an hour or two last night trying the fork/spoon/knife method with no luck. No matter how much I bent the tool I couldn't get it to go in beyond 20mm. I suspect dirt built up at the bottom of the battery had closed the top gap up too tight.
So this morning inspired by the above video I made a tool from a piece of stiff steel rod with opposing 90degree bends at each end. A short end with a chisel shape ground on it and a long end to use as a handle for twisting. Took less than five mins to make after finding some suitable rod.
Inserted the tool from the non-drive side as in the video and found I could get my little finger in the gap at the other side to feel the top of the latch and guide the end of the tool under the lifting tab. A twist of the handle and I could feel the latch lift and the battery was out within fifteen minutes of going into the shed.
My friends eMTB had the same issue and I used this method to release the battery. I also found if I rotated the latch lifting arm 90 degrees, I could use the larger cam to open the latch (seems to work better). I new hole provides an emergency access to open the latch. Reset the limit stops, but did not repair the spring since the latch is spring loaded.Thx for your help, got it done. I did it by drilling "into" the lock. Lock was definitely messed up inside.
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Do you still have the spare battery lock mechanism?l've got a spare battery lock mechanism if anyone needs one.