Nice,
did you have trouble fitting the shock, or did you use any offset bushings?
I want to increase my shock to 150 mm and front 160 mm, but still like to continue full 29er.
Rise Up - What are your upgrades?
- Thread starter Bigkatoomer
- Start date
did you have trouble fitting the shock, or did you use any offset bushings?
I want to increase my shock to 150 mm and front 160 mm, but still like to continue full 29er.
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Actually, the XTR cassette is quite a bit lighter than the SLX (about 170 grams). Not sure it is worth the extra cost, but it most definitely is significantly lighter.
My bike has arrived here a list off all my upgrades
Ext era fork 150
Ext storia coil 140
SRAM xx1 axs
Rockshox axs dropper
Industry nine 305 wheels
Cushcore xc front and rear
Kogel oversized jockey wheels plus cage gold and black
Shimano em900 cranks 165
DMR SL vaults hold and black
Enve carbon bar 35 rise
Revgrips
Industry nine stem gold/black
Trp dhr evo gold limited edition brakes
Chris king drop set headset
Trp r1 rotors 203 front and back
EDC head set mini tool
Mrp chain guide
Burgtec Shimano crank bolts gold
Xx1 12speed gold cassette plus gold chain
Ergon saddle
Wolftooth gold seat clamp
Wolftooth hold headset spacers
I think that’s everything
Ext era fork 150
Ext storia coil 140
SRAM xx1 axs
Rockshox axs dropper
Industry nine 305 wheels
Cushcore xc front and rear
Kogel oversized jockey wheels plus cage gold and black
Shimano em900 cranks 165
DMR SL vaults hold and black
Enve carbon bar 35 rise
Revgrips
Industry nine stem gold/black
Trp dhr evo gold limited edition brakes
Chris king drop set headset
Trp r1 rotors 203 front and back
EDC head set mini tool
Mrp chain guide
Burgtec Shimano crank bolts gold
Xx1 12speed gold cassette plus gold chain
Ergon saddle
Wolftooth gold seat clamp
Wolftooth hold headset spacers
I think that’s everything
What no frame protection?
Oh forgot to mention yes invisframe has been fitted
Impressive list. How are the shimano em900 crank arms? Any better than stock e13?
Rod B.
Well-known member
Hello, I'm new to the electric bike world. I recently purchased an Orbea Rise M20. I am an admitted bike tech nerd and I dig working on bikes.
In October 2019, I had a bad crash and literally destroyed my right ankle.
The doctors initially wanted to amputate my foot. I couldn't walk for 19 months. In October of 2020, doctors did some Six Million Dollar Man stuff and 3D computer printed a new ankle. The 3D printing was used to make a titanium ankle which they installed in November of 2020. In January of this year, I started walking again. In April, I began riding my mountain bike, a Yeti SB130. I put about 500 miles on the bike, but it's been a rough go. My ankle will never be 100% and my cardio suffered from 19 months of not walking. I finally threw in the towel and purchased the Rise M20. I tell people it's like waking up one morning and you realize you can fly. I can ride with my buddies again.
At the time of my crash, my Yeti was only ten months old. The parts from my Yeti are a direct swap cross over to the Rise, this includes the cut steerer tube length on my Yeti's front fork.
All Rise models have the same carbon frame, motor and battery. The only difference between models is the component level. Unfortunately, Orbea does not sell a bare Rise frame. I decided upon the cheapest Rise model, the Rise M20 to swap my Yeti's parts onto.
Here are the specifications on my now custom Rise:
Weight 41 pounds
1. Handlebar: OneUp Carbon, 35mm x 800mm
2. Stem: OneUp 50mm
3. Headset: Chris King
4. Grips: Ergon GA2 grips
5. Brakes: (Front & Rear): SRAM G2
6. Rotors: (Front & Rear): SRAM Centerline, Centerlock, 200mm
7. Fork: Fox Factory FIT4 36mm, 150mm, 44mm offset, with Wolf Tooth straight axle
8. Wheelset: Ibis 935 Carbon, Sapim CX-Ray Spokes, brass nipples, Industry Nine Torch Hubs, SRAM XD driver
9. Front Tire: Maxxis 2.4, Minion DHF, Maxterra, EXO casing
10. Rear Tire: Maxxis 2.4, Dissector, Maxterra, EXO casing
11. Dropper: Orbea 150mm dropper post
12. Wolf Tooth Dropper Lever
13. Saddle: Fizik Taiga S-Alloy
14. Rear Shock: 2022 Fox Float X 210mm x 55mm
15. Shifter & Rear Derailleur: SRAM GX AXS
16. Cassette: SRAM XO1 10-52 cassette
17. Chain: SRAM XO1 Eagle
Mint Green Fox Heritage stickers match perfectly
Gear choice explanation and technical details:
Front Fork:
I'd initially considered swapping out my FIT4 dampener for a GRIP2. I decided against this as it would add more weight to the bike. If I were Richie Rude, I'd get the GRIP2. I'm not Richie Rude.
Rear Shock:
One of the issues I had when I got back on my bike was my weight gain. At the time of my accident, I was 6'1" and weighed 172 pounds. When I got back on my bike 19 months later, I weighed 215 pounds. In order to get the correct sag at 215 pounds, plus my pack, I had to pump up the air pressure and mess with volume spacers. This made my bike ride harsh. I don't think the Fox DPX2 rear shock is ideally suited for heavy riders. It's a good shock, just not for heavy people.
Fox recently released the 2022, Fox Float X. The new Float X has a larger air volume can and larger piston. The Float X fits perfectly on the Rise. To get the correct sag, much less air is needed with the Float X due to the larger air can and piston. The Float X is much more supple and the shock lockout/firm mode is firmer than the DPX2. Big people rejoice. I could have gone with another shock, air springs, etc. They all would have worked nicely, however my goal was to keep the bike's weight down as much as possible. If I need to push the Rise up a technical section, I need the bike to be light due to my ankle.
Brake Rotors:
The Rise M20 comes with Deore two piston brake calipers and 180mm brake rotors. On a black diamond technical downhill section, them puppies turn blue. Not wanting to "break" my other ankle, see what I did there? I decided to upgrade to 200mm rotors and use my fairly new SRAM G2 calipers. My wheelset is setup for centerlock brake rotors. Refer to the picture above with green arrow.
The United States sets the maximum speed in which an eBike can provide power at 20 MPH. To accomplish this, Orbea installed a Shimano speed sensor pickup on the inside of the swingarm and a Shimano brake rotor with magnet built into the rotor arm. As the rotor spins, the magnet crosses the speed sensor pickup on the swingarm. The faster the speed, the faster the magnet will cycle over the speed sensor pickup. The sensor will trigger the motor to stop producing power at 20 mph. There's math somewhere in the calculation, my head hurts...
Not knowing jack about eBikes, I initially purchased SRAM 200mm centerlock rotors and the correct 180mm to 200mm brake caliper adapters. I turned my Rise on and it immediately red lighted and wouldn't work. It was then that I discovered the world of speed sensor pickups.
SRAM does not make a rotor with magnet. I looked for centerlock rotor magnet adapters that would allow me to convert my SRAM rotors to magnet. While there are six bolt rotor magnet adapters, there isn't much out there for centerlock rotors. Specialized does make a centerlock locking ring with built in magnet. I bought one, tried it, it didn't work. The thing to note here is that the magnet must pass across the center of the speed sensor pickup. Not to one side or the other, but the center. Magnet location on the rotor is critical.
I gave up and purchased a Shimano 203mm ice tech rotor for the rear with built in magnet. The Shimano rotor did work with my SRAM G2 calipers, however the holes in Shimano rotors are much bigger than SRAM centerline rotor holes. I found that after three rides, my new rear brake pads were almost down to the metal. I think this is because the large holes in the Shimano rotor tended to shave off the SRAM pad material.
So now I'm back to using my SRAM rotors. I came across a thread in which people discussed placing a small Neodymium rare earth magnet on their brake rotor. I purchased a 3mm thick x 8mm round neodymium magnet set on Amazon. These are very powerful magnets. I placed the neodymium magnet on the SRAM rotor in the same spot where the Shimano magnet was located. As an added precaution, I added 3M superglue around the magnet to insure it didn't fly off. It works like a charm. I have about ten rides on the rotor, much of it on black diamond trails. I do carry several extra magnets in my pack just in case.
Note: The Rise rear triangle brake caliper post mount is setup for 180mm rotors. if you increase your rotor size to SRAM 200mm rotor or Shimano 203mm rotor, you must use the correct spacer adapter. As an example, to use a SRAM 200mm rotor you must use a 180MM to 200mm adapter and a 180mm to 203mm adapter for Shimano. Why the two companies didn't agree upon one size I don't know. If you're finding this all fascinating lets talk about Fox fork caliper adapters. The FOX 34mm Performance fork on my Rise was setup for 160mm post mount. If you want to go with a SRAM 200mm rotor, then you must use a 160mm to 200mm adapter and 160mm to 203mm adapter for Shimano rotors. The Fox 36mm fork, like my 2019 Fox Factory 36mm, is setup for 180mm post mount. You can use the same adapter as on the rear, i.e. 180mm to 200mm and 180mm to 203mm for Shimano.
Brake Lines: SRAM uses brake fluid and Shimano uses mineral oil. The two systems are not compatible, this includes brake lines. Orbea uses Shimano components, this means if you want to go with SRAM Code or Guide brakes, you'll have to swap out the brake lines. I've heard of people using Shimano for SRAM and vice versa, but I say why? With my luck, the line would blow about halfway down a rock face and I'd break my other ankle.
To change out the brake lines, shift housing, or dropper housing on an Orbea Rise isn't easy. There's a battery in the downtube and a motor where the bottom bracket would normally be. There isn't much room to make the sharp bend from downtube, across and over the top of the motor and out the top of the bottom bracket housing or up the seat tube. Orbea didn't add an inspection hole to help feed housing through. Furthermore, Orbea does not use a built in frame tube to run shift cable housing or brake cable through the downtube. Do not pull the old housing out.
Park Tool and several other companies sell tools which allow you to attach a new housing to the old housing. You them pull the old housing out which feeds the new housing into the frame and into position. I tried this and my old housing and new housing separated. I made the Scooby Doo sound.
For me personally, I found it much much easier just to remove and drop the motor several inches. This allowed my to reach into the frame and guide the housing. To drop the motor, I placed a padded stand several inches underneath the motor. I loosened the six motor mount bolts and gently lowered the motor. I made sure no electrical wires were stretched.
Note: The drive side chain ring spider will bock access to several of the motor mount bolts on the frame. You will need to remove the crank arm and then the chain ring spider to access the bolts. The chain ring spider is held on with a castellated type of nut. A special tool is required to remove the nut. I purchased a Park Tool "LRT-2" socket on Amazon. It worked perfectly. The castellated nut is reverse thread. To loosen the nut, leave you bike chain on the chain ring. Remove the crank arm. Have a partner squeeze the rear brake lever tight. Put the socket on the nut and unscrew the nut in a clockwise direction. Remove the spider and then access the motor mount bolts.
As a side note, I love Shimano stuff, but for me, I like SRAM better. Neither is bad. If you remember the days of keeping your fingers cross nobody would break down on a ride, you know we've come a long way with our bikes. They are so good, both Shimano and SRAM. I'm sure somebody on this forum will have a better suggestion or a comment on why didn't I do this or that. That's because I'm me and this is my bike. If you'd been in the garage with me, then I'm sure we would have had a laugh and a beer trying to figure it all out. My hand is cramping, I'm going on a ride.
If you have any questions or would like help with your Rise, send me a message.
Be safe
Rod
In October 2019, I had a bad crash and literally destroyed my right ankle.
The doctors initially wanted to amputate my foot. I couldn't walk for 19 months. In October of 2020, doctors did some Six Million Dollar Man stuff and 3D computer printed a new ankle. The 3D printing was used to make a titanium ankle which they installed in November of 2020. In January of this year, I started walking again. In April, I began riding my mountain bike, a Yeti SB130. I put about 500 miles on the bike, but it's been a rough go. My ankle will never be 100% and my cardio suffered from 19 months of not walking. I finally threw in the towel and purchased the Rise M20. I tell people it's like waking up one morning and you realize you can fly. I can ride with my buddies again.
At the time of my crash, my Yeti was only ten months old. The parts from my Yeti are a direct swap cross over to the Rise, this includes the cut steerer tube length on my Yeti's front fork.
All Rise models have the same carbon frame, motor and battery. The only difference between models is the component level. Unfortunately, Orbea does not sell a bare Rise frame. I decided upon the cheapest Rise model, the Rise M20 to swap my Yeti's parts onto.
Here are the specifications on my now custom Rise:
Weight 41 pounds
1. Handlebar: OneUp Carbon, 35mm x 800mm
2. Stem: OneUp 50mm
3. Headset: Chris King
4. Grips: Ergon GA2 grips
5. Brakes: (Front & Rear): SRAM G2
6. Rotors: (Front & Rear): SRAM Centerline, Centerlock, 200mm
7. Fork: Fox Factory FIT4 36mm, 150mm, 44mm offset, with Wolf Tooth straight axle
8. Wheelset: Ibis 935 Carbon, Sapim CX-Ray Spokes, brass nipples, Industry Nine Torch Hubs, SRAM XD driver
9. Front Tire: Maxxis 2.4, Minion DHF, Maxterra, EXO casing
10. Rear Tire: Maxxis 2.4, Dissector, Maxterra, EXO casing
11. Dropper: Orbea 150mm dropper post
12. Wolf Tooth Dropper Lever
13. Saddle: Fizik Taiga S-Alloy
14. Rear Shock: 2022 Fox Float X 210mm x 55mm
15. Shifter & Rear Derailleur: SRAM GX AXS
16. Cassette: SRAM XO1 10-52 cassette
17. Chain: SRAM XO1 Eagle
Mint Green Fox Heritage stickers match perfectly
Gear choice explanation and technical details:
Front Fork:
I'd initially considered swapping out my FIT4 dampener for a GRIP2. I decided against this as it would add more weight to the bike. If I were Richie Rude, I'd get the GRIP2. I'm not Richie Rude.
Rear Shock:
One of the issues I had when I got back on my bike was my weight gain. At the time of my accident, I was 6'1" and weighed 172 pounds. When I got back on my bike 19 months later, I weighed 215 pounds. In order to get the correct sag at 215 pounds, plus my pack, I had to pump up the air pressure and mess with volume spacers. This made my bike ride harsh. I don't think the Fox DPX2 rear shock is ideally suited for heavy riders. It's a good shock, just not for heavy people.
Fox recently released the 2022, Fox Float X. The new Float X has a larger air volume can and larger piston. The Float X fits perfectly on the Rise. To get the correct sag, much less air is needed with the Float X due to the larger air can and piston. The Float X is much more supple and the shock lockout/firm mode is firmer than the DPX2. Big people rejoice. I could have gone with another shock, air springs, etc. They all would have worked nicely, however my goal was to keep the bike's weight down as much as possible. If I need to push the Rise up a technical section, I need the bike to be light due to my ankle.
Brake Rotors:
The Rise M20 comes with Deore two piston brake calipers and 180mm brake rotors. On a black diamond technical downhill section, them puppies turn blue. Not wanting to "break" my other ankle, see what I did there? I decided to upgrade to 200mm rotors and use my fairly new SRAM G2 calipers. My wheelset is setup for centerlock brake rotors. Refer to the picture above with green arrow.
The United States sets the maximum speed in which an eBike can provide power at 20 MPH. To accomplish this, Orbea installed a Shimano speed sensor pickup on the inside of the swingarm and a Shimano brake rotor with magnet built into the rotor arm. As the rotor spins, the magnet crosses the speed sensor pickup on the swingarm. The faster the speed, the faster the magnet will cycle over the speed sensor pickup. The sensor will trigger the motor to stop producing power at 20 mph. There's math somewhere in the calculation, my head hurts...
Not knowing jack about eBikes, I initially purchased SRAM 200mm centerlock rotors and the correct 180mm to 200mm brake caliper adapters. I turned my Rise on and it immediately red lighted and wouldn't work. It was then that I discovered the world of speed sensor pickups.
SRAM does not make a rotor with magnet. I looked for centerlock rotor magnet adapters that would allow me to convert my SRAM rotors to magnet. While there are six bolt rotor magnet adapters, there isn't much out there for centerlock rotors. Specialized does make a centerlock locking ring with built in magnet. I bought one, tried it, it didn't work. The thing to note here is that the magnet must pass across the center of the speed sensor pickup. Not to one side or the other, but the center. Magnet location on the rotor is critical.
I gave up and purchased a Shimano 203mm ice tech rotor for the rear with built in magnet. The Shimano rotor did work with my SRAM G2 calipers, however the holes in Shimano rotors are much bigger than SRAM centerline rotor holes. I found that after three rides, my new rear brake pads were almost down to the metal. I think this is because the large holes in the Shimano rotor tended to shave off the SRAM pad material.
So now I'm back to using my SRAM rotors. I came across a thread in which people discussed placing a small Neodymium rare earth magnet on their brake rotor. I purchased a 3mm thick x 8mm round neodymium magnet set on Amazon. These are very powerful magnets. I placed the neodymium magnet on the SRAM rotor in the same spot where the Shimano magnet was located. As an added precaution, I added 3M superglue around the magnet to insure it didn't fly off. It works like a charm. I have about ten rides on the rotor, much of it on black diamond trails. I do carry several extra magnets in my pack just in case.
Note: The Rise rear triangle brake caliper post mount is setup for 180mm rotors. if you increase your rotor size to SRAM 200mm rotor or Shimano 203mm rotor, you must use the correct spacer adapter. As an example, to use a SRAM 200mm rotor you must use a 180MM to 200mm adapter and a 180mm to 203mm adapter for Shimano. Why the two companies didn't agree upon one size I don't know. If you're finding this all fascinating lets talk about Fox fork caliper adapters. The FOX 34mm Performance fork on my Rise was setup for 160mm post mount. If you want to go with a SRAM 200mm rotor, then you must use a 160mm to 200mm adapter and 160mm to 203mm adapter for Shimano rotors. The Fox 36mm fork, like my 2019 Fox Factory 36mm, is setup for 180mm post mount. You can use the same adapter as on the rear, i.e. 180mm to 200mm and 180mm to 203mm for Shimano.
Brake Lines: SRAM uses brake fluid and Shimano uses mineral oil. The two systems are not compatible, this includes brake lines. Orbea uses Shimano components, this means if you want to go with SRAM Code or Guide brakes, you'll have to swap out the brake lines. I've heard of people using Shimano for SRAM and vice versa, but I say why? With my luck, the line would blow about halfway down a rock face and I'd break my other ankle.
To change out the brake lines, shift housing, or dropper housing on an Orbea Rise isn't easy. There's a battery in the downtube and a motor where the bottom bracket would normally be. There isn't much room to make the sharp bend from downtube, across and over the top of the motor and out the top of the bottom bracket housing or up the seat tube. Orbea didn't add an inspection hole to help feed housing through. Furthermore, Orbea does not use a built in frame tube to run shift cable housing or brake cable through the downtube. Do not pull the old housing out.
Park Tool and several other companies sell tools which allow you to attach a new housing to the old housing. You them pull the old housing out which feeds the new housing into the frame and into position. I tried this and my old housing and new housing separated. I made the Scooby Doo sound.
For me personally, I found it much much easier just to remove and drop the motor several inches. This allowed my to reach into the frame and guide the housing. To drop the motor, I placed a padded stand several inches underneath the motor. I loosened the six motor mount bolts and gently lowered the motor. I made sure no electrical wires were stretched.
Note: The drive side chain ring spider will bock access to several of the motor mount bolts on the frame. You will need to remove the crank arm and then the chain ring spider to access the bolts. The chain ring spider is held on with a castellated type of nut. A special tool is required to remove the nut. I purchased a Park Tool "LRT-2" socket on Amazon. It worked perfectly. The castellated nut is reverse thread. To loosen the nut, leave you bike chain on the chain ring. Remove the crank arm. Have a partner squeeze the rear brake lever tight. Put the socket on the nut and unscrew the nut in a clockwise direction. Remove the spider and then access the motor mount bolts.
As a side note, I love Shimano stuff, but for me, I like SRAM better. Neither is bad. If you remember the days of keeping your fingers cross nobody would break down on a ride, you know we've come a long way with our bikes. They are so good, both Shimano and SRAM. I'm sure somebody on this forum will have a better suggestion or a comment on why didn't I do this or that. That's because I'm me and this is my bike. If you'd been in the garage with me, then I'm sure we would have had a laugh and a beer trying to figure it all out. My hand is cramping, I'm going on a ride.
If you have any questions or would like help with your Rise, send me a message.
Be safe
Rod
Last edited by a moderator:
siciliano
New Member
I almost barfed at that picture, it’s a lil much lol
Rod B.
Well-known member
You should have seen my face when I looked down. Wahoo!
enewb
Member
Let’s try this again!
I thought she’d be a little lighter than the first rise with a zeb. But it’s practically the same weight.
I might switch up the tires and still waiting for a range extender but for the most part, it’s done. See you on the trails!
Medium frame, pike ultimate 140mm, revel30/hydra, xtr cass/chain, sram axs, code rsc, why ti bar, dhf/dhr… 41lb
I thought she’d be a little lighter than the first rise with a zeb. But it’s practically the same weight.
I might switch up the tires and still waiting for a range extender but for the most part, it’s done. See you on the trails!
Medium frame, pike ultimate 140mm, revel30/hydra, xtr cass/chain, sram axs, code rsc, why ti bar, dhf/dhr… 41lb
soundwave
Active member
Horrible injury. I was left wondering what kind of crash can cause that bad a damage? Of course you don’t have to reply… 
Norcalsl
Active member
Waaaay too graphic. And now I can't unsee it.
jbrown15
Well-known member
I would take a Deore cassette over a XTR, as much as people want to save weight you have to give your head a shake. It's still an ebike, I'd rather buy three Deore cassette's for the price of one XTR and have them last twice as long.
jbrown15
Well-known member
Jesus Dude, i think we could have done without that picture of your ankle. Maybe just some after photos of how it healed would have given us idea of the extent of the injury. That seriously ruined my day!....lol
Please edit your post and remove that....lol
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I don't disagree - just commenting on the incorrect weights.
jbrown15
Well-known member
Oh I realize that, just thought I'd point it out to give people something to think about.
Rod B.
Well-known member
I'm sorry I offended you and ruined your day. The intent was not to do that. I posted the picture to show that no matter how bad it gets, how shitty your day has been, you can always get on your bike and ride. If you could please explain how to edit the post, I would be very happy to remove the photograph.
I'll download it first then down the pub it's "my ankle" and I had to hop 12 miles out of the wilderness ;-)
Tubby G
❤️🔥 Hot Stuff ❤️🔥
Leave the photo up, the comment was only meant lightheartedly. The acronym ‘lol’ means ‘laugh out loud’, same as a ? emoji
After 150 miles and trying the Shimano drivetrain I finally threw on the X01 AXS that I had sitting on the shelf paired with the GX controller, X01 cassette. I ‘m super happy with the Bike Yoke L match maker that puts the controller in the perfect position.
I also switched from the RS Tool box to Esteps and stoked that I can still see Battery, Mode and cadence on the same screen as all other data On the Garmin.
I also switched from the RS Tool box to Esteps and stoked that I can still see Battery, Mode and cadence on the same screen as all other data On the Garmin.
Bike Yoke I-Spec-EV adapter Left. I have long fingers, so the Left works for me. Go right if you want it closer to your grip end as seen in the pics.
Bike Yoke I-Spec EV Adapter for Triggy, Left
Who doesn't love a nicely cleaned up cockpit? This neatly CNC-machined piece of black anodized and laser engraved 6061-T6 Aluminum attaches your Triggy directly to a Shimano I-Spec EV Brake and saves an extra clamp on the handlebars. You can also use it to mate SRAM triggers or other remotes...
takeahikeshop.com
Coil fitted, spoke to couple suspension companies not many coils will be warrantied if snap on the Rise frame due to linkage design!
Have 2 &1/2 sets wheels summer & winter 29er wheels & 27.5 wheel lol ? rebuilt the Arc30 with decent hubs I had as winter wheels 1kg+ heavier than summer carbon wheels with lighter tyres
Have 2 &1/2 sets wheels summer & winter 29er wheels & 27.5 wheel lol ? rebuilt the Arc30 with decent hubs I had as winter wheels 1kg+ heavier than summer carbon wheels with lighter tyres
Just make sure that you replace it with something that is capable of running metal pads
I did the same on my M20, I got a
Shimano SLX SM-RT64 M665 Centre-Lock Disc Rotor which seemed to match what came with the bike.
Don't forget you'll need a caliper adapter too.
Rod B.
Well-known member
GMLS,
I have a M20 and have gone through the process of upgrading my bike. My M20 came with Deore levers, Deore two piston calipers and 180mm rotors. The brake pads are retained using a cotter pin. On the trail, the Deore offered good braking power and modulation, however the cotter key retained brake pads are noisy as hell. Every time I hit the brakes, the pads would shift on the cotter key and make a rattling noise.
If you do upgrade the rotor size, keep in mind the M20 comes with a 34mm Fox fork that is set up for 160 post mount. You will need to buy a caliper spacer/adapter that will convert your front fork post mount from 160mm to 203mm. The rear of the Rise has a 180mm post mount. If you plan to go with a 203mm rotor on the rear, you will need to use a spacer/adapter that will convert the rear post mount from 180mm to 203mm.
I bought new Shimano Ice Tech centerlock rotors (203mm front and 180mm rear) for my M20 and briefly used them with my SRAM calipers. They worked, but the larger holes on the Shimano rotors seemed to eat up my SRAM brake pads. If you are interested, I can sell you the Ice Tech rotors I bought. I'm not using them, they have about 30 miles on them. Let's say $25 for each, plus $8.00 shipping. If you're interested, let me know.
I have a M20 and have gone through the process of upgrading my bike. My M20 came with Deore levers, Deore two piston calipers and 180mm rotors. The brake pads are retained using a cotter pin. On the trail, the Deore offered good braking power and modulation, however the cotter key retained brake pads are noisy as hell. Every time I hit the brakes, the pads would shift on the cotter key and make a rattling noise.
If you do upgrade the rotor size, keep in mind the M20 comes with a 34mm Fox fork that is set up for 160 post mount. You will need to buy a caliper spacer/adapter that will convert your front fork post mount from 160mm to 203mm. The rear of the Rise has a 180mm post mount. If you plan to go with a 203mm rotor on the rear, you will need to use a spacer/adapter that will convert the rear post mount from 180mm to 203mm.
I bought new Shimano Ice Tech centerlock rotors (203mm front and 180mm rear) for my M20 and briefly used them with my SRAM calipers. They worked, but the larger holes on the Shimano rotors seemed to eat up my SRAM brake pads. If you are interested, I can sell you the Ice Tech rotors I bought. I'm not using them, they have about 30 miles on them. Let's say $25 for each, plus $8.00 shipping. If you're interested, let me know.
enewb
Member
Nice upgrades everyone! I actually have been riding my regular bike more lately and haven’t ridden the new white Rise yet. But I have been collecting some parts
My Rise got an oem Fox 36, and will get shimano 160mm cranks, Fox transfer, fender, kabolt and factory tune Float X. I’ve spoken to Fox and their factory tune works well with the Rise kinematics if you are planning to upgrade.
AAANDD… built my wife a small Rise! Most of the parts were from her Scott Ransom. As pictured is 40.5lb. Can’t wait to take these two bikes out!
My Rise got an oem Fox 36, and will get shimano 160mm cranks, Fox transfer, fender, kabolt and factory tune Float X. I’ve spoken to Fox and their factory tune works well with the Rise kinematics if you are planning to upgrade.
AAANDD… built my wife a small Rise! Most of the parts were from her Scott Ransom. As pictured is 40.5lb. Can’t wait to take these two bikes out!
Last edited:
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