Reign E+ 2022

Anyone swapped their bars for some with more rise? I’m suffering a bit with hand numbness on the flat that disappears if I drop the saddle about 30mm. Fine on uphills and downhills (saddle lowered usually). Not sure if they would upset the handling? Reign E+ 1 XL - 198cm, long legs.
Had the same issue. Went for 35mm rise in the new nukeproof V2 alloy bars. Best bars for those and sweep I have ever found. Use them on all my bikes..put more expensive bars to shame
 
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Any suggestions on a good quality rear wheel with an XD hub? Looking to upgrade to a X01 cassette and at a quick glance LBS offered only Raceface and read that those might have some issues with axles.
Price point around 500€. DT Swiss wheels sound like a no-brainer, any experiences with Reign E+?
 
Any suggestions on a good quality rear wheel with an XD hub? Looking to upgrade to a X01 cassette and at a quick glance LBS offered only Raceface and read that those might have some issues with axles.
Price point around 500€. DT Swiss wheels sound like a no-brainer, any experiences with Reign E+?

DT Swiss EX511's is the only way to go.
 
Anyone swapped their bars for some with more rise? I’m suffering a bit with hand numbness on the flat that disappears if I drop the saddle about 30mm. Fine on uphills and downhills (saddle lowered usually). Not sure if they would upset the handling? Reign E+ 1 XL - 198cm, long legs.
Yes I swapped the stock bars out for 40mm rise (use carbon) if I didn't have them already I'd of bought renthal fat bar in alloy, had the before and they're super comfy
 
I went DT Swiss fr560 rims. Even stronger
The stock ally rims are soft. I'm running higher pressures now. Wheel is still perfectly true.

IMG20220415124124.jpg
 
Yeah, I want to run the pressures I like without the rim falling apart. Fr560 is Dt Swiss strongest rim. I do a lot of bike parks and rocky trail riding so wanted something reliable
 
Anyone swapped their bars for some with more rise? I’m suffering a bit with hand numbness on the flat that disappears if I drop the saddle about 30mm. Fine on uphills and downhills (saddle lowered usually). Not sure if they would upset the handling? Reign E+ 1 XL - 198cm, long legs.
Me 2. Change to Spank vibrocore bars with 50mm Rise.

04FFD7F2-0D2C-4DD3-9823-ED12338B5AE6.jpeg
 
Does anyone know the leverage ratio of this 2022 model or do you have the graph? I've searched the internet and haven't found anything. someone who has put a spring and weighs 90kg? 550lbs?
 
In my experience any wtb rim is not great. I have destroyed a few. Not that exact model but been through enough to not touch them again.
 
In my experience any wtb rim is not great. I have destroyed a few. Not that exact model but been through enough to not touch them again.
Hmmm someone always seems to issues with products no matter what… if you look at the cross section of the HTZ including 32 offset spokes I would be amazed if you destroyed it as well. Ruining a wheel doesn’t mean that much no matter what brand , there is many variables that come into play. So unless there’s A lot of complaints about a certain wheel and you start off with a good strong set your good to go 👍😎

“The thickest rim walls we offer, a proven I-Beam center support, asymmetrical spoke hole drilling and dependable 6069 aluminum alloy deliver a bombproof rim that doesn't break the bank. HTZ i35 and i40 rims are optimized for your e-assist trail bike running 2.6-3.0" tires.”

E2161404-B48D-4DC5-AE12-1B10DAFC39A7.jpeg
 
In my experience any wtb rim is not great. I have destroyed a few. Not that exact model but been through enough to not touch them again.
I had WTB rims on my 2006 Santa Cruz Blur LT - were still good as new (kind of) when I sold the bike last year after several thousand miles of not very gentle use. They were built up using Hope hubs and DT spokes by someone who knew what they were doing though.

So often component failures on MTBs are more down to quality of assembly than the parts themselves as proven by my battery falling out on the first ride - nothing to do with the parts - they just weren’t assembled properly.
 
So often component failures on MTBs are more down to quality of assembly
Definitely true with wheels; probably more so than most other components. I get the average spoke tension from each side of a new wheel, then set about getting all the spokes each side close to the same tension. A bit of fine tuning on centering the wheel (if needed) and truing. When I've finished I have so much more confidence in those wheels - they're as strong as they can be with those components. There are always some spokes that are a fair bit over and under tension prior to this. It's time consuming but the wheels generally stay true after that - I'm still learning jumps, which means I often land pretty hard.
 
I had WTB rims on my 2006 Santa Cruz Blur LT - were still good as new (kind of) when I sold the bike last year after several thousand miles of not very gentle use. They were built up using Hope hubs and DT spokes by someone who knew what they were doing though.

So often component failures on MTBs are more down to quality of assembly than the parts themselves as proven by my battery falling out on the first ride - nothing to do with the parts - they just weren’t assembled properly.
Agreed. But it's not just me. Modern wtb rims have a reputation of being cheese. They come as standard on Santa cruzs and are really poor quality. Never had an issue with DT Swiss. Just my experience over time.
 
Agreed. But it's not just me. Modern wtb rims have a reputation of being cheese. They come as standard on Santa cruzs and are really poor quality. Never had an issue with DT Swiss. Just my experience over time.

Except that you don't have ANY experience with the HTZ. Nor have you stated what WTB rims you've broken previously so any sort of meaningful comparison can be made.

HTZ i30 is most likely stronger than the FR650.
 
Today I had the first problems with the motor. After about 20km the motor suddenly stopped, switched on again, after 10 meters it stopped again. Battery out, waited a bit, back in. After a km again the same. I then made my way home, but on the last 5km the motor wouldn't turn on at all. At home I was able to switch it on again, made a diagnosis with the app, everything is green, the battery has a 40% charge.

Has anyone had such a problem?
 
Except that you don't have ANY experience with the HTZ. Nor have you stated what WTB rims you've broken previously so any sort of meaningful comparison can be made.

HTZ i30 is most likely stronger than the FR650.
Just have little faith in wtb as a company. DT Swiss on the other hand, all the rims they make are fantastic. You can find plenty of users and reviews on them. Fr560 used by plenty of world cup riders and enduro racers due to them being bulletproof. Loads of reviews on them by users as well. Widely accepted as the best/strongest rim you can get, hence going with it. Can hardly find any reviews on the wtb and even less by people that actually use them.
 
Today I had the first problems with the motor. After about 20km the motor suddenly stopped, switched on again, after 10 meters it stopped again. Battery out, waited a bit, back in. After a km again the same. I then made my way home, but on the last 5km the motor wouldn't turn on at all. At home I was able to switch it on again, made a diagnosis with the app, everything is green, the battery has a 40% charge.

Has anyone had such a problem?
I know someone that has had this. Ended up being a loose connection. Check all the wires to the motor are fully plugged in.
 
I know someone that has had this. Ended up being a loose connection. Check all the wires to the motor are fully plugged in.
I checked it, all wires are fully plugged in. The second from the left is a dummy plug?
motor.jpg

I had the battery out for the night, will check this afternoon to see if the problem is still there.
 
Today I had the first problems with the motor. After about 20km the motor suddenly stopped, switched on again, after 10 meters it stopped again. Battery out, waited a bit, back in. After a km again the same. I then made my way home, but on the last 5km the motor wouldn't turn on at all. At home I was able to switch it on again, made a diagnosis with the app, everything is green, the battery has a 40% charge.

Has anyone had such a problem?

Unfortunately I know of two friends who have been plagued with similar problems. One of them they are still trying to get to the bottom of it, the other they have replaced wiring, the motor, and it looks like the battery may have been causing the problem all along.
 
Unfortunately I know of two friends who have been plagued with similar problems. One of them they are still trying to get to the bottom of it, the other they have replaced wiring, the motor, and it looks like the battery may have been causing the problem all along.
thanks for the information. if the problem persists i will go to my LBS
 
Unfortunately I know of two friends who have been plagued with similar problems. One of them they are still trying to get to the bottom of it, the other they have replaced wiring, the motor, and it looks like the battery may have been causing the problem all along.
That's not great 🙁 would never guess the battery. Will let my mate know. Thanks 🙂
 
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