Is it difficult or just bolts open? Never done that.I would drop the motor just to make sure its all routed tidy![]()
If you decide to drop the motor yourself I would suggest turning the bike upside down. (At least for the first time). Follow any procedures and torque specifications recommended. Identify any cables or wiring in the motor area.Is it difficult or just bolts open? Never done that.
No as others have said it's easyIs it difficult or just bolts open? Never done that.
Thank you for an amazing recommendations! Really appreciate it!Good move switching to XT brakes. Go to 170mm travel on fork upgrade. I use Kovee Pro 30s as my race wheelset and they are amazing, especially in tight woods. I plan on getting some Line Pro 30 for everyday use.
I did a frame swap on a Gen2 Rail 7 a couple years ago (cables route on the bottom of the downtube) so it was easy to install the brake line with everything removed. You can remove the entire RIB system from the bottom as one piece if you have to (I don't think you will).
Since you need to pull the motor my recommendations for this project include:
-Take pictures of both sides of the motor for reference
-Remove the battery
-Pull the cranks
-Remove chainring and guide, mainly so you can apply threadlocker to the left-hand lockring and re-torque (face-shaking tight) after reinstalling the motor
-Remove rear wheel
-Remove bash guard
-Buy some torx plus bits and pull the motor
-Check torque on mounting plate bolts. These should be torx plus on the bosch smart motors and not the security penta-lobe bolts that secure the case halves. On the older motors they were all penta-lobe. I had to buy penta-lobe bits
-Remove the main pivot bolt and apply grease and threadlocker unless the shop did during assembly
-Install brake line from back to front (have to with banjo line), keep plug on open end of line while routing to keep dirt out
-Bleed brakes with bleed block
-Install motor, lightly grease contact points, apply threadlocker on frame mounting bolts
-Very lightly grease motor cable plug seals with dielectric grease for water-proofing
-Install rear wheel, then chainguide, chainring, lockring, chain, adjust chainguide, then tighten lockring
-Install cranks and battery
-Check shifting
-Align calipers
-Break-in procedure for brake pads and rotor
-Throw sram brakes in the garbage
-Go ride
Those are nice suspension upgrades. I installed a fox 38 factory 170mm and DHX2 with 62.5mm stroke paired with 155mm helix cranks. Like you said, it feels amazing.Thank you for an amazing recommendations! Really appreciate it!
I am still waiting for my XTs but now I have a full coil Rail, 150mm E-Storia shock and 170mm Smashpot coil fork. Not too many rides yet but feels amazingly good!
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