Orbea Rise Issue

[jim0905]

Early bath for me today.

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This still isn't sorted after nearly 10 weeks. Getting super pissed off now with Tredz and Moore Large the distributor

 

[volts]

This still isn't sorted after nearly 10 weeks. Getting super pissed off now with Tredz and Moore Large the distributor

It shouldn't take that long man, that sucks
Seems really fucked. Being without a bike for so long is rough. It would be faster if they gave you the money back and you bought a new bike.

 

[Chicane]

This still isn't sorted after nearly 10 weeks. Getting super pissed off now with Tredz and Moore Large the distributor

One would think that someone could step on the non drive side pedal at 3 or 9 o'clock and another person could break the nut lose using a breaker bar/ cheater bar if needed. I've had many things at work that wouldn't budge, but a cheater bar has always come to the rescue. A little amount of heat will also help, since you don't want to melt anything. Are they aware about the nut being reverse threads?

 

[Funks]

One would think that someone could step on the non drive side pedal at 3 or 9 o'clock and another person could break the nut lose using a breaker bar/ cheater bar if needed. I've had many things at work that wouldn't budge, but a cheater bar has always come to the rescue. A little amount of heat will also help, since you don't want to melt anything. Are they aware about the nut being reverse threads?

In order for one to unbolt the chainring, you gotta have the chain on, and preferably - the back wheel to the ground. Like you stated, in order to loosen up the chainring, gotta go clock wise.

The spindle is effectively disconnected (freewheeling) from the chainring when the chainring rotates clockwise when the clutch is disengaged.
Too bad there's no feature to engage the clutch explicitly with the app for service which may help in this situation.

Only thing I can think off is to create a notch on the old chainring material still stuck on the motor with a Dremel. Use a screw driver or something on the notch to prevent it from rotating, then try to remove the locking (making sure one is trying to remove the lock clockwise) using an impact wrench. Locking is only supposed to be tightened to 35 to 45 nm. If somebody tried to remove lock ring counter clock wise, probably over tightened it.

With this piece breaking, probably a be a good idea to proactively replace it with the Shimano Spider and Chainring (34T) compatible with the 12 speed Shimano chains - SM-CRE80-12-B as it would be quite an ordeal to remove that lock ring without being able to lock the chainring in place during removal (with the chain, or a chain whip tool).

 

[luna87824]

How did you get the lock ring undone without any chainring left?

 

[jim0905]

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Didn't budge I've had to have a new motor and chainring fitted

 

[jim0905]

In order for one to unbolt the chainring, you gotta have the chain on, and preferably - the back wheel to the ground. Like you stated, in order to loosen up the chainring, gotta go clock wise.

The spindle is effectively disconnected (freewheeling) from the chainring when the chainring rotates clockwise when the clutch is disengaged.
Too bad there's no feature to engage the clutch explicitly with the app for service which may help in this situation.

Only thing I can think off is to create a notch on the old chainring material still stuck on the motor with a Dremel. Use a screw driver or something on the notch to prevent it from rotating, then try to remove the locking (making sure one is trying to remove the lock clockwise) using an impact wrench. Locking is only supposed to be tightened to 35 to 45 nm. If somebody tried to remove lock ring counter clock wise, probably over tightened it.

With this piece breaking, probably a be a good idea to proactively replace it with the Shimano Spider and Chainring (34T) compatible with the 12 speed Shimano chains - SM-CRE80-12-B as it would be quite an ordeal to remove that lock ring without being able to lock the chainring in place during removal (with the chain, or a chain whip tool).

I've had to have a new motor and chainring fitted

 

[Funks]

I've had to have a new motor and chainring fitted

That sucks, anyways - probably be a good idea to replace the e-Thirteen Chainring with the SM-CRE80-12-B, you basically went through an ordeal.

Or for people wanting to buy non Shimano chainrings, the spider part number is

Shimano Spider for 53mm chainline: Y1VY00020
FSA Spider for 53mm chainline: CR1770 (Manufacturer Part # 380-0455000050)

as for chainrings

Wolftooth sells 104BCD , 32 T, Drop-Stop ST (forShimano12 speed)
RaceFace sells 104BCD, 32T for Shimano 12 speed

Gotta replace the stock chain guide for sure as it won't work with the spiders above.

Funn Zippa Lite ES Chain Guide
One-UP E-Bike STEPS/EP8 Chain Guide

 

[luna87824]

Didn't budge I've had to have a new motor and chainring fitted

Can I have your motor?

 

[jim0905]

Can I have your motor?

Yeah mate pop down to Tredz and get it out of the bin

 

[Shjay]

They will have probably sent the motor back to Madison U.K.

 

[Kevlasultanpus]

Hi all,

Ive had a Rise for less than a week, amazing bikes, lots of fun.
Issue is, the chain ring has snapped, so the fun has stopped.
its completley come off the crank, the inner part is still there, mounted to the crank and is still attached, and the whole outta peice has come off.

anyone else had this issue?

i wasnt pedalling particularly the mud, flat ground, and POP, the things just snaps striaght off.

im worried that as this is a new bike, and the chainring (from what i read) was especailly made for the bike, its might be a design fault, or if its just a manufactoring fault, its may take some time to get a replacement.

Contemplating taking the bike back.
Dont spend near enough 7k on a bike to have issue like this. Fully unridebale and not an easily accessible part. So far bike shop said they would get back to me today, and now they are saying they will get back to me tomorrow.
Fingers crossed they can get a replacement soon. Very frustating as its costs a small fortune, plus its was a 4hr walk home. Could have been a whole lot worse.
Ive asked for two more so i can have a backup if it happens again, and if it does, i can replace it on the trial then replace the bike when im home.

if anyone has any ideas, of has had this issue, please get in touch.

Thanks all!

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Wow.... just bought the h30 and only 2 rides in.... that would totally ruin your day / week / month of planned riding. Sure its a bike specific part ???? Would like to know more... could be worth buying a spare just in case

 

[Funks]

Either these two work.

My H39 came with the full power firmware, first thing I did when I got the bike was replace the chainring with the FSA spider and the 32T RaceFace Shimano 12s chainring

FSA spider with RF 32T installed on my bike

Below is the Shimano 34T for Shimano 12s with Shimano Spider (53mm CL)

Here’s the FSA Spider ( 53mm CL ) with the RF 32T Shimano 12s chainring