Kenevo Gen1 Official 2018/2019 Kenevo thread

allank said:
Creaking noise solved/found !
I have had this annoying creaking noise from what I thought was the crank. It has been frustrating the last 1-2 weeks, and after several tightening etc I today unmounted first the dropper-post completely - no change, then losened retightened everything, had wheels off ,thougt it came from rear swinger or shock. finally I took of the battery and took it for a ride-
VOILA !!! It simply was the battery making the creaking noise every time i moved/used the pedals. I have been riding dry dusty conditions the last 3-4 weeks, and dust/sand must have build up or something ? I cleaned it completely - also frame and every connectionpoints, and gave battery a silicone-cloth all over. its a new bike again !
just wanted to let you guys know - as I thougth I had to pull the engine as described somewhere - but try battery first - it worked for me :)
Allan
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I had the same problem (I posted solution on thread about creaking noises). I thought that the creaking noise was coming from the bottom of the battery and so put a dab of silicone grease on the rubber locating thing on the battery. This cured the problem. I think the rubber dries out and pedalling creates a slight flex in the bottom bracket area and this creates the creak.
 
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brizi2003 said:
Hi Allan,
Welcome to the Kenevo club!

Can't help with the bearing chart. My Kenevo Comp has covered 850 miles and I have had a few similar problems.

I've also had a problem with chains but EMC have been very good by supplying new chains free of charge.1st stock chain measured >0.5% after 80 miles. 2nd chain measured > 0,5% after 80 miles too, 3rd chain measured > 0.75 after 400 miles, 4th chain was jumping on cassette when fitted so had to fit a new cassette at the same time. So far the 4th chain and new cassette have lasted 250 miles and chain has not yet reached the 0.5% limit - best so far. I fitted a Sunrace cassette as gear ratios are better and the Shimano cassette was worn very badly especially in lower gears (largest cogs). 4th chain is an EMC e11 EPT chain and seems to be lasting the best of all the chains. KMC maintenance guide offers some good advice see: MAINTENANCE
One of my rear wheel bearings is beginning to feel a little rough when rotated with my finger but I've also had to re-tighted the wheel axle lock nuts a few times as they've worked loose. Maybe this is your problem?

Latest problem I'm having is that the battery will not charge and charger LED illuminates Green indicating fully charged even though the battery is only at 5% according to Mission Control which also shows 100% healthy battery. Charger has already been replaced under warranty but this did not resolve the issue so I'm waiting to hear back from Specialized about next steps. Hopefully a new battery. Everything works fine apart from the battery charging. Has anyone else had this problem?

Other than those issues I'm really enjoying my Kenevo but wish it was as reliable as my son's Trek LT7 which had a chain replaced at 300 miles (>.75% wear) but no other problems and has now done 400 miles on similar routes as my Kenevo.

Cheers

Brian
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I have done 1000k on my Kenevo and have measured wear on original chain as 0.45% so no need to replace it yet. I am lucky to live in an area where I almost never ride in the wet and we have very little mud and so chains have always lasted well. However, I found the noise the chain makes when changing gear under any sort of load really grated against my mechanical sympathy. This was much worse than on my other Bosch powered ebike which automatically reduces power on gear changes. So, I have adapted my riding style on the Kenevo to both anticipate changing down (good MTV practice anyway) and to reduce pressure on the pedals when changing down. It also may help that I am quite light (65k). Ebikes are new to all of us and we probably under estimate how much more power is going through the chain on a steep uphill. Changing down a gear must put an enormous strain on the chain and I’m surprised they don’t break more often, considering how easy it was to break one on a normal bike by changing down under full human power!
 
Swissrider said:
I have done 1000k on my Kenevo and have measured wear on original chain as 0.45% so no need to replace it yet. I am lucky to live in an area where I almost never ride in the wet and we have very little mud and so chains have always lasted well. However, I found the noise the chain makes when changing gear under any sort of load really grated against my mechanical sympathy. This was much worse than on my other Bosch powered ebike which automatically reduces power on gear changes. So, I have adapted my riding style on the Kenevo to both anticipate changing down (good MTV practice anyway) and to reduce pressure on the pedals when changing down. It also may help that I am quite light (65k). Ebikes are new to all of us and we probably under estimate how much more power is going through the chain on a steep uphill. Changing down a gear must put an enormous strain on the chain and I’m surprised they don’t break more often, considering how easy it was to break one on a normal bike by changing down under full human power!
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Thanks for the reply Swissrider - I agree with you that there is heavy load on chain when changing. I have now lost 16 kg (from 105 to 89 kg now) and that has improved chainlife dramatically together with as light and easy changing as I am able to make. this has increased chainlife to about 600 km on a chain, and then it is between 0,5 but not 0,75 yet. So we just have to "handle with care" when changing gears, rgds. Allan
 
A general recommendation is to replace chain at or just before the 0.75% reading for 9 or 10 speed chain. For 11 and 12-speed chain, replace at or just before the 0.5% reading.

The extra torque transferred through chain on ebikes means new chain on a worn cassette is more likely to jump, necessitating the need to have to replace whole drive train. Therefore replace chain earlier than recommended. (y)
 
Silverfox101010 said:
Ok I have had a bad rubbing noise appear when doing big landings! I have been trying to source the noise and I have finally found it. And would like some input from others if they have had any noises from there ttx coil

Basically the spring is rubbing on the black shaft at full compression and is scuffing it up it has also worn the paint off of the spring! I have solved it with a bit of grease for now.
It seems to me like the springs inside diameter is not big enough.
I removed the shock spring and I found I had to screw the spring up until the rear end raised enough to set my sag at the correct amount, which is basically an inch down the shaft from where the collar locates on the spring? Way more than 2 turns preload recommended??bike is large and is correct weight spring??

Any ideas can someone see if there's is the same all I can think of is it's a stretched spring.
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This doesnt appear to have been answered and I would like to know if you have resolved it as for a 180mm travel its a very short shock/stroke. Also DH bikes have 250mm travel (unless its 1998 again in which case yes 180 is a DH bike).
 
DH bikes tend to have circa 200-210mm of travel
 
Indigo said:
A general recommendation is to replace chain at or just before the 0.75% reading for 9 or 10 speed chain. For 11 and 12-speed chain, replace at or just before the 0.5% reading.

The extra torque transferred through chain on ebikes means new chain on a worn cassette is more likely to jump, necessitating the need to have to replace whole drive train. Therefore replace chain earlier than recommended. (y)
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Agreed - I have 3 chains, I am on the 3. now, not seeing chain-jump yet - I wore them all to 0,5 - changed to new, and now I wear them to 0,75 each - then changing the whole enchilada when all 3 chains are gone. works for me i think
 
Hello all, I've just changed the chain on my Kenevo and seem to have a problem with the chain holding onto the chain ring as it leaves the ring to go back to the mech. It only happens under load and makes quite a loud scraping/stuttering noise which I thought at first was the motor. However, I suspect that the ring is worn so the new chain is only contacting the ring on the chain ring lower teeth when under load and this causes each link of the chain to stick/flick off the chain ring as it leaves the ring. Has anyone else experienced something similar? I've ordered a new ring in the meantime which will hopefully fix it.
 
My bike won't change modes and is stuck in Turbo; a quick call to Specialized points to a battery replacement; however in the meantime has anybody suffered a similar issue? It holds charge, gives assist etc. I was hoping there would be some sort of sequence of pushing buttons to reset the battery.
 
samyui said:
My bike won't change modes and is stuck in Turbo; a quick call to Specialized points to a battery replacement; however in the meantime has anybody suffered a similar issue? It holds charge, gives assist etc. I was hoping there would be some sort of sequence of pushing buttons to reset the battery.
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Every time this has happened to me its been because the battery is not connected properly. Simple suggestion...turn off, disconnect/reconnect battery (make sure contacts are clean), turn on. Try changing modes on the battery itself rather than the remote.
 
brizi2003 said:
Every time this has happened to me its been because the battery is not connected properly. Simple suggestion...turn off, disconnect/reconnect battery (make sure contacts are clean), turn on. Try changing modes on the battery itself rather than the remote.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, I did try taking the battery out and plugging it in again, admittedly the attachment didn’t seem to click into place incredibly reassuringly. I’ve only had the bike a few days though and didn’t want to force it.
 
Does anyone carry their Expert (i.e. with the bottle cage) on a Thule Proride Roofrack? When I picked the bike up the only way I could get it on was to take the bottle cage off. I'm wondering if removing the battery would work?
 
About 4 weeks ago the belt in the Brose motor on my 2018 Kenevo died (could hear teeth shredding inside the motor) so I got a new motor installed on warranty along with the latest firmware (as of end of May). Despite putting all my settings back to where I like to have them in the Specialized app, my motor power felt like it was maybe 60% of what it was before. So, I took it back to the shop and the technician took it for a ride and said that he felt the same lack of power. So, he dropped another new motor in it with the fresh firmware once again. I went back out on my normal trails and it still feels really sluggish. Eco mode at around 20-25% power and 100% peak feels useless, Trail mode which I like at 50-60% power and 100% peak felt pretty bad and Turbo is set at 100% power and 100% peak and it feels like 60% of what it normally is. Honestly, to have any decent level of assist I feel like I have to ride in Turbo all the time. Anyone having this same problem?...
 
ovenproofelk65 said:
About 4 weeks ago the belt in the Brose motor on my 2018 Kenevo died (could hear teeth shredding inside the motor) so I got a new motor installed on warranty along with the latest firmware (as of end of May). Despite putting all my settings back to where I like to have them in the Specialized app, my motor power felt like it was maybe 60% of what it was before. So, I took it back to the shop and the technician took it for a ride and said that he felt the same lack of power. So, he dropped another new motor in it with the fresh firmware once again. I went back out on my normal trails and it still feels really sluggish. Eco mode at around 20-25% power and 100% peak feels useless, Trail mode which I like at 50-60% power and 100% peak felt pretty bad and Turbo is set at 100% power and 100% peak and it feels like 60% of what it normally is. Honestly, to have any decent level of assist I feel like I have to ride in Turbo all the time. Anyone having this same problem?...
Click to expand...
No. I’m stuck in Turbo mode, can’t shift to the other modes and I’m constantly nearly going into trees
 
ovenproofelk65 said:
You can’t decently ride trails with a DH fork - especially tight switchbacks. The fork knocks the frame so you can’t turn the bars far enough for anything other than a DH track.
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I beg to differ. It might be "harder" but its really not impossible. We have tight rocky switchbacks on a couple of our black DH trails on the local bikepark. I do it just as easy on a DH bike as on an enduro bike.
Actually do it faster on the DH bike because it makes me take the fast line thro the switchbacks per automatic.
Go up high before the corner and cut it as much as possible.
 
Davajn said:
I beg to differ. It might be "harder" but its really not impossible. We have tight rocky switchbacks on a couple of our black DH trails on the local bikepark. I do it just as easy on a DH bike as on an enduro bike.
Actually do it faster on the DH bike because it makes me take the fast line thro the switchbacks per automatic.
Go up high before the corner and cut it as much as possible.
Click to expand...
What I meant was using it as a trail bike. Of course it will be fine descending. I was talking about climbing switchback trails with it. It’s probably doable but not ideal.
 
brizi2003 said:
Hello all, I've just changed the chain on my Kenevo and seem to have a problem with the chain holding onto the chain ring as it leaves the ring to go back to the mech. It only happens under load and makes quite a loud scraping/stuttering noise which I thought at first was the motor. However, I suspect that the ring is worn so the new chain is only contacting the ring on the chain ring lower teeth when under load and this causes each link of the chain to stick/flick off the chain ring as it leaves the ring. Has anyone else experienced something similar? I've ordered a new ring in the meantime which will hopefully fix it.
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I had a horrid scraping noise from the chain.. only to find out it was the chain guide! Scraping the chain - and resonating against the motor cover, like an amplifier! Sounded horrible!
Simple adjust to the chainguide fixed it..
Worth checking..
BTW - where did you order the chain? And chainring from?
Can't find 124 link chains online..
And my Specialized dealer wanted a fortune for them..?
Tim.
 
samyui said:
Does anyone carry their Expert (i.e. with the bottle cage) on a Thule Proride Roofrack? When I picked the bike up the only way I could get it on was to take the bottle cage off. I'm wondering if removing the battery would work?
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Im still in shock you can pick up a Kenevo! And hold it over your head to get it on a roof rack! ???
?????????????
Tim
 
Tim69 said:
Im still in shock you can pick up a Kenevo! And hold it over your head to get it on a roof rack! ???
?????????????
Tim
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Mine actually slipped out of the Thule Pro wossmame downtube clasp on the cycle carrier; luckily only making contact with the rear quarter light window and not smashing it. I now take the front wheel off and put the bike in the boot. The new Thule cycle racks look good though
 
New bike day ?. What a day I took my new kenevo expert out to the local trails which have a great variety of climbs, DH and plenty of trail in between. The kenevo blew me away, I racked up just over 100kms for the day, 85 on the trails and 15 on the road. Lots of playing with the suspensio setup and tyre pressures but I think it's feeling sweet now.

Overall the bikes amazing for my riding style which is heavily gravity orientated. I did find the brakes a little weak but got used to them, and the dropper was annoying, slipping, dropping unexpectedly and the front tyre wasn't as grippy as I would like. All things that are easily fixed.

All up I'm loving it. Bring on tomorrow ????

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How good are they!
Change the tires and go tubeless if you haven’t already. Makes a big difference.

Enjoy that beautiful beast!
 
Wow! What a beauty! Nice Renthal bars!
Enjoy your new love!
I know I do...
The brakes are crap.. true. Get some Hope's on there w/floating discs... And you will never worry about brakes again!
I didn't like the dropper at first, but once used to it.. I love it now. Just have to learn where the three "stops" are... You get used to it.
Get a narrower grippier tire for the front... Like a DHR.. and a set of cushcore inserts, so you can run lower pressure without risking damaging rims.. a
IMG_20190419_105512.jpg
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nd your set to go!
It's a real mean machine!
Oh... And install BLevo! If you haven't yet..
Tim
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Thanks for the tips, tyres and inserts are definitely next on the list. I will run the dropper for a bit to see if I get used to it. As far as brakes go I have had a good run with both my RSC and saints but will also look in to hope's.
 
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