I also noticed the power reduction below 20% battery level. On the one hand, this is quite early, but on the other hand, it is a good protection for 1P range extenders so as not to trigger the BMS too early.I did another run today. 35km, 1060m of elevation. Some of it was on boost, majority, in sport and eco on the flats. Came home with 12% battery left. Motor for sure has a lot of power. For me, more than enough. In boost is is very rapid. But the battery from 30% to 20% was drained very quickly. And below 20% you are getting only cca 120w max, regardless of the power mode.
Bike also handles well. Additional weight on the downs is quickly forgotten.
M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)
- Thread starter mike_kelly
- Start date
haydz26
New Member
what has everyone ended up with in terms of steerer tube length on the forks? im piecing together all my bits but looking at used forks but wanting to know roughly how much steerer length ill be needing. cheers
Sorry I forgot to measure, I think mine was 180mm and it’s ok! I even have a spacer, I need to double check
Just checked the specs and the head tube lenght for size L is 120mm, check your wanted stem and see the total
Last edited:
temon10
Well-known member
Different frame size have different head tube length. Mine on size M need 18,5cm steertube length with Renthal stem.
TobyB
New Member
I spoke to Anna Shen from Fieldebikes Co., Ltd. and they do have stock of the main cable for the M820, it was $18 for the cable and $20 shipping and some tax on top. I asked her if she could confirm a picture and she sent this one. I asked if she had additional stock and they do, so if anyone is looking for one they have them. Apparently, there is 5 more days of national holiday and she estimated 8 days ship time to the USA. This maybe useful for @brbr @kaylee.s @Utility or anyone else looking to get one in a quicker time period.
kaylee.s
New Member
I sent that picture to them when requesting a cable. (that picture came from Jim at lightcarbon).
TobyB
New Member
Fingers crossed they checked and we are getting the correct ones. The company I purchased my units from unfortunately don't seem to have stock and a back up won't hurt to have when it does come. I figured this should be 15 days ish vs 40 days, so if I'm able to get out 3 weeks or so sooner I'll be happy with that!
I picked up mine and my wife's frames yesterday! They look great! I'll post some pictures when I start the build.
I picked up mine and my wife's frames yesterday! They look great! I'll post some pictures when I start the build.
Goff
Member
Does anyone know how to pair a DP E181.CAN display using the Bafang app GO+. My app sees the device but won’t pair.
Correct me someone if I am wrong but I believe it is only compatible with Bafang GO app, not GO+.
Goff
Member
Ok thanks I will try that.
Goff
Member
Yep that worked
Thank you for that help.
TobyB
New Member
It seems ok to me! And yes 2 cables here
your are not satisfied by the pike ? i find it working well and it's more light than others . what is the size of your tires / travel of your suspension and the BB height (crank shaft axis to ground)View attachment 126165
I still need to upgrade the fork (I almost did it yesterday for a 170 Lyrik at 230€ but I have a house to build)
For now it’s around 19.9kg with full btf014 battery
It’s a revelation with pike stickers
It’s a 160mm front and I have a 185x55 in the back.
I have 2.6 tire in front and 2.4 in the back, these tires are great, but the longevity seems bad…
I did not mesure the bb height yet
temon10
Well-known member
Little bit heavy because of coil shock?View attachment 126165
I still need to upgrade the fork (I almost did it yesterday for a 170 Lyrik at 230€ but I have a house to build
For now it’s around 19.9kg with full btf014 battery
Yeah the shock is heavy! Also, I have the original steel spider that I need to replace and my tires are quite heavy as well. The only light thing here is the fork that I want to replace
kaylee.s
New Member
Hi guys, in the middle of my build, I presume the extra cable to the control panel is for a different controller or maybe a light 
. I'm not sure if the magnet on the rear wheel is connecting as the motor isn't kicking in when I turn the cranks and spin the wheel. I Don't want to take toe motor off to see if everything is still connected as it was some job to get it on.
Can't wait to finish this
. I'm not sure if the magnet on the rear wheel is connecting as the motor isn't kicking in when I turn the cranks and spin the wheel. I Don't want to take toe motor off to see if everything is still connected as it was some job to get it on. Can't wait to finish this
TobyB
New Member
I believe that extra one is for the Beest tool ( to update software and tune the motor) I'm not sure where it's supposed to sit though, where does everyone else have it located? I'm waiting on this cable then I'll start my build.Hi guys, in the middle of my build, I presume the extra cable to the control panel is for a different controller or maybe a light
Can't wait to finish this
View attachment 126335 View attachment 126336 View attachment 126337 View attachment 126339 View attachment 126340 View attachment 126341
i don't know for the m820, but if it's alike other M series, it's normal if the motor don't turn when you turn crank arms with wheels in air. It's need effort on torque sensor and you can provide that only with resist with wheel on ground. Check if speed is diplayed on HMI when you turn cranks to control if speed sensor working correctely
Do you have a pic of your cable before connecting it? Or do you remember all the plugs? It should be connected to battery, motor and display. The light cables are just simple cables with no connector.Hi guys, in the middle of my build, I presume the extra cable to the control panel is for a different controller or maybe a light
Can't wait to finish this
View attachment 126335 View attachment 126336 View attachment 126337 View attachment 126339 View attachment 126340
And also, speed sensor should ve connected directly to the motor
Thanks for that
, hopefully it's like the other M series. Will give it a check tomorrow
thaeber
Well-known member
If You are brave enough to drill and mill slotted holes into Your frame, I would recommend rubber grommets like this and skip the routing through the headset…
TobyB
New Member
I'd be cautious to drill any holes as it could structurally effect your frame especially in that headtube junction area. I work with composites a little and I would imagine there is not the necessary excess in material or strength to be able to start cutting holes without consequences. I did however find a solution that might seem good, I haven't started my build yet but I'm going to mount the rear brake with these adhesive cable guide mounts and run that one on the outside, so ease of maintenance. I'll attempt to run the other through the headset. I guess if you did that with wireless shifting and dropper it would be even fewer cables.
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
Is this the raw color of the carbon frame?View attachment 126165
I still need to upgrade the fork (I almost did it yesterday for a 170 Lyrik at 230€ but I have a house to build
For now it’s around 19.9kg with full btf014 battery
thaeber
Well-known member
What makes me quite optimistic here is the fact that in the CEF50 tread You can see the frame is also optional available with exactly that slotted holes and grommets. I don’t think they reinforce the frame to machine the additional holes.
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