I had to remove the factory chainstay protector which gives a couple of extra mm.
I cut the STFU's as short as they could go. Clearance is tight and the chain touches them in the highest gear but it's not a problem out on the trail.
Is the AMFLOW this rattley?
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I cut the STFU's as short as they could go. Clearance is tight and the chain touches them in the highest gear but it's not a problem out on the trail.
Filth_88
New Member
The software fix is intriguing, and something they could implement to all motors within an update. You could even have it as a toggle selection and turn it off/on whenever required. Come on DJI.
-nick
New Member
For what it's worth I had a very rattly bike and coincidentally it stopped after I dropped the motor to fit the AXS cable. Perhaps the fly leads inside/unused connectors were causing the rattle.
All I hear now is tyres on the ground which is very satisfying!
All I hear now is tyres on the ground which is very satisfying!
nrgbod
Member
This happened to me as well. My bike never used to rattle at all but suddenly developed a 'motor' rattle at about 500miles. Shortly after this the speed sensor packed in. It came back from the speed sensor repair rattle free again, the same as it used to be.
GravityJunkie
Member
I just got like 3 weeks with my Teewing turbo force pro and first I thought the rattling or annoying knocking came from the headset but today I decided that it was to much and decided taking the display out to check inside and found that the knocking is from the battery that moves inside the frame even after tightening. The only way to solve this will be taking the battery out and put some rubber foaming around the battery but I have to say it’s pretty disappointing after spending almost 9k on a bike
Hi all – I’m adding a data point from a UNNO MITH Avinox (about 1500 km).
EDIT: Ignore the rest of the message. I fixed it, spoiler : it was the mudguard.
My bike/motor was NOT rattly from new, but I’ve developed a different noise that has gotten worse all of a sudden: it only happens when the rear suspension compresses hard (drops/preload/impacts). It sounds like a strong friction / yo-yo clutch buzz (“quack quack” on repeated compressions). Front-only fork compression does not reproduce it. It still happens with the motor OFF.
I used a wireless mic in multiple positions: the noise is strongest around the motor/BB area and much louder on the drivetrain/chain side than on the left side. It also seems more intense in the small cog vs big cog (could be partly speed-related). Shifting weight back / flexing the rear triangle increases the noise.
Video here:
I’ve tried removing a small plastic chain-retainer/guide piece above the chainring – no change. Also moved a rotor washer/spacer away from the disc – no change.
I have NOT yet tried turning off the hub/freehub pre-engagement setting (I saw a few posts mentioning it helped reduce rattle). Next steps for me are chain wear check, verifying T-Type chain length/setup, a “slack A/B test” using cage lock, and torque-checking motor mounts/pivots/shock hardware.
Has anyone experienced a compression-triggered noise like this that developed over time (not from day one)?
EDIT: Ignore the rest of the message. I fixed it, spoiler : it was the mudguard.
My bike/motor was NOT rattly from new, but I’ve developed a different noise that has gotten worse all of a sudden: it only happens when the rear suspension compresses hard (drops/preload/impacts). It sounds like a strong friction / yo-yo clutch buzz (“quack quack” on repeated compressions). Front-only fork compression does not reproduce it. It still happens with the motor OFF.
I used a wireless mic in multiple positions: the noise is strongest around the motor/BB area and much louder on the drivetrain/chain side than on the left side. It also seems more intense in the small cog vs big cog (could be partly speed-related). Shifting weight back / flexing the rear triangle increases the noise.
Video here:
I’ve tried removing a small plastic chain-retainer/guide piece above the chainring – no change. Also moved a rotor washer/spacer away from the disc – no change.
I have NOT yet tried turning off the hub/freehub pre-engagement setting (I saw a few posts mentioning it helped reduce rattle). Next steps for me are chain wear check, verifying T-Type chain length/setup, a “slack A/B test” using cage lock, and torque-checking motor mounts/pivots/shock hardware.
Has anyone experienced a compression-triggered noise like this that developed over time (not from day one)?
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John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
I think you ran over a duck.
I think I can see the fender move, has to be that. Otherwise, put it on a rack and let out the shock air so you can cycle it through the suspension with the rear wheel spinning. I'm sure it'll be obvious then.
I think I can see the fender move, has to be that. Otherwise, put it on a rack and let out the shock air so you can cycle it through the suspension with the rear wheel spinning. I'm sure it'll be obvious then.
ebikerider
Well-known member
Tyre hitting the back of the saddle?
Blownoutrides
Active member
Just wanted to say I picked up a Gen 5 Bosch bike and it is the quietest, smoothest thing I've ever ridden. It's like ASMR therapy. Pure bliss.
Sounds like the DJI power just comes at the expense of range. As a heavy rider I need all the range I can get. Even if you dial down the settings to be on par with a Bosch bike you've basically just traded a skinny downtube for a rattle.
Hopefully the new DJI motors solve the rattle in a way that doesn't come at the expense of range. If they do, they'll have the edge with that skinnier downtube (and a bit less weight?).
For now, I'll take a girthier downtube over a rattle.
Sounds like the DJI power just comes at the expense of range. As a heavy rider I need all the range I can get. Even if you dial down the settings to be on par with a Bosch bike you've basically just traded a skinny downtube for a rattle.
Hopefully the new DJI motors solve the rattle in a way that doesn't come at the expense of range. If they do, they'll have the edge with that skinnier downtube (and a bit less weight?).
For now, I'll take a girthier downtube over a rattle.
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Try to talk with your Bike Shop but Amflow says it is normal, but as you can see some bikes rattle and others NO.
Yeah, I spoke to Amflow online and they basically said get the bike shop to have a look at it. Bike is amazing power and weight wise, there is no denying that, best in class at the expense of potential motor rattle i guess.
Add chainring protection to the Avinox and the weight is the same, before you even consider that you might need a larger battery and the weight that comes with it.
If you can manage to get the efficiency of the CXR even better.
You dont have a clue
Just the opposite, the DJI goes just as far as your slow motor. You just have to turn it down to grandma speed to where the power is equal to the bosch turtle motor.
My DJI does 30 miles and 4000' of climbing easy enough. Did 40 miles one day and 4400' of climbing in the summer when was new. And it does it quietly without rattle.
99% dont have that issue. Mine is as silent as an ebike can be, as are most of my members.
Like any ebike cables can rattle, it is not always the motor that causes noise. I run a DJI FB page, and we dont get rattle complaints 14,800 members and we have only had a small handful on people complaining about a rattle. Under 5 people and a few fixed it by cable routing.
There is a setting in the app that shuts off most of the rattle complaints, and many times it cables. The first gen motors that were sold in the EU/UK did have rattles, and Amflow came out with a fix which fixed the majority of the complaints.
Search for the app setting that stops or lessens the rattle
Blownoutrides
Active member
Hahaha what I have is a bike that doesn't rattle.
RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE
My amflow is dead silent. Bosch bike is also silent.
You guys gotta realize you’re also dealing with the people on the internet that have zero clue how to do any bike work. Them self diagnosing motor rattle when it likely isn’t the motor is very common. I saw some guy claim an amflow frame crack with a pic of where his yoke bashed the frame from changing his shock. Also, if you see some of these guys bikes and how hideous they upgrade them, it’s hard to take everyone’s word for what you read on the internet.
The avinox is silent, don’t let the rattle rumors sway you. The Bosch is also a good motor. IMO I prefer Avinox, but both are great. Get along and have fun riding!
You guys gotta realize you’re also dealing with the people on the internet that have zero clue how to do any bike work. Them self diagnosing motor rattle when it likely isn’t the motor is very common. I saw some guy claim an amflow frame crack with a pic of where his yoke bashed the frame from changing his shock. Also, if you see some of these guys bikes and how hideous they upgrade them, it’s hard to take everyone’s word for what you read on the internet.
The avinox is silent, don’t let the rattle rumors sway you. The Bosch is also a good motor. IMO I prefer Avinox, but both are great. Get along and have fun riding!
John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
For all the guys with rattly bikes they can pay attention to on the trail, I didn't know paved green trails were that bumpy?!
Blownoutrides
Active member
I know 2 guys with DJI bikes and they both rattle. Rob's Crestline sounded like a utensil drawer falling down the stairs.
Hey, if yours doesn't that's great. Hopefully they solve it with the next release.
Way to to overreact though. That was hilarious.
"The lady doth protest too much, methinks."
Bosch CX Gen 5 rattle
Anyone else experiencing rattle going down on gen 5? Mine was quite silent in the begining, but after about 300km something started to rattle. I have hard time pin pointing exact location of the rattle, feels like it could be coming from higher up from downtube / battery area, but probably just...
www.emtbforums.com
Just fyi, there’s also a Bosch gen 5 rattle thread…
100% but i do get a few complaints, but on the same hand ive also heard people complain about the EP801 and say it rattles, and mine and everyone I know that runs one, are all dead silent like my Amflow
If some of you hadn’t said that you’re ‘old guys’ I’d have thought I was reading something written by children.
Come on, who cares if somebody thinks your motor rattles, and it doesn’t?
Stop taking everything so personally, and if you’ve got any fixes or ideas for people who do have rattles, then perhaps share them?
Come on, who cares if somebody thinks your motor rattles, and it doesn’t?
Stop taking everything so personally, and if you’ve got any fixes or ideas for people who do have rattles, then perhaps share them?
Yes, I was hoping for some suggestions\discussion, not childish comments.
The motor definitely rattles as it only does it while coasting over rough terrain, something that has been reported by some owners. I tried the option in the motor settings and that did not work. It isn't the cables as I have checked. If some motors do not rattle, I basically want one of those fitted to the bike.
Outside of that one noise issue, the bike is phenomenal.
The motor definitely rattles as it only does it while coasting over rough terrain, something that has been reported by some owners. I tried the option in the motor settings and that did not work. It isn't the cables as I have checked. If some motors do not rattle, I basically want one of those fitted to the bike.
Outside of that one noise issue, the bike is phenomenal.
It's been discussed a lot about the avinox motor rattle, there have been numerous review videos and users reports that the rattle is real, even Rob chimed in to offer his view when he had a preproduction unit. The conclusions are that some rattle, some don't, but will probably develop rattle down the road as it's inevitable due to the internal gearing structure(gear backlash of metal to metal).
Why some don't rattle at the start? Gear tolerances, thicker grease and tighter seals(a revised motor version by dji supposedly). If you have ever seen an open motor after a few thousand km you know that the grease is everywhere except on the gears. A colder environment where the grease doesn’t break down from heat or spread away from the gears is obviously beneficial, but only delays the inevitable. My opinion was/is that the two main big gears also rattle(probably the motors that have a louder rattle)as the tolerances on straight cut gears tend to be less tight and there is no lateral force to push the gears together. While helical gears due to the shape of teeth inherently push them self's into each other and so create a tighter connection.
Rob mentioned that on his test motor the gears in blue(are slightly helical I think-would need to see it irl) rattled when tested, which is quite understandable as it's really hard to achieve a tight tolerance in a multiple(ring and three planets) gear system. As a matter of fact there actually needs to be some extra space between the gears for material heat expansion and space for grease to stick to the gears surface otherwise the gears would self destroy due to excessive grinding. All this precision is really hard to achieve, and slight errors in material, bearings not pressed in straight, assembly mistakes, grease amount, seal type, etc... create motors that rattle from start and others that probably will develop it later on or if driven lightly in a colder environment maybe never. There maybe be exceptions(unicorns) that were assembled perfectly and the tolerances are to point and so are dead silent.
Those riding them Unicorns consider yourselves lucky bastards as you have been chosen by the emtb universe for it's children and try not to convince others that weren't that the Rattle isn't real.
Why some don't rattle at the start? Gear tolerances, thicker grease and tighter seals(a revised motor version by dji supposedly). If you have ever seen an open motor after a few thousand km you know that the grease is everywhere except on the gears. A colder environment where the grease doesn’t break down from heat or spread away from the gears is obviously beneficial, but only delays the inevitable. My opinion was/is that the two main big gears also rattle(probably the motors that have a louder rattle)as the tolerances on straight cut gears tend to be less tight and there is no lateral force to push the gears together. While helical gears due to the shape of teeth inherently push them self's into each other and so create a tighter connection.
Rob mentioned that on his test motor the gears in blue(are slightly helical I think-would need to see it irl) rattled when tested, which is quite understandable as it's really hard to achieve a tight tolerance in a multiple(ring and three planets) gear system. As a matter of fact there actually needs to be some extra space between the gears for material heat expansion and space for grease to stick to the gears surface otherwise the gears would self destroy due to excessive grinding. All this precision is really hard to achieve, and slight errors in material, bearings not pressed in straight, assembly mistakes, grease amount, seal type, etc... create motors that rattle from start and others that probably will develop it later on or if driven lightly in a colder environment maybe never. There maybe be exceptions(unicorns) that were assembled perfectly and the tolerances are to point and so are dead silent.
Those riding them Unicorns consider yourselves lucky bastards as you have been chosen by the emtb universe for it's children and try not to convince others that weren't that the Rattle isn't real.
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It's been discussed a lot about the avinox motor rattle, there have been numerous review videos and users reports that the rattle is real, even Rob chimed in to offer his view when he had a preproduction unit. The conclusions are that some rattle, some don't, but will probably develop rattle down the road as it's inevitable due to the internal gearing structure(gear backlash of metal to metal).
Why some don't rattle at the start? Gear tolerances, thicker grease and tighter seals(a revised motor version by dji supposedly). If you have ever seen an open motor after a few thousand km you know that the grease is everywhere except on the gears. A colder environment where the grease doesn’t break down from heat or spread away from the gears is obviously beneficial, but only delays the inevitable. My opinion was/is that the two main big gears also rattle(probably the motors that have a louder rattle)as the tolerances on straight cut gears tend to be less tight and there is no lateral force to push the gears together. While helical gears due to the shape of teeth inherently push them self's into each other and so create a tighter connection.
Rob mentioned that on his test motor the gears in blue(are slightly helical I think-would need to see it irl) rattled when tested, which is quite understandable as it's really hard to achieve a tight tolerance in a multiple(ring and three planets) gear system. As a matter of fact there actually needs to be some extra space between the gears for material heat expansion and space for grease to stick to the gears surface otherwise the gears would self destroy due to excessive grinding. All this precision is really hard to achieve, and slight errors in material, bearings not pressed in straight, assembly mistakes, grease amount, seal type, etc... create motors that rattle from start and others that probably will develop it later on or if driven lightly in a colder environment maybe never. There maybe be exceptions(unicorns) that were assembled perfectly and the tolerances are to point and so are dead silent.
Those riding them Unicorns consider yourselves lucky bastards as you have been chosen by the emtb universe for it's children and try not to convince others that weren't that the Rattle isn't real.
View attachment 174611 View attachment 174612
Thanks for that. I really need to hear some other owners bikes who claim their bike doesn't rattle as well. I think new owners and those not mechanically minded who do experience this rattle are obviously going to be concerned that there is something lose in the motor. Any rattle is usually concerning even if it is not actually a mechanical problem.
My motor has no discernable rattle (yet?), it has 2000km, The bike had sram 70 and was avinox branded rather than DJI so perhaps a later iteration. I almost never use the bike with no assistance and rarely pedal over the limiter.
It could be that I'm not very sensitive to the noises but I can't hear anything - when I demo'ed a gen4 bosch I could hear that rattle - gen 5's didn't, the bike has mudguards on at the moment which can make a bit of noise so in summer with them off I might be in a better position to detect it.
It could be that I'm not very sensitive to the noises but I can't hear anything - when I demo'ed a gen4 bosch I could hear that rattle - gen 5's didn't, the bike has mudguards on at the moment which can make a bit of noise so in summer with them off I might be in a better position to detect it.
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Tighten/torque the bolts that the water bottle bolts attach to (they’re nested bolts). That quieted mine down.
Blownoutrides
Active member
NOOOOOO! My ego can't handle it. Is there someone I can yell at here online to make myself feel better?Bosch CX Gen 5 rattle
Anyone else experiencing rattle going down on gen 5? Mine was quite silent in the begining, but after about 300km something started to rattle. I have hard time pin pointing exact location of the rattle, feels like it could be coming from higher up from downtube / battery area, but probably just...
Just fyi, there’s also a Bosch gen 5 rattle thread…
Seriously though that would suck. I think the rattle on my last bike (gen 4) had a way bigger negative impact on my experience than the 61lb weight. Noises to me mean something's wrong and then I'm thinking about that instead of trail/fun. They are a big bummer. Some folks aren't fussed though... envy them!
