I hv carbon wheels, ti spring for the shock, selle italia slr seat, 32t chainring, superlight carbon pedals..which helps to reduce the weight.
Dengfu E10 - Build-up
- Thread starter Bogdan
- Start date
I hv carbon wheels, ti spring for the shock, selle italia slr seat, 32t chainring, superlight carbon pedals..which helps to reduce the weight.
thaeber
Well-known member
Thanks mate - so You are running the Dengfu 840 Wh battery?
I think its the 768Wh battery. They couldn't supply the 840Wh battery as it was on backorder.
thaeber
Well-known member
Ah ok - so may be this also saves a couple of 100 grams - thanks!
Last edited:
I confirm you can get to sub 24kg with the M600 and 840Wh battery. Even with a coil shock my bike is just over 23Kg including a big 750lbs/in coil, like you I have the Mezzer fork. Here are some key areas where I looked to save weight:
I saved quite a bit of weight with Carbonal wheelset, carbon rims save a bit compared to Alu, and Sapim CX Ray spokes are really strong & light (but expensive), wheelset only 1630g with DT Swiss 350 hubs.
SRAM XD 'machined from solid' rear cassette save quite a bit compared to Shimano equivalents, but again more expensive.
Magura MT7 brakes, their carbotecture levers are nice & light, paired with shimano Ice tech rotors which are mostly aluminium, saves a bit more weight
And of course I use dirty cheap Chinese carbon bars
But if I was doing the build again, I wouldn't waste time with all the lightweight stuff, M600 is so powerful I doubt you would tell much difference between components.
thaeber
Well-known member
…and may be my scales are just a piece of shit, honestly! I used a body weight scale and a luggage scale - hopefully both are a little on the pessimistic side ?
I confirm you can get to sub 24kg with the M600 and 840Wh battery. Even with a coil shock my bike is just over 23Kg including a big 750lbs/in coil, like you I have the Mezzer fork. Here are some key areas where I looked to save weight:
I saved quite a bit of weight with Carbonal wheelset, carbon rims save a bit compared to Alu, and Sapim CX Ray spokes are really strong & light (but expensive), wheelset only 1630g with DT Swiss 350 hubs.
SRAM XD 'machined from solid' rear cassette save quite a bit compared to Shimano equivalents, but again more expensive.
Magura MT7 brakes, their carbotecture levers are nice & light, paired with shimano Ice tech rotors which are mostly aluminium, saves a bit more weight
And of course I use dirty cheap Chinese carbon bars
But if I was doing the build again, I wouldn't waste time with all the lightweight stuff, M600 is so powerful I doubt you would tell much difference between components.
I agree, the torque is insane and if the torque delivery is slightly more subtle, this motor is a real winner. I am only using PAS 1/9 for all terrain profile whilst shifting gears to suit the cadence. My only gripe is i have do micro ratcheting to avoid the surge of torque when negotiating gnarly technical climbs which really disrupt my flow.
Yeah the torque delivery is kind of on or off!
Wilfried
New Member
Hallo bitte um hilfe,
komme aus Österreich habe jetzt die Software 14.6 auf der M600
mit bess tool aufgespielt funktioniert super nur jetzt geht die anzeige des akkus nicht mehr immer auf 100% was kann ich dagegen tun, dass die anzeige des akkus wieder korrekt ist.
Danke für Ihre Hilfe
Wilfried
komme aus Österreich habe jetzt die Software 14.6 auf der M600
mit bess tool aufgespielt funktioniert super nur jetzt geht die anzeige des akkus nicht mehr immer auf 100% was kann ich dagegen tun, dass die anzeige des akkus wieder korrekt ist.
Danke für Ihre Hilfe
Wilfried
Malagni84
New Member
is there any chance of getting the Program for the 3d printing or the model drawing this is smart AF, or better would you make/sell one in black?
captainhightop
Active member
Ouch, that sucks, definitely looks like an impact from the rear side of the linkage.
captainhightop
Active member
210x55
I guess if you let all the air out so you can totally bottom out the shock to check interference, that would rule out any impacts, correct me if I'm wrong here. I'm not sure if under extreme pressure (e.g. landing badly etc.) it can compress the shock even further though.
thaeber
Well-known member
210 - 55 = 155 compressed length. I‘m running a Cane Creek DB Coil 216 x 63 with one 2 mm offset bushing: 216 - 2 = 214. 214 - 63 = 151 compressed length. I measured it, and tried it out, running the bike for 8 month and 2.000 km, serious drops and rough descending with many times bottom out. No issues. This looks like You picked up something in a very unhappy second, in between the rear bridge and the seattube. Possible?
It is a apreciation or based on real testing ? Personally i use 216x63 on XL frame with standard bushing since more 1 year whitout problem. As i have explained i have doing that after measuring and i have share the values for everybody can perform her choice with facts not on recomendations performed by somebody who havn't any knowledge
But i don't ride in bike park , i don't make jumps of several meters (too old), my spring is adapted for my (heavy) wehigt to minimise tailgating (it occur rarely). I don't ride also on sticky mud who can accumulat on link and wedging a stone between the link and the seat tube (i had never have mud accumulate between the arms links alike the pic ). I have also apply protection film on seat tube (whitout effiency for this problem).
This is the defect of carbon frame, under impact it's crack, with alloy it have only a distorsion. I'm not sure that the same problem can't occur with 210x55 in same condition ?
In add i precise that 216x63 is necessary for me for my use and have any BB height as i want.
Let me correct my wording, as maybe its not fully OK:
1) we dont know if really linkage/wheel hit seat post. Based on photo this is not confirmed, and maybe it was just rock/wood/debree hitting seatpost because of small clearance. Also we dont know what is rear wheel size and conditions of "hit". Big jump, or rock garden ride?
2) each bike manufacturer define leverage ratio applied (LAA) based on bike geometry, stroke and travel. If you change one parameter (wheel size), stroke (from default 55 to 63) it can have implications on travel size and how geometry behave during travel. Based on plain numbers, 216 with 63 stroke does not mean anything bad, if there is linear progresivity of shock based f.e. on different setup or just using spring instead of air. But, when running dirty jumps over 2 meters, this must be not just calculated, but also correcty set/tested based on common knowledge/experience with of shock behaviour and frame geometry. And one must expect, when I use longer stroke i must expect longer travel, so adjustments of shock and tuning must be done correctly, as margin for error (clearance) is probably less then using 210/55 shock.
I did one test with mine 210/50->55 and 216/63 on Mframe. both debonair, on 216x63 with maximum travel linkage was 1-2mm from frame, meaning that if i fly to hard drop or catch a wood, there is near zero clearance. I am confident, with some buttons on shock or increased linearity this can be handled, but i didnt go this way. In case yes, then shock with coil is from my POV preferred way. But i dont assume this as "test", more like as "observation".
1) we dont know if really linkage/wheel hit seat post. Based on photo this is not confirmed, and maybe it was just rock/wood/debree hitting seatpost because of small clearance. Also we dont know what is rear wheel size and conditions of "hit". Big jump, or rock garden ride?
2) each bike manufacturer define leverage ratio applied (LAA) based on bike geometry, stroke and travel. If you change one parameter (wheel size), stroke (from default 55 to 63) it can have implications on travel size and how geometry behave during travel. Based on plain numbers, 216 with 63 stroke does not mean anything bad, if there is linear progresivity of shock based f.e. on different setup or just using spring instead of air. But, when running dirty jumps over 2 meters, this must be not just calculated, but also correcty set/tested based on common knowledge/experience with of shock behaviour and frame geometry. And one must expect, when I use longer stroke i must expect longer travel, so adjustments of shock and tuning must be done correctly, as margin for error (clearance) is probably less then using 210/55 shock.
I did one test with mine 210/50->55 and 216/63 on Mframe. both debonair, on 216x63 with maximum travel linkage was 1-2mm from frame, meaning that if i fly to hard drop or catch a wood, there is near zero clearance. I am confident, with some buttons on shock or increased linearity this can be handled, but i didnt go this way. In case yes, then shock with coil is from my POV preferred way. But i dont assume this as "test", more like as "observation".
Ok, You don't saied it is wrong to use 216x63, but you estimate that space available fully compressed is not safety. It is more than 1mm, i do'nt remember exactely but i have noted that with 215x60 it is 5mm.
I'm agree that 5mm fully compressed is less safety than 10. but my opinion is for this case precisely (accumulation of clay), i don't think that having 210x50 could have avoided the problem. I have allready had the rear whell blocked by clay and i have removed all with parts of wood before to continue and take risk of that an compression stuck an stone between the link and the seat tube. I don't take the same prevency with alloy frame. To be honest i didn't want carbon frame where i ride (pyrenees), but the dengfu at this time was the alone in my size. I don't regret, it is a super frame and by lucky for the moment i havn't broken the frame (i have allready broken a alloy frame), but i know that carbon resist less at impacts
Ok it's my own fault just noticed put my offset bush in the wrong way it's still hard where it's peeled so going to to send it down and put a couple of layers of carbon on there are hopefully we'll be all good
captainhightop
Active member
I've seen much worse carbon issues fixed in the past (only on youtube though!), not done it myself though! Looks a fairly easy spot to repair though.
Here's the video I watched (they hacksawed the chainstay to test how easy it was
:Puschtrale
Active member
Wow, is this a e10 frame? I really like the color and the combination with the blacj in the front triangle. May i ask how you painted it? Do you maybe have some drawings for me so that i could try it with mine?
You can down Hill with the brake lever in this position ? what is the function of the white points on the frame ? ( to make the curious talk
?)This photo has been taken with some portrait Option on the phone .Brake lever is normal position .Litle reflective dots on frame are reference points for 3D scanningYou can down Hill with the brake lever in this position ? what is the function of the white points on the frame ? ( to make the curious talk
interesting. what (and how) you doing with 3d scanning ?
So you removed all bearings from frame and greased frame housing and pressed bearings back in? I’ve noticed mine makes a lot of creaking noises. Do you need to grease motor bolts where they tighten to the carbon As well?i marked related spots with red circles. i am parktool guy, so green lube from PT used. But any apropriate will do. In past i used from ATE Germany. Picture i used is bogdans machine, hope its not a problem.
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