thaeber
Well-known member
Thanks mate! My body scale says 25.8 kg with the Vivid Air. With the Cane Creek it will be slightly over 26 kg. Including the 600g Shimano Saint Pedals.Wow, that's SERIOUS workmanship! weight please?
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Thanks mate! My body scale says 25.8 kg with the Vivid Air. With the Cane Creek it will be slightly over 26 kg. Including the 600g Shimano Saint Pedals.Wow, that's SERIOUS workmanship! weight please?
Did you just drill straight through the frame? I can't find where the charger goes!Just wanted to ask if this hole os for the charging port?
Left side of the frame above the motor.
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LOL, no its was there when I got it....Did you just drill straight through the frame? I can't find where the charger goes!
Your frame finishing looks really good. Mine wasn't and I was compelled to paint it after realisation that vinyl wrapping isn't so easy...Frame just turned up out of the blue (ordered 3rd March), thought it was still in China. Thankfully no import tax to pay? It looks great, I don't feel the need to paint it, maybe I'll cut some vinyl decals later on. Motor and batts arrived a month ago. Off we go!!!
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Awesome!Your frame finishing looks really good. Mine wasn't and I was compelled to paint it after realisation that vinyl wrapping isn't so easy...
Ended up wrapping only the bottom part to mask the poor fit of the battery cover...
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Mate, that colour is awesome. Would you mind telling me what colour it is?Your frame finishing looks really good. Mine wasn't and I was compelled to paint it after realisation that vinyl wrapping isn't so easy...
Ended up wrapping only the bottom part to mask the poor fit of the battery cover...
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Thanks mate. Sure the colour is called silver grey and the colour code is RAL 7001. Should be available from most manufacturers.Mate, that colour is awesome. Would you mind telling me what colour it is?
Very Nice! The favorite coulor of the Daltons ?new View attachment 63815 update
Hi , can any body help me in the picture attached that i took from this thread, right at the beginning, there is a cable tidy under the battery lock mechanism which i high lighted. I received my frame like a week ago i have sprayed it etc and upon building it back up i noticed that i have a massive gap under the battery mechanism with a hole in the lock mechanism that looks as though it should have a holing bolt in but no rivnut like the other cable tidies, no aluminium plate tidy cables , no bolt, no spacer, nothing, just a 10mm gap under the battery lock mech on mine..... i will take a pic when i can, has anybody else had this issue? and what should i do? contact melody? only now i have sprayed the frame is it too late?
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My frame is as yours just a gap. They deleted that bit in the pic. But apparently we have a stronger battery cover? (supposedly)Hi , can any body help me in the picture attached that i took from this thread, right at the beginning, there is a cable tidy under the battery lock mechanism which i high lighted. I received my frame like a week ago i have sprayed it etc and upon building it back up i noticed that i have a massive gap under the battery mechanism with a hole in the lock mechanism that looks as though it should have a holing bolt in but no rivnut like the other cable tidies, no aluminium plate tidy cables , no bolt, no spacer, nothing, just a 10mm gap under the battery lock mech on mine..... i will take a pic when i can, has anybody else had this issue? and what should i do? contact melody? only now i have sprayed the frame is it too late?
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Hi, i am thinking of programming the bafang m600 motor. Has any body got any recommendations....
I found this recommended free resource E-Bike Conversion – Software - download program and then i need to purchase a relevant USB cable and connect.
Thank you for the reply, it has made me feel marginally better knowing an answer and that I'm not the only one, but as an engineer I'm really struggling to accept that, it looks like it should be there and if I was honest all that weight on that top bit it makes sense that it should be there.... I think I'm going to message Melody anyway and see what has gone on.... The picture I ripped on this thread wasn't all that long before I received mine so it seems odd to me....My frame is as yours just a gap. They deleted that bit in the pic. But apparently we have a stronger battery cover? (supposedly)
I don't have it ever so far it's been ok jumps and drops when you think about it the battery weight is on the down tube and bottom partThank you for the reply, it has made me feel marginally better knowing an answer and that I'm not the only one, but as an engineer I'm really struggling to accept that, it looks like it should be there and if I was honest all that weight on that top bit it makes sense that it should be there.... I think I'm going to message Melody anyway and see what has gone on.... The picture I ripped on this thread wasn't all that long before I received mine so it seems odd to me....
Sorry to revive an old part but I too used to grease pivot links, mainly just the shaft as they are sealed bearings and was going through a fair few bearings ... I spoke to a bike mechanic at my LBS and he went mental at me, he said no wonder you keep going through them if you are greasing them, all you are doing is creating an area that loves to attract dirt and as you use the travel allowing that to be worked into the bearings, he said Never grease pivot links they are sealed bearings for a reason or older bikes with self lubricating material like brass for a reason.... it made sense at the time and I got to admit since I listened to his advice I haven't changed one since.....i marked related spots with red circles. i am parktool guy, so green lube from PT used. But any apropriate will do. In past i used from ATE Germany. Picture i used is bogdans machine , hope its not a problem.
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Yeh I get it and both top and bottom would have to rip through the frame before they actually come out, I guess that's why engineers almost always over engineer.... Just seems odd to change the design but leave the bracket with a mounting hole as it makes it look unfinished) something missing....I don't have it ever so far it's been ok jumps and drops when you think about it the battery weight is on the down tube and bottom part
Yes I can imagine. Just a theory, but you might find that the earlier frame did not have a backing piece behind the lock. these new ones do. This stops the lock from being pushed up the frame and gives added strength. So there is no need for the third /top screw. And lets be honest if you are making 1000 frames and you can save 10c on the frame that's a whopping $100 saving. But this is just a theory. I think I might be wrong there looking closer at your pick it looks like there might be a backing piece sp maybe talking out rump.Thank you for the reply, it has made me feel marginally better knowing an answer and that I'm not the only one, but as an engineer I'm really struggling to accept that, it looks like it should be there and if I was honest all that weight on that top bit it makes sense that it should be there.... I think I'm going to message Melody anyway and see what has gone on.... The picture I ripped on this thread wasn't all that long before I received mine so it seems odd to me....
First revision haven't screw but insert is available on frame to fix the wire guide. It was enough to install an longer screw to solidarise the assembly. this allowed me to make my battery fixing reinforcementsYes I can imagine. Just a theory, but you might find that the earlier frame did not have a backing piece behind the lock. these new ones do. This stops the lock from being pushed up the frame and gives added strength. So there is no need for the third /top screw. And lets be honest if you are making 1000 frames and you can save 10c on the frame that's a whopping $100 saving. But this is just a theory. I think I might be wrong there looking closer at your pick it looks like there might be a backing piece sp maybe talking out rump.
Yes I can imagine. Just a theory, but you might find that the earlier frame did not have a backing piece behind the lock. these new ones do. This stops the lock from being pushed up the frame and gives added strength. So there is no need for the third /top screw. And lets be honest if you are making 1000 frames and you can save 10c on the frame that's a whopping $100 saving. But this is just a theory. I think I might be wrong there looking closer at your pick it looks like there might be a backing piece sp maybe talking out rump.
Jury's still out on the tan walled tyres for me though, but frame color looks very nice.
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