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There’s video of it on YouTube. Just look up “crestline assembly”. It’s very very simple. 5 min jobJust ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!
Congrats! I can only speak to 181.1 frame set. 600Wh battery install and removal is easy, 2 external screws underside of down tube secure the battery. 800Wh is not so easy, bottom screw is same on down tube, top screw is under the display and require magnetic torx screwdriver to pull out of frame. You don’t want to drop that screw inside the frame.Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!
Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!m
I hope they start selling the 600 in the US. I def want to buy oneCongrats! I can only speak to 181.1 frame set. 600Wh battery install and removal is easy, 2 external screws underside of down tube secures the battery. 800Wh is not so easy, bottom screw is same on down tube, top screw is under the display and require magnetic torx screwdriver to pull out of frame. You don’t want to drop that screw inside the frame.
Thanks!!! Didn’t realise one size would be more difficult than the other. I’d be looking to swap between sizes. Sounds like the juice may not be worth the squeeze.Congrats! I can only speak to 181.1 frame set. 600Wh battery install and removal is easy, 2 external screws underside of down tube secures the battery. 800Wh is not so easy, bottom screw is same on down tube, top screw is under the display and require magnetic torx screwdriver to pull out of frame. You don’t want to drop that screw inside the frame.
My RH4 is right at 51 poundsCurious for current Crestline/DJI owners, what are some of the total build weights ending up at?
Fanatik has one listed at 48.7 lbs, RH2, but must have 600wh battery. Most of the ones I have seen or read were few pounds north of 50lbs.Curious for current Crestline/DJI owners, what are some of the total build weights ending up at?

Its possible. I have a near identical set up and my bike was 49lbs with a 800w. I was rocking ohlins front and rear (coil). Gained a little weight moving to rockshox. Tires also play a big factor in weight.Fanatik has one listed at 48.7 lbs, RH2, but must have 600wh battery. Most of the ones I have seen or read were few pounds north of 50lbs.
Full build specs are listed, but couldnt find battery info. Idk, that weight seems suspect to me, but I dont know.
Thank you! Would you mind sharing your build spec? Or at least the core components. Fork, wheels, drivetrain, cockpit. Is that with the 800wh?My RH4 is right at 51 pounds
51.0 lbs with pedals: RH3, mx, 445 drop out, 600wh battery, kryptotal trail casing tires.Curious for current Crestline/DJI owners, what are some of the total build weights ending up at?
He’s probably just busy. I just got a response this afternoon from a question I asked on Thursday last week when I put my order in.I was hoping to email Crestline, made my first purchase a few days ago. Not getting any replies in 3 days now. Anyone know what I might be doing wrong? I would call if there was a number.
I am 6'/185lbs with 32" inseam, running a 40mm stem/155mm crankset and the RH3 fits like a glove.I will ask a question here. 190lbs, 5-10 with 32" inseam. Aggressive older guy. I ride all tech, up and down, never flow trails unless I am at a park. This would be my first ebike, and the part that is most exciting to me is the steeper climbs and obstacles I would be able to CLIMB.
I find myself on size Large bikes (XC and Trail frames) with 470-480 reach numbers because mediums seem can feel a bit crowded, BUT the large usually feels too big and has me trying to shrink saddle and stem, and raise the bars. I am a tweener.
Should I consider RH-2 or 3? If RH-2, what CS length do you guys suggest for climbing prowess?
I don’t think you’ll ever get a clear answer, so much is down the preference. I’m 5’10 ~165lb and ride a large 95% of the time. But I don’t find that they feel too big. I bought a rh3, have run 50mm and 40mm stems, either is fine, 445 cs mx setup. The space between my saddle and bars feels shorter than a lg bullit i was previously on but the wheelbase feels longer (and is).I will ask a question here. 190lbs, 5-10 with 32" inseam. Aggressive older guy. I ride all tech, up and down, never flow trails unless I am at a park. This would be my first ebike, and the part that is most exciting to me is the steeper climbs and obstacles I would be able to CLIMB.
I find myself on size Large bikes (XC and Trail frames) with 470-480 reach numbers because mediums seem can feel a bit crowded, BUT the large usually feels too big and has me trying to shrink saddle and stem, and raise the bars. I am a tweener.
Should I consider RH-2 or 3? If RH-2, what CS length do you guys suggest for climbing prowess?
The rule of thumb I'm aware of is .5 degrees for every 10mm added to under the headtube. I've run an extended lower cup on a previous bike, +15 and honestly made no noticeable difference. -10mm in fork travel to make up for the +14mm I think would be more noticable.Got a question for anyone running the works +/-5 headset, looks like it adds a bit of stack height underneath ~14mm. Have you adjusted anything ie fork travel in regard to how it affects the head angle? I’m not interested in making the bike slacker as a result.
You can also consider going with a slightly longer stem and adjusting spacers, say 42mm vs the 35mm OneUp. This will give a bit of reach and a dash of stack height without changing up the travel or head angle. Fine tune with spacers.Got a question for anyone running the works +/-5 headset, looks like it adds a bit of stack height underneath ~14mm. Have you adjusted anything ie fork travel in regard to how it affects the head angle? I’m not interested in making the bike slacker as a result.
If you’re gonna go electronic, might as well go sram so you can hardwire the power and get auto shift.Can anyone comment on DI2 connectivity?
Sram is so slow, I fall asleep. Shimano has a hardwire version. Does DJI not support it?If you’re gonna go electronic, might as well go sram so you can hardwire the power and get auto shift.
Thank you, that answers that. By slow I mean how long it takes to run the cassette. DI2 will run the cassette in less than half the time of what AXS does. As I understand it, T is slower. I am green to ebiking, but do realize that this is probably more important for non-ebike technical riding. On my pedal bikes, AXS drove me crazy. I am not an XC rider. I went to AXS from a 2x9 rapid rise. On that drivetrain I could drop half my gear range in half a second. To many this may sound meaningless, but in the desert with a lot of deep washes to climb out of, it is a big time difference, and less stalling frustration.Avinox does not integrate with Shimano, only SRAM. If "slow" refers to shifting speed I'd say you haven't seen any Type shift since the firmware update from a month or two ago. I think even multiple single shifts are too fast for the torque on an emtb.