Crestline x DJI - RS 181 SPECTRE Edition

Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!
 
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Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!
There’s video of it on YouTube. Just look up “crestline assembly”. It’s very very simple. 5 min job
 
Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!
Congrats! I can only speak to 181.1 frame set. 600Wh battery install and removal is easy, 2 external screws underside of down tube secure the battery. 800Wh is not so easy, bottom screw is same on down tube, top screw is under the display and require magnetic torx screwdriver to pull out of frame. You don’t want to drop that screw inside the frame.
 
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Just ordered a frameset. I’d love to know how easy/hard it is to remove the battery on the DJI equipped Crestline. I’m thinking about buying a 600Wh and an 800Wh and would like to know if it’s practical to change. Thanks!m

Congrats! I can only speak to 181.1 frame set. 600Wh battery install and removal is easy, 2 external screws underside of down tube secures the battery. 800Wh is not so easy, bottom screw is same on down tube, top screw is under the display and require magnetic torx screwdriver to pull out of frame. You don’t want to drop that screw inside the frame.
I hope they start selling the 600 in the US. I def want to buy one 😁
 
Congrats! I can only speak to 181.1 frame set. 600Wh battery install and removal is easy, 2 external screws underside of down tube secures the battery. 800Wh is not so easy, bottom screw is same on down tube, top screw is under the display and require magnetic torx screwdriver to pull out of frame. You don’t want to drop that screw inside the frame.
Thanks!!! Didn’t realise one size would be more difficult than the other. I’d be looking to swap between sizes. Sounds like the juice may not be worth the squeeze.
 
Curious for current Crestline/DJI owners, what are some of the total build weights ending up at?
Fanatik has one listed at 48.7 lbs, RH2, but must have 600wh battery. Most of the ones I have seen or read were few pounds north of 50lbs.

Full build specs are listed, but couldnt find battery info. Idk, that weight seems suspect to me, but I dont know.

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Fanatik has one listed at 48.7 lbs, RH2, but must have 600wh battery. Most of the ones I have seen or read were few pounds north of 50lbs.

Full build specs are listed, but couldnt find battery info. Idk, that weight seems suspect to me, but I dont know.
Its possible. I have a near identical set up and my bike was 49lbs with a 800w. I was rocking ohlins front and rear (coil). Gained a little weight moving to rockshox. Tires also play a big factor in weight.

1 lb or 2 lbs you're not going to notice anything. Its when you start hitting the 5lb range is where its noticeable.
 
My RH4 is right at 51 pounds
Thank you! Would you mind sharing your build spec? Or at least the core components. Fork, wheels, drivetrain, cockpit. Is that with the 800wh?

I’ve got most of the parts ready for the frame I just ordered, just curious of real world builds.

Thanks again!
 
I was hoping to email Crestline, made my first purchase a few days ago. Not getting any replies in 3 days now. Anyone know what I might be doing wrong? I would call if there was a number.
 
I was hoping to email Crestline, made my first purchase a few days ago. Not getting any replies in 3 days now. Anyone know what I might be doing wrong? I would call if there was a number.
He’s probably just busy. I just got a response this afternoon from a question I asked on Thursday last week when I put my order in.
 
I will ask a question here. 190lbs, 5-10 with 32" inseam. Aggressive older guy. I ride all tech, up and down, never flow trails unless I am at a park. This would be my first ebike, looking forward to steeper climbs and conquering uphill obstacles. This bike will also be used for aggressive technical descents.

I usually buy size Large bikes (XC and Trail frames) with 470-480 reach numbers because mediums can feel a bit crowded, BUT the large usually feels a tad big and has me trying to shrink saddle and stem, and raise the bars. I am a tweener. (same with M-L helmet size)

Should I consider RH-2 or 3? If RH-2, what CS length do you guys recommend for climbing prowess without losing too much maneuvering?
 
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I will ask a question here. 190lbs, 5-10 with 32" inseam. Aggressive older guy. I ride all tech, up and down, never flow trails unless I am at a park. This would be my first ebike, and the part that is most exciting to me is the steeper climbs and obstacles I would be able to CLIMB.

I find myself on size Large bikes (XC and Trail frames) with 470-480 reach numbers because mediums seem can feel a bit crowded, BUT the large usually feels too big and has me trying to shrink saddle and stem, and raise the bars. I am a tweener.

Should I consider RH-2 or 3? If RH-2, what CS length do you guys suggest for climbing prowess?
I am 6'/185lbs with 32" inseam, running a 40mm stem/155mm crankset and the RH3 fits like a glove.
 
I will ask a question here. 190lbs, 5-10 with 32" inseam. Aggressive older guy. I ride all tech, up and down, never flow trails unless I am at a park. This would be my first ebike, and the part that is most exciting to me is the steeper climbs and obstacles I would be able to CLIMB.

I find myself on size Large bikes (XC and Trail frames) with 470-480 reach numbers because mediums seem can feel a bit crowded, BUT the large usually feels too big and has me trying to shrink saddle and stem, and raise the bars. I am a tweener.

Should I consider RH-2 or 3? If RH-2, what CS length do you guys suggest for climbing prowess?
I don’t think you’ll ever get a clear answer, so much is down the preference. I’m 5’10 ~165lb and ride a large 95% of the time. But I don’t find that they feel too big. I bought a rh3, have run 50mm and 40mm stems, either is fine, 445 cs mx setup. The space between my saddle and bars feels shorter than a lg bullit i was previously on but the wheelbase feels longer (and is).

Ultimately if you want stability go rh3, if you want flick-ability go rh2. With both you can size it bigger or smaller with reach adjust and cs length. Based on your description I’d probably go rh2, +5 reach adjust, 45-50mm stem and 450 chainstay.
 
I'm with 👆 and that last part.

I'm 5-10 on an RH2, 450mm CS 29er. Compared to my previous bike when seated reach with a 50mm stem feels a little tight, I had originally wanted to use a reach adjust. But once standing because of the longer wheelbase and wheels I sink right in and feel balanced. For me as a do it all bike the size is spot on. If it was a DH/park bike strictly looking for stability I'd have gone large.
 
Got a question for anyone running the works +/-5 headset, looks like it adds a bit of stack height underneath ~14mm. Have you adjusted anything ie fork travel in regard to how it affects the head angle? I’m not interested in making the bike slacker as a result.
 
Got a question for anyone running the works +/-5 headset, looks like it adds a bit of stack height underneath ~14mm. Have you adjusted anything ie fork travel in regard to how it affects the head angle? I’m not interested in making the bike slacker as a result.
The rule of thumb I'm aware of is .5 degrees for every 10mm added to under the headtube. I've run an extended lower cup on a previous bike, +15 and honestly made no noticeable difference. -10mm in fork travel to make up for the +14mm I think would be more noticable.
 
Got a question for anyone running the works +/-5 headset, looks like it adds a bit of stack height underneath ~14mm. Have you adjusted anything ie fork travel in regard to how it affects the head angle? I’m not interested in making the bike slacker as a result.
You can also consider going with a slightly longer stem and adjusting spacers, say 42mm vs the 35mm OneUp. This will give a bit of reach and a dash of stack height without changing up the travel or head angle. Fine tune with spacers.

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Avinox does not integrate with Shimano, only SRAM. If "slow" refers to shifting speed I'd say you haven't seen any Type shift since the firmware update from a month or two ago. I think even multiple single shifts are too fast for the torque on an emtb.
Thank you, that answers that. By slow I mean how long it takes to run the cassette. DI2 will run the cassette in less than half the time of what AXS does. As I understand it, T is slower. I am green to ebiking, but do realize that this is probably more important for non-ebike technical riding. On my pedal bikes, AXS drove me crazy. I am not an XC rider. I went to AXS from a 2x9 rapid rise. On that drivetrain I could drop half my gear range in half a second. To many this may sound meaningless, but in the desert with a lot of deep washes to climb out of, it is a big time difference, and less stalling frustration.
 
To clarify, it appears that the original AXS shift speed has not been improved by the firmware updates, Just the T has. Transmission does not appeal to me since it still cannot get close to shift speed of Shimano. I have really enjoyed what Shimano has done here, but have concerns.

I assume that powering the DI2 RD from the bike is not a challenge? Would be nice to only have one battery to charge.

Again, ebike newb. Under 80N of torque, and no automatic unloading, I cant just unload the pedals (correct me if I am wrong) and dump 4 (shimano) gears. I am pretty sure a chain will not survive unless I solve this problem. How do you guys with mech derailleurs handle this? Disable overun? Be kind.
 
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