Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

Wah said:
Nice! I'm coming from a Strive on also. Did the 181 feel lighter at all on the trails?
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Hard to tell at this stage as I haven't gotten the suspension dialed and I feel like the crestline is meant to ride a bit more off that back of the bike which I'm not used to. it is definitely more flickable, the rear is really easy to break loose. I have noticed it pops more which is nice. I had my Strive On pretty dialed and had a 625w battery with custom mounts /no cable routing guides to get the weight right down and I had custom tuned suspension which made a huge difference. For now I am just on a stock setup and haven't got it feeling fully comfortable as the front is diving a bit etc. Saying that today I thought it would be pretty close in times and I was about 20 seconds off my best time which was a surprise. I am hoping that will change once things are dialed. The main difference though is how quiet it is. That part is really nice. Motor is quiet on the way up and is quiet on the way down.
 
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Onetime said:
Spare collets and washers for the rear linkage, not sure about the small screw.
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Mike54 said:
Hi ,thanks for that,small screw must be spare for something i guess😁
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Looks like the same style as the dropouts. Maybe an extra for the brake adapter? Whatever it is, its not meant to be removed often as it has green thread lock on it.
 
Suns_PSD said:
Really all the high end e-bikes with 600 wh batteries come in between 48 - 50 lb depending on build (DH tires mainly) ready to ride.
And the ones with 800 watt batteries all come in about 50- 52 lbs.
If you've got a high pivot you can add about 1 lb for that.
If you have a cheap build you can add another 1-2 lb to any of these.
If you do a trail build with 36mm fork, trail wheels, small rotors, Float X, shorter dropper, etc. you can knock off about 2-3 #s. Aka Amflow.
Once you add the needed bashguard to the Avinox, it weighs the same as the Bosch.
Really the weights are not as dependent on the bike manufacturers as you would think. The CF frames are all within about 1# of each other.
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Yeah, full power bike weights are not going to come down substantially (for me that's at least 5+ lbs) for a few years at least. Even then what can you cut off a motor, 1 lb (that's 20% of current weight) and battery tech is out of the industries hands really. Even then maybe 2 lbs (20% of today's weight) is asking a lot.
 
FrogSkunk said:
I thought I read/heard somewhere that the power of boost mode is dependent upon which mode you are currently riding in?View attachment 182688
Chat seems to agree
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That’s interesting, i did not know that. I tend to ride in a detuned auto or eco, and when i activate boost I like having full power. I’d love to hop on a m2/s and compare the difference.

I was at sea otter but always go with my little kid, 6 now, and can’t leave them for demos.
 
Has anyone taken off their Rockshox shock (coil or air) or Fox coil shock yet?

I got an EXT shock for the Plaid and while the hardware is the right size, I immediately saw the Fox air shock had bearings in its lower mount. It also has a couple of spacers that go between the bearings and linkage. The EXT hardware has no bearings and is the same width as the fox hardware with spacers. With as much movement as that linkage has, it seems like bearings would be ideal for the lower mount. I'm just wondering if I should remove the fox hardware and fit it to the EXT, assuming the lower eye of the shocks are the same diameter. They are the same width.

I shot an email over to Troydon on Monday, but no response yet.
 
DieselLTK said:
Long time rider, first time poster. My daily driver is a Gen 3 Levo and I also built up a Kenevo SL with a Fox 40 as an EDH rig. Retired the Kenevo SL and moved the 40 to my Crestline. A couple shakedown rides last weekend, hoping to get out of work for some weekday laps. Almost done, just waiting on a new I9 wheelset.
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This thing looks beefy with that 40 on there! If you or anyone still needs to route the axs cable (noted in your pics), I will share how I did it.

FIrst use the plastic guide to fish a strong string with extra length to work with for some real fishing. Then tie the string around the connector to hold it while you pull it through. Then I wrapped some plumbers tape to hold the string inline with the connector and create a coned shape. Lastly covered it with shipping tape to keep it together and smooth. Use a little tape as feasible to keep it slim of course. Here is the setup, worked first time no issues.

20260417_185208.webp


Pulled it right through, easy peasy!

20260417_185506.webp
 
E-NUB said:
This thing looks beefy with that 40 on there! If you or anyone still needs to route the axs cable (noted in your pics), I will share how I did it.

FIrst use the plastic guide to fish a strong string with extra length to work with for some real fishing. Then tie the string around the connector to hold it while you pull it through. Then I wrapped some plumbers tape to hold the string inline with the connector and create a coned shape. Lastly covered it with shipping tape to keep it together and smooth. Use a little tape as feasible to keep it slim of course. Here is the setup, worked first time no issues.

View attachment 182753

Pulled it right through, easy peasy!

View attachment 182755
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Did you have some washers and small collars in a bag in the charger box of accessories?
 
In case anyone missed the critical build note from Troydon to avoid FRAME DAMAGE -

Troydon said to ensure the all frame rear shock mounts get some blue thread lock going as a crucial step of the build.

If this bolt comes loose the rear of the frame could get damaged, give it some blue locker TODAY:

loctite.webp
 
Mr Tonka said:
Has anyone taken off their Rockshox shock (coil or air) or Fox coil shock yet?

I got an EXT shock for the Plaid and while the hardware is the right size, I immediately saw the Fox air shock had bearings in its lower mount. It also has a couple of spacers that go between the bearings and linkage. The EXT hardware has no bearings and is the same width as the fox hardware with spacers. With as much movement as that linkage has, it seems like bearings would be ideal for the lower mount. I'm just wondering if I should remove the fox hardware and fit it to the EXT, assuming the lower eye of the shocks are the same diameter. They are the same width.

I shot an email over to Troydon on Monday, but no response yet.
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Yes you should.

If the EXT has a bushing preinstalled you'll have to press that out.
 
I'll say that I went to remove a FOX roller bearing recently and it was not coming out and I had to destroy it to remove it.

I'd be tempted to leave it, and just order a new bearing set up for the EXT.
 
Mr Tonka said:
Has anyone taken off their Rockshox shock (coil or air) or Fox coil shock yet?

I got an EXT shock for the Plaid and while the hardware is the right size, I immediately saw the Fox air shock had bearings in its lower mount. It also has a couple of spacers that go between the bearings and linkage. The EXT hardware has no bearings and is the same width as the fox hardware with spacers. With as much movement as that linkage has, it seems like bearings would be ideal for the lower mount. I'm just wondering if I should remove the fox hardware and fit it to the EXT, assuming the lower eye of the shocks are the same diameter. They are the same width.

I shot an email over to Troydon on Monday, but no response yet.
Click to expand...

Use the fox bearing hardware if it will work with the EXT eyelet. Make sure to grease and fully seat the bearing cups or it will creak.
 
E-NUB said:
In case anyone missed the critical build note from Troydon to avoid FRAME DAMAGE -

Troydon said to ensure the all frame rear shock mounts get some blue thread lock going as a crucial step of the build.

If this bolt comes loose the rear of the frame could get damaged, give it some blue locker TODAY:

loctite.webp
Click to expand...
Can confirm, that bolt comes out VERY easily.
 
FedEx screwed my shipment up even more and now my bike went back to crestline 😂

But just want to clarify, pretty much all the linkage bolts need to come out? None are pre-locktited but need to be, and I think I saw someone say there was no grease on them either (maybe just him). I’m pretty lazy and would have never taken them out unless they creaked so good to know.
 
Scford said:
That’s interesting, i did not know that. I tend to ride in a detuned auto or eco, and when i activate boost I like having full power. I’d love to hop on a m2/s and compare the difference.

I was at sea otter but always go with my little kid, 6 now, and can’t leave them for demos.
Click to expand...
I just watched these videos on Avinox-ebike site. Very helpful. Apparently there is a “boost local enhancement” option that needs to be toggled on, or boost mode wont work. I have to watch it again because it sounded contradictory.

Check it out. Its in the first video.

 
Suns_PSD said:
I'll say that I went to remove a FOX roller bearing recently and it was not coming out and I had to destroy it to remove it.

I'd be tempted to leave it, and just order a new bearing set up for the EXT.
Click to expand...
Yeah, for $37, new bearing hardware is an easy choice.
 
E-NUB said:
This thing looks beefy with that 40 on there! If you or anyone still needs to route the axs cable (noted in your pics), I will share how I did it.

FIrst use the plastic guide to fish a strong string with extra length to work with for some real fishing. Then tie the string around the connector to hold it while you pull it through. Then I wrapped some plumbers tape to hold the string inline with the connector and create a coned shape. Lastly covered it with shipping tape to keep it together and smooth. Use a little tape as feasible to keep it slim of course. Here is the setup, worked first time no issues.



Pulled it right through, easy peas
Click to expand...
My hole near the motor was small, almost the same size as the connector head so it was quite a pain in the butt.

I of course tried it with the plastic guide which broke, then i had to go back and fish through some shifter cable which fortunately i was able to grab out of the chainstay with needle nose pliers, then did the same tape job you did and had to use a tine screwdriver to align the head of the connector so it was exactly aligned with the little hole and was able to muscle it through.

It took me almost two hours since there was some repeating of the process when the first time i taped it to the shifter cable the tape pulled off and i had to do it again...

Long story short, do not use the plastic guide to pull, either use strong string or a shifter cable, and check the size of the hole near the motor so at least you can see what you have to pull the connector through!
 
QTT said:
Hey, I'm having the same issue with my new M2S Crestline. Once I activate Boost, feels like it falls flat on it's face. I've been researching and it sounds like only bikes equipped with the PF700 watt hour battery gets the full 1500 watts.
Have you been able to fix your lack of boost problem?
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I haven't had a chance to test it spinning high rpm as John described.
 
QTT said:
That's not correct. With Boost Local Enhancement turned on, you get a more powerful mode that your in, not the straight shot to the 1,500 watts. Like if your in Eco and hit Boost, you get Eco+. With this turned off, and you hit boost, then that takes you straight to the 1,500 watts. Then when the timer is done, you go back to the mode you were in.

I don't think you'll ever get to 90RPM when your in the fall flat on your face boost mode. Feels like your in ECO, now try getting 90 RPM out of that, maybe on a steep downhill.
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Im new to avinox ,finding this confusing,im going to be running 800wh battery,so is the 1300watts mentioned in boost or constant🤷
 
QTT said:
That's not correct. With Boost Local Enhancement turned on, you get a more powerful mode that your in, not the straight shot to the 1,500 watts. Like if your in Eco and hit Boost, you get Eco+. With this turned off, and you hit boost, then that takes you straight to the 1,500 watts. Then when the timer is done, you go back to the mode you were in.

I don't think you'll ever get to 90RPM when your in the fall flat on your face boost mode. Feels like your in ECO, now try getting 90 RPM out of that, maybe on a steep downhill.
Click to expand...

Not the way I was testing it no. I've only ridden one other Avinox bike and when I hit the button it felt like turbo+ mode for the 30 seconds, and I don't recall having to spin my legs off to feel the extra boost either. As it is now as soon as you activate boost the power is gone regardless of what mode you were in. The power comes right back when canceling it.
 
If I run AXS derailleur and wired dropper, can I have dropper cabel and brake line both go through the downtube? size RH-2
 
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