Clicking noise
- Thread starter GrahamA
- Start date
You need to remove the chain to isolate the drivetrain first. If the noise is then not there the source is not the motor.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks appreciate the reply, the only trouble is the noise only sounds when i put pressure on the pedals
This ^^^
And this ^^^
Both of those will cause a strange clicking noise …but the motor mount bracket screws/bolts is more critical. A loose spider/castle nut could cause the noise also. Peddle, crank, suspension …a friend playing a sick joke on you …
Chasing the click or creak is always fun.
Everyone here will recount their own experience of creaks and clicking noises and how painful and frustrating it was to find the cause. There are so many possibilities!
If it only happens when pressing on the pedals then the obvious suspects are the motor bolts, cranks, pedals, chainring, chain, cassette, rear hub etc. and you should check these first. But it could also potentially be any one of the pivot bearings on your suspension which can move very slightly when you tension the system by pressing on the pedals. If you're sitting down when pressing on the pedals it could even be coming from your seat post or saddle.
I'm not saying all this to bring you right down (a Neil Young reference!) but so that you realise nobody else can tell you where your noise is coming from and it requires the systematic and meticulous elimination of potential candidates by careful experimentation on your part.
We've all been there and suffered, so we wish you well! Good luck!
PS Note that the Gen 4 Bosch motor has (visible) mounting bolts on the frame, but also another set of (less visible) mounting bolts on the internal aluminium plates which bolt on to the motor.
Do you have both of your original knees?
My FIL had this issue, it was his robot knee….
Funny but true.
jockey wheel debris?
Mis-alignment front to back of chain ring/ rear cog?
Try new chain?
Check chain master link for proper install.
Get someone to pedal rear wheel up, while you listen closely, without getting your eyebrows stuck in the chain. Is the sound stationary? Does it move? Does it happen at the same degree(when pedal hits 11 •click•)Is the sound speed sensitive? Does the click speed up with cadence?
Remove and carefully reinstall rear wheel. Checking alignments
My FIL had this issue, it was his robot knee….
Funny but true.
jockey wheel debris?
Mis-alignment front to back of chain ring/ rear cog?
Try new chain?
Check chain master link for proper install.
Get someone to pedal rear wheel up, while you listen closely, without getting your eyebrows stuck in the chain. Is the sound stationary? Does it move? Does it happen at the same degree(when pedal hits 11 •click•)Is the sound speed sensitive? Does the click speed up with cadence?
Remove and carefully reinstall rear wheel. Checking alignments
- Thread starter
- #9
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for yr reply. No knee problems as yetJockey wheel seems clean enough. Could be something to do with alignment as did have a fall about 6 months ago but has only started the clicking noise about 1 month ago. Sound seems to be stationary and happens at same degree maybe 15hrs. Also clicking increases when cadence increase. Only happens when pressure applied to pedals
Purple parznip
Active member
Dirt! Clean it.
Yes, those motor bracket screws/bolts (8) can cause serious damage to your motor casing (magnesium) or your frame, where the (6) motor mount bolts enter the frame (if that makes sense)if they become loose.
It may start off as a simple clicking sound only when torque is applied to your crank and peddles. But it only gets worse as you peddle more.
A broken or sheared off screw/bolt is almost impossible to repair or remove when it’s deep in the magnesium motor casing.
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Try the suspension bolts attached to the shock, a bit of grease will usually help. They were over tightened from factory and creak and click occasionally.
Hi there, I had the same problem with my Bosch Gen 4. Turns out it was the mounting plates on the motor. You need to drop the motor, loosen the bolts (8) one by one but not all the way, put a drop of Loctite blue on and then torque to 2Nm.
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I had similar on my gen 5, it presented like the crank area but was in fact the rear wheel axle starting to loosen.
Niccumec
New Member
This was the source of my clicking…
Post in thread 'What did you do to your EBike this week?'
https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ebike-this-week.38309/post-611626
Post in thread 'What did you do to your EBike this week?'
https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ebike-this-week.38309/post-611626
Err ... 30Nm on those bolts!
Have you ruled out spokes? They can click and sound like the noise is elsewhere. I would check spokes tension to rule them out.
My brand new Moterra SL 2 has spoke noise, which I hope will clear up with a retensioning.
I replaced the GEN 4 motor mounting plates, due to a horrible creak!
I found the problem which was the holes drilled in the mounting plates were bigger than the mounting bolts, allowing for play.
I wasn’t sure if this was a generational change in the design or built-in to allow for variations in frame mounting tolerances.
Regardless, I ended up replacing and torque the plates and bolts, but haven’t put many miles on the bike since I ended up getting a new one and this bike is my spare. But in the two rides, I have on the new plates and bolts. The noise was gone.
I have hunch. Do you run the Industry 9 Hydra 2 hubs. I had some clicking while pedaling and finally identified the problem. I was pulling my hub apart to check the axle bearings. When I removed the free hub body, I found a retainging ring rattling around in the axle hub. This ring is used to retain the pawls in the free hub body. I had never seen this type of set up before. There are six small tabs used to hold the retaining ring in place against the pawl pivot area. I reattached the retaining ring and no more clicking noise.
Touchstone64
Member
This might sound daft but could this (motor mount bolt re-seat) be necessary more than once in, say, a six-month period of light bike use? I know I did it last August, resolving the clicking, but after getting the bike out after winter I could swear the same clicking is back! Thanks for any adviceEveryone here will recount their own experience of creaks and clicking noises and how painful and frustrating it was to find the cause. There are so many possibilities!
If it only happens when pressing on the pedals then the obvious suspects are the motor bolts, cranks, pedals, chainring, chain, cassette, rear hub etc. and you should check these first. But it could also potentially be any one of the pivot bearings on your suspension which can move very slightly when you tension the system by pressing on the pedals. If you're sitting down when pressing on the pedals it could even be coming from your seat post or saddle.
I'm not saying all this to bring you right down (a Neil Young reference!) but so that you realise nobody else can tell you where your noise is coming from and it requires the systematic and meticulous elimination of potential candidates by careful experimentation on your part.
We've all been there and suffered, so we wish you well! Good luck!
PS Note that the Gen 4 Bosch motor has (visible) mounting bolts on the frame, but also another set of (less visible) mounting bolts on the internal aluminium plates which bolt on to the motor.
Touchstone64
Member
Aha - I think I re-seated the frame bolts but not the mounting plate bolts. I think the attached PDFs from Bosch describe the two jobs (one for dropping and remounting the motor, and one for fastening the retaining plates) — can anyone with a Performance CX Gen 4 motor (mine's mounted in a Cube Stereo Hybrid 140 Race) confirm? Thanks!!This might sound daft but could this (motor mount bolt re-seat) be necessary more than once in, say, a six-month period of light bike use? I know I did it last August, resolving the clicking, but after getting the bike out after winter I could swear the same clicking is back! Thanks for any advice
Yeah, you need to drop the motor to check those bracket screws …no other way. I can’t remember the torque value for those bracket bolts but a little bit of blue loctight helps.
I’ve seen those mounting holes become oval from excessive movement. Time for new brackets.
there must be a jig that the manufacturer uses to line up those brackets. I’ve only had 1 issue, or problem, with main motor bolts (6) not lining up properly. New brackets is probably a good idea.Touchstone64
Member
I think the Bosch doc I attached says 8Nm…Yeah, you need to drop the motor to check those bracket screws …no other way. I can’t remember the torque value for those bracket bolts but a little bit of blue loctight helps.
I’ve seen those mounting holes become oval from excessive movement. Time for new brackets.
Gilbo
Member
Hi
Mine had a small stone lodged between chainring and motor. Making a clicking nose. But as people have already said motor mounts to motor and motor mounts to frame. Remember it’s a carbon frame so don’t go mental righting them.
Mine had a small stone lodged between chainring and motor. Making a clicking nose. But as people have already said motor mounts to motor and motor mounts to frame. Remember it’s a carbon frame so don’t go mental righting them.
I had a question about your rear hub previously, but no response. Do you run a Industry 9, Hydra 2? I had a problem with mine and it was making the clicking noise also when pedaling. If you are not running this rear hub, please disregard.
Try pedalling the bike whist in a bike stand. If necessary cover the rear brake slightly so that more pressure on the cranks is needed.
When you pedal whilst on the bike you also cause movement in the suspension and apply pressure to the seat post and bars. You would eliminate those as potential causes of the click by rotating the cranks without being sat on the bike.
It sounds to me that the click coincides with the the power part of the crank rotation 2oclock through 5 o'clock. That is when the shock gets compressed. I have to say the bike looks very dusty..including the shock shaft below the o ring. Try removing and cleaning the shock mounting bolts and shaft
When you pedal whilst on the bike you also cause movement in the suspension and apply pressure to the seat post and bars. You would eliminate those as potential causes of the click by rotating the cranks without being sat on the bike.
It sounds to me that the click coincides with the the power part of the crank rotation 2oclock through 5 o'clock. That is when the shock gets compressed. I have to say the bike looks very dusty..including the shock shaft below the o ring. Try removing and cleaning the shock mounting bolts and shaft
Just spitballing here but I had one bike with a ticking or clicking noise once during torque.
After an extensive search for the mystery noise I found that the rear rotor was rubbing against the calliper body. The rear wheel will flex slightly and that could be enough to cause a slight rub on the calliper body.
Solution; a fine adjustment and alignment of the calliper post position. A slightly warped rotor could cause a similar noise.
Check your spoke tension also.
After an extensive search for the mystery noise I found that the rear rotor was rubbing against the calliper body. The rear wheel will flex slightly and that could be enough to cause a slight rub on the calliper body.
Solution; a fine adjustment and alignment of the calliper post position. A slightly warped rotor could cause a similar noise.
Check your spoke tension also.
