Cassette life

BassNut

Member
Aug 9, 2021
10
4
Norfolk
I think it’s really interesting what everyone uses and what works for different people. I think the GT 85 works for me because it’s really quite sandy here and with a thicker oil it clings on to the chain and wears the components quicker. A thin oil/lube doesn’t attract much and therefore doesn’t act like a valve grinding paste.
 

Ande 60

Member
Mar 14, 2022
9
5
Uk
I think it’s really interesting what everyone uses and what works for different people. I think the GT 85 works for me because it’s really quite sandy here and with a thicker oil it clings on to the chain and wears the components quicker. A thin oil/lube doesn’t attract much and therefore doesn’t act like a valve grinding paste.
]
12 speed shimano chain on lightweight Orbea m20 ,75kg rider. 5 x 20 mile rides 2000ft climbing, chain wear 0.5%.Not a happy bunny.
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,690
the internet
12 speed shimano chain on lightweight Orbea m20 ,75kg rider. 5 x 20 mile rides 2000ft climbing, chain wear 0.5%.Not a happy bunny.
Some chains can measure almost 0.5% new depending on chain design and measuring tool used.

Just to cheer you up even more I've done over 5000 miles now on my current chain and it's still going strong with no slipping under load in any gears yet. Chain wear is off the scale of any measuring tool. (around 1.5%)
 
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lightning

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2021
715
409
UK
lt is an option just to leave it, and then replace everything after a few thousand miles or however long it all lasts.

When l was a kid we NEVER replaced chains or cassettes and they got oiled occasionally if they were lucky....many kids rode around with a rusty brown chain squeaking away
 

Landy Andy

Active member
Feb 8, 2021
191
190
Herts
Having just got a new chain I’m going to try not over oiling it, which then leads to overly cleaning it. I think me putting heavy oils on it make the dirt stick then I use a chain cleaner with harsh chemicals, that remove the oils deep within the chain.
 

Barbara_Reed

Active member
Oct 18, 2020
147
197
FR
I find the trick is to use any old oil after giving the chain a good wipe with something soft like an old t shirt. Not too much, just enough that it gets your hands dirty if you handle it. Lent my hybrid bike to a 'friend' staying in our guest house who thinks tyre pressures can be felt with his thumb, and sees a completely dry chain as normal. So he managed to jump the chain off the chain ring 6km from home and expected me to rescue him. He had a little time to think about this as he walked back pushing my bike. Of course, if he hadn't left the tool kit I supplied behind (too heavy, apparently) he would have been able to remove the cover and replace the chain. Not that he could do it on his return, despite being in my workshop, so maybe not. Took me five minutes, including some lube and an explanation through gritted teeth. Just waiting for him to get a puncture and ask me for rescue. Because I see the spare tube and tyre levers and pump are still on the workbench.
I won't mention that he is living rent free and expects me to supply his toilet paper and washing machine soap. Because that would make me sound even more petty.
 

Philly G

Well-known member
Subscriber
Jun 29, 2020
692
517
New Zealand
When l was a kid we NEVER replaced chains or cassettes and they got oiled occasionally if they were lucky....many kids rode around with a rusty brown chain squeaking away
I cringe now to think of how little I maintained or cared about the Healing 10 speed I rode to school on. My Rail gets absolutely pampered by comparison 😄
 

Ande 60

Member
Mar 14, 2022
9
5
Uk
Just back from bs where I bought my Orbea after free inspection. On arrival discussed excessive chain wear with mechanic who after a quick inspection said he would replace with new. Owner then appeared and measured chain wear between 0.5 and 0.75 and told me there was plenty of life left in the chain but to keep checking it. Gave me a wet lube in winter/ dry lube in summer tutorial, type of riding , conditions etc all affect chain wear then chain ring wear and finally cassette wear. Disappointing outcome. Might get a second opinion from lbs. Still seems to me to be excessive wear after only 120 miles. I intend to do the c2c this year and at this rate will need to factor in a chain change before and after ride.😢😢😢
 

urastus

⚡The Whippet⚡
May 4, 2020
1,548
994
Tasmania
I've now got over 3000km on my original cluster and chain. I keep an eye on the chain using a park tool .75 gauge - it's still not close. I'm about 90kg with a day pack and if I'm not riding up steep stuff it's because I've reached the top and going down; their isn't much flat stuff here. I think the chain wore more in the first 500kms than it has done in the last 2,600km. After the first 500 I switched to wax - I now have so much more time because chain maintenance was a big time consumer when I used other lubes - cleaning and lubing every 30km or so. Now it's every 100km and that's with a fair bit of life left in the lubing quality of the wax.

90% of the time I'm in modified low power version of eco though - I use lower gears and my legs when climbing. The chain is a 7100. Also, I rarely ride in the wet because I don't have to 😂; wax washes out in a ride if it's wet.

This is my current stomping ground - it's dog friendly and 10mins ride away:

 
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Ande 60

Member
Mar 14, 2022
9
5
Uk
A bit of advice at the point of purchase would be good. Having bought the expensive bike my lbs gives fair warning to their customers to expect excessive drive train wear. They will recommend a chain to be replaced potentially after 200 miles and to cycle three chains.If the customer is new to emtb then a quick chat on how to get the best out of the bike, maintenance tips and riding techniques. Takes a few minutes of their time but they insist it is worthwhile as it stops the disappointed customer coming back. Refreshing to know.
 

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,143
4,674
Weymouth
On my whyte E180 RS I changed the chain at 500 miles when it had reached 0.5%. That chain becomes my spare in my waistbag together with a powerlink.
Cassette is SRAMXG 1275 and chain is SRAM GX. No visible wear on the cassette although the new chain skipped on 5th gear for a couple of rides before settling down. No idea what caused that but the cogs are incredibly close together on the 1275. Since then the bike has done another 150 miles and gearchange etc is sweet.
My maintenance routine is to use a stiff brush to clean the cassette, jockey wheels and chain after each ride and then apply a small amount of dry lube. Because I lube after every ride it does not matter if dry lube get washed out on a wet ride. It has the benefit of drying on the chain etc so does not pick up grit and grime from the trail. If the chain gets a lot of mud/sand etc I use a degreaser applied with 2 toothbrushes to clean it out and then re lube with wet lube first, then wiped clean until no more oil get transferred to the cassette and chainwheel., then dry lube and leave to dry.
 

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