Levo Gen 3 Best coil shock - Poll

[irie]

The tftuned calculator gave me a spring rate of 328 (yes I’m light) using the 28% sag setting. I did 350 since that’s as low as I saw from MRP. It works fine for me.

I’m currently running maybe 25% or a tiny bit less. I might increase the sag but it still feels fine as is

I have Ohlins TTx22m.2 which is dead easy to change the sag on the trail. Got it feeling nice then measured the sag when I got home. Also about 25% but not going to change it. Works great with Rockshox Zeb A2 forks.

 

[Henrik]

I would go for a 550 spring. I weight 84 KG with gear and have 26-27% sag. The RS Coil needs a softer spring then other coil shocks. With the 450 spring I had 30% Sag.

 

[Henrik]

Try 500 and 550. 600 will be to stiff 100%

 

[RiderOnTheStorm]

I recently fitted a RS coil shock on my bike. I found that the MRP spring rate calculator gave me the best results. Better (more precise) than Tftuned in my opinion. My desired sag (25%) was spot on.

Mountain Bike Spring Rate Calculator

When choosing a spring rate for your desired sag, getting the correct L/M/H factory tune for the shock is also essential. @Dave_B Have you determined what is the appropriate Compression and Rebound tune needed for your bike?

 

[Dave_B]

I would go for a 550 spring. I weight 84 KG with gear and have 26-27% sag. The RS Coil needs a softer spring then other coil shocks. With the 450 spring I had 30% Sag.

View attachment 117372

What’s that thing on your shock and where did you get it?

 

[Dave_B]

Have you determined what is the appropriate Compression and Rebound tune needed for your bike?

I will let tftuned sort that out for me. They sell the shock specifically for the Levo.

 

[Tooks]

What’s that thing on your shock and where did you get it?

Looks like one of these?

Measures sag and the travel you’re using.

Travel and Sag Indicator | Reverse Components

The sag indicator is simple tool to measure the amount of travel you are using on your coil shock, and to get the ideal sag measurement.An external shaft is held in place at the top and bottom of your shock, with an "o" ring to show how much travel you are using.The Travel and Sag Indicator can...

reverse-components.com

 

[Paulquattro]

I have Ohlins TTx22m.2 which is dead easy to change the sag on the trail.

Hi
Just a quick note
You cant change the sag on the trail as such unless you have adjustable sprindex spring or a bag full of different rate springs
I think your adjusting the preload which when wound up past the recommended 2-5 turns in most cases just ruins the small bump compliance which coils are best at it doesn't increase the sag as such only the amount it takes to start compression
Once you have preloaded the spring at around 2 turns of preload the sag then is controlled by the spring rate so if you want more sag get a less poundage spring and vise versa

I know many will jump on this and say preload does effect sag which it can but it shouldn't be used to set it up properly only the spring poundage should much like decreasing or increasing air in an air shock

This wasn't a dig by the way just a little info for you to digest or ignore

 

[RiderOnTheStorm]

I will let tftuned sort that out for me. They sell the shock specifically for the Levo.

Yep that's good idea. Although I'd suggest to ask them what shock factory tune they selected for your bike. Good info to know.

 

[Henrik]

Looks like one of these?

Measures sag and the travel you’re using.

Travel and Sag Indicator | Reverse Components

The sag indicator is simple tool to measure the amount of travel you are using on your coil shock, and to get the ideal sag measurement.An external shaft is held in place at the top and bottom of your shock, with an "o" ring to show how much travel you are using.The Travel and Sag Indicator can...

reverse-components.com

Looks like one of these?

Measures sag and the travel you’re using.

Travel and Sag Indicator | Reverse Components

The sag indicator is simple tool to measure the amount of travel you are using on your coil shock, and to get the ideal sag measurement.An external shaft is held in place at the top and bottom of your shock, with an "o" ring to show how much travel you are using.The Travel and Sag Indicator can...

reverse-components.com

Jep, thats the Reverse Tool. Its very nice for checking how much travel you use in a ride. Had many situations where my thoughts in how much travel I used was wrong in both ways.

 

[Alexbn921]

The best is a custom tuned Bomber CR.

Fox Van Rc and Bomber CR Speed sensitive Damper SSD mods

Avalanche Downhill Racing gives you a competitive advantage with its long travel shocks and forks. Virtually maintenance free suspension guaranteed.

www.avalanchedownhillracing.com

 

[irie]

Hi
Just a quick note
You cant change the sag on the trail as such unless you have adjustable sprindex spring or a bag full of different rate springs
I think your adjusting the preload which when wound up past the recommended 2-5 turns in most cases just ruins the small bump compliance which coils are best at it doesn't increase the sag as such only the amount it takes to start compression
Once you have preloaded the spring at around 2 turns of preload the sag then is controlled by the spring rate so if you want more sag get a less poundage spring and vise versa

I know many will jump on this and say preload does effect sag which it can but it shouldn't be used to set it up properly only the spring poundage should much like decreasing or increasing air in an air shock

This wasn't a dig by the way just a little info for you to digest or ignore

With the correct spring, as you say preload can be adjusted to change sag, thanks for confirming this. But up to 5 turns is too much (IMO).

 

[pontoon]

With the correct spring, as you say preload can be adjusted to change sag, thanks for confirming this. But up to 5 turns is too much (IMO).

I set mine to 3 turns and was at 20%, 2 turns between 20-25%, but that was 3 turns off the bike. I think I probably should have set the turns with the shock on the bike. So I’m probably running too much preload, and probably do have the right spring. I’m pretty happy with the TFTuned calculator

 

[RebornRider]

This will help your understanding of preload (and how it can go wrong):

Preload explainer (Tuesday Tune)

 

[pontoon]

This will help your understanding of preload (and how it can go wrong):

Preload explainer (Tuesday Tune)

I actually don’t think he has a very good take on preload/spring rate/sag.

It’s almost like he’s recommending to pick whatever spring lets you run almost no preload. First problem with this is he’s suggesting to run less than what the rockshox manual specifies. I wouldn’t really advise disregarding the manual on minimum preload. Especially since coils are already so much softer than air shocks to begin their travel, and because a little initial force helps resist the suspension from moving when pedaling when the shock isn’t locked out but the rider is still climbing.

Also he seems to minimize the importance of sag. Sag is by far one of the most crucial suspension adjustments available. It has a huge effect on traction and cornering. I prioritize sag first, while ensuring I don’t have excessive preload.

I’m also not convinced of his take that the rider can just compensate for bike imbalances by adjusting their riding position. I’d rather have a balanced bike with more than a half turn preload than need to ride way over the bars and deal with an under steering bike.

Like everything imo it’s about balance, but mostly about sag

That said, I wouldn’t hesitate to try multiple spring rates. I’ve tried 3 sprint rates on my dirt bikes so far. I ended up settling on the softest one, which btw doesn’t result in the least preload, but gives me what I want.

 

[InRustWeTrust]

No fox dhx2 ? , i have it and had no problem with it so far.

I really love the feel of it and how it sticks the bike to the ground.

 

[Dave_B]

Fox DHX2 is not recommended due to it breaking (several users have experienced this). I also think it voids the frame warranty?

The RS has a specific mode for the Levo and Kenevo with a steel shaft.

 

[Dave_B]

Ordered the RS SD (RS00.4118.359.048) which is the steel shaft version.
Also ordered a 550 and 525 spring.

Have requested they fit the spring they think is correct and to ship the other one so I have an option to experiment with.

 

[Ou812]

Ordered the RS SD (RS00.4118.359.048) which is the steel shaft version.
Also ordered a 550 and 525 spring.

Have requested they fit the spring they think is correct and to ship the other one so I have an option to experiment with.

Where did you find it in stock? I’ve been looking for one but it seems J-Tech is the only ones with it in stock but they only sell it with their piston upgrade.

 

[Dave_B]

Tftuned

 

[Dave_B]

Super Deluxe Ultimate Coil RC2T - Standard

Performance to match the most demanding riders out there. The ground up, all-new Super Deluxe Coil Ultimate is a work of art with no feature spared.

www.tftuned.com

Note they have a Levo specific option

 

[Ou812]

Super Deluxe Ultimate Coil RC2T - Standard

Performance to match the most demanding riders out there. The ground up, all-new Super Deluxe Coil Ultimate is a work of art with no feature spared.

www.tftuned.com

Note they have a Levo specific option

Oh…that’s the stock size shock, for some reason I was thinking you were looking for the 230x65. That’s what I need and can’t find one, I’m probably just going to order another EXT from Mojo. I wanted to try the RS but if I buy it from J-tech with their piston and 2 springs it’s damn near as much as the EXT.

 

[Dave_B]

230x65 for a Levo?

 

[Dave_B]

And for those interested, I chose the RS because…….

1. I’m a weekend warrior and probably can’t tell the different between RS and the others.

2. It has hydraulic bottom out (Ohlins does not)

3. EXT makes a squishy sound = would drive me nuts.

4. I have a Zeb so I’m matchy matchy front and rear

5. springs are cheap so not an expensive spring swap if needed

6. Overall price

 

[Ou812]

230x65 for a Levo?

Yep…for the cascade long shock kit. This whole time I’ve been looking at this thread I was thinking that’s what you were doing. I have the cascade kit in the box, just need to buy the shock.

 

[Alexbn921]

I actually don’t think he has a very good take on preload/spring rate/sag.

It’s almost like he’s recommending to pick whatever spring lets you run almost no preload. First problem with this is he’s suggesting to run less than what the rockshox manual specifies. I wouldn’t really advise disregarding the manual on minimum preload. Especially since coils are already so much softer than air shocks to begin their travel, and because a little initial force helps resist the suspension from moving when pedaling when the shock isn’t locked out but the rider is still climbing.

Also he seems to minimize the importance of sag. Sag is by far one of the most crucial suspension adjustments available. It has a huge effect on traction and cornering. I prioritize sag first, while ensuring I don’t have excessive preload.

I’m also not convinced of his take that the rider can just compensate for bike imbalances by adjusting their riding position. I’d rather have a balanced bike with more than a half turn preload than need to ride way over the bars and deal with an under steering bike.

Like everything imo it’s about balance, but mostly about sag

That said, I wouldn’t hesitate to try multiple spring rates. I’ve tried 3 sprint rates on my dirt bikes so far. I ended up settling on the softest one, which btw doesn’t result in the least preload, but gives me what I want.

You SHOULD run a spring that requires almost no preload. Preload only comes into play when the suspension fully extends or comes off the ground. Having any preload adds harshness as you have to overcome this force and it it transmitted directly to you. It also happens much more than you thing it does, for example braking bumps tend to skip the wheel and each hit is harsher. You only want just barley enough preload that the spring doesn't rattle and NO MORE.

Pre load has ZERO effect on pedaling performance. You always sit at the "same" spring rate regardless you the preload or spring you use. Your weight is the same and you simply settle into the leverage ratio x spring rate + preload = rider+bike.

Sag isn't that important. The range of sag's that work is quite big and one of the least important "settings". How you measure sag has a large range too.

Balance is key. Damping can compensate for spring rate and adjust the feel. Soft spring + lots of damping = firm spring and low damping on travel used.

Edit
As a side note, it's my belief that bottoming out is the #1 reason people are breaking shocks on the Levo/Kenevo bikes. The Kenevo's came way under sprung. The bearings are the main reason bikes are wearing out shocks. There is a significant difference in a quality NSK or NTN bearing vs the stock crap. Side loading the bike by leaning it over and stepping on the pedal has about half the deflection after swapping out the bearings. It also feels way tighter and smoother while riding.

 

[RebornRider]

I actually don’t think he has a very good take on preload/spring rate/sag.

Who should I believe? A guy who makes his living by tuning and making parts for MTB suspensions? Or a guy on a forum?

 

[pontoon]

Who should I believe? A guy who makes his living by tuning and making parts for MTB suspensions? Or a guy on a forum?

You should believe the guy who says sag is important

 

[pontoon]

Yep…for the cascade long shock kit. This whole time I’ve been looking at this thread I was thinking that’s what you were doing. I have the cascade kit in the box, just need to buy the shock.

+1 to the cascade link. It makes sense to me as it makes the linkage more progressive. The original linkage was designed for an air shock, which has more natural progression so needs less from the linkage.

 

[pontoon]

You SHOULD run a spring that requires almost no preload. Preload only comes into play when the suspension fully extends or comes off the ground. Having any preload adds harshness as you have to overcome this force and it it transmitted directly to you. It also happens much more than you thing it does, for example braking bumps tend to skip the wheel and each hit is harsher. You only want just barley enough preload that the spring doesn't rattle and NO MORE.

Pre load has ZERO effect on pedaling performance. You always sit at the "same" spring rate regardless you the preload or spring you use. Your weight is the same and you simply settle into the leverage ratio x spring rate + preload = rider+bike.

Sag isn't that important. The range of sag's that work is quite big and one of the least important "settings". How you measure sag has a large range too.

Balance is key. Damping can compensate for spring rate and adjust the feel. Soft spring + lots of damping = firm spring and low damping on travel used.

Edit
As a side note, it's my belief that bottoming out is the #1 reason people are breaking shocks on the Levo/Kenevo bikes. The Kenevo's came way under sprung. The bearings are the main reason bikes are wearing out shocks. There is a significant difference in a quality NSK or NTN bearing vs the stock crap. Side loading the bike by leaning it over and stepping on the pedal has about half the deflection after swapping out the bearings. It also feels way tighter and smoother while riding.

I’m not going to respond piece by piece to this but for anyone reading his replies, there are some factual errors in here, so I recommend fact checking before regurgitating this info.