Bafang M510 RS - discussion, tuning, firmwares

installed.

The throttle don't functioning (alike the M820)
the walk mode going forward at 5 KM/h, regardless of the position on the rear gear.
i need to build an bracket for the speed sensor and i could able to test it outside
Hello. Thats not a good news throttle is not working.

I have not tested yet M510RS and not sure if this FC3.0 firmware it will take (but has new boot code 0x72 so I hope it will be a bootcode for RS controllers). This one should be with a throttle support.

Do you have also new display and hill holding function? Otherwise I dont see much advantage from this sensor. And I doubt it will serve as some "traction control".
 

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And also FC4.0. Dont know what this is about and why FC4. Maybe to be compatible with some new torque sensor?
 

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I have tested the M510RS, As i haven't ride ebike since 5 months and the M510 since 1 year. So, my opinion is not very relevant.
But i can, said i finded it most powerfull than my latest used shimano EP801 and very most efficient than the M510. I haven't tested the boost, but i don't feel the necessity. Enough powered to climb 20% easly in sport+ mode. I find also very noisless. The only negative points found are on HMI:
The motor power and human power displayed are hard to read (unstable, same the M820).
The heart rate can't be read with GPS heart belt (ANT+), an bluetooth sensor sem needed.
And finally, the software don't have "stop shift" (necessary adjustable) alike other recent motors. But i as i can't test on very hard technical climbs, i can't said if it will be penalizing ? On climbs where itsn't necessary to replace cranks position, it's climb very most easly than others motors i have used at this time.
 
About the walk mode. when you activate the mode, the motor lock (you can't go rearward) and it going forward at 4.5 km/h when you maintain the switch.

About the "traction control", I think that it's managed. I explain: when you slide, you fell the motor lowered power assist and return progressivly (lower than "acelleration"), to the level setted. But that don't prevent long slides on mud, may be if you change also your legs torque ? but that need to change completely your reflex ?

About the "automatic mode", theorically the SPORT+ mode. I don't fell real differency with other modes ? more powerfull yes. But no more progressive than the other modes ?
 
Interesting with that "traction control". What is happening when your rear wheel slips? Do you feel it is modulating power? The question is if this wont be contraproductive. In a hard terrain I need to have a power on a wheel, to run over obstacle.

I was first confused, how they can detect wheel going backwards as new sensor can not detect oposite rotation. Just now I turned on the brain ;) , and can be detected from the rotor axle magnet inside motor.
 
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C’est intéressant avec ce « contrôle de traction ». Que se passe-t-il lorsque votre roue arrière glisse ? Pensez-vous qu’il module la puissance ? La question est de savoir si cela ne sera pas contreproductif. Sur un terrain difficile, il faut avoir une puissance sur une roue pour franchir un obstacle.

J’étais d’abord confus sur la façon dont ils peuvent détecter une roue qui recule alors que le nouveau capteur ne détecte pas la rotation opposée. Je viens d’activer le cerveau, et il peut être détecté par l’aimant rotor-axe à l’intérieur du moteur.;)

Oui, il y à clairement une modulation de puissance, très réactive quand il y à perte d’adhérence. Mais comme je disais, quand sa arrive dans de la boue, le réflexe c’est de pousser plus sur les jambes => donc sa peut patiner un moment avant de retrouver de l’adhérence.

Physiquement je peut pas m’attaquer à du technique, donc je peut pas décrire le comportement dans du raide technique. Mais dans du raide roulant avec juste des épingles qui demandent des relances, le fonctionnement est incomparable avec celui du M510, c’est beaucoup plus facile d’utiliser la puissance.
Pas besoin non plus de faire mouliner ni de forcer comme une bête. J’ai noté à un moment dans du 17 %: 70 en vitesse de jambes, 160 W en puissance humaine et 470 W en moteur et sa montais tranquille.

Pour le sens de rotation, je pense pas que le soft ai besoin de le connaitre. Le mode marche fonctionne en 2 temps. D’abord on l’active et le moteur se bloque (impossible de reculer) et ensuite le vélo avance quand on rappuie sur le bouton -, se bloque quand on relâche, repart si on rappuie. Il faut appuyer sur un autre bouton (le plus) pour sortir du mode marche.
 
Given the efficiency of the M510RS, i have difficult to understand why the M560 ? mostly for EU owners

more heavy
more noisy (lot of, for that i have heard in video)
more consumtion (i suppose ?)
too many power (boost mode on M510RS not needed to climb on 20%)
Not EU rules compatible
 
Given the efficiency of the M510RS, i have difficult to understand why the M560 ? mostly for EU owners

more heavy
more noisy (lot of, for that i have heard in video)
more consumtion (i suppose ?)
too many power (boost mode on M510RS not needed to climb on 20%)
Not EU rules compatible
I just try M560 500w latest version from Chili. Compare with M510 also latest version it has the same power efficiency but more power. And I found M560 smoother and more adapt to leg torque. Also the battery consumption almost the same with M510. I run CEF69 with 835Wh battery last monday with 75km and 800m EG, battery still left 60%.
But it is noiser than M510, maybe because of steel gear. But for me it's ok.
 
I've been looking for an EMTB recently, the shortlist are bikes such as Orbea Wild, Cube one77 etc (used - bosch gen 4 and 5) and also did quick street test ride on base model Amflow last week (That was pretty fast). However I'm now considering building a CEF69 / 835WH / M510RS combo, these bikes look great and offer huge value. Recently put decent trail hrs on a Bosch G4 (Focus Sam & Trek Rail) I'm after any real data on the M510RS and peoples experience how it compares to Bosch G4 / 5 on the trail. Is the RS a definite upgrade over the stck M510. I was pretty knocked out by DJI so would like to come somewhere near that. Don't really want to go to the M560 if possible. Thanks.
 
I've been looking for an EMTB recently, the shortlist are bikes such as Orbea Wild, Cube one77 etc (used - bosch gen 4 and 5) and also did quick street test ride on base model Amflow last week (That was pretty fast). However I'm now considering building a CEF69 / 835WH / M510RS combo, these bikes look great and offer huge value. Recently put decent trail hrs on a Bosch G4 (Focus Sam & Trek Rail) I'm after any real data on the M510RS and peoples experience how it compares to Bosch G4 / 5 on the trail. Is the RS a definite upgrade over the stck M510. I was pretty knocked out by DJI so would like to come somewhere near that. Don't really want to go to the M560 if possible. Thanks.
More powerful and above all effective than the M510 rev2, for sure. Also more noiseless. I cant compare with the bosch or avinox, never ride
 
More powerful and above all effective than the M510 rev2, for sure. Also more noiseless. I cant compare with the bosch or avinox, never ride
The Avinox kind of blew me away, just riding briefly through back streets, off gutters etc It's a beast power wise - but the bike is super agile and light. My goal is close to this power with more capable suspension.
 
Really I wonder why, maybe it’s a market decision
I have been ready to buy one as soon as I Dado had done a review.
I have made a few inquiries but both my sources have said they would get back to me haven’t
You may have been caught the period before people took of for Chinese NY break, Jean from SZZS said they start work again from this weekend.
And SZZS are advertising the M510RS & CEF69 frameset already, I'm waiting to see what feedback is like but sounds pretty enticing for from initial comments
 
I’m wanting to get a new motor for my E82 to cut down on the noise and I’m trying to decide whether to try an M510 RS or just get the new quieter M560. I don’t need the extra power of the 560, the M510 would be enough for me, but the new speed sensor was concerning me a bit, are frames supposed to have a new mounting location for that sensor? And the disc just mounts to your brake disc I take it?
 
I appreciate a lot the M510RS. But onething disturb me with the M510RS. It's still consume battery on downhill, where motor normally don't fuction. whe don't feel or ear motor functioning, but i suppose that it do when an mode is selected. I need to select mode 0 before down to avoid unexpected battery power loose (+- = to that consume in eco on flat ground). I have request to those use M560RS, avinox (same multipoint speed sensor), bafang (trough my motor dealer). Nothing answers. I don't know if it's an failure of my motor or if it's the normal functioning ?
 
I appreciate a lot the M510RS. But onething disturb me with the M510RS. It's still consume battery on downhill, where motor normally don't fuction. whe don't feel or ear motor functioning, but i suppose that it do when an mode is selected. I need to select mode 0 before down to avoid unexpected battery power loose (+- = to that consume in eco on flat ground). I have request to those use M560RS, avinox (same multipoint speed sensor), bafang (trough my motor dealer). Nothing answers. I don't know if it's an failure of my motor or if it's the normal functioning ?
Hello Patdam. How you mean is consuming battery on downhill? Why should be, when not assisting?
 
Je ne sais pas. C’est la raison pour laquelle j’essaie de comprendre, d’abord si quelqu’un a le même problème. Peut-être que le capteur de couple/position est plus sensible avec plus de points de mesure et au capteur de roue arrière multipoint. Générer une action motrice inattendue quand je suis debout sur des manivelles ? Le moteur et la puissance humaine affichés sur l’HMI sont toujours à 0, mais peut-être que le tempo est ? Beaucoup de « peut-être », mais c’est sûr que c’est cette baisse de niveau de batterie sans que l’aide du moteur soit demandée avec mon moteur si je laisse un mode d’assistance activé en descente. Celles-ci ne les ont jamais vues sur mes anciens moteurs. Ce n’est pas la batterie, si je sélectionne le mode 0, le niveau de batterie reste stable. C’est pareil si je n’utilise pas la moto plusieurs jours
 
And is % going down fast? Unbelievable, what Bafang did again. ;)

I wont be trying to get M510RS now. Even first official version wont be ok as I know Bafang. Did this mistake already many times. ;)
And in Product catalogue for 2026 RS motors did not show. :( Not sure what strategy they have.
 
And is % going down fast? Unbelievable, what Bafang did again. ;)

I wont be trying to get M510RS now. Even first official version wont be ok as I know Bafang. Did this mistake already many times. ;)
And in Product catalogue for 2026 RS motors did not show. :( Not sure what strategy they have.
For the moment i'm alone with the problem. I wait other return to know if it's an bug or not 🤔. But yes, bad signal when the supplier (bafang ?) doesn't provide answers.

The consumation isn't negligible, 2 at 3% on +- 300 m D-.
 
Hmmm, interesting, thinking loud...
One explanation is if they mess up with that "hill holding function". If function is in action controller sending non rotary phase current to stator. Sensing is done from the rotor magnet (detection if you going backwards). So if you downhilling, on the bumps, rotor can turn backwards by itself. Rotary sensor on PCB is sensing every degree of turn (it is like 10 or 12 bit resolution, dont remember now exactly). And it could start to send current to stator. You dont feel it even when pedalling as there is a one way bearing.

Do you have this function on a display? Can you try turn it off? I saw it on some Tosa video.

If this hypothesis is correct, then my skeptical expectations about ""hill holding" function was right. Anyway, a real biker does not need this function. ;)

Dont know what is the official name of this function. Who knows?
 
Hmmm, interesting, thinking loud...
One explanation is if they mess up with that "hill holding function". If function is in action controller sending non rotary phase current to stator. Sensing is done from the rotor magnet (detection if you going backwards). So if you downhilling, on the bumps, rotor can turn backwards by itself. Rotary sensor on PCB is sensing every degree of turn (it is like 10 or 12 bit resolution, dont remember now exactly). And it could start to send current to stator. You dont feel it even when pedalling as there is a one way bearing.

Do you have this function on a display? Can you try turn it off? I saw it on some Tosa video.

If this hypothesis is correct, then my skeptical expectations about ""hill holding" function was right. Anyway, a real biker does not need this function. ;)

Dont know what is the official name of this function. Who knows?
As i had explain, the function "hill holding" activate when you pass in mode walk, that fully lock the motor when walk mode activated.
The bike going forward when you activate "-" button and return to lock when you release, you need to activate "+" to leave walk mode and unlock the motor.
Unecessary with this function to detect the rotation direction.
 
Got it. So locked all the time when in PAS Walk.
Strange why percentage is going down with no assistance. :unsure:
 
I just try M560 500w latest version from Chili. Compare with M510 also latest version it has the same power efficiency but more power. And I found M560 smoother and more adapt to leg torque. Also the battery consumption almost the same with M510. I run CEF69 with 835Wh battery last monday with 75km and 800m EG, battery still left 60%.
But it is noiser than M510, maybe because of steel gear. But for me it's ok.
Hi,

I want to order same frameset as yours and build new bike.

If you think now, which motor would you recommend: 510RS or 560RS?


Thanks!


UPD:
Read some info, did weight calculation, and decided to go with 560RS. In case something is not OK, will switch to 510RS.
 
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Hi,

I want to order same frameset as yours and build new bike.

If you think now, which motor would you recommend: 510RS or 560RS?


Thanks!


UPD:
Read some info, did weight calculation, and decided to go with 560RS. In case something is not OK, will switch to 510RS.
560RS has been canceled, so that might make your decision a little easier. They did come out with a new hardware version of the regular 560 though which is now significantly quieter.
 
560RS has been canceled, so that might make your decision a little easier. They did come out with a new hardware version of the regular 560 though which is now significantly quieter.
Interesting as I just got offer from SZZS for CEF69 Frame with 560RS.

CleanShot 2026-04-08 at 14.50.38@2x.webp
 
Interesting as I just got offer from SZZS for CEF69 Frame with 560RS.

View attachment 181218
Not surprised, Bafang is an absolute disaster. Chili Shen said last week Bafang had discontinued it, I'm sure a bunch of the resellers have stock of a few motors they'll try and get rid of, but according to what she said (And she's generally very reliable) Bafang decided to cancel it.
 
I believe there is no difference between M560RS and new M560 other than firmware and the sticker so canceling RS is not really canceling, it is just they will not call it RS and the bicycles will use the old speed sensor.
 
I believe there is no difference between M560RS and new M560 other than firmware and the sticker so canceling RS is not really canceling, it is just they will not call it RS and the bicycles will use the old speed sensor.
So, maybe it would be better to go with a supported RS510 and upgrade controller or firmware later to increase TQ power?
 
As I understand 560 has more power than 510 so if you need more power you need 560. Regarding which one to choose RS or regular you need to see what is the speed sensor mount on your frame. Markhor KunLun V2 frame for instance has RS motor speed sensor mount and there is no mounting spot for old Bafang speed sensor. And old frames do not have mount for new RS speed sensors (that sensor did not exist when those frames was developed.)
 
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