Avinox SRAM AXS Motor power Cable (M1/M2 Variants)

i stand corrected
No. You would be correct. You can only connect a dropper to the motor canbus supply, if it's a Canbus Dropper, compatible with the Avinox Eco-system. Then you operate the dropper using the Avinox controls, without triggering the smoothshift.

But if you are just using the 12V supply from the Canbus cable to supply the dropper with power. Then you must use the Display port, or if you have Smoothshift enabled. Operating the dropper will trigger the motor to spool.
 
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No. You would be correct. You can only connect a dropper to the motor canbus supply, if it's a Canbus Dropper, compatible with the Avinox Eco-system. Then you operate the dropper using the Avinox controls, without triggering the smoothshift.

But if you are just using the 12V supply from the Canbus cable to supply the dropper with power. Then you must use the Display port, or if you have Smoothshift enabled. Operating the dropper will trigger the motor to spool.
Cool. Looks like the display port is the way forward for my needs. My new bike (when it turns up) has the rear brake hose running down the top tube so there should be an opening I can use to get the cable in there.
 
Does anyone know where I could get a replacement SRAM AXS Power cord for the Avinox M2S? (00.3018.418.001)(Higo Z405 connector).

I managed to botch my supplied one by not using the right tools 😒 I can't seem to find one online and I'd prefer to get it installed and out the way before resorting to batteries. I have since bought the "Parktool" .IR3 knockoff on Ali Express and it works really well - I managed to do it correctly with a dummy cable in 10 mins vs struggling and messing it up after 6 hours beforehand 🤦

I've reached outto Troyden at Crestline to see if he can assist as well.

Thanks in advance!
 
I'd bet there's a future lineup of lighter/smaller/cheaper "wired" derailleurs which have no provisions for batteries or Bluetooth.
Wow, that didn't take long.
1782281207009.webp
 
Ok, my frame is finally here and I could make some measurements.

M2S Motor and the Higo Z 405 lightcable from Nanobike.
PXL_20260624_155133303.webp


I can confirm this pinout (picture stolen from a post somewhere earlier in this thread)

1000013110.webp


Interesting are the voltages when turning on the system:

yellow - black: 10,2 V
yellow - green: 10,2 V
red - black: 1,8 V
red - green: 1.8 V
--> yellow - red: 12 V

green and black are on the same voltage potential, but they are not both ground. There is a resistance of 480 Ohm between them. This is also not CAN, where I would expect 120 Ohm and around 3 V. That's as far as my knowledge goes.
 
Ok, my frame is finally here and I could make some measurements.

M2S Motor and the Higo Z 405 lightcable from Nanobike.
View attachment 187400

I can confirm this pinout (picture stolen from a post somewhere earlier in this thread)

View attachment 187398

Interesting are the voltages when turning on the system:

yellow - black: 10,2 V
yellow - green: 10,2 V
red - black: 1,8 V
red - green: 1.8 V
--> yellow - red: 12 V

green and black are on the same voltage potential, but they are not both ground. There is a resistance of 480 Ohm between them. This is also not CAN, where I would expect 120 Ohm and around 3 V. That's as far as my knowledge goes.
My Post 👍

Thanks for the info. No idea what it means ?
I just used YL & RD for my light connection.
😎
 
3D-print is running right now, maybe I'll finish today. Baseplate is done and temporarily connected.
What I can already say is that with the Nanobike cable, using red as negative and yellow as positive input to a cheap step down from Aliexpress I can shift. No smoke anywhere. 😁 If the smoothshift function works I can only tell when the build is complete and I can actually ride the bike, or at least have the motor in and the chain on. But I am confident.
 
Posted this thread
 
Done. Works. (At least normal shifting. Smoothshift to be tested when fully assembled)
PXL_20260618_190846820.webp


PXL_20260625_213656064.webp
PXL_20260625_213622442.webp
PXL_20260625_215340128.webp


Printed in PTEG with Carbon Fiber for baseplate and body, TPU 95A for the cable inlet. Step down converter from Aliexpress and cable from nanobike. Glue for joining body and baseplate as well as waterproofing cable inlet and electrical contacts is UHU polymax (in white, so I can see what I'm doing). Cable ~€20, rest <€10 altogether (most of the material was already here, so taking only the used portion into account).
When considering the time for design, prototyping and manufacture probably the most expensive component on the bike 😄
 
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