2023 Orbea Wild

Yeah so it seems we have the same issue. I’ve made warranty claim in my LBS and so far no news. In my opinion bearings are fine but tolerances are way off cussing to much pressure on bearings rollers. Generally I’m a bit disappointed when it comes to quality of Orbea. I mean they do design great bikes don’t get me wrong but tolerances, frame hardware and paint are not on the same levels as for example Santa Cruz.
I agree 100%. Please keep me updated what they are going to do about it. Should they do anything at all.
Really disappointed that they don’t check the quality of the bearing installation at all. Neither before or after the installation.
 
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One of the first mods I did to my wild H10 was add the compression adjuster to the shock even before riding it I made shure the suspension moved freely trough the travel with the shock off the bike and the shock bolts bolt's went back in easily hopefully frame alignment is good
 
I have the same issues with mine. you can also check the bearing where the ”trunnion side” of the shock is mounted to the frame. They are ridiculous hard to rotate by hand. When the shock is mounted and I move the shock it feels very notchy. I also don’t really know what to do. I contacted Orbea and they told me to contact the dealer I bought it from. Dealer is 400km away and doesn’t give a damn. He said it’s all good. Orbea knows what they are doing. I mean sure thing, they put a bearing in there which is meant to not rotate. Either they have absolutely no idea what the are doing or they just don’t care. Anyhow needles to say that I will never buy orbea again and already successfully talked a friend out of buying a Orbea Occam.

Now that I’m done with my rant. I have to admit, I hope they improve in customer service and quality because the bike rides actually quite nicely.
One of my trunnion bearings felt tight. I popped the seal and added some grease to it.
Moving again but feels a bit notchy.
Tried to tap it out of the carbon frame but wouldn’t budge & I didn’t want to tap it too hard.

Will need to address this,I think, but not sure the correct method for removal.
Tap harder to get it to move or use some type of bearing press tooling?
 
I’m curious what they gonna say about mine since there are supposed to remove the bearings.
 
I reckon the trunnion bearings get notchy because they don't move far - the balls are always pressing on nearly the same spot on the race. They're the only bearings I've had to replace on my Cube's rear suspension after 1400km. (one was seized, one was notchy)
 
I reckon the trunnion bearings get notchy because they don't move far - the balls are always pressing on nearly the same spot on the race. They're the only bearings I've had to replace on my Cube's rear suspension after 1400km. (one was seized, one was notchy)
You are right, but mine were barely moving with a brand new bike. 0km. Tolerances for the housing are just bad.

@kombos you could use a rod and feed it through both bearings with two nuts and washers between the bearings. Then you can push them out easily. Question is if you should do it on a new bike
 
You are right, but mine were barely moving with a brand new bike. 0km. Tolerances for the housing are just bad.

@kombos you could use a rod and feed it through both bearings with two nuts and washers between the bearings. Then you can push them out easily. Question is if you should do it on a new bike
You are referring to bearings mounted in rocker or frame?
 
Seems like You need frame replaced under warranty…
Yes, but ain’t nobody got time for that. It’s already my second frame. I’ll ride it until winter and then bring it to a shop for bearing replacement. If the new bearings are still notchy, I’ll ask them to contact Orbea.
 
Yes, but ain’t nobody got time for that. It’s already my second frame. I’ll ride it until winter and then bring it to a shop for bearing replacement. If the new bearings are still notchy, I’ll ask them to contact Orbea.
What happened to first frame? Was it also faulty?
 
So, yesterday I cracked the motor cover in 2 places when I was a bit to optimistic crossing a fallen tree : ( .
I'm actually surprised it lasted this long, given how many rock hits I've had lately - but it is a pretty stout piece of plastic. A spare Orbea part is 29,95 € which isn't totally unreasonable. But still. I'm wondering if anyone has tried the aftermarket offerings? So far I've found:
full_sabot-aluminium-orbea-wild-2023-2024-7.jpg


rockguardz.jpg


orbra-wild-1-scaled.jpg


 
My thoughts so far: The AVS looks promising. Ok, I bend parts like this on a dayly basis at work. using cnc brake presses so I might be a bit biased. I'm tempted to (and probably will) make one myself. Only drawback I see, it really doesn't look nice on the bike. The angular looks and the gaps are not aesthetically pleasing to my eye on the flowing form of the Wild frame.

The Rockguardz looks good - but is just a piece of carbon fiber slapped over the stock guard. I wonder how much better it'll hold up to impacts? I would much prefer a complete copy of the original piece in carbon.

The protect bash plate is the same idea in aluminum. Has anyone used this?

I've ordered some carbon fibre mats and epoxy last night. I'll try to beef up/repair the original part with a layer or two of carbon fibre and see if it'll hold up.
I've been abusing a P3 carbon skid plate on my KTM EXC F for years. I wish I could find something similar for the Wild.
 
Got my Wiled back after service of faulty bearings. They said that it was bad factory assembly and bearings were improperly aligned? Orbea refused warranty claim so I had to pay for everything on brand new bike ! Please consider that Orbea support is very poor and their assembly as well as paintjobs are behind brands like Są ta Cruz, Pivot and Specialized. Yet they charge You premium.
 
They said that it was bad factory assembly
Clearly a warranty case, but poor after sales service has been my experience too. Buy a Cube, etc instead for a lot less money and still get a bosch CX motor.
 
Anyone experienced this before? After my ride today, I noticed my shock was heavily worn on one side. Stock suspension, only 170 miles on the bike.

View attachment 139652
I figured I would circle back on this issue as I finally got the bike back. Turns out it was a front triangle issue and the triangle and shock was warrantied by Orbea. Took about a month from taking it to the shop for diagnosis to getting it back. Unfortunately Orbea did not pay for the labor to swap out the triangle/shock and so I had to pay $600 out of pocket to get it done. A little frustrated with having to pay since this was a manufacturer defect and the bike only had 170 miles on it.
 
I figured I would circle back on this issue as I finally got the bike back. Turns out it was a front triangle issue and the triangle and shock was warrantied by Orbea. Took about a month from taking it to the shop for diagnosis to getting it back. Unfortunately Orbea did not pay for the labor to swap out the triangle/shock and so I had to pay $600 out of pocket to get it done. A little frustrated with having to pay since this was a manufacturer defect and the bike only had 170 miles on it.
This is my experience as well. Orbea didn’t pay for bearing swap in my Wild.
 
Supp everyone
How is going with your wild??
It’s currently in my top list, I will probably get a Wild Carbon to replace my Mondraker Crafty alloy
I didn’t read the whole thread yet, but seems people had trouble with paintjob(want red wine or blue carbon view ), weak steam/spacers and rear suspension alignment?
Is the wild carbon frame reliable ?
Anything more ?
Is it possible to fit a Ohlinx ttx22 m on a S frame?
Also I saw some people running it as mullet with 180 fork for the bb

Looking for answers, thank you !
 
Supp everyone
How is going with your wild??
It’s currently in my top list, I will probably get a Wild Carbon to replace my Mondraker Crafty alloy
I didn’t read the whole thread yet, but seems people had trouble with paintjob(want red wine or blue carbon view ), weak steam/spacers and rear suspension alignment?
Is the wild carbon frame reliable ?
Anything more ?
Is it possible to fit a Ohlinx ttx22 m on a S frame?
Also I saw some people running it as mullet with 180 fork for the bb

Looking for answers, thank you !
I would say overall this is a great bike but you have to be aware of few issues that might come up or not dependent on your luck.

1. On my Wild stock paint was fine. Nothing amazing if you look up close but nothing bad either so I wouldnt worry about thaty.
2. People are having problems with poorly aligned alu frames.
3. There are few known cases of poor bearings aligment.
4. Bosch motor has obvious rattle (like every other bosch motor).
5. Headset routing is fiddly but for me this wasnt an issue.
6. Orbea warrany is rather subpar - known fact.

This is a great bike and keep in mind that people without issue are not vocal mose of the time.
 
I would say overall this is a great bike but you have to be aware of few issues that might come up or not dependent on your luck.

1. On my Wild stock paint was fine. Nothing amazing if you look up close but nothing bad either so I wouldnt worry about thaty.
2. People are having problems with poorly aligned alu frames.
3. There are few known cases of poor bearings aligment.
4. Bosch motor has obvious rattle (like every other bosch motor).
5. Headset routing is fiddly but for me this wasnt an issue.
6. Orbea warrany is rather subpar - known fact.

This is a great bike and keep in mind that people without issue are not vocal mose of the time.
Thanks for your answer, really appreciate it
Can’t wait to test ride it before making the moove!
 
Supp everyone
How is going with your wild??
It’s currently in my top list, I will probably get a Wild Carbon to replace my Mondraker Crafty alloy
I didn’t read the whole thread yet, but seems people had trouble with paintjob(want red wine or blue carbon view ), weak steam/spacers and rear suspension alignment?
Is the wild carbon frame reliable ?
Anything more ?
Is it possible to fit a Ohlinx ttx22 m on a S frame?
Also I saw some people running it as mullet with 180 fork for the bb

Looking for answers, thank you !
Im batling between crafty and wild atm, why you want to replace your crafty? Ofc alloy to carbon is one reason i think
 
Im batling between crafty and wild atm, why you want to replace your crafty? Ofc alloy to carbon is one reason i think
I find that the alloy is a bit too heavy.. with fox38, coil shox, dh casing, you get to 27+kg really easy
Crafty carbon vs orbea carbon, orbea is lighter and geo is more aggressive and seems more playful
For now I’m only doing speculations, and I will need to test ride a lot before doing any choices. I plan to test rides both, to be continued!
 
I find that the alloy is a bit too heavy.. with fox38, coil shox, dh casing, you get to 27+kg really easy
Crafty carbon vs orbea carbon, orbea is lighter and geo is more aggressive and seems more playful
For now I’m only doing speculations, and I will need to test ride a lot before doing any choices. I plan to test rides both, to be continued!
Also the ability to choose a 625wh directly and choices of components with myo is real plus too
 
I find that the alloy is a bit too heavy.. with fox38, coil shox, dh casing, you get to 27+kg really easy
Crafty carbon vs orbea carbon, orbea is lighter and geo is more aggressive and seems more playful
For now I’m only doing speculations, and I will need to test ride a lot before doing any choices. I plan to test rides both, to be continued!
Okay thanks for reply! I see your point now. Im batling between h10 and al crafty/level, carbon frames seems to be out of my budget even with sales going on here and there. Orbeas al frames seem to be bit hit or miss with misaligemnt.
 
Yeah the level seems cool too!
But there is a lot of people who are happy with there orbea alloy too
Best is to test ourself and do our opinion, I guess
 
Just seen the 25 model year bikes no major changes but the motor is blurred out on the pictures and the part number is different bdu375 rather than the bdu450 used now and no race model available
 
I find that the alloy is a bit too heavy.. with fox38, coil shox, dh casing, you get to 27+kg really easy
Crafty carbon vs orbea carbon, orbea is lighter and geo is more aggressive and seems more playful
For now I’m only doing speculations, and I will need to test ride a lot before doing any choices. I plan to test rides both, to be continued!
FYI, my alloy large comes in at 26.3kgs. That is with Maxxis DD tires, cushcore inserts, Stock fork, and Air shock.
 
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