2023 Orbea Wild

First, you read wrong. Go and check their website.

Second the adapter for the extender was just released by Orbea. Unlikely anyone has any pics yet but you can email them.


Ok. I read a few pages back here in this tread too. Many people say you cant add the extender and many say you can. So has anyone actually put one on the Orbea? No one has posted a pic and there seems to be a lot of couch mechanics in this thread.
 
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Ok. I read a few pages back here in this tread too. Many people say you cant add the extender and many say you can. So has anyone actually put one on the Orbea? No one has posted a pic and there seems to be a lot of couch mechanics in this thread.
So the battery for the extender has been compatible but orbea hadn't released their kit/adapter to mount the battery til this past October I want to say. So both views were correct. The 2024 and 2023 bodies are the same and you can buy the extender and battery with a new 2024 build. The adapter is available via the Orbea website if you want to buy the battery separately for the 2023 or 2024 models.
 
So the battery for the extender has been compatible but orbea hadn't released their kit/adapter to mount the battery til this past October I want to say. So both views were correct. The 2024 and 2023 bodies are the same and you can buy the extender and battery with a new 2024 build. The adapter is available via the Orbea website if you want to buy the battery separately for the 2023 or 2024 models.
Thanks. Do you have a link for the kit? I cant seem to find it.
 
Yeah was looking for it. Their website organization is dog shit.

If/when I were to buy this I'd be messaging their customer support first to make sure I am buying all the right components as their descriptions are not helpful. Including "The Bosch PowerMore 250 bracket is aldo required" without stating where to buy that at.
 
RTFM ;)

You find everything on the Support Page. Orbea even has a dedicated installation Guide for the Powermore on the Wild 2023. There you can find everything you need to install the battery.

These Information are pretty easy to find. Klick „Support“ then „Manuals“. It’s not that hard ;)

 
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RTFM ;)

You find everything on the Support Page. Orbea even has a dedicated installation Guide for the Powermore on the Wild 2023. There you can find everything you need to install the battery.

These Information are pretty easy to find. Klick „Support“ then „Manuals“. It’s not that hard ;)

As an information architect, respectfully disagree. Their design is not a logical flow for average users
 
RTFM ;)

You find everything on the Support Page. Orbea even has a dedicated installation Guide for the Powermore on the Wild 2023. There you can find everything you need to install the battery.

These Information are pretty easy to find. Klick „Support“ then „Manuals“. It’s not that hard ;)

You know what else is not hard? Posting a link. :) Thanks. Ill check it out. Found it.

300mm cord is needed
 
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You know what else is not hard? Posting a link. :) Thanks. Ill check it out. Found it.

300mm cord is needed

I did.

IMG_9188.jpeg
 
I know. I just meant it's not hard posting a link and not saying how easy it is to find. I really appreciate all the help.

And thanks batmantis too! 300mm cord seems really long to me. How about you?
 
I don,t know who build my M20 but there was more grease in pretty much every hole as I normally would use to stay satified for a looong time;)
There was even locktite on the shock bolds
 
I changed the Orbea stem/spacer to a regular "non-spin block" stem with round spacers. Do I have to remove the frame stop? The bluepaper isn't clear about this.

I tried it with the frame stop in the headset but I had some issues when rotating the bars over the former blocked position.

1705486485693.png
 
I changed the Orbea stem/spacer to a regular "non-spin block" stem with round spacers. Do I have to remove the frame stop? The bluepaper isn't clear about this.

I tried it with the frame stop in the headset but I had some issues when rotating the bars over the former blocked position.

View attachment 132615
You don’t have to remove it, I left mine in to potentially help keep the forks from the down tube in a crash.
 
I changed the Orbea stem/spacer to a regular "non-spin block" stem with round spacers. Do I have to remove the frame stop? The bluepaper isn't clear about this.

I tried it with the frame stop in the headset but I had some issues when rotating the bars over the former blocked position.

View attachment 132615
I just installed a regular stem, Raceface Turbine. Removed the spin block frame stopper but I do have an XL frame
 
Thanks! With the L frame and the Fox 38 there is also no real contact. The rubber downtube bumper slightly touches the high speed compression dial and opens it by 2 clicks. ;)
 
Hi all, I wanted to shorten the dropper cable as it sticks out past the bars and it annoys me, so I took the lever off and started to try and pull through the cable from the seat post end. It really doesn't move very much, has anyone taken their post out? seems like it's stiff past the battery/motor, last thing I want to have to do is drop the motor, just to take a few MM off a cable. (and if I have the post out, it would be rude not to upgrade the seat clamp, what size is it?)

Cable.png
 
Hi all, I wanted to shorten the dropper cable as it sticks out past the bars and it annoys me, so I took the lever off and started to try and pull through the cable from the seat post end. It really doesn't move very much, has anyone taken their post out? seems like it's stiff past the battery/motor, last thing I want to have to do is drop the motor, just to take a few MM off a cable. (and if I have the post out, it would be rude not to upgrade the seat clamp, what size is it?)

View attachment 133511
Did you remember to remove the end cap, because I didn’t! A good pull fixed it though, end cap came out once I turned the bike upside down.
Edit: I removed mine entirely for AXS Reverb, so perhaps not relevant to your predicament.
 
Your best bet is undo the cable and remove the crimp from inner wire pull the seat post out along with the inner wire trim the outer to length use a new inner wire and thead it to the outer down the seat tube this is a bit tricky once the inner is trough connect to the dropper and pull the inner wire while guiding the post in,
 
Your best bet is undo the cable and remove the crimp from inner wire pull the seat post out along with the inner wire trim the outer to length use a new inner wire and thead it to the outer down the seat tube this is a bit tricky once the inner is trough connect to the dropper and pull the inner wire while guiding the post in,
Trouble is the cable doesn't move to pull it through to pull the inner cable free.
 
Don't need to touch the outer cable just remove it from the dropper lever and remove the crimp undo the seatpost clamp and put it out with the seatpost then trim outer casing at the bar end refit seatpost with new inner cable
 
Don't need to touch the outer cable just remove it from the dropper lever and remove the crimp undo the seatpost clamp and put it out with the seatpost then trim outer casing at the bar end refit seatpost with new inner cable
I'll try that tonight!
 
If you tape it before cutting, it won’t fray. Be sure to add a crimp before it does.
Try taping a inner cable the pulling it through the outer and let me know how it goes once it's clamped and crimped it very difficult to get in to feed back though the outer far easier to replace the inner wire
 
HI All, Looking at a H10 wild. Very very hard to seem them in person here, so a couple of questions, id like to raise the height of the stem a bit, out of the factory is there any room to put spacers under the stem that maybe were sitting on top?
Is there much length on the riser and how difficult was it to change the stem? Thinking a smaller stack stem can sit higher with some high rise bars and maybe a 35MM length .
Any details or pictures would be helpful to see if i can do what i need. HOw do the cables route through the headset area if i do change stems?
last question is on brakes, in my country they tend to restrict customizations if there is stock of the default bike in stock, wanted to upgrade the brakes to XT from the 6120 standard . and the stem from 40MM to 35MM. Ive been told that to change the brakes is significant due to the motor needing to drop? correct or not, .. we are talking 2x or 3x the cost if dropping motor needed and with no ability to customise the bike from the factory its a big added cost to account for.

ok any help is greately appreciated

thanks
 
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