Cube one77 2025

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What headset angle do you all prefer and why ? I ride mostly very steep tech and have left mine the slack angle since i purchased the bike. Today I thought i would try the steep angle, got a couple of runs down my local trails, I am undecided if I like the setting or not.
 
Ive settled on slack for my off piste/ dh riding

Slack is the top cup notch at the headset rear and bottom cup notch facing lower front. Ive seen so many incorrect posts on this in other places

Headset bearings are also is52 not zs56 if keeping the angle cups
 
Raptor said:
Ive settled on slack for my off piste/ dh riding

Slack is the top cup notch at the headset rear and bottom cup notch facing lower front. Ive seen so many incorrect posts on this in other places

Headset bearings are also is52 not zs56 if keeping the angle cups
Click to expand...
I think I will put it back to slack setting as it suits my riding style. If I decide to raise the fork 10mm I will put it back in the steep setting.

I have seen a couple of the mentioned posts.

Changing the headset is something I will be doing when I change the break levers, it will be nice to retain the cups.
 
paul.williams_1981@yahoo. said:
Thanks, I had an email yesterday recommending the same part. Let me know how you get on please bud.
Click to expand...

The is52 version arrived today and it appears to fit well within my spare angle cup. It will be at least a week before I can fit mine but based on what I've received and tried, I'd suggest you're good to go here
 
Raptor said:
Check your fork steerer tubes guys! Fox today confirmed mine is fecked due to dodgy headset - most likely the crappy upper bearing compression ring not doing its job properly and causing wear. New fork time for me :( .
Click to expand...

Steerer Tube Replacement

Mountain Bike Suspension Service, Tuning and Sales Centre covering Ohlins, RockShox, Fox, Cane Creek, Andreani, Push Industries, Marzocchi, Manitou, Sprindex, SKF, WPS. Based in Shrewsbury, Shropshire UK. Dyno Testing, data logging, kinematics analysis.
j-techsuspension.co.uk j-techsuspension.co.uk
 

Attachments

Did my Stereo 160 a while back based on this CUBE table / Download
They do a new version now. I found my 2025 ONE77 SLX listed. I try to convert the PDF into an excel sheet now.
 

Attachments

BeatM. said:
I bought a set for my old 160 stereo based on this download from Cube Site ..
Tried to find it agin for my new 077 SLX 2025 and found a updated version ( https://file.cube.eu/azwesc1xfg246/media/30/7e/92/1733144712/Schaltaugen_Lagersätze_MY25.pdf)
Click to expand...
confused by this post. you are referring to frame bearings? If so they are freely available - example here which I recently bought: https://www.kineticbikebearings.com...ube-stereo-hybrid-one77-hpc-2025-onwards.html
 
Raptor said:
will you be changing the stem away from the cube 50mm one too?
Click to expand...
This is what mine turned out like. Still on the original headset but no X-port and with a slimline Acros 32.52.107R1 AM cable port, standard round fit stem and headset spacers
I got rid of the Purion 200 and the dropper cable as well

IMG_0030.webp
IMG_0031.webp
 
Beaker2135 said:
This is what mine turned out like. Still on the original headset but no X-port and with a slimline Acros 32.52.107R1 AM cable port, standard round fit stem and headset spacers
I got rid of the Purion 200 and the dropper cable as well

View attachment 181491View attachment 181493
Click to expand...
looks good - I am replacing the ICR with the easybikeparts one so I won't be using the Acros kit. What's the height in mm of your spacers please, assuming you didn't need to amend the length of your steerer?
 
Raptor said:
looks good - I am replacing the ICR with the easybikeparts one so I won't be using the Acros kit. What's the height in mm of your spacers please, assuming you didn't need to amend the length of your steerer?
Click to expand...
I didn’t alter the steerer, the stem is 40mm and I have 15mm of spacers in total
I like the look of the easybikeparts one but if/when I change mine I’ll probably change the lot and fit a non adjustable one
 
Raptor said:
Check your fork steerer tubes guys! Fox today confirmed mine is fecked due to dodgy headset - most likely the crappy upper bearing compression ring not doing its job properly and causing wear.
Click to expand...
Checked my fork steerer this morning and there's some scuffing in the immediate area around that overly complicated headset routing compression ring, but fortunately nothing worse. I did fit a 40mm e-thirteen stem last year, with 15mm of normal steerer tube spacers needed between the new stem and the original cube cable routing headset thingy that houses the headlamp socket (that I don't ever use). Hopefully that might have already tightened everything up a bit better than the original setup, plus my One77 is an XL that has a 130mm headtube that should reduce the forces on the tube too (longer headtube equals smaller lever arm forces on the steerer). After checking that, I then took everything in the headset apart and took the crown race, then liberally coated all bearings and sealing/compression rings with grease before reassembling. I've historically never found a downside to using loads of grease in headsets, but have seen plenty of issues where manufacturers have been sparing with grease in the initial build resulting in avoidable corrosion or wear within months.

I'd like to say I'll check it all again in a couple of months to confirm no further deterioration or wear on the fork steerer, but it's an utter ball-ache getting that integrated bit of the headset back together again properly (took over an hour of swearing...). The particular bit that was a pain was that headlamp cable, it just seemed to always be too long and gets in the way when trying to get everything back together. So, I'm mighty tempted to go for a better designed solution, but can anyone who has fitted a different headset kit (from easybikeparts.co.uk or elsewhere) confirm whether you have to ditch the headlamp cable+socket or there's still somewhere for it to go?
 
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Have you seen post 1125?
I discuss what I did with my headset and there’s a couple of pics
I chose to take the cable out but you can coil it up and leave it in the top tube if you prefer
 
FlashToBang said:
Checked my fork steerer this morning and there's some scuffing in the immediate area around that overly complicated headset routing compression ring, but fortunately nothing worse. I did fit a 40mm e-thirteen stem last year, with 15mm of normal steerer tube spacers needed between the new stem and the original cube cable routing headset thingy that houses the headlamp socket (that I don't ever use). Hopefully that might have already tightened everything up a bit better than the original setup, plus my One77 is an XL that has a 130mm headtube that should reduce the forces on the tube too (longer headtube equals smaller lever arm forces on the steerer). After checking that, I then took everything in the headset apart and took the crown race, then liberally coated all bearings and sealing/compression rings with grease before reassembling. I've historically never found a downside to using loads of grease in headsets, but have seen plenty of issues where manufacturers have been sparing with grease in the initial build resulting in avoidable corrosion or wear within months.

I'd like to say I'll check it all again in a couple of months to confirm no further deterioration or wear on the fork steerer, but it's an utter ball-ache getting that integrated bit of the headset back together again properly (took over an hour of swearing...). The particular bit that was a pain was that headlamp cable, it just seemed to always be too long and gets in the way when trying to get everything back together. So, I'm mighty tempted to go for a better designed solution, but can anyone who has fitted a different headset kit (from easybikeparts.co.uk or elsewhere) confirm whether you have to ditch the headlamp cable+socket or there's still somewhere for it to go?
Click to expand...
I have the easybikeparts IS52 headset and will fit it soon once I get a new stem. From what I can see it won't allow use of the light cable (which for me is fine as I don't use it anyway). So at least that complexity is gone.

On the steerer tube, I was under the impression that the compression ring which sits between the bearing and the steerer is of a friction design and not to use grease on the compression ring where it meets the steerer. is this not correct then?

Having disassembled/reassembled the stock Acros headset a number of times, I find the knack is to use a zip tie to keep the sodding lot together and ensure the 2 plastic locating pegs are aligned properly on the plastic cap (one of mine was bent hence not being able to compress it all properly on reassembly).
 
Raptor said:
On the steerer tube, I was under the impression that the compression ring which sits between the bearing and the steerer is of a friction design and not to use grease on the compression ring where it meets the steerer.
Click to expand...
Yes, on reflection this probably is the intended way it should be assembled; greased up I found it easily rotates when you’re reassembling the steerer/headset/stem system and gets the light out of alignment with the forks facing forward. This did make things a further fiddle to get right when aligning and tightening the top cap and stem. If it keeps moving I’ll take things apart again, clean that area of grease and use a carbon gripper paste instead of grease around that compression thingy.
 
So does anyone have any suggestions to quieten the headset? The cracking coming from mine has gotten obnoxious, despite greasing it all up and tightening.
 
Rando_12345 said:
So does anyone have any suggestions to quieten the headset? The cracking coming from mine has gotten obnoxious, despite greasing it all up and tightening.
Click to expand...
I have the same problem, but I haven't disassembled the headset yet and haven't lubricated it. When I turn the handlebars, I can't hear anything, only when I sit on the bike and of course, while riding, and I weigh 100kg, they creak. I've only ridden 600km on this bike, and on my brother's bike, I can't hear anything, and he has the same bike and the same distance.
maybe it's not the cable casings but the bearings
 
Shaki said:
I have the same problem, but I haven't disassembled the headset yet and haven't lubricated it. When I turn the handlebars, I can't hear anything, only when I sit on the bike and of course, while riding, and I weigh 100kg, they creak. I've only ridden 600km on this bike, and on my brother's bike, I can't hear anything, and he has the same bike and the same distance.
maybe it's not the cable casings but the bearings
Click to expand...
Did you sort this out yet?
Mine has been to my LBS and was fine after greasing that headset for like 10 days but creaking is back from yesterday
 
After loosing the front end on a steep dusty off-piste shoot at my local trails yesterday, I've not only been left with a very hurty left shoulder (nothing broken though.... I think), but the Purion 400 display on my One77 AT was completely smashed and the cable port broke off (picture below); it's definitely non-repairable.
IMG_9923.webp

In tragedy there is opportunity and this is finally an excuse to change the main top tube controller for the Kiox 400c, rather than replace the Purion 400 with another Purion 400 (given it's in a rsiky place to get broken again). Having read some useful earlier posts in this thread, I think the sequence of events is:
  • Buy a Kiox 400c (already ordered from my LBS here)
  • Buy a Cube Kiox 400c top tube adaptor (already ordered from here)
  • Pull the Purion 400 cable through the headset routing and tape it up inside the top tube (likely never to be used again, but still there just in case)
  • Use the spare rubber/silicone cable port bung from the broken Purion 400 display to plug the hole in the headset routing left by the vacant Purion 400 cable
  • Remove the Purion 400 from my attached devices in the Bosch Flow app
  • Follow these videos and for an understanding of how the Purion 400 was setup in the 2025 One77 bikes (Y connector) and then then how to replace the original top tube controller with the Kiox 400c.
I still have a few questions in my head, that someone who has already done this might be able to help answer:
  1. Do I need to delete the bike from my Bosch Flow App first? (not planning to, but the first video shows adding the Kiox 400c like adding a new bike, hence the question)
  2. Will all of the stats for the bike be reset by doing this?
  3. Does it help removing the existing controller from the list of accessories for the bike in the Bosch Flow app, before adding and pairing the Kiox 400c? (wondering if this might help get around the error issue noted in the first video)
 
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FlashToBang said:
After loosing the front end on a steep dusty off-piste shoot at my local trails yesterday, I've not only been left with a very hurty left shoulder (nothing broken though.... I think), but the Purion 400 display on my One77 AT was completely smashed and the cable port broke off (picture below); it's definitely non-repairable.
View attachment 183041
In tragedy there is opportunity and this is finally an excuse to change the main top tube controller for the Kiox 400c, rather than replace the Purion 400 with another Purion 400 (given it's in a rsiky place to get broken again). Having read some useful earlier posts in this thread, I think the sequence of events is:
  • Buy a Kiox 400c (already ordered from my LBS here)
  • Buy a Cube Kiox 400c top tube adaptor (already ordered from here)
  • Pull the Purion 400 cable through the headset routing and tape it up inside the top tube (likely never to be used again, but still there just in case)
  • Use the spare rubber/silicone cable port bung from the broken Purion 400 display to plug the hole in the headset routing left by the vacant Purion 400 cable
  • Remove the Purion 400 from my attached devices in the Bosch Flow app
  • Follow these videos and for an understanding of how the Purion 400 was setup in the 2025 One77 bikes (Y connector) and then then how to replace the original top tube controller with the Kiox 400c.
I still have a few questions in my head, that someone who has already done this might be able to help answer:
  1. Do I need to delete the bike from my Bosch Flow App first? (not planning to, but the first video shows adding the Kiox 400c like adding a new bike, hence the question)
  2. Will all of the stats for the bike be reset by doing this?
  3. Does it help removing the existing controller from the list of accessories for the bike in the Bosch Flow app, before adding and pairing the Kiox 400c? (wondering if this might help get around the error issue noted in the first video)
Click to expand...
I’ve recently swapped my Purion for the Kiox. It’s fairly straight forward. You’re right in doing all the steps listed early on in your post. I just coiled my Purion cable up, bagged it tight and secured it in the frame.
I had to delete the bike from the Flow app, along with the Purion and the mini remote, as it threw a hissy fit and wouldn’t pair with bike. It worked fine once all re-installed. It retains the motor stats once you’re all set (mileage etc).
Hope this helps. Any snags then drop me a PM 👍🏻
 
Eyuplad said:
I’ve recently swapped my Purion for the Kiox. It’s fairly straight forward. You’re right in doing all the steps listed early on in your post. I just coiled my Purion cable up, bagged it tight and secured it in the frame.
I had to delete the bike from the Flow app, along with the Purion and the mini remote, as it threw a hissy fit and wouldn’t pair with bike. It worked fine once all re-installed. It retains the motor stats once you’re all set (mileage etc).
Hope this helps. Any snags then drop me a PM 👍🏻
Click to expand...
Forgot to add, I had to do the power and torque update again once installed.
 
Can that horrible headset be changed to a reliable one on the one 77?
mine is doing some clicking noise and it's driving me mad
Love the bike but hate these weird noises
 
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