2027 Orbea Wild LT Released - Avinox Powered

Grok just told me Spain “strictly” adheres to the EU standard of a 25kph (15.5 mph) limit. It would be amusing to me if Orbea’s own demo Wilds during the event weren’t actually legal in Spain and were set to Class 1 (20 mph).

Feel free to call this a Wild guess. 😉
No. They were EU standard of 25kph. Why would they run them in Class 1?!
 
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Hmm I assumed Shimano fallowed the same route as SRAM having the same derailleur work with it's battery or the bike power dongle/shoe but it looks like that isn't the case. My mistake.


Perhaps the RD-M8250 can be mapped for an 11sp cassette using the app however?
The M8260 is wired to a motor and I couldn't get it to work without a supported motor :(

Can't see any mapping in the app for the M8250 :(
 
Not sure about all the tech connected to the main battery. Do what extent do the electric gears, seat post and rear suspension drain the battery. I prefer longer range and not that fussed about electric controls that go wrong.
 
Not sure about all the tech connected to the main battery. Do what extent do the electric gears, seat post and rear suspension drain the battery. I prefer longer range and not that fussed about electric controls that go wrong.
Barely any power draw on these. Think about how tiny the AXS batteries are that you'd normally use. 300mAh tiny batteries.
 
Yeah, I think this is a miss to be honest. Wish it had the same as the Rallon.

My XL with 180mm fork is about 875mm front centre according to my tape measure. Pretty skewed FC:RC ratio
I can't help but compare this to the Atherton, which has shorter chain-stay lengths (albeit with size specific for different frame sizes), but has a longer wheelbase and a front centre of 882mm in Size 12. With those figures, you'd say their FC/RC ratio would be even more skewed, but first ride reports are stating it's a very good bike. It'll be interesting to see what you think of it when you get to ride one Rob. I've ordered an Atherton as it's A. British and i'm supporting local industry. B. Local-ish, so I can get any problems sorted - hopefully quickly and easily. C. Made of aluminium, which I prefer from an environmental aspect and D. It's as close a match to my XXL Megatower V1's geometry - which fits me at 1.98m very well and could only do with a steeper ST angle, which the Atherton has.
 
Not sure about all the tech connected to the main battery. Do what extent do the electric gears, seat post and rear suspension drain the battery. I prefer longer range and not that fussed about electric controls that go wrong.
Surely, if you go the electric route for bike components, you would want a shared power source, not charging each wire-less gizmo you might have. You do realize that energy consumption of a small servo motor or a remote is negligible to affect the range . You make one crank rotation at full motor power and that's the energy you would spent from all those accessories on the whole ride.

On Electric cars, you don't separately charge your headlights to save for range. You could turn off HVAC system, though
:)



This seems to me like a properly built production ebike.I'm more into Rise territory than Wild but...what a beauty.

Something like this I would have expected from latest Levo/Kenevo to be frank.

Another proof that Specialized screwed up with their Levo 4 platform.
 
But this dual use is only possible, if you can select high power, or select low power, or select mid power. The manufacturer locking you out of the choice to choose high power is stupid. It assumes the rider is stupid.
Interesting choice of words, although I have a feeling that the unique direction the RS tune has chosen could be ahead of the curve. I'm not making any claims, just being open minded.
 
Interesting choice of words, although I have a feeling that the unique direction the RS tune has chosen could be ahead of the curve. I'm not making any claims, just being open minded.
Sure. I'm just saying. I don't need to be forced into using lower power, when on longer rides. I know more power equals less range. So I'm quite capable of working that out myself, then selecting the appropriate power level.

Why dumb the bike down ? Dumb riders are not going to buy it.
 
Usually, it's a config part that's changed for different OEMs. I don't know in this specific case, if you want to know with certainty, you must reverse engineer the system. Marketing is marketing, engineering is engineering. First is based on story telling, second, not much so.
Even if the firmware would be a different (custom) build, it would be coded by Avinox/DJI, not Orbea. Orbea would just tweak the parameters they want, how they want, for their specific products.
I'm a software engineers so I'm very familiar with the options thus it would be good to know.

Of course is DJI coding it, there is no way that they would let an OEM rewrite part of the firmware, imaging if the motor blows the blame game between OEM and DJI. But they could have different versions for different OEM and this is not good.

100% same firmware and app, just a different config file, is a good implementation even more so if the firmware already contains all the oem specific config files. Everybody gets the same feature at the same time. No app store delays etc.
Vice versa if it is a custom firmware + custom app is bad, as is a nightmare to test and maintain plus it will end up with OEM firmware delays.

You want all M2s bikes in the world running the same firmware and in an ideal world all on the latest version.
Multiple apps, even if only white labeled, plus multiple firmware is a mess.
 
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Having had a couple of Orbea Rises witha "RS" tune, my view is that capping the power is pretty daft. You start pedalling faster and the motor just dies. Kills the "sporty" feeling. Ideally you want max torque to stay constant over a wide cadence band. If you want the battery to last longer, just reduce the torque by selecting a mode with less assistance.
 
The pinkbike article has more specifics of what was actually changed by Orbea

Those tuning parameters, for those curious: Pedal angle, 5x more sensitive. Pedal torque, 2x more sensitive. Pedal speed, 3x more sensitive. Assist start curve, 3.2x faster yield versus stock. All those increases might sound daunting, until you learn that the peak power has been reigned in to 750W at peak output.
 
Having had a couple of Orbea Rises witha "RS" tune, my view is that capping the power is pretty daft. You start pedalling faster and the motor just dies. Kills the "sporty" feeling. Ideally you want max torque to stay constant over a wide cadence band. If you want the battery to last longer, just reduce the torque by selecting a mode with less assistance.
Although, I think in some of the lighter Rises with very small batteries, the battery needed protection against high current, and thus over heating, which would significantly reduce the battery life.

Definitely not applicable to the Avinox RS System. It does sound like the power delivery tune works well. Just the power limit seems unnecessary.

Before Avinox. Shimano was my go to motor system. But I did steer clear of Orbea, due to the RS System. Accessing Shimano motor components, is just so easy in this region. So having the RS customisation, narrowed access to spares. I feel the same applies to Avinox RS customisation. It just reduces diversity of support, especially with that custom handlebar controller, and the unknown of what the software changes impact.
 
Just been looking at specifications and I think the H20 would suffice as I would fit my
DT swiss wheel set
Hope GR4 brakes
And upgradethe Zeb to ultimate damper
 
Having had a couple of Orbea Rises witha "RS" tune, my view is that capping the power is pretty daft. You start pedalling faster and the motor just dies. Kills the "sporty" feeling. Ideally you want max torque to stay constant over a wide cadence band. If you want the battery to last longer, just reduce the torque by selecting a mode with less assistance.
do you even know how 750w/130nm feels like?
 
Ignore any reports about 750w max power. Thats in the default Orbea modes.

1300w is available, with the RS tune as the base tune, so all the benefits of their excellent tune, with full power if you create your own modes (up to 5 user configureable modes)
Hi Rob, Orbea claims to have achieved much greater sensitivity in the motor sensors with their RS system set to 750w. If a new mode with more power were created, would the system still maintain that extra sensitivity when managing the motor?
 
Will there be a data transfer in return so that Avinox might incorporate these kinds of sensitivity improvements in future updates?
I think its highly likely that Avinox adds something like this in some way in the future.

Really its avinox who have programmed the motor with guidance from Orbea.
 
Is the Shimano derailleur on M10 bikes full wireless plugged into the motor like the SRAM t-type on current Avinox bikes?
 
I put together a quick geometry comparison of the Wild LT in L with a few bikes I currently ride and really like in terms of handling. My bikes are heavily modified though (e.g. a full 29er Kenevo and the Enduro converted to mullet with an MRP link), so keep that in mind. I also included the Atherton since it’s widely regarded as having excellent handling. The table is mainly relevant for anyone looking at the Wild LT in size M or L, but maybe some of you will still find it useful.

Geo Comparison.webp
 
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???
You're going to run an 11 speed Di2 ?
How are you doing that with an Avinox?
Thought you currently needed a Shimano or Bosch motor for that ??
Did some more research and yes, you are correct. The 11 speed is not wireless, so it won’t work with the Avinox motor. I’d have to go with the 12 speed. If going 12 speed, the AXS is likely where I’ll go, but I may try Shimano DI2 with a 9-45 cassette, which would allow me to run the shorter derailleur. I’ve run all AXS for the last 7 years, so not sure I want to make the switch, it figure why not give it a try.
 
I can't help but compare this to the Atherton, which has shorter chain-stay lengths (albeit with size specific for different frame sizes), but has a longer wheelbase and a front centre of 882mm in Size 12. With those figures, you'd say their FC/RC ratio would be even more skewed, but first ride reports are stating it's a very good bike. It'll be interesting to see what you think of it when you get to ride one Rob. I've ordered an Atherton as it's A. British and i'm supporting local industry. B. Local-ish, so I can get any problems sorted - hopefully quickly and easily. C. Made of aluminium, which I prefer from an environmental aspect and D. It's as close a match to my XXL Megatower V1's geometry - which fits me at 1.98m very well and could only do with a steeper ST angle, which the Atherton has.

I used to think that I had the chain stay length thing sort of figured out and I was a very early convert to the long CS gang but turns out the reality is notably different than just a simple front to rear ratio. I can say my pedal bikes were getting really good with above a 450mm CS length, but they were much lighter, particularly up front.

An e-bike and the location of its battery, and even the particular size of battery you speced matters, I suspect quite a bit.
Although I have theories, I don't get to test ride enough bikes to really know, but I theorize that when you combine the high & forward center of gravity of an 800wh Avinox battery, that the bike can remain balanced with a considerably shorter chain stay than it would need otherwise. Maybe this offers a functional advantage for some because they can get a nice short chassis, yet still have enough front end grip?
 
do you even know how 750w/130nm feels like?

750w/ 120nm feels stupid powerful on trails. But then I don't ride jeep or paved roads.

But anyways, I want to ride for >2.5 hours or so, so better to preserve some battery juice even if I did have wide open spaces.
 
I used to think that I had the chain stay length thing sort of figured out and I was a very early convert to the long CS gang but turns out the reality is notably different than just a simple front to rear ratio. I can say my pedal bikes were getting really good with above a 450mm CS length, but they were much lighter, particularly up front.

An e-bike and the location of its battery, and even the particular size of battery you speced matters, I suspect quite a bit.
Although I have theories, I don't get to test ride enough bikes to really know, but I theorize that when you combine the high & forward center of gravity of an 800wh Avinox battery, that the bike can remain balanced with a considerably shorter chain stay than it would need otherwise. Maybe this offers a functional advantage for some because they can get a nice short chassis, yet still have enough front end grip?
Same here. I cannot afford to buy or chop and change bikes at will, so I buy for the long term. It'll be interesting to compare how both bikes feel, back to back, once the Atherton arrives.
 
Yes. Its a complete custom tune on the motor, you cannot replicate it on the standard motor with any tuning in the app. The base tune on the RS Avinox is different.
You’ve recently demo’d the Pivot Amp’d and the new Wild. Did you adjust the Assist Start to its Max setting on the Pivot during your test rides? Can you say with certainty that the RS QuickStart tune on the Wild provides faster motor engagement than a standard Avinox motor set to maximal Assist Start? If so, that’s impressive!
 
Did some more research and yes, you are correct. The 11 speed is not wireless, so it won’t work with the Avinox motor. I’d have to go with the 12 speed. If going 12 speed, the AXS is likely where I’ll go, but I may try Shimano DI2 with a 9-45 cassette, which would allow me to run the shorter derailleur. I’ve run all AXS for the last 7 years, so not sure I want to make the switch, it figure why not give it a try.

I'll just throw out another option:

I've been running the WheelTop electronic derailleur for about 3 months and rather like it. It's like an Alibaba AXS ripoff, but honestly superior imo. It's at least as good as my AXS (not Transmission). Its big feature is that you can set it up to operate with any cassette you desire and they also sell 3 different cage lengths. The catch is that if you don't do the set up correctly, it'll never work right. It's pre-programmed with spacing for Shimano cassettes. In the real world it was barely heavier than a mechanical derailleur.

It can't be hardwired to any motor system however, so you lose those associated features. Since I still ride bikes with mechanical drivetrains this suited me well as I want to stay sharp in my shifting skills.
 
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