It is more of a bike peculiar issue, I never bottom out that easily a bike, had the issue with the stock fox float and the vivid air, ultimately I had more token and a bit more HBO. This was the first time I experience this on a bike versus all my others.
Other JUST DROPPED: All-new Slash+ e-MTB
- Thread starter ohiomoto
- Start date
It is not about travel issue but really nose dive. With everything that I do with this bike, I have to be very careful to pull way more the handlebar, be way more back etc to avoid issue during riding.
It becomes clear when I do big jumping, I need way more speed and force to make sure it does not dive.
I do not have the same issue for example on the KSL, I mean not by that magnitude, I tried faster rebound but up to a point it cannot stand that much etc.
I also think, and this is on me and Trek, the sizing of the bike is garbage. They remove the ML which is where I stand usually. At 5'10 and 73kg full equiped, most people took the L where I should have took the M, the bike is not as agile as I would like it to be and being in L ultimately for my type of riding is not great.
ebikerider
Well-known member
Still sounding like a set up issue.
I think you should spend some time adding volume spacers. No idea what build you have but if its rockshox start with two volume spacers and add in a 3rd to see if you like it. Do a few rides and change pressures, see what works for you in trails where you get this nose dive.
3 gave me the mid support I wanted, 2 wasn't quite there but decent enough.
Better yet, have a reputable tuning company shim your dampers and apply their recommended settings. I have J-TECH in the UK do all mine, saves me messing about trying to figure out the settings especially when the base tune doesn't suit your weight (in my case I am 95kg kitted so don't think the base tunes suit a big boy like me).
3 gave me the mid support I wanted, 2 wasn't quite there but decent enough.
Better yet, have a reputable tuning company shim your dampers and apply their recommended settings. I have J-TECH in the UK do all mine, saves me messing about trying to figure out the settings especially when the base tune doesn't suit your weight (in my case I am 95kg kitted so don't think the base tunes suit a big boy like me).
Noelmonkey
Member
I have a large frame for sale in NZ
$5k with warranty. Comes with 34.9 neo factory dropper and factory 2026 float X
Tqhpr50 Motor and battery (600km) headset and chainring. Ask me for photos. Frame is also invisiframe from new.
$5k with warranty. Comes with 34.9 neo factory dropper and factory 2026 float X
Tqhpr50 Motor and battery (600km) headset and chainring. Ask me for photos. Frame is also invisiframe from new.
yeah might try to have a 3rd token, no way to get a proper tune as nothing exist near me, lack of knowledge unfortunately and for the vivid air they even stop supporting it due to lack of stock parts.
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
That is a tough one!
I just had my Vivid & Zeb fully rebuilt.
When I took it in, I said I might like a firmer compression tune on the Vivid. The shop suggested they should open it up first... ~10 months of riding and the oil was dark grey.
I had the Zeb damper upgraded to a 3.1 (just new shims & knobs) which has noticably more support than the 3.0.
Rockshox says we need full damper rebuilds every 200hrs, and Fox says 125hrs. That is like 4-6 months max of relatively light use on an eBike. Tough if you don't have a good local suspension tuner.
Regardless, nose-diving does sound like less sag, or adding volume spacers to the fork would be the fix. I don't think it would be a reach issue.
Last edited:
Puff
New Member
Just a quick note on the updated TQ motor from somebody who just got a 2026 Slash+ after having their 2023 Fuel EXE stolen. A week ago in Australia the prices for a Slash+ 9.7 in medium (either 2025 or 2026) were much more attractive than any Fuel+ offerings.
HPR50 vs HPR60 motor
Before buying my next bike I read/watched nearly all the initial review videos on the Slash+ again, as well as those on the new Trek Fuel+ with the HPR60.
Seeing such positive reviews from the likes of Vital about the HPR60, when the previous year they were underwhelmed by the HPR50, I decided that it was worth the AUD$1K extra to me, and got the 2026 Slash+ 9.7.
I have only ridden it for about eight hours so far, but am very happy with my purchase (albeit underwhelmed by the DB8 brakes). The motor is noticeably quieter, more powerful, and more efficient. And by more than I was expecting. It no longer drops from level 3 assistance to level 2 five minutes into a climb (to prevent overheating).
Combined with the bigger 580kW battery I am confident that I'll now be able to take on much bigger days than I could on the Fuel EXE (which simply isn't an issue 95% of the time, but it will be nice to have that capability a few times a year). And on my local 200m vertical descent, which is pretty rocky and rooty, but not that steep, I set a faster time on just my second ride than I ever did in the 90 times I rode it on my EXE.
Still pissed off that somebody stole my bike. But definitely finding the Slash+ is a nice little upgrade on what I had, which softens the blow a little.
HPR50 vs HPR60 motor
Before buying my next bike I read/watched nearly all the initial review videos on the Slash+ again, as well as those on the new Trek Fuel+ with the HPR60.
Seeing such positive reviews from the likes of Vital about the HPR60, when the previous year they were underwhelmed by the HPR50, I decided that it was worth the AUD$1K extra to me, and got the 2026 Slash+ 9.7.
I have only ridden it for about eight hours so far, but am very happy with my purchase (albeit underwhelmed by the DB8 brakes). The motor is noticeably quieter, more powerful, and more efficient. And by more than I was expecting. It no longer drops from level 3 assistance to level 2 five minutes into a climb (to prevent overheating).
Combined with the bigger 580kW battery I am confident that I'll now be able to take on much bigger days than I could on the Fuel EXE (which simply isn't an issue 95% of the time, but it will be nice to have that capability a few times a year). And on my local 200m vertical descent, which is pretty rocky and rooty, but not that steep, I set a faster time on just my second ride than I ever did in the 90 times I rode it on my EXE.
Still pissed off that somebody stole my bike. But definitely finding the Slash+ is a nice little upgrade on what I had, which softens the blow a little.
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
Hey Slash'ers
Jank Components (Eric Olsen) is now offering a much sturdier replacement taco/bashguards for the Slash+. I can guarantee they fit. They don't have the void that cracks easily like the stock ones, and they are much thicker too.
You may recognize Eric from Pinkbike Academy, or bikepacking between EWS races.
Check 'em out here
Jank Components (Eric Olsen) is now offering a much sturdier replacement taco/bashguards for the Slash+. I can guarantee they fit. They don't have the void that cracks easily like the stock ones, and they are much thicker too.
You may recognize Eric from Pinkbike Academy, or bikepacking between EWS races.
Check 'em out here
Within a week for the many motors I've had replaced on my fuel exe
I've got a 2026 slash+ 9.7 arriving soon to replace a trek fuel exe.
I'm going to fit the following off the fuel exe
-oneup carbon bars
-magic mary radial tyre on front, haven't decided on a rear tyre yet, but probably big betty or maybe tacky chan.
-hope tech 4 v4 brakes
The rest I'm hoping to leave stock. Couple of questions -
-what are the bontrager line comp 30 wheels like? Can they handle a beating as long as the tyre pressures are high enough.
-anything else I need to know about the bike before I start riding it?
I'm going to fit the following off the fuel exe
-oneup carbon bars
-magic mary radial tyre on front, haven't decided on a rear tyre yet, but probably big betty or maybe tacky chan.
-hope tech 4 v4 brakes
The rest I'm hoping to leave stock. Couple of questions -
-what are the bontrager line comp 30 wheels like? Can they handle a beating as long as the tyre pressures are high enough.
-anything else I need to know about the bike before I start riding it?
Those wheels are a bloody nightmare to seat tyres on thats all you should know
I Have read that I should remove the plastic/rubber rim strip and replace with tubeless tape, so will be doing that.
I did this as well just never got on with that wheelset theyre a pain.
ebikerider
Well-known member
Has anyone put a coil on their Slash+? The back end is quite good even with the stock Float which I was surprised about but a coil was always planned. What spring rate and weight are those that have gone coil?
How are you finding the chain slap noise? On my first ride mine sounded like carbon cracking
I've since been wrapping the chainstay in mastic tape which has helped a lot, but I'll likely remove all of it including the stock protector and try the VHS slapper tape next. Then possibly build a wheel with the E13 sidekick hub to settle the chain further if needed.
How are you finding the chain slap noise? On my first ride mine sounded like carbon cracking
I've since been wrapping the chainstay in mastic tape which has helped a lot, but I'll likely remove all of it including the stock protector and try the VHS slapper tape next. Then possibly build a wheel with the E13 sidekick hub to settle the chain further if needed.How are you finding the chain slap noise? On my first ride mine sounded like carbon cracking
I wrapped mine in VHS and much later removed the rear mudguard. Use an old inner tube if you have one.
Wonder why mine is taking so long.
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
VHS Slapper tape makes a big difference. Much quieter than the stock stuff.How are you finding the chain slap noise? On my first ride mine sounded like carbon cracking
Strictly on chain noise: I'm on transmission and there is really no noticeable chain noise- this is about the quietest bike I've ever owned. I can't say if Shimano might have more slaps. I don't think a sidekick will benefit the Slash much due to the mid pivot.
If you are getting a loud CRACK sound, could it be bottom out? I definitely found the linear setting with an aftermarket Vivid (no spacers) and 30% sag bottomed out too easily. Adding 2 volume spacers was the fix.
Another chain noise suggestion - check my recent video
youtube.com
Bike shop thinks it might be bearings and its in for warranty, but I assumed this was chain noise for a couple of months.
Just whip the chain off and see.
Bike was fairly quiet all winter even in gritty slop.
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Bike shop thinks it might be bearings and its in for warranty, but I assumed this was chain noise for a couple of months.
Just whip the chain off and see.
Bike was fairly quiet all winter even in gritty slop.
ebikerider
Well-known member
I'm using cable actuated transmission. I've checked the chain length and that's good. I've gotten the noise to manageable levels with an entire roll of mastic tape but in certain terrain the cracking is still there. Definitely not a bottom out issue. Even on trails when I'm not using all the travel I can get the cracking noise. I think its backlash in the motor causing the cracking noise when the chain pulls back sharply. Not too concerned about it but would much prefer it didn't happen. I'll check back in if I find out the cause and the solution.
Damm I really, really miss my bike, over 3 weeks with the supplier for a motor warranty request now.
Been riding my Gen3 Levo since, what an absolute brick of a bike in comparison. Makes me realise I made the right decision with the Slash+. Biggest annoyance for me is its weight around the headset area.
Been riding my Gen3 Levo since, what an absolute brick of a bike in comparison. Makes me realise I made the right decision with the Slash+. Biggest annoyance for me is its weight around the headset area.
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
Yeah weird, that should be silent! Diagnostic check- is the chain still tight in smallest cog? wondering if the transmission b-tension needs to be reset.
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