Velduro Rogue 170/165 mullet Enduro with DJI

DMR Dave said:
More importantly… the top battery mount bolt is missing - is it some where in all the parts?

Build has started

View attachment 182088

View attachment 182089
Click to expand...
Hi, on the Amflow Pl the 600wh battery is attached via the top bolt A2 (missing on yours) and the one lower down near the bash guard A1. On the 800wh battery the top battery fastening is done right at the top under the display B. See picture. I presume this explains your situation but this is best guess. Should say in your manual. 👍

IMG_2840.webp
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Shame it didn't come with the frame, but for £15 im not complaining.
Just waiting on the shock and fast charger now.

IMG_20260418_133518619~2.webp
 
I’m built!!
Just some bolt checks and gunk in the tyres and 1st ride tomorrow 🎉
Some hose/cable trimming and may upsize my dropper as 210 is to low at full height to be done as well but that can wait

Does the non-drive side crank arm pull on more than this? It feels tight but has lots of space behind.

IMG_9904.webp
 
DMR Dave said:
I’m built!!
Just some bolt checks and gunk in the tyres and 1st ride tomorrow 🎉
Some hose/cable trimming and may upsize my dropper as 210 is to low at full height to be done as well but that can wait

Does the non-drive side crank arm pull on more than this? It feels tight but has lots of space behind.

View attachment 182289
Click to expand...
Definitely. Looks dry. Did you grease it as per manual?
Ive snapped a crank bolt by swinging on it before so use a torque wrench to 50nm.
 
DMR Dave said:
I’m built!!
Just some bolt checks and gunk in the tyres and 1st ride tomorrow 🎉
Some hose/cable trimming and may upsize my dropper as 210 is to low at full height to be done as well but that can wait

Does the non-drive side crank arm pull on more than this? It feels tight but has lots of space behind.

View attachment 182289
Click to expand...
Dave this is definitely not on enough mate. I built mine up like this, creaked like heck. It will go on far enough so you can just see the grooves. At least 2 to 3mm more looking at this. The Avinox cranks are built from average aluminum too and mine kept backing off even at 50nm. I put a very small amount of thread lock in the spindle and problem solved too. Enjoy your first ride!!
 
1st ride with the Praxis 36t chainring. Seemed a lot quieter - at times the idler gear noise seemed non existent, at other times it was there but only just. Did 2 PBs on Strava but couldnt say these were due to the chainring - more likely that the trails were damp and therefore grippier.
 
1st ride, 15km 650m climbing mostly auto in the climbs and then I used eco on the decents, 50% battery on the mendips (UK) rode trails I knew well ish all natural roots with some made berm and jump features.
The bike wanted to run it was a little damp so a little slippery so couldn’t fully let it go.
It’s not as big as I was expecting and is more lively than my Specialized Enduro. Maybe I should go for a softer coil for a smoother ride but it was well supported using the advised from J Tech Suspension, the fork needs some bedding in as well I think as same spring as my vorsprung conversion in my lyric but it seemed harsher

IMG_9908.webp


IMG_9907.webp
 
DMR Dave said:
1st ride, 15km 650m climbing mostly auto in the climbs and then I used eco on the decents, 50% battery on the mendips (UK) rode trails I knew well ish all natural roots with some made berm and jump features.
The bike wanted to run it was a little damp so a little slippery so couldn’t fully let it go.
It’s not as big as I was expecting and is more lively than my Specialized Enduro. Maybe I should go for a softer coil for a smoother ride but it was well supported using the advised from J Tech Suspension, the fork needs some bedding in as well I think as same spring as my vorsprung conversion in my lyric but it seemed harsher

View attachment 182449

View attachment 182450
Click to expand...
is your front tire on backwards?
 
Mikects said:
No - none that I can see. Local Velduro dealer says he fits them to most bikes he assembles.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it makes sense. With that much power available you can live with a bit longer gear ratio on uphills. And I have one specific jump that I like a lot, but where you need to pedal for 3 or 4 revolutions after coming out of a corner to get to the right speed. And with 34/11 and a 27,5 rear wheel it's just hard to hit the right speed. 36/11 should help (a bit at least).
One more question: are you using the bashguard? Maybe that's the reason Velduro states the maximum as 34 teeth, because everything else sticks out below?
 
HiGer said:
Yeah, it makes sense. With that much power available you can live with a bit longer gear ratio on uphills. And I have one specific jump that I like a lot, but where you need to pedal for 3 or 4 revolutions after coming out of a corner to get to the right speed. And with 34/11 and a 27,5 rear wheel it's just hard to hit the right speed. 36/11 should help (a bit at least).
One more question: are you using the bashguard? Maybe that's the reason Velduro states the maximum as 34 teeth, because everything else sticks out below?
Click to expand...
No bashguard. Dont ride too many rocks and the steel chainring will deal with anything else ;)
 
I have a dropper post conundrum. I have a One Up v3 210 post which to get a comfortable top position I have raised it 60mm, with a 240mm post I could lower it to 25mm (based on max insertion of 300mm and length of post being 325) so lowest would be lower - good.
I suppose my question is, is full top height as important as on an analogue bike, where I regularly have max possible height for climbing, where as on my 1 ride so far I don't recall wanting for max height at all. plus I have a switchgrade which I mostly just used to nose up for descents and not so much nose down for the climbs like I would analogue.

I have already bought the post (although not unboxed as I am trialing with the post from my other bike) I would have to pay return postage and delivery of a new one - I found a good 20% discount mind.
 
DMR Dave said:
I have a dropper post conundrum. I have a One Up v3 210 post which to get a comfortable top position I have raised it 60mm, with a 240mm post I could lower it to 25mm (based on max insertion of 300mm and length of post being 325) so lowest would be lower - good.
I suppose my question is, is full top height as important as on an analogue bike, where I regularly have max possible height for climbing, where as on my 1 ride so far I don't recall wanting for max height at all. plus I have a switchgrade which I mostly just used to nose up for descents and not so much nose down for the climbs like I would analogue.

I have already bought the post (although not unboxed as I am trialing with the post from my other bike) I would have to pay return postage and delivery of a new one - I found a good 20% discount mind.
Click to expand...
ive been thinking about this since your last post. I currently run my 210mm at 30mm from top of seat-tube to bottom of dropper collar which gives me a decent drop position.
With a 240 slammed it could be 7mm lower with 23mm additional height, that could then be shimmed down by 20mm if required. I wouldnt do this though if I had a switchgrade.

What's your spring lb & weigh if you dont mind me asking?
 
Last edited:
Mhm, it's probably not so important in terms of pedaling efficiency on an e-bike as you have enough power available. But for me it's also a question of ergonomics. If you are further down you have to bend your knee more at every pedalstroke, which I would want to avoid.
If I were in your shoes I would probably make the effort and not make a compromise, especially not on a new build. Otherwise it would sit in the back of my head all the time... 😏
But for sure, it sucks to go through so much trouble if you have a part already in hand.
 
cozzy said:
ive been thinking about this since your last post. I currently run my 210mm at 30mm from top of seat-tube to bottom of dropper collar which gives me a decent drop position.
With a 240 slammed it could be 7mm lower with 23mm additional height, that could then be shimmed down by 20mm if required. I wouldnt do this though if I had a switchgrade.

What's your spring lb & weigh if you dont mind me asking?
Click to expand...
I'm 92kg kitted (guestimate), I think I've put on so muscle since last weigh so possibly a little more. the spring suggested to me was... looking for the email...525lbs
 
I suppose the silly short cranks play a part in this too enabling a higher high
 
I run a 210 dropper on my XL. Very rarely run it fully up or down. Not sure a 240 would "better" but I guess I would then have the choice.
 
DMR Dave said:
I have a dropper post conundrum. I have a One Up v3 210 post which to get a comfortable top position I have raised it 60mm, with a 240mm post I could lower it to 25mm (based on max insertion of 300mm and length of post being 325) so lowest would be lower - good.
I suppose my question is, is full top height as important as on an analogue bike, where I regularly have max possible height for climbing, where as on my 1 ride so far I don't recall wanting for max height at all. plus I have a switchgrade which I mostly just used to nose up for descents and not so much nose down for the climbs like I would analogue.

I have already bought the post (although not unboxed as I am trialing with the post from my other bike) I would have to pay return postage and delivery of a new one - I found a good 20% discount mind.
Click to expand...

That's really personal preference... sure with an eMTB the efficiencies are less important, but you should still be comfortable. I find I'm more sensitive to saddle height being too high, than a touch low. For example, if the saddle is 5 mm too high I won't notice it immediately. However after a few rides, a week, I'll notice sutble pain developing in my knees.

I always target a set saddle height (BB to top of saddle) and work backwards to maximize saddle drop... whether through a shorter saddle (in stack) and/or a longer dropper (shim'd if necessary).
 
Could someone make a detailed photo of the routing of the axs powercable?
I am tinkering with a housing design for 3D-printing and want to see in what orientation I should make the exit of the cable.
 
@Velduro Global HQ @Velduro UK , or anyone else privy:

Keep asking this question and getting crickets: Will Velduro fit/adapt the existing Rogue frame to work with the 700Wh battery? Or will a new frame version be required for this? Are you even working on a 700Wh compatible model or will you be holding out for the next round of batteries from Avinox? I ask because Crestline was able to pull this off.
 
back shocks and springs - my initial thoughts have changed, I think the shock needs a bit of bedding in time, 2nd ride last night and boy was it good. on reflection I think my Enduro is under sprung yes very good on small bumps but sapping energy, so they change is significant and better (I'm going to look at getting a harder spring for my Enduro!)./

In fact I may be under sprung, I'll fun as is for a while and fully get to know the bike and let every thing settles out, I used most of my fork travel (5mm short of full on the o ring) so I have the right spring there - same as on my Enduro so I was confident there, but no way of knowing how much travel I'm using on the back.

I don't go to bike parks much but I feel a stiffer spring would be beneficial for that scenario.

I'm not decided on dropper post length yet, the only time I wanted a higher high was cycling along the road on my own racing to the trails (to meet my mates who hadn't got there yet!) pretty much at the cut off of the motor whilst chasing some roadies. I am surprised how not large the large is, on paper it seems massive but on it a little small maybe (NB I prefer a smaller bike)

Rogue 9.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    668K
    Messages
    40,735
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top