Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

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Check your pivot axles folks! Mine had zero grease zero loctite.
Man this all seems a little rushed. People getting wrong orders, wrong shocks, this. I kind of figured he would have had the bikes in advanced and time to prep them but doesn’t seem to be the case. He should have just gave himself a week of prep before shipping anything. Would have given more time to confirm stuff in the orders too.
 
Delivered yesterday
Alpine Chalk #13X
600 watt
RH2
Ordered with a rockshox vivid air but came with the rockshox coil spring instead 🤷🏽‍♂️ not sure if that's all that was available or my order got mixed up 😬 think I’ll march on with the coil though
The ebike gods have spoken, let there be a coil on your Plaid!

I ordered the air as well, but hoping for a coil shock now in my box too.. 🤞
 
It will at least a little bit I’m sure, but hopefully not too much. I haven’t put the cable in yet. I installed my rear brake and cable yesterday from my previous bike and once I installed it, I realized the old cable is too short on this bike, so I had to order some new rear brake cable. I’m still waiting on my wheels which are currently being rebuilt at Berd, so it will be a couple weeks before until I get them back to finish it. So I’m not in a hurry at this point.

Update 180 one up slammed with cable installed is 26 5/8 from center of crank spindle to back edge of seat clamp, fully extended. So you lose about 5/8 with cable installed. It’s also a bit of a pita to install and adjust, but I’m sure it will be amazing when it’s finished!
What was your previous bike? I’ll be transferring Maven brakes from 181.1 to 181.2 frame, wondering if I’ll also need to buy longer rear brake hose.
 
The ebike gods have spoken, let there be a coil on your Plaid!

I ordered the air as well, but hoping for a coil shock now in my box too.. 🤞
Rejoice Brother! 🙌 haha
Mine may have had the opportunity to get mixed up as I ordered through a dealer, he received a bulk shipment of bikes he was allocated, then reshipped from his received location to my house
 
Anyone interested in trading an RH3 Forged frameset for a RH3 Raw frame and some additional cash from me?

I have an RS181.2 RH3 MX Speed Shop Team Edition 700wh battery with a June delivery date and would really like the Forged frame.

I am will to cover all shipping cost plus provide you with additional cash considerations if you have a frame on order.
 
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Anything thats wrong just contact troydon and he’ll sort you out. Just give him some time, I’m sure he’s crazy busy and busting his ass to get these frames out, hence some mixups. Yea he could’ve taken more time and gone through with a fine tooth comb but he’s trying to get everyone their bike asap as everyone is stoked to get them! It was the same way with the .1 frames and I really appreciate that he did!
 
Anything thats wrong just contact troydon and he’ll sort you out. Just give him some time, I’m sure he’s crazy busy and busting his ass to get these frames out, hence some mixups. Yea he could’ve taken more time and gone through with a fine tooth comb but he’s trying to get everyone their bike asap as everyone is stoked to get them! It was the same way with the .1 frames and I really appreciate that he did!
For sure. He’s doing insane work right now prepping all these bikes and getting them ready for shipping. I think next iteration people should just chill though. Give the guy a couple weeks to get everything ready without having to kill himself. Super sick and nice of him to get them all out this quick though. He probably has 800 emails right now from 2 seconds after release asking where their order is 😂. Man sometimes we act like children still.
 
slowly building it up…

I do notice the inside of frame and inner guide tubes seems a bit rough / not high quality finish. I think I can easily break the end of the inner tube if not paying attention… this is the first carbon frame I look inside… anyone can share is that same with major brands?
 
slowly building it up…

I do notice the inside of frame and inner guide tubes seems a bit rough / not high quality finish. I think I can easily break the end of the inner tube if not paying attention… this is the first carbon frame I look inside… anyone can share is that same with major brands?
My Levo is jagged af through the head tube. Its smooth where the HS cups go and where the battery slides in and out. It’s not perfect, but fairly decent.

What size frame did you order? From the assembly video, I was under the impression there aren’t any internal guide tubes for the hoses…. more of an open/internal routing setup.
 
My Levo is jagged af through the head tube. Its smooth where the HS cups go and where the battery slides in and out. It’s not perfect, but fairly decent.

What size frame did you order? From the assembly video, I was under the impression there aren’t any internal guide tubes for the hoses…. more of an open/internal routing setup.
I have rh-2. I do see some tubes but maybe not all the way through downtube. I didn’t remove the battery to see through. The video says rh2 can use internal tubes but not rh3/4? Not 100% sure.
 
I have rh-2. I do see some tubes but maybe not all the way through downtube. I didn’t remove the battery to see through. The video says rh2 can use internal tubes but not rh3/4? Not 100% sure.
I was discussing this earlier in this thread on the first page. The 600/800 batteries have guide tubes molded into the battery. The 700 does not. In the video he is building a rh3 or 4 with a 700. So the hoses would route in the corners, while in an RH2 it would route in the battery guide tubes (bc it can’t fit a 700). I *think* this is what he means in the video.
 
Man this all seems a little rushed. People getting wrong orders, wrong shocks, this. I kind of figured he would have had the bikes in advanced and time to prep them but doesn’t seem to be the case. He should have just gave himself a week of prep before shipping anything. Would have given more time to confirm stuff in the orders too.
People are fiending on these forums about tracking number updates and bugging him every day about rushing bikes out the door asap and now you guys are complaining that things are rushed 😂 guys gotta calm down, every one is gonna get their bikes just let T do his thing. Good things come to those who wait, like us forged guys who have 2.5 more months haha
 
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People are fiending on these forums about tracking number updates and bugging him every day about rushing bikes out the door asap and now you guys are complaining that things are rushed 😂 guys gotta calm down, every one is gonna get their bikes just let T do his thing. Good things come to those who wait, like us forged guys who have 2.5 more months haha
No doubt he called with a question about my order, on a Sunday afternoon, and I tried to make a little small talk about mutual friend. He was in no way rude, but was in no way going to submit to small talk. haha Totally fair of course.
 
This must be one of the first builds:


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I wonder if frame numbers are related to order sequences. Did the oldest orders get the lowest frame number? Are they random? Weird to me I don't see people mentioning their unique frame number.
 
I wonder if frame numbers are related to order sequences. Did the oldest orders get the lowest frame number? Are they random? Weird to me I don't see people mentioning their unique frame number.
There are different sizes colors shocks and batteries… they can’t do it by order number.
 
There are different sizes colors shocks and batteries… they can’t do it by order number.
I wouldn’t say it couldn’t be done. In the automotive world they do it and there’s way more volume and complexity.
I’m intrigued how each frame is individually numbered. If the frames aren’t allocated by order date; are all one configuration sharing the lowest numbers; then the next configuration gets the next set of numbers?
This is totally unique aspect of these bikes. So interesting nobody seems to care about it.
 
How's the build going? Please post more pics as you complete that bad boy!
I will. I had some difficulty with cable routing so it may be a bit. I’m running a cable dropper and shifter cable plus the rear brake cable and display cable. However there are only 2 cable tubes in the downtube. I watched the install video and routed my brake and shifter cable through the swingarm, then all 4 of my cables through the downtube then tried to fit my battery. But there is no way in hell it would even come close to fitting with my 800 battery, (round 700w battery seen in the install video would be easy, but that won’t fit in my bike, RH2). So after routing brand new 5mm Jagwire cable through the swing arm, (not an easy task) and through the down tube along with the other 3 cables and several hours of sweating and cursing trying to make it all work, I gave up for the night. This morning after reassessing the situation, I discovered that there are 2 cable tubes that go from the base of the seat tube up to the top tube. They’re kind of hidden and not easy to spot but they exit on either side of the display port on the top tube! Unfortunately there is no mention of this in the install video and I was unaware that they even existed. Also the top tubes are really tight and my 5mm Jagwire shifter cable wouldn’t fit through. So I just had to remove my 5mm jagwire cable since it’s not going to fit through the top tube and I have to go my LBS to get some 4mm shifter cable and start over again. As if that weren’t enough, my existing rear brake cable from my previous ebike, (I’m using my Hope brakes from my Pole Voima) is too short on this bike, so I had to order some new Hope hydraulic brake hose which won’t be delivered until the beginning of next week. 🤦‍♂️ So If you have 4 cables, the brake cable and shifter cables have to go through the top tube and the display and dropper cables need to go through the downtube. Lesson learned, I just wish it was in the installation video so I didn’t have a full day of frustration and failure not knowing the top tube tunnels even existed or were actually a requirement. But I realize most people are probably using wireless so it won’t be an issue for them.
 
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I will. I’m had some difficulty with cable routing so it may be a bit. I’m running a cable dropper and shifter cable plus the rear brake cable and display cable. However there are only 2 cable tubes in the downtube. I watched the install video and routed my brake and shifter cable through the swingarm, then all 4 of my cables through the downtube then tried to fit my battery. But there is no way in hell it would even come close to fitting with my 800 battery, (round 700w battery seen in the install video would be easy, but that won’t fit in my bike, RH2). So after routing brand new 5mm Jagwire cable through the swing arm, (not an easy task) and through the down tube along with the other 3 cables and several hours of sweating and cursing trying to make it all work, I gave up for the night. This morning after reassessing the situation, I discovered that there are 2 cable tubes that go from the base of the seat tube up to the top tube. They’re kind of hidden and not easy to spot but they exit on either side of the display port on the top tube! Unfortunately there is no mention of this in the install video and I was unaware that they even existed. Also the top tubes are really tight and my 5mm Jagwire shifter cable wouldn’t fit through. So I just had to remove my 5mm jagwire cable since it’s not going to fit through the top tube and I have to go my LBS to get some 4mm shifter cable and start over again. As if that weren’t enough, my existing rear brake cable from my previous ebike, (I’m using my Hope brakes from my Pole Voima) is too short on this bike, so I had to order some new Hope hydraulic brake hose which won’t be delivered until the end of the week. 🤦‍♂️ If you have 4 cables, the brake cable and shifter cables have to go through the top tube and the display and dropper cables need to go through the downtube. Lesson learned, I just wish it was in the installation video so I didn’t have a full day of frustration and failure not knowing the top tube tunnels even existed or were actually a requirement. But I realize most people are probably using wireless so it won’t be an issue for them.
That’s brutal. Sorry to hear. Did you have any issue removing the motor cover? Doing this now and the rear non-drive breaks free no problem but the drive side rear won’t budge. I’m afraid if I force it, something will break. I of course removed the bolts.

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That’s brutal. Sorry to hear. Did you have any issue removing the motor cover? Doing this now and the rear non-drive breaks free no problem but the drive side rear won’t budge. I’m afraid if I force it, something will break. I of course removed the bolts.

View attachment 182001
Yes I had the same exact issue! But I eventually got it off with some more force. But I was also afraid I was going to break it. Luckily I didn’t. 👍🏼
 
I will. I’m had some difficulty with cable routing so it may be a bit. I’m running a cable dropper and shifter cable plus the rear brake cable and display cable. However there are only 2 cable tubes in the downtube. I watched the install video and routed my brake and shifter cable through the swingarm, then all 4 of my cables through the downtube then tried to fit my battery. But there is no way in hell it would even come close to fitting with my 800 battery, (round 700w battery seen in the install video would be easy, but that won’t fit in my bike, RH2). So after routing brand new 5mm Jagwire cable through the swing arm, (not an easy task) and through the down tube along with the other 3 cables and several hours of sweating and cursing trying to make it all work, I gave up for the night. This morning after reassessing the situation, I discovered that there are 2 cable tubes that go from the base of the seat tube up to the top tube. They’re kind of hidden and not easy to spot but they exit on either side of the display port on the top tube! Unfortunately there is no mention of this in the install video and I was unaware that they even existed. Also the top tubes are really tight and my 5mm Jagwire shifter cable wouldn’t fit through. So I just had to remove my 5mm jagwire cable since it’s not going to fit through the top tube and I have to go my LBS to get some 4mm shifter cable and start over again. As if that weren’t enough, my existing rear brake cable from my previous ebike, (I’m using my Hope brakes from my Pole Voima) is too short on this bike, so I had to order some new Hope hydraulic brake hose which won’t be delivered until the end of the week. 🤦‍♂️ If you have 4 cables, the brake cable and shifter cables have to go through the top tube and the display and dropper cables need to go through the downtube. Lesson learned, I just wish it was in the installation video so I didn’t have a full day of frustration and failure not knowing the top tube tunnels even existed or were actually a requirement. But I realize most people are probably using wireless so it won’t be an issue for them.
You should make a YouTube video 😉
 
I’m order 6376, rh2, raw carbon, 600wh, fox coil, 440 dropouts. I added a fox 38. Tracking says label created. I really wanted the 800 battery and asked if it was possible to change but haven’t heard back. I ordered a -5 works headset.
Im order number 6386 in UK heard nothing yet 🤔
 
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