2026 Yeti LTE

First ride today, and I'm really happy with how it rides. It's incredibly damp/muted over chunk- so much so that it reminds me of riding a trail moto downhill. Awesome for tech, steeps and features; would seriously dumb down lower angle, flowy trails however.

My concerns about weight have vanished- I think that if the bike is sized appropriately for your body and you can generate good leverage from the reach and stack, you can move the bike around just fine even with the extra 20lbs over a pedal bike.

The small rear wheel feels fine, and may well be contributing to the great maneuverability I'm feeling. I'll do some back to back testing with a 29" wheel to see how I like each.

One big takeway is that the Magic Mary rear tire has insane amounts of braking grip, which is really confidence inspiring on steep, wet ruts. Really surprised by how controlled the rear end was in those situations. I have the 29" Albert on two other bikes, and the 27.5" MM blows the Albert away for braking in the wet and loose.


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First ride today, and I'm really happy with how it rides. It's incredibly damp/muted over chunk- so much so that it reminds me of riding a trail moto downhill. Awesome for tech, steeps and features; would seriously dumb down lower angle, flowy trails however.

My concerns about weight have vanished- I think that if the bike is sized appropriately for your body and you can generate good leverage from the reach and stack, you can move the bike around just fine even with the extra 20lbs over a pedal bike.

The small rear wheel feels fine, and may well be contributing to the great maneuverability I'm feeling. I'll do some back to back testing with a 29" wheel to see how I like each.

One big takeway is that the Magic Mary rear tire has insane amounts of braking grip, which is really confidence inspiring on steep, wet ruts. Really surprised by how controlled the rear end was in those situations. I have the 29" Albert on two other bikes, and the 27.5" MM blows the Albert away for braking in the wet and loose.


View attachment 177448

Curious about the riding locale of this pic, which has a lot do with each of us both being in the Bay Area and that trail behind the bike does look inviting, if not off limits based on the signage.
 
First ride today, and I'm really happy with how it rides. It's incredibly damp/muted over chunk- so much so that it reminds me of riding a trail moto downhill. Awesome for tech, steeps and features; would seriously dumb down lower angle, flowy trails however.

My concerns about weight have vanished- I think that if the bike is sized appropriately for your body and you can generate good leverage from the reach and stack, you can move the bike around just fine even with the extra 20lbs over a pedal bike.

The small rear wheel feels fine, and may well be contributing to the great maneuverability I'm feeling. I'll do some back to back testing with a 29" wheel to see how I like each.

One big takeway is that the Magic Mary rear tire has insane amounts of braking grip, which is really confidence inspiring on steep, wet ruts. Really surprised by how controlled the rear end was in those situations. I have the 29" Albert on two other bikes, and the 27.5" MM blows the Albert away for braking in the wet and loose.


View attachment 177448

I have a question that maybe you can answer?

On an MX bike, and it's been about 8 years now, I had zero problem 4th gear pinned over a 100'er. The bikes felt secure and un-flinchable. But on an MTB, I've just never had even remotely that confidence. Not sure how much is age, past injuries (I was wheelchaired with a broken spine on an MX bike but did go back to riding afterwards for a bit longer), or the way bikes just feel so much less secure to me.

Does the DC fork make a significant difference in this aspect for you? Like does it inspire a level of confidence that a single crown just doesn't have?

Thanks.
 
I have a question that maybe you can answer?

On an MX bike, and it's been about 8 years now, I had zero problem 4th gear pinned over a 100'er. The bikes felt secure and un-flinchable. But on an MTB, I've just never had even remotely that confidence. Not sure how much is age, past injuries (I was wheelchaired with a broken spine on an MX bike but did go back to riding afterwards for a bit longer), or the way bikes just feel so much less secure to me.

Does the DC fork make a significant difference in this aspect for you? Like does it inspire a level of confidence that a single crown just doesn't have?

Thanks.
As a dirt bike rider and an e-bike, I feel much more confidence on the moto. The heavier weight provides stability especially in the air. Nothing to do with the fork, at least not IMHO.
 
I have a question that maybe you can answer?

On an MX bike, and it's been about 8 years now, I had zero problem 4th gear pinned over a 100'er. The bikes felt secure and un-flinchable. But on an MTB, I've just never had even remotely that confidence. Not sure how much is age, past injuries (I was wheelchaired with a broken spine on an MX bike but did go back to riding afterwards for a bit longer), or the way bikes just feel so much less secure to me.

Does the DC fork make a significant difference in this aspect for you? Like does it inspire a level of confidence that a single crown just doesn't have?

Thanks.
Yeah, like Peter said above, the weight of a moto makes it way more stable than a mtb. So it makes sense you feel more secure on a moto. OTOH, stability is the opposite of maneuverability, so you get way more maneuvarability on a mtb.

Regarding a DC fork, yeah it makes the bike feel more stable in chunk, and combined with the psychological effect of having that big fork out there (which is a significant effect), it's pretty confidence inspiring. There are a lot of times I'll just smash through some feature at pace with a DC that I wouldn't with a single crown.

Now, you seem to be implying or hoping that a DC on a mtb will make you feel like you do on a moto. My take is- not physically possible. A moto weights like 4x what a eMtb does, and that's the main factor in feel and stability, plus more travel and way plush suspension. I guess the good news is that it's not you, it's physics. :-)
 
I have a question that maybe you can answer?

On an MX bike, and it's been about 8 years now, I had zero problem 4th gear pinned over a 100'er. The bikes felt secure and un-flinchable. But on an MTB, I've just never had even remotely that confidence. Not sure how much is age, past injuries (I was wheelchaired with a broken spine on an MX bike but did go back to riding afterwards for a bit longer), or the way bikes just feel so much less secure to me.

Does the DC fork make a significant difference in this aspect for you? Like does it inspire a level of confidence that a single crown just doesn't have?

Thanks.
Switched to a dual crown this year and immediately noticed:

-better support when braking (less flex?)

-better bump eating (not binding up?)

-way, way more accurate steering

-less getting pinged around sideways by undamped fork flex

I picked up a 40 for my other bike within a few weeks. It was that big a difference. I'm big/heavy so that probably plays into it - someone regular-sized might not feel the same problems I did with a single crown.
 
Finished the build last night- I call it the DHe. Fox 40 @190mm, DHX2, Ochain, WAO Union mullet wheelset, Oneup 210mm dropper. The only original components are the derailleur, shifter, cranks and bar. Head angle is 63.7 degrees.

View attachment 177370
Did you get a weight?

My Norco with 49/coil/DH casing/cushcore landed just under 55lbs (with mallets)
 
Switched to a dual crown this year and immediately noticed:

-better support when braking (less flex?)

-better bump eating (not binding up?)

-way, way more accurate steering

-less getting pinged around sideways by undamped fork flex

I picked up a 40 for my other bike within a few weeks. It was that big a difference. I'm big/heavy so that probably plays into it - someone regular-sized might not feel the same problems I did with a single crown.

I would definitely grab a used DC off PB to test for myself however pretty certain that this is impossible on my Wild due to headset cable routing.

It was a nice thought though!
 
I would definitely grab a used DC off PB to test for myself however pretty certain that this is impossible on my Wild due to headset cable routing.

It was a nice thought though!
think again:

 
think again:


Not sure how they did that?

No dropper, electronic shifting & external mounted rear brake hose possibly?
 
Not sure how they did that?

No dropper, electronic shifting & external mounted rear brake hose possibly?
nope
https%3A%2F%2Ffstatic1.mtb-news.de%2Fv3%2F28%2F2801%2F2801029-v9nzsc9b4m1c-fort_william_boxengasse_2_martin_maes_95880-original.jpg

 
IMG_1066.webp


Finally got my ride setup finished and am excited to share - mainly for the custom tune tips at the bottom because I had difficulty finding suggestions across multiple forums.

I got the C2 Model because I dont like carbon wheels and electronic shifting. Also am a coil fanboy so I planned to replace front / rear suspension.

Upgrades
  • Oneup Carbon V2 bar
  • Smashpot V2 (60lb) HBO 4
  • MRP Lift V2 (blue) C-3 & R-7
  • DVO Jade X Prime WP with custom tune w/ 550lb spring
  • Ergon SMC E-Mountain seat
  • Outdoor Lighting EVO & Portal
  • Ridewrap
  • Marque Ergo grips (better than Ergon stuff & cheaper)
  • Oneup Wave pedals
Weight 56lbs minus the lights

NOTE: I did not ride the OEM suspension beforehand so I dont have any before / after insights.

For those that looking for custom tuning tips. Here is what I gave tuner and it is perfect for me & my riding style:

Rider Weight fully Kitted: 220lbs (100kg) age 48yrs

Ride lots of techy trails with rocks & roots - SE TN / N GA & NC. Dont do big jumps or drops, but do enjoy some pop off small trail features.

I want confident traction with feedback from terrain is present but not jarring

Initial stroke: supple off the top, small chatter disappears without harshness.

Midstroke is supportive: Doesn’t wallow or dive when pushing into corners or compressions.

End stroke has controlled ramp. It firms up predictably without sudden spike.

Rebound is predictable: Slower for stability on descents, returns energy smoothly without a “kick.”

DVO Jade X Prime with WP Cone valve custom tune shim stack:

Mid valve Rebound
1 x 11-0.10
2 x 16-0.10
1x 15-0.15
11 x 1.00

Mid Vavle compression
2x22-0.10
1 x 13-0.10
1 x 21-0.15
1x 20-0.15
1 x 18-0.15
1 x 16-0.15
1 x 14-0.15
1 x 12-0.15
11 x 1.00

Base valve compression
Cone valve

HSC - open
LSC - 2 in
LSR - 13 out
Bladder 160
Oil 2.5wt
 
A lot of talk recently online (FB) about significant amounts of dirt ingressing the motor compartment from the opening above the main pivot attach point. I talked to Yeti support about it and they said they're aware of the situation and that some employees are experimenting with Gorilla Tape and moto foam. No formal "fix" in the works from Yeti however. So I MacGyver'd this and it works really well.

IMG_0286 (1).webp
 
Hello,

What settings are you running in the podium if you have one?

Are you on 30 or 35 or 25% progression on the shock? With which settings

Cheers
 
I just placed my order for a Turquoise LTe T3. In anticipation of the bike getting here, I’m putting together a list of upgrades. Other than Cushcore and my preferred grips, what would you guys recommend for this bike? I see some people have got some foam and duct tape to fill the voids around the engine. What else should be on my radar? Does it needs STFU chain guide?
 
I just placed my order for a Turquoise LTe T3. In anticipation of the bike getting here, I’m putting together a list of upgrades. Other than Cushcore and my preferred grips, what would you guys recommend for this bike? I see some people have got some foam and duct tape to fill the voids around the engine. What else should be on my radar? Does it needs STFU chain guide?
I would hold off on any anti- chain damping / kickback device until after you've had about a month on the bike, as this would allow to ascertain any improvement when you add these devices. Chain growth nearly stops at the switchpoint - so no kickback at that point. Also, shock choice is open since you have a wide choice or L/Rs - coil should be thoughtful consideration. What about 29 vs. MX? - swapping wheels would be a priority for me, as I see either working quite well for this bike.
 
In the picture the way I protect the link from mud and debris. Simply a mud guard that I've cut a little to have the chain free to move. In this way also the frame is protected.
I've done the same system on my old 160E.

IMG_2674.webp
 
You only need the foam trick (aquarium foam for the filters or moto foam)

Change the tires to what you prefere and your good to go. As next step i will try the 35% progression settings.

I feel the yeti handlebar is quiete stiff, will test out a one up against it.
 
I use motoX foam to fill the gaps, stops all the mud and Debri getting down the gaps.
 
I use motoX foam to fill the gaps, stops all the mud and Debri getting down the gaps.
Just ordered the foam! Thanks to everybody for the tips. Apart from that 1 pic by @DaveGo do you have any other suggestions where and how to put the foam? I am not sure what will prevent it from falling out.

Would you also fill the gaps on the motor cover/vent holes with the foam? I assume that let's the cool air through but not the grime. (?)
 
Just ordered the foam! Thanks to everybody for the tips. Apart from that 1 pic by @DaveGo do you have any other suggestions where and how to put the foam? I am not sure what will prevent it from falling out.

Would you also fill the gaps on the motor cover/vent holes with the foam? I assume that let's the cool air through but not the grime. (?)

Just cut it slightly larger and push in down into the gaps. It could fall out but mine haven’t yet. As for the motor guard, I personally wouldn’t cover those, as they are most likely there for cooling. 👍
 
Anyone changed their rear brake hose? From the manual i understand that it’s an ongoing port but I cannot take the old hose out, it seems blocked. Any idea?

If nothing will work I will take the motor out…
 
Anyone changed their rear brake hose? From the manual i understand that it’s an ongoing port but I cannot take the old hose out, it seems blocked. Any idea?

If nothing will work I will take the motor out
I changed the brake hose and you do have to take out the front motor bolt. Keep the rear motor bolt in place so the motor just swivels down and out of the way so you can access the cable guides.
 
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