2026 Yeti LTE

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slickrock said:
All except Atherton it seems, which ditched the 6-bar on their ebike.
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Suns_PSD said:
Yah, after about the 5th time of almost dying on Radials, I removed them. The trail ones can do some weird stuff. Then you overinflate them and it's like a balloon and the traction advantage is lost.

I do really like the gravity Albert in the rear though still.
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I only had the vagueness issue with the trail caseing, I had to run the trail caseing at 28psi else it felt like I was on the rim, where as the gravity caseing I can run 22psi front.
 
After many rides, this bike is so nice and quiet uphill and downhill. I’ve noticed on my local trails I’m using up a lot of travel almost every DH. I YouTubed how to replace volume spacers, come to find out it’s just like the old float X2. For a medium sized frame stock is 1 blue volume spacers. Unfortunately the diameter for a 2026 Float X2 is slightly larger than the previous X2 shock. Ordered up some more volume spacers.

IMG_1947.jpeg IMG_1948.jpeg
 
Even in the progressive position you will still blow through the travel I have found. I've added an additional blue 1cc token and will probably add one more.
 
sethimus said:
so how can you then claim that 6bars are the best ever?
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So, I did ride the suspension design on the older Yeti 160E and did notice how phenomenal it was, but I don't ride every bike set up perfectly for me. What I have found having owned and ridden most all suspension designs is that I have greatly preferred Horst Links, and greatly disliked flex stays with VPPs only being a bit better. I have been I-Track curious and did briefly ride one about 2 weeks ago, but it was set all wrong for my weight and didn't feel good at all. The Sixfinity was set up wildly off for my weight (the guy weighs like 30#s more than me) and it still felt amazing.

What I base my high opinion of Sixinfinity on is a few things including: nearly every single review of the Sixfinity absolutely raves about this suspension design. Over and over they state how good it is. This isn't something you universally hear about any design, but... the I-tracks do get good reviews (not stellar, universally) as well so from a performance perspective are solid. But they have the clear disadvantage of having to utilize the idler wheel with its additional issues. So even if the I-track was equal in performance to Sixfinity, Sixfinity clearly wins from a maintenance/ cost/ weight/ chain length perspective.

So yah, if I could choose right now based on what I've experienced and read, I'd choose the Sixfinity suspension. Unfortunately, Yeti doesn't offer it along with the other features I desire in a new bike, so I went with what I consider a slightly inferior suspension design in the Wild to get the closest combination of features that I prefer.

Yeti if you are reading! The LTe frame kit with the CXR motor, 600w battery and a skinny downtube please. I'd pay a LOT of money for this.
 
Suns_PSD said:
So, I did ride the suspension design on the older Yeti 160E and did notice how phenomenal it was, but I don't ride every bike set up perfectly for me. What I have found having owned and ridden most all suspension designs is that I have greatly preferred Horst Links, and greatly disliked flex stays with VPPs only being a bit better. I have been I-Track curious and did briefly ride one about 2 weeks ago, but it was set all wrong for my weight and didn't feel good at all. The Sixfinity was set up wildly off for my weight (the guy weighs like 30#s more than me) and it still felt amazing.

What I base my high opinion of Sixinfinity on is a few things including: nearly every single review of the Sixfinity absolutely raves about this suspension design. Over and over they state how good it is. This isn't something you universally hear about any design, but... the I-tracks do get good reviews (not stellar, universally) as well so from a performance perspective are solid. But they have the clear disadvantage of having to utilize the idler wheel with its additional issues. So even if the I-track was equal in performance to Sixfinity, Sixfinity clearly wins from a maintenance/ cost/ weight/ chain length perspective.

So yah, if I could choose right now based on what I've experienced and read, I'd choose the Sixfinity suspension. Unfortunately, Yeti doesn't offer it along with the other features I desire in a new bike, so I went with what I consider a slightly inferior suspension design in the Wild to get the closest combination of features that I prefer.

Yeti if you are reading! The LTe frame kit with the CXR motor, 600w battery and a skinny downtube please. I'd pay a LOT of money for this.
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Agree. For me, the published kinematic graphs for AS, AR, and L/R seem to be about the very best incarnation of what an inherent Horst Link design has to offer.

But the downside of Sixfinity, that you may have unintentionally drew out, is that Yeti is in no hurry to license its design, so you are stuck with the bikes they offer or off-the-table frames they won’t directly sell. OTOH, endearing Yeti fans would see this as an upside.

Whereas I-Track is wholly in the business of doing the opposite in only licensing their design. In fact, years ago, iTrack Suspension was productizing their own bike to sell, with a position-adjustable idler to allow you to tune your own anti-squat curves. They clearly gave in on this model in favor of just licensing the tech. And the dude captured a pretty wide patent here because putting an idler on any articulating part of the rear suspension encroaches pretty much on the patent, which became all the more valuable since the growing popularity of HP idler bikes. The counter to the wide interpretation is that bikes having iTrack can behave quite differently because of the differing ways of implementation. In this way, these companies should do well to publish their kinematic graphs or if you can throw a leg over one, all the better.
 
Suns_PSD said:
Why don't you just swap the shock mount to the more progressive position? That's the better way to accomplish this anyways.
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I’ve tried 30% with more psi and 25% with slightly less psi With the same results of o-ring at the top. I haven’t tried 35% yet, but I assume I’d have the same results.

on another note, I cycled the suspension up and down in the easiest gears and noticed the cranks kick back. Did it again in the faster gears and noticed less kick back. At some point I’ll buy the DT-Swiss kick back insert for the hub and see if can feel a difference.
 
As far as im aware if you have any of the stock wheels the DF kit will not fit the freehub. I have mullet reserve wheels on mine with the deg feehub and have fitted the df kit and dont notice any difference but maybe im just not riding fast enough.
 
mtbbiker said:
..
on another note, I cycled the suspension up and down in the easiest gears and noticed the cranks kick back. Did it again in the faster gears and noticed less kick back. At some point I’ll buy the DT-Swiss kick back insert for the hub and see if can feel a difference.
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Yes, kickback reduces in the smaller cogs so this expect. I'd be curious if you can can sense if the kickback decreases or even stops at the "switch point". I would be highly dismayed if this bike needs anti-kickback tech, but then again if you totally want to totally kill kickback you will have to resort to some more drastic measures.
 
mtbbiker said:
on another note, I cycled the suspension up and down in the easiest gears and noticed the cranks kick back. Did it again in the faster gears and noticed less kick back. At some point I’ll buy the DT-Swiss kick back insert for the hub and see if can feel a difference.
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I'm going to put an Ochain on mine when it arrives next week. I have Ochains on a Spire and a Hightower and it really quiets/calms down high speed chatter.
 
Freezer said:
I'm going to put an Ochain on mine when it arrives next week. I have Ochains on a Spire and a Hightower and it really quiets/calms down high speed chatter.
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Do you notice much loss of pedaling performance or a delay?
 
Suns_PSD said:
Do you notice much loss of pedaling performance or a delay?
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So the Ochain produces a deadband before the pedal engages, which is how it prevents kickback. It doesn't bother me at all, but then I don't generally do much steep technical climbing where it would potentially be a negative. If you're ratcheting or track standing a lot, then it may annoy you. Conversely, if you're pedaling up singletrack or fire roads it's basically unnoticeable. Net/net its a big positive for me because it doesn't affect my climbing and it definitely makes descending better. I'm assuming that with about 100% antirise on the LTe, kickback will be there.
 
Freezer said:
So the Ochain produces a deadband before the pedal engages, which is how it prevents kickback. It doesn't bother me at all, but then I don't generally do much steep technical climbing where it would potentially be a negative. If you're ratcheting or track standing a lot, then it may annoy you. Conversely, if you're pedaling up singletrack or fire roads it's basically unnoticeable. Net/net its a big positive for me because it doesn't affect my climbing and it definitely makes descending better. I'm assuming that with about 100% antirise on the LTe, kickback will be there.
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Perhaps you meant anti-squat instead of anti-rise? While technically kickback is only a function of chain growth, with idler-less multi-bar bikes with standard derailleur transmissions you will always have chain growth with AS and so as you say, kickback will be there.

Also, will you use the Ochain version that allows for easy external adjustment? I ask if you can indulge me by running the bike for awhile with the float disabled and get comfortable with bike first before embarking on taming any kickback. The reason I'm interested is that if AS kinematics of the Yeti are to be believed:

1770266145925.png

Then, I'm finding it hard to understand how much kickback accumulation there is in the first place, especially after the switch point where AS goes full negative and basically the chain stops growing. It may be that kickback is felt less when just pedaling over small chunder less than while dropping into big bigger hits near approach -100% AS (i.e. zero kickback). I'm also curious after all is said and done, what Ochain setting you will settle into and how that compares to the Spire and Hightower.
 
slickrock said:
Perhaps you meant anti-squat instead of anti-rise? While technically kickback is only a function of chain growth, with idler-less multi-bar bikes with standard derailleur transmissions you will always have chain growth with AS and so as you say, kickback will be there.

Also, will you use the Ochain version that allows for easy external adjustment? I ask if you can indulge me by running the bike for awhile with the float disabled and get comfortable with bike first before embarking on taming any kickback. The reason I'm interested is that if AS kinematics of the Yeti are to be believed:

View attachment 175439
Then, I'm finding it hard to understand how much kickback accumulation there is in the first place, especially after the switch point where AS goes full negative and basically the chain stops growing. It may be that kickback is felt less when just pedaling over small chunder less than while dropping into big bigger hits near approach -100% AS (i.e. zero kickback). I'm also curious after all is said and done, what Ochain setting you will settle into and how that compares to the Spire and Hightower.
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That’s why I cycled the suspension in climbing gears versus DH gears. There was a noticeable difference. All honesty I’m not a super sensitive rider, I may not notice a difference with an anti-kick back device. Especially with KB reduced in DH gears.
 
slickrock said:
Perhaps you meant anti-squat instead of anti-rise? While technically kickback is only a function of chain growth, with idler-less multi-bar bikes with standard derailleur transmissions you will always have chain growth with AS and so as you say, kickback will be there.

Also, will you use the Ochain version that allows for easy external adjustment? I ask if you can indulge me by running the bike for awhile with the float disabled and get comfortable with bike first before embarking on taming any kickback. The reason I'm interested is that if AS kinematics of the Yeti are to be believed:

View attachment 175439
Then, I'm finding it hard to understand how much kickback accumulation there is in the first place, especially after the switch point where AS goes full negative and basically the chain stops growing. It may be that kickback is felt less when just pedaling over small chunder less than while dropping into big bigger hits near approach -100% AS (i.e. zero kickback). I'm also curious after all is said and done, what Ochain setting you will settle into and how that compares to the Spire and Hightower.
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Yes, you're right: I meant to say anti-squat.

I got the fixed deadband Ochain for the LTe, so unfortunately can't do any A/B testing on the LTe. But I have the adjustable Ochains on both of my other bikes and have done a lot of testing at zero up to 12 degrees of deadband. Based on that testing I ride both bikes all the time at either the 12 or 9 degree deadband position. Where you really notice the benefit on kickback is when you ride the bike with the deadband on, then turn it off. You immediately notice more noise and vibration from the suspension and chain with the deadband off. In addition, the benefit is especially noticeable on flats.

Regrding pedaling and low gears, the Ochain has no effect on kickback at all when you're pedaling because you're through the deadband and the chain is in tension. So it's sort of meaningless to talk about Ochain and low gears unless you descend while coasting in the lowest gears.
 
I have mine since around the release. I went through many bikes in the past years, mostly Specialized, both analog and several e-bikes too. Honestly, the LTe blows my mind and a solid 10/10 for me in full 29" setup. Probably the best chassis and motor combo for me so far. On the pics first I was a bit sceptical with the chunky downtube but in real life (in size XL) it is very well proportioned and super nice i believe.

My only "issue" is the lack of frame protection - not sure if it's "standard" or just missing on mine, but there were not protective PVC on the downtube, back of the seattube or on the chainstays and seatstays. In this category you usually have it on other brands. I am not too concerned and I am not a guy who wraps frames, but taking good care of it. The paint quality is pretty solid I reckon.
 
On the subject of protection, anybody having trouble with the rock strikes under the motor? My DU Guard is already cracked. I'd like to put a skid on, but haven't managed to find one. Any suggestions?
 
Gazzer83 said:
On the subject of protection, anybody having trouble with the rock strikes under the motor? My DU Guard is already cracked. I'd like to put a skid on, but haven't managed to find one. Any suggestions?
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E-Bikes parts - Wolfcarbon

E-Bikes parts
wolfcarbon.com wolfcarbon.com

WolfCarbon has some great products. Not yet available for the LTe but if they recieve some request from some users here, I'm sure they will make it.
If you find something similar already existing for the LTe, please let us know! Thanks.
 
They look pretty good, hopefully they - or someone else - will come up with something soon. No-one I've contacted so far has got anything, I might have to go down the home-made road, at least for the time being. But if I find something, I'll let you know! Cheers!
 
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